I just installed a Rifle Basix trigger on a Surgeon action and have a quick question.

With my previous Remington trigger, upon lifting the bolt to its uppermost position, the trigger would reset. With the Rifle Basix installed, upon lifting the bolt, the trigger only resets once I move the bolt to the rear about 1/8”.

I’m not sure if this can be adjusted but seems to operate differently from my other rifles with Rifle Basix triggers that reset immediately upon bolt life. I always liked the quick up and down for dry firing exercises which has this trigger leaving a bit to be desired.

Your advice is appreciated.

Yes, it can be adjusted, the piece on the firing pin that is held back by the trigger sear can be shortened enough to allow it to catch when the bolt is lifted. I am thinking this piece is called the striker, but I am not sure at all on that.

Dave

So is there a screw adjustment or is this something that has to be filed? Still not quite sure how I should go about this.

if you look at the bottom of the bolt, there is a 'tab' of sorts on the very bottom, it slides in a groove at the bottom of your action and contacts the trigger sear. I would have this done professionally as if too much is taken, it can result in light primer strikes and may cause some mis-fires.

Dave

I think the piece is called the cocking piece not the striker.

The trigger that I removed did not have this problem. Swapping the trigger is the only change I've made so if the contact point on the trigger needs to be shortened, perhaps I should just swap the top bar on the trigger with the old one? Will that work?

You swapped the trigger that also has a new sear. The tolerance between the sear and the cocking piece is what makes up the difference between one weapon and another.

Remington’s are knows for this issues of having to move the bolt back slightly to reset the sear. It can sometimes be adjusted out by adjusting the trigger but this usually leads to a crappy trigger pull. The other option is to stone the cocking piece to allow the sear to reset on bolt lift but I don't recommend that.

No I would not swap the sear from a factory trigger to the aftermarket trigger. They are made to work together. If you don't like the function of the bolt reset with the new trigger put the old one back in and resist the urge to start mixing up parts to make something work to your liking, you just might end up with another problem.

So in this pic, I take it the circled part is called the sear? By taking out my old Remington trigger which did reset upon bolt lift and replacing it with a Rifle Basix which now requires a minor rearward movement to reset, the new Rifle Basix sear is longer than my old Remington one? Do I have this correct?

And Randy, you are saying that the sears cannot be swapped interchangeably between the two triggers? Should I perhaps swap this trigger for another hoping that I get a version with a slightly shorter sear bar?

im kind of unsure as to why it bothers you that the 1/8th inch of movement is bothering you so much? The bolt has to be run backwards to chamber another round to fire again?????

Pretty much yes.

The top of the sear near the rear has a step in it and the very rear has a forward angle. The cocking piece also has a forward angle. This angle in the sear is the area that the cocking piece angle sits against when the weapon is cocked. When you pull the trigger you release the tension on the sear. Because there are two opposing angles, the sear now having no tension to hold the cocking piece and striker assemble to the rear will allow the striker assemble to move forward up and over the sear firing the weapon.

When you cock the weapon the sear spring wants to push up on the sear to reset but the two angles, one on the cocking piece and the one on the sear are blocking each other, to allow them to clear and the sear to reset you need to pull the bolt to the rear slightly.

Some trigger and rifle combos there is enough clearance (+ or – tolerances) for these two parts to clear some do not. (The cocking cam angle and length also plays a part in this) You can stone the angle on the cocking piece and the sear to allow clearance but I don't recommend that since these are only surface hardened if that and you can go too far.

Though 1/8" isn't that much, it is a little bit of a pain when dryfiring. It also would bother me just a little, because it just isn't 'right'. I agree with what Randy said, and if you do decide to change the surfaces, I would bring it to a 'smith so they can determine the exact amount that would need to be removed, and can determine if it would be too much and get into softer metal that would wear much more quickly.

As to changing the sear bar from one trigger to the other, you can already see how much different they are in length overall, I would also suspect that the sear surfaces are not identical or even in the identical place. The entire sear surface area may not even be 1/8" long, so it could be a very bad match, and be outside of tolerances to allow proper adjustement.

DD

hey dave just a curious question. When dry firing why not practice running the bolt? Albeit everynow and then i catch myself just camming the bolt up to cock the FP and fire away. But why not work the whole shebang when you dry fire?

That is a valid point, doesn't hurt to run the bolt. when I typically do it, I just cam the bolt, so having to pull it back a bit would bother me... but still not a major issue, I definately wouldn't ruin the gun over it.

DD

Well, figured I would circle back and inform everybody that I managed to solve the problem. Rather than stone the sear (which everybody warned against) or swap sears with another trigger (also a bad idea), I contacted Clay at Rifle Basix and told him my situation.

He quickly replied and said he would personally set one up on a similar action and dial it in with my preferred 2.5lbs trigger weight and test for bolt lift reset. He then sent the replacement L-1 trigger on his dime priority mail of which I received today.

Tonight I installed the replacement trigger and it is perfect. Absolutely no slop whatsoever on the trigger and the bolt now perfectly resets on bolt lift. I'm as pleased as can be.

Clay also included a return package with stamps to return the trigger that was giving me problems. All in all I'm more impressed than ever with Rifle Basix and can't thank them enough. A great trigger with A+ customer service puts them tops in my book. They will definitely be my go to trigger in the future on these types of builds.