This post concerns the bolt knob installation on the LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - start to "finish" project, and a few economical ways to get a tactical / oversized bolt knob on your rimfire.

What is a "tacticool" rifle without a tactical / oversized bolt knob?

....seemingly incomplete. Here a few ways to install one at home on your own, from the semi-involved to the "easy as sin to do" for those that aren't tool orientated. A tactical / oversized knob on a trainer adds advantages such as matching it's centerfire big brother, easier to cycle do to the extra weight and surface for gripping, easier to "find" the knob not only in a normal shooting position, but awkward ones also. The added weight and length also increases the ease of "throw" as leverage is increased.

A bolt knob can usually cost $50.00 and upwards at the gunsmith's shop. With a few tools and a little direction, it could cost less than $5.00. Yes, 5 bucks!

This very informative thread was sent to me by hotrod9mm (thanks), and is the "correct" way, idea #1: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=321755

I originally was going to do that, then came up with idea #2; that perhaps I can find a suitable "knob" in the cabinet hardware section of Lowe's (pictured to the left of the bolt $4.97), and I also bought some Fast Steel epoxy putty for idea #3 ($3.98). The first photo is of suplies needed for idea #2 and #3, followed by instruction diagram for #2. The extra machine screw is to replace the one that came with the cabinet knob, as it is beefier. The broken screw driver is for "practice" and testing idea #3 using it as a simulated bolt handle.



Cabinet knob $4.97 (Lowe')s
Tap and drill bit $2.56 (Home Depot)
Tap wrench $2.47 (Home Depot)
Beefier machine screw for "coupler" .20

= $10.20

You will need a grinder to shape the existing handle to match to the form of the cabinet knob, and some loc-tite or clear nail polish to keep it from loosening.

I thought the cabinet knob, once installed and painted, would look like a regular knob, or can be replaced by at least 10 different options (probably more) that was displayed at the cabinet section.

I went with idea #3 first for a few reasons: a) seems easier and quicker, b) was cheaper, c) can form the knob however I wanted, d) somewhat easily reversable in case it was horrible, e) anyone could do it, all you need is a stick of the Fast Steel epoxy putty ($3.97), some sandpaper, black paint (I used Krylon indoor / outdoor flat, seems better for wear against ultra black).

I first practiced on the broken screwdriver, using it as a simulated bolt handle, and to test durability. Started by using about 1/3 stick of the putty. It has the consistancy of a Tootsie roll. Knead together until the color is uniform and apply. You have about 5 minutes before it starts to really setup, when it starts getting warm to the touch, you are almost out of time.

After sanding and painting:



To test the durability of the Fast Steel, I put it in the oven at 150 degrees for 1 hour, then in the freezer for 2 hours - no flaking, peeling or cracking. Dropped it 3 times to a concrete floor from 3 feet, a small chip happened, but nothing catastrophic. This is much more abuse than ANY of my rifles would be subjected to, no failure on the Fast Steel.

I put the Fast Steel on the rifle itself going for a comfortable automotive shifter / walking stick knob type of shape:


It looked a little too weird though, even for me, so I sanded it down to a more conventional shape:


Before:


Before:


After:


Additional views:

Before:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif003.jpg[/img]

After:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif027.jpg[/img]

Before:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif005.jpg[/img]

After:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif025.jpg[/img]

Before:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif002.jpg[/img]

After:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif028.jpg[/img]

Before:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif001.jpg[/img]

After:
[img]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/BOLT%20KNOB/mkiif026.jpg[/img]

After the results (for under $5.00) of the "torture" testing and the look of the "knob" of the Fast Steel, I abandoned doing idea #2 as I liked the idea shaping the "knob" to however long, round, or position - high, low, straight, swept back. You can even shape the "knob" to fit your fingers and palm, put in texture (dimples like a golf ball using the tip of a drill bit, filing or etching in grooves, etc.). The Martha Stewart in me thought about inlaying an indian head nickel (it is a savage rifle), a state / bicentenial quarter, or etching my initials in the round outer part, for a little "bling", but then I thought not to. Just a few more ideas to kick around though.

FAST STEEL putty - $3.97
SAND PAPER (you probably have it on hand)
PAINT - Krylon flat black indoor / outdoor (puts it under $5.00 if on hand. add $2.99 if you have to purchase it)

TIME - 3-4 hours (excluding "practice knob")

Any of the methods mentioned to get the advantages of a tactical / oversized bolt knob is well worth it in my opinion. It definately helps with the cycling and the time between shots on a bolt gun. I, being a leftie with a rifle, find it very usefull using a rightie rifle. Plus it adds that certain eye catching custom "look". As most tactical centerfires has a tactical / oversized knob, it should be incorporated into a trainer for familiarity.

kind of funny looking, but all in all i like it. great job.

Another nice job Top Predator! Thank you for all the great posts and ideas. I like the way you take household items to tacticool your rimfires cheaply. Gives everyone options for making a Tac Trainer with very little budget.

Another great post TP keep it up

thanks, i'm really flattered with the support on this project.

i figure the only thing left (as far as still keeping it legal as a silhouette hunter class rifle) is bedding it, i'd like to use this Fast Steel stuff as it's cheap, durable as hell, and easy to work with. problem is i have to get the action in and set within 5 minutes or the whole rig is FUBAR.

i've been surfing around for an easy "average joe" bedding compound and technique, may be a little while before i can call this one "finished".

Nice! I dont have the guts to try this on my marlin though....
If you screw up, Does this come off? And how hard is it to get it off?

absolutely.

correspondance through:
http://www.toppredatorproducts.com/PRICING___ORDERING_INFO.php

i imagine i'd need a really good description of how you wanted shaped and pitched, maybe even a sketch.

remember, i'm not a professional gunsmith, just a guy with alot of time on his hands.

How does this come of?
So if i did this to a rifle? And lets say this, something on my rifle breaks... And i gotta ship it back, how do i get this off so that the company will work on my firearm?

the only way i can see to get the Fast Steel stuff off is to sand it off.

i don't see why the manufacturer wouldn't fix something wrong with a rifle if it has nothing to do with the handle, of course i could be wrong.

like all the stuff i did to the stock, if the stock cracks in half, i don't expect savage to replace it. but if something catastrophic happens to the receiver that is not stock related, i'd expect them to fix it.

Yea i see what your saying.

I have a bunch of work to do to my marlin.