Scope Leveling Made Easy

Scope Leveling with a Feeler Gauge

Here is quick and easy way to mount a scope, the following method is one of many out there, so this is not meant to replace any method you are currently happy to use. However this method is easy, fast and very accurate. It can be accomplished with limited space and requires only the bare minimum of tools. By using this method, the shooter can mount their scope the night before zeroing on their kitchen table and be confident the reticle is straight and level. This method saves time that can be used shooting instead of trying to set up a level surface and set of conditions many use to aid in "eye balling" the reticle straight.

I have never tried to mount a scope with a two piece base using this method, and I should start by saying I don't recommend a two piece base for a tactical rifle. I am fully aware many a hunter use and enjoy two piece bases, however, I do not employ them nor recommend this method with them.

What you need to begin:

A 65. inch pound Torque Wrench for the Rings' Cross Bolt.

A 15. inch pound Torque Wrench for the Rings' top screws.

A Deluxe Feeler Gauge set found at any local auto parts store.

Here we have a Nightforce USASFC that we are going to mount along with a set of Nightforce Rings.

Mounting the Scope and Leveling the Reticle Made Easy

To start we are going to mount the rings on the picatinney base of our Accuracy International AE rifle. To accomplish this, try and be sure to center the rings on the main tube sections of the scope so you have enough movement both forward and backward to obtain the correct eye relief.

Now, when mounting the rings, be sure to apply forward pressure so that the rings butt against the forward portion of the picatinney slot they are sitting in. Then using the 65 Inch Point Torque wrench, (in this case I am using SEEKONK Torque Wrenches designed for scope mounting.) You can snug the cross bolt using the Seekonk wrench until you get the first snap. We will come back to complete torquing this at the end.

Once each rings is mounted you can remove the top half of the rings using the 15 inch pound Seekonk. (Make sure you are using INCH pounds and not Foot pounds)

As you can see, I have the Front and Back halves separated and marked so not to confuse them. As well I have my Feeler Gauges ready to go. If you look underneath your scope you will see the flat we are going to use as illustrated in the picture above

Next we will place the scope in the rings. Here we have an area of deep debate, whether or not to lap the rings before mounting the scope. I personally do not lap my rings and I have never had an issue to speak. This is not to say that I don't believe in lapping, because I have no problem with it. I tend to use the best quality rings on the market including Badger, US Optics and Nightforce and I haven't found the need, but that doesn't mean I couldn't, I just don't.

Okay, be sure to set the Feeler Gauges to the proper depth. You don' t want the gauges pushing the scope out of the rings. They need to sit flush, as well the flat of the scope needs to sit flush on the gauges. This is what we will use to level the scope. The straight edge of the picatinney rail against the Feeler Gauges which are flush with the bottom of the scope. Once you have this set we can put the top halves on the rings but do not tighten them yet as we have to check your eye relief.

To check the eye relief, set the scope on it's mid power range. Then drop down behind the rifle in your good, straight behind the rifle prone position. When your check finds it's proper weld on the stock you should have perfect, crisp and clear sight picture. There shouldn't be any shading at any point in the scope. Don't worry about focus, or the reticle clarity now, that is for on the range. Right now we just want a perfect sight picture. Once you have that, with the Feeler Gauges under the scope, you can begin to tighten the rings.

When we begin to tighten the rings down, we want to alternate sides and work in a cross screw direction. Be sure when you are tightening the rings you don' t over tighten too much to one side or another. The gap between the top of the rings and the bottom on either side should be as close to equal as possible. That may mean you need to back one side off and tighten the other but once you have this this go ahead and torque the rings down to 15 inch pounds.

We are nearly down. But sure during this process the Feeler Gauges remain in position as you tighten the rings down. You may notice the pressure is beginning to build on the gauges, that is normal and as long as you weren't pushing the scope out of the rings to start you should be find.

After the top rings are complete, go back to the Cross Bolts with the 65 inch pound Seekonk and bump tighten each ring again until the wrench snaps. You want to take the slack out of the cross bolts by gently bumping the wrench before it snaps at the 65 inch pound mark.

At this point you are finished. You can now slide the Feeler Gauges out from under the scope. They maybe tight, but they should slide out very easily.

Normally I don't check my work until I am actually at the range because I am very confident in this method. However if this is your first time trying this, feel free to check level on the reticle. You can use a distant string suspended with a weight as a plumb line to check your work, which is what I have down below to demonstrate the final outcome.

Special Thanks to Nightforce Optics

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