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I bought the cip 20" ss 6.5 cm barrel and am getting easily sub moa using barnes factory 140 grn match loads
Working on prototyping some ARCA adapters for the MWS, not that I have the small frame ones done.
Is that a Vortex Impact LRF? What cover is on it?Working on prototyping some ARCA adapters for the MWS, not that I have the small frame ones done.
It is. The cover is the the one that came with it from Vortex.
I'm thinking about adding a Piston version to my LMT MWS lineup because I already have both DI and Piston version of my LMT MRP rifles & pistols. And I like having options.
That would be cool to hear about,
I just wouldn't slap 3lbs worth of optic and flashlight on it. Slap a aimpoint micro, and a lightweight, low back pressure K can on it and that thing could be nasty.
Got any pics? I’m hoping dwilson makes his prototype for the LM8 also but seeing as they’re kinda phased out I’m unsure. Just sent my barrel off to him to be chopped to 17.5” and adding a Seekins adjustable. Just need to pick up the lower, scope mount, and charging handle.
Here you go. The screw hole spacing on mlok matches the lm8 spacing. Once the mlok indexing protrusions are milled off it fits. Screws are 10-32.
Attachments
That Arca rail is looking good, do you have pictures from other angles? What are your thoughts on chamfering edges by the mag well or rounding the forward corners off?…do you think any of that would be a noticeable benefit?
Not many pictures at the moment. Still shooting some promo pictures.
We have considered what you describe, just working out some details on how to machine that economically.
Not many pictures at the moment. Still shooting some promo pictures.
We have considered what you describe, just working out some details on how to machine that economically.
Is it possible to include shorter M-LOK bolts that are machined to a length that does not interfere with the removal of the barrel? It will save us some time with a file or Dremel...
Question...
I'm building a mws. Just picked up an 15.3 upper and 308 cip barrel from lmt. Definitely want to have it suppressed.
How does the tbac dominus do on a mws?
What spring and buffer combo is recommended?
I read how over gassed mws are, but that's the can I have and would rather not buy another one if possible.
Would an lmt lower be better to run vs. a sr25 lower?
Thank you,
Amitune
I'm building a mws. Just picked up an 15.3 upper and 308 cip barrel from lmt. Definitely want to have it suppressed.
How does the tbac dominus do on a mws?
What spring and buffer combo is recommended?
I read how over gassed mws are, but that's the can I have and would rather not buy another one if possible.
Would an lmt lower be better to run vs. a sr25 lower?
Thank you,
Amitune
I like my Dominus, but it has a fair amount of backpressure on every AR-15 I own. It is tolerable on my PWS (but that is a piston gun with an adjustable gas block for suppressed) I haven't tried it on my MWS, but I suspect it will be over-gassed given other people's experiences with various suppressors. Someone had an adjustable gas block placed on their's some time back.
i don't think the lower you run will matter.
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- Less gas back in the face when running suppressed
- Stock adjustable gas
- Rifle doesn't "shit" where it eats
- It's really not that much weight
Am I the only one who kind of wants these rails left red? I think they kind of look cool.
Huxwrx Flow Ti is about as good as it gets on an LMT with factory gas - be it a piston or DI.
Everything else either requires tweaking the gas system or running an adjustable BCG. I found adjustable BCGs to work best despite using AGB for eons.
As said above, Dominus is gassy, but can be managed with remediation. Flow Ti requires no tweaking and if on a piston, run it on the unsupressed setting for max affect.
Mine works ok with an RC2 + piston running on suppressed + heavier buffer, but I would agree that some type of flow-through suppressor is a better idea.
Well it was between huxwrx flow ti or the RC2. But since I have a dominus, I'm trying to use what I have right now. More research is needed on my part. If anyone has more experience with any one of these cans on the mws, please feel free to share. Good and bad experiences. Thank you.
I’ve posted a couple times in this thread, but it is 106 pages now.
I run a 762RC on a MARS H with a 16” stainless barrel and a MWS with a 16” CL barrel.
Both guns run 100% with the suppressor mounted, smooth and don’t beat up the brass.
I run a 762RC on a MARS H with a 16” stainless barrel and a MWS with a 16” CL barrel.
Both guns run 100% with the suppressor mounted, smooth and don’t beat up the brass.
None. Guns are both exactly as they left the factory with the exception of Geissele triggers.
Ejection is completely normal. About 3:00. Brass lands a few feet from the gun.
I saw that you run that can. That's why the RC2 was on the list of potential can candidates, and I'm trying to find one if I decide to go that route. Have a few leads atm. Thanks for the reply.
The lmt wrenches are back in stock for the first time in a long time for anyone looking for one.
www.rooftopdefense.com
LMT Torque Wrench for MRP and MWS | Rooftop Defense
Buy LMT Torque Wrench for MRP and MWS | The LMT torque wrench comes pre-configured for the necessary torque spec for barrel changes, making it a must-have.
www.rooftopdefense.com
Are they worth it?The lmt wrenches are back in stock for the first time in a long time for anyone looking for one.
LMT Torque Wrench for MRP and MWS | Rooftop Defense
Buy LMT Torque Wrench for MRP and MWS | The LMT torque wrench comes pre-configured for the necessary torque spec for barrel changes, making it a must-have.
They are decent range bag tools for an unexpected field use but they are nothing great.
They are kind of tall and make it pretty easy to wallow out the screw recess.
Better than the Chinese wrenches they used to come with maybe.
I prefer a real torque wrench with a tight torx fit.
I think you can find better.
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I would agree with pmclaine. Not as good as a real torque wrench for the same money, but portable and can be thrown in a range bag. They also are good for those who are not mechanically inclined since everything is preset.
I got an in stock email from rooftop about 7 and a half hours ago, and 86 have sold since then, so they will probably be out of stock by tomorrow at this rate. I think there is a little over 100 left now if anyone is on the fence.
I got an in stock email from rooftop about 7 and a half hours ago, and 86 have sold since then, so they will probably be out of stock by tomorrow at this rate. I think there is a little over 100 left now if anyone is on the fence.
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I can’t even really imagine a “field use” for the wrench. Maybe a stuck case.
Thing with the bolts. Once you set them……leave them alone.
Use a tool you trust to get you somewhere near 140” # and leave it alone. Dudes have tested low tourque values with no issues. High tourque should be self limiting.
The idea of “I’m going to check the torque” will give you a snapped screw and you will be looking for an Allen to remove the stud.
I’ve never snapped one and I am shooting the originals still ten years on.
In case anyone didn’t know….I understand that when you snap a head the shafts are designed to take an Allen of the appropriate size and be backed out.
That to me is the most genius aspect of the whole LMT design. Someone anticipated the lowest common denominator and planned for it while still creating a design on the right side of the bell curve.
Just hope you have a spare $10 screw with you. Money better spent than the LMT tourque limiter.
Thing with the bolts. Once you set them……leave them alone.
Use a tool you trust to get you somewhere near 140” # and leave it alone. Dudes have tested low tourque values with no issues. High tourque should be self limiting.
The idea of “I’m going to check the torque” will give you a snapped screw and you will be looking for an Allen to remove the stud.
I’ve never snapped one and I am shooting the originals still ten years on.
In case anyone didn’t know….I understand that when you snap a head the shafts are designed to take an Allen of the appropriate size and be backed out.
That to me is the most genius aspect of the whole LMT design. Someone anticipated the lowest common denominator and planned for it while still creating a design on the right side of the bell curve.
Just hope you have a spare $10 screw with you. Money better spent than the LMT tourque limiter.
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Sent my 18” to Dwilson to be cut and added a Seekins adjustable block. Dunno about the scs or BCG
Question. Should i try to get rid of my LM8 to get a mlok for Dwilsons new arca rail? I got the LM8 for $700 with $200 worth of accessories.
For what it's worth I would say you are on to a good price. I bought used for not a whole lot less without the DMR stock but mine was quad rail which i prefer. Best of luck.
Well, guess I'm going to have to build another MWS.
308 Piston with a URX cut quad upper could be kind of cool.
308 Piston with a URX cut quad upper could be kind of cool.
Yes the JP bcg and SCS will work.
That said, I’m curious why would you want to do that?
What’s wrong with the normal LMT bcg and buffer / spring?
I use a Lo Mass BCG and SCS on a 16" 308 and the recoil impulse is fantastic. It eliminates the two-stroke cycling feel of a heavy BCG. It's just a straight punch in recoil and that's it; feels more like a bolt gun. IMO it's an improvement over using a heavy BCG designed for full auto use on a semi-precision rifle. I've shot a lot of SR25s but I've never shot an LMT; perhaps they are different. I'm just assuming based on the way LMT gasses their rifles and pursue military contracts they err on the side of heavy BCGs and lot's of gas in the spirit of ultimate reliability at the cost of shooters experience. They don't design a rifle to be tweaked by more experienced shooters and gunsmiths for use in low consequence environments.
I really just want a monolithic upper for a large frame AR more so than a military contract rifle for occasional competition shooting. Am I fucked up?
Not fucked up at all. If this works for you and doesn't cause you any reliability issues, more power to you.
I never saw an issue with using factory parts, so I never really looked into changing them, just curious about your desire to make the switch.
