22 Nosler

[LemieuxImage]

I am currently building a 22 Nosler AR-15. What do you guys know about the cartridge and any of you have experience with it?
Also, I am new to AR building and wondering if I should be looking for high dollar Lower parts kits and so forth.
I am going with a Complete Seekins upper and lower with a Seekins Handguard and Rock Creek Barrel. The rest I have not decided what I'm going to do. I run a suppressor so I think ill need to run Piston driven with a Raptor Charging handle. Any other tips? This is going to be a coyote rifle, shooting out to around 400-500 yards effectively.
Give me your best opinions and knowledge! I'm all ears and wanting to learn more!!

 

[BurnOut]

Regarding LPKs (lower parts kits), I would just go with the least expensive kit you can find... especially if you're going to be furnishing your own grip and FCG/trigger. My usual approach is to find the pins, springs, detents, bolt catch, and mag catch for as low of a price as I can find, then grab a safety (these days I really like the Seekins ambi safety in the 60-degree configuration), grip (I have a variety that I like, depending on the use of the gun, but a good go-to for me is the smaller unit from Ergo Grip), and trigger (I have a variety that I like here, too, depending on the use of the gun; loving the Velocity drop-in these days, especially for the price).

In regard to running the gun with a can on it, I'd definitely suggest a method for adjusting the gas; at the gas block would probably be your best option, given that you've already decided to go with a Seekins upper (otherwise, an additional option would be the Innovative Arms WAR upper, which moves the gas adjustment from the gas block to the upper, where the gas tube enters the receiver). There's always the adjustable carrier route (Gemtech, Rubber City, 2A, etc...), but the hitch is that at that point, you've already got the full volume of gas in the upper... and even if it doesn't go through the gas key to the bolt, it's still gotta go somewhere. So, gasface... which sucks. Of course, these concerns are moot if you go with a piston-driven setup... which solves the gasface/gas volume issue, but raises the concern of carrier tilt as the piston/op rod acts upon the carrier. This can be mitigated by using a POF buffer tube, which extends a little further into the lower receiver (than most other buffer tubes) and supports the ass end of the carrier, thus keeping it from tilting down so much when it gets smacked by the op rod.

Something to consider, though, in regard to piston setups, is that there's no such thing as a free lunch... when going piston (as opposed to DI), you get a heavier gun that has more reciprocating parts (which can affect the recoil impulse as the action cycles).

 

[LemieuxImage]

Regarding LPKs (lower parts kits), I would just go with the least expensive kit you can find... especially if you're going to be furnishing your own grip and FCG/trigger. My usual approach is to find the pins, springs, detents, bolt catch, and mag catch for as low of a price as I can find, then grab a safety (these days I really like the Seekins ambi safety in the 60-degree configuration), grip (I have a variety that I like, depending on the use of the gun, but a good go-to for me is the smaller unit from Ergo Grip), and trigger (I have a variety that I like here, too, depending on the use of the gun; loving the Velocity drop-in these days, especially for the price).

In regard to running the gun with a can on it, I'd definitely suggest a method for adjusting the gas; at the gas block would probably be your best option, given that you've already decided to go with a Seekins upper (otherwise, an additional option would be the Innovative Arms WAR upper, which moves the gas adjustment from the gas block to the upper, where the gas tube enters the receiver). There's always the adjustable carrier route (Gemtech, Rubber City, 2A, etc...), but the hitch is that at that point, you've already got the full volume of gas in the upper... and even if it doesn't go through the gas key to the bolt, it's still gotta go somewhere. So, gasface... which sucks. Of course, these concerns are moot if you go with a piston-driven setup... which solves the gasface/gas volume issue, but raises the concern of carrier tilt as the piston/op rod acts upon the carrier. This can be mitigated by using a POF buffer tube, which extends a little further into the lower receiver (than most other buffer tubes) and supports the ass end of the carrier, thus keeping it from tilting down so much when it gets smacked by the op rod.

Something to consider, though, in regard to piston setups, is that there's no such thing as a free lunch... when going piston (as opposed to DI), you get a heavier gun that has more reciprocating parts (which can affect the recoil impulse as the action cycles).

Thank you for the input! I'm glad to see the LPK isn't something that needs to be top dollar. Gives me some wiggle room on how good of trigger I want. I was looking at a CMC or a Gissele but wasn't sure on either of those yet as to which id be happier with. Same goes for the Stock. Was looking at magpul for that.

 

[sheepdog697]

I bet that will be a stellar coyote round. Keep us posted on the build.

 

[-=boone=-]

I'm waiting on Frank to get a reamer at Compass Lake. Probably end up with a 20"-22" Douglas barrel.

 

[ChadL]

I'm intrigued by this round. I look forward to reading about your build progress and firing line experience.

 

[Laseredge]

I am interested too. I am getting @2900 fps with hot 5.56-77gr. out of a CLE match chambered Bartlein 20". I really want to hear some real world velocities.

 

[RTH1800]

Some free advice you will likely ignore.

It is based on the killing in excess of 1200 coyotes over many years. Get a .204. Preferably with a Baer barrel or upper. It will be light years in front of a 22 Nosler. It will shoot inside a 22-250 for both windage and trajectory to 500 meters. It will be much more quite while doing so. . Use Hornady 32 grain ammo. You cannot load ammo that is as fast or any more accurate. If you get a Baer it will shoot in the .1s for 5 shot groups. At 500 meters your groups will be under 2.5" It is point and shoot to 360 meters. Leads are so small you will be amazed on runners. One shot kills with most all body hits.

I learned all the above the hard way and have a room full of varmint rifles and ammo that should never have happened. If I had done this from the start I would have saved tens of thousands of dollars, years of time and killed far more coyotes.

Good luck with your decision and project.

RTH

 

[softcock]

What ( rth 1800 ) said ... ( .204 ) it has a big following and well proven and cemented in to stay . I thought seriously about going the 22-Nosler for a Upper build, but there is still some unsettled bitching over @ predatormasters.com from few guys about the Round . wont take long to see if 22-nosler going to die out for an Coyote AR15 cartridge .

. I just going threw this recently myself . Coyote hunting going full circle from AR15 for few years, to Boltaction for several years and now switching back to AR15 and doing another build . AR-coyote , I ended-up with just going a Necked-up x45 parent Case route for my Barrel and upper parts & dies . You cant go wrong with a .204 or any of the Necked x45 variants . I just not feeling the 22-Nosler luv flowing my way yet .
.
.

 

[RTH1800]

Sir,
I have shot out several. I seem to get 2500 rounds per barrel before it begins shooting over MOA. My present barrel has 1200 plus, shows erosion when viewed with bore scope and shot a .15 5 shot group yesterday. Most of the rds are fired no faster than a bolt action. Often just a single shot.