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6.5 Grendel

As a side note I did get the Sharps extreme performance bolt and ran it in my rifle. I was not happy. I was running ladders for velocity only for my 100gr ELD M’s and some 107 Smk’s. On the lowest start load the first couple of rounds stove piped. I went to single feed them. Alternatively the rifle would go from not ejecting from the gun well, to just barely flopping out, to 2:00 o’clock ejection pattern to not even ejecting the round with it still being squarely in the bolt. I was single feeding do the bcc was held by the bolt catch.

I pulled that bolt and put back the previous Odin works bolt. The following day this is when I did some other bullet straight ladder test for velocity and pressure signs. That bolt functioned flawlessly.

I contacted Sharps and told customer service of my problem and suggested that I return the bolt and some accompanying brass so they could figure out what was going on and correct them. Their response was looking at pick I sent you were running rounds well over pressure which caused the brass flecks on the case head and ultimately functional failure of the bolt after 30 rounds.

So I decided I would pull the bolt apart. The extractor and ejector pin and figure out the problem. Here is a quick summary of my findings.

The extractor had a fairly large o-ring on it which made any movement of the extractor when the round was going into battery offer a tremendous amount of resistance. Examining my brass from that firing cycle the faces of the case head were pretty stable very little if any case swiping but the rims of the case heads had small cuts in the from the claw of the extractor.

I measured all my spent cases for evidence of drastic over pressuring of the loads. All measurements, neck, base, case web, were within .001 tolerances. While primers ( cci 450’s) were a little flattened but still with round edges, there was no cratering of the primers. So this was not causational to bolt function.

So my take is that the extractor exhibited so much resistance to opening during the final rotational movement into battery that the sharp edge of the extractor was cutting the edges of the case rim as it pushed by. So I will either find a slightly smaller o-ring or shave of a little of the existing to lessen the resistance of the extractor as the case goes into battery.

As far as the ejection pin. I soaked the pin head area with WD40 and then successfully pushed down on the ejector until it loosened enough and finally extended all the way. There actually were a few brass shards that had made their way down in between the pin and the wall of the hole which ultimately locked it in a flush condition.

I cleaned out the hole with a small rat tail file very lightly moving it back and forth. Again I picked up a very small shard of brass. really small pieces, barely visible to my eye but pick up in light. I then wiped down the pin inspected it and placed it in the hole. It was still binding up. So I broke out my Dremel and put a polishing wheel on it. Put some Flick on it it and went about polishing the pin.

I then placed the pin in the hole to check for clearance and function. Absolutely no snagging, it ran up and down with little or no resistance. I reassembled the bolt and I will see what I have or I can find to replace the , what I believe is over sized o-ring. If I can’t find one I will shave some the existing o-ring off, and then I will put it back in.

I still think the Sharps extreme bolt is a good deal and I suspect going forward it will function flawlessly. But when you pay $131 for a bolt you expect it to function 100% out of the box.

I did write a review to the customer service rep of my findings in a little more lengthy report, hoping they will apply it to their QC and production operations. I did let them know that I was not happy with their dismissal of me as a customer. Assuming I was just some buffoon.
 
As a side note I did get the Sharps extreme performance bolt the other day and ran it in my rifle. I was not happy. I was running ladders for velocity only for my 100gr ELD M’s and some 107 Smk’s. On the lowest start load the first couple of rounds stove piped. I went to single feed them. Alternatively the rifle would go from not ejecting from the gun well, to just barely flopping out, to 2:00 o’clock ejection pattern to not even ejecting the round with it still being squarely in the bolt. I was single feeding do the bcc was held by the bolt catch.



I pulled that bolt and put back the previous Odin works bolt. The following day this is when I did some other bullet straight ladder test for velocity and pressure signs. That bolt functioned flawlessly.



I contacted Sharps and told customer service of my problem and suggested that I return the bolt and some accompanying brass so they could figure out what was going on and correct them. Their response was looking at pick I sent you were running rounds well over pressure which caused the brass flecks on the case head and ultimately functional failure of the bolt after 30 rounds.



So I decided I would pull the bolt apart. The extractor and ejector pin and figure out the problem. Here is a quick summary of my findings.



The extractor had a fairly large o-ring on it which made any movement of the extractor when the round was going into battery offer a tremendous amount of resistance. Examining my brass from that firing cycle the faces of the case head were pretty stable very little if any case swiping but the rims of the case heads had small cuts in the from the claw of the extractor.



I measured all my spent cases for evidence of drastic over pressuring of the loads. All measurements, neck, base, case web, were within .001 tolerances. While primers ( cci 450’s) were a little flattened but still with round edges, there was no cratering of the primers. So this was not causational to bolt function.



So my take is that the extractor exhibited so much resistance to opening during the final rotational movement into battery that the sharp edge of the extractor was cutting the edges of the case rim as it pushed by. So I will either find a slightly smaller o-ring or shave of a little of the existing to lessen the resistance of the extractor as the case goes into battery.



As far as the ejection pin. I soaked the pin head area with WD40 and then successfully pushed down on the ejector until it loosened enough and finally extended all the way. There actually were a few brass shards that had made their way down in between the pin and the wall of the hole which ultimately locked it in a flush condition.



I cleaned out the hole with a small rat tail file very lightly moving it back and forth. Again I picked up a very small shard of brass. really small pieces, barely visible to my eye but pick up in light. I then wiped down the pin inspected it and placed it in the hole. It was still binding up. So I broke out my Dremel and put a polishing wheel on it. Put some Flick on it it and went about polishing the pin.



I then placed the pin in the hole to check for clearance and function. Absolutely no snagging, it ran up and down with little or no resistance. I reassembled the bolt and I will see what I have or I can find to replace the , what I believe is over sized o-ring. If I can’t find one I will shave some the existing o-ring off, and then I will put it back in.



I still think the Sharps extreme bolt is a good deal and I suspect going forward it will function flawlessly. But when you pay $131 for a bolt you expect it to function 100% out of the box.



I did write a review to the customer service rep of my findings in a little more lengthy report, hoping they will apply it to their QC and production operations. I did let them know that I was not happy with their dismissal of me as a customer. Assuming I was just some buffoon.
 
S7 steel is not ideal for tiny parts under high stresses. If you look at the Barrett 82 or M107 bolts, which are made with S7, they are huge triangles that don’t have tiny lugs.

iu


9310 has been working great for Grendel bolts, especially Aerospace grade put through certain processes like Vacuum Arc Remelt. I would not mess around with the unknowns, and even with 5.56, there were a lot of lug failures with S7 as soon as they were released.

For extractors, all you need is a quality extractor spring and elastomer insert to keep it from folding over. I take out O-rings any time I see them because they add unnecessary extractor tension and make going into battery more difficult, while placing stress on the extractor lip during the chambering process.

I also de-horn the corners of extractors if they have sharp edges. The M4 TDP calls for machine-relief cut surfaces that remove the extractor sharp lips as they cause excess brass shavings in the bolt face area, which are known to not help with reliability.

I also check ejector function to make sure there isn’t any binding. You might want to Oxy-blue it after polishing to make sure it doesn’t corrode on the surface. This is what I do to any parts on the bolt that get tuned-up or polished.
 
S7 steel is not ideal for tiny parts under high stresses. If you look at the Barrett 82 or M107 bolts, which are made with S7, they are huge triangles that don’t have tiny lugs.

iu


9310 has been working great for Grendel bolts, especially Aerospace grade put through certain processes like Vacuum Arc Remelt. I would not mess around with the unknowns, and even with 5.56, there were a lot of lug failures with S7 as soon as they were released.

For extractors, all you need is a quality extractor spring and elastomer insert to keep it from folding over. I take out O-rings any time I see them because they add unnecessary extractor tension and make going into battery more difficult, while placing stress on the extractor lip during the chambering process.

I also de-horn the corners of extractors if they have sharp edges. The M4 TDP calls for machine-relief cut surfaces that remove the extractor sharp lips as they cause excess brass shavings in the bolt face area, which are known to not help with reliability.

I also check ejector function to make sure there isn’t any binding. You might want to Oxy-blue it after polishing to make sure it doesn’t corrode on the surface. This is what I do to any parts on the bolt that get tuned-up or polished.
Thanks for the input, the Sharps Bolt is here to stay. The extractor lips need to be honed smooth to remove the sharp end point. That coupled with the oversized o-ring is a recipe for disaster as far as creating brass shavings off the case rims.

When I polished the pin I did not remove the DLC it was treated with. It merely made it very slick and removed uneven surface deviations. So I think the pin is good. I will watch it though.

In the end though what amazes me is mainstream company has this as a vaunted product, which will in it’s current form only serve to piss off a lot off people.
 
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Anytime a competent company in a certain field makes something and does so to the best of their ability in their minds, you always have to zoom out and look at the whole system to see what 2nd and 3rd order effects are resonating through it.

You can be the best barrel maker but might suck at profiling, chambering, and threading. Doesn’t take away from the fact that nobody can drill a straight hole through a pipe like you and cut or button beautiful rifling, with a sweet polishing of the bore that removes tooling marks.

You can make the most precisely-machined bolt carrier, but if it doesn’t articulate correctly with the bolt and gas rings, the gun won’t run right.

Same with bolts. Someone might really have a great process for the bolt, but then slaps on a questionable extractor, spring, and O-ring thinking those are good enough, but they aren’t.

It’s why I kinda wish high-end companies would just offer their parts so I can go through them myself and assemble to my specs.
 
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