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YES, I didn't think about it when I tried for the first time to anneal
my 6br brass. Had been doing 6 creed and adjusted the flame to the shorter
cases. Burned the edge of the wheel so bad, it got soft and left some of the black tar like on
the cases. I just took wheel off and thinned it down some. Didn't ruin any cases, just spent
more time in cleaning it off half dozen of them.
Probably the half ass way of doing it, but worked.
my 6br brass. Had been doing 6 creed and adjusted the flame to the shorter
cases. Burned the edge of the wheel so bad, it got soft and left some of the black tar like on
the cases. I just took wheel off and thinned it down some. Didn't ruin any cases, just spent
more time in cleaning it off half dozen of them.
Probably the half ass way of doing it, but worked.
which wheel kit were you using, the large or the small?
From the annealeez website:
"Longer than 2.5″ with a diameter between 0.5″ and 0.625″? Add Large Case Kit
Between 1.25″ and 2.0″ long with a diameter less than 0.5″? Add Small Case Kit
Shorter than 2.0″ with a diameter between 0.5″ and 0.625″? Add Super Short Magnum Kit"
From the annealeez website:
"Longer than 2.5″ with a diameter between 0.5″ and 0.625″? Add Large Case Kit
Between 1.25″ and 2.0″ long with a diameter less than 0.5″? Add Small Case Kit
Shorter than 2.0″ with a diameter between 0.5″ and 0.625″? Add Super Short Magnum Kit"
I run the standard wheel with both Dasher and 6BRA brass. They key is to swap out the older style mounting bracket for the turn buckle style bracket where you can push the torch head closer to the body of the annealer. That allows the flame of the torch to angle outwards/away from the wheels rather than pointing at them. Then I run a flame that's not too aggressive, usually with the "inner point" of the blue flame being somewhere between touching the neck of the brass out to 1/2" away from the brass. I also use the stardard wheels with 223 brass in the same configuration.
Have annealed thousands and thousands of cases this way without issue. The only time I got the wheels hot was when I had the flame angled inward too much before I figured out how to adjust torch position.
Have annealed thousands and thousands of cases this way without issue. The only time I got the wheels hot was when I had the flame angled inward too much before I figured out how to adjust torch position.
I must be running a smaller flame than you then. 6BRA is the same length as 6BR and I'll run hundreds at a time without issue. I've got my annealeez set up with a regulator so I'm not running at full throttle.
I have the same updated torch mount, so I will try the standard wheels that came with it and see how it works. I have only used it on 223, 6.5 Creed, and 260 brass so far.
I don't have a regulator, run it wide open. Maybe part of the problem. I tried to angle it every which way.
Like I said, I fixed it. Probably a better way to do it. Didn't want to wait for
different wheels. I just adjust the secondary flame close to the neck-shoulder junction
Seems to work, have annealed and fired Lapua cases 20+ times and no splits or cracks
Like I said, I fixed it. Probably a better way to do it. Didn't want to wait for
different wheels. I just adjust the secondary flame close to the neck-shoulder junction
Seems to work, have annealed and fired Lapua cases 20+ times and no splits or cracks
Let me know if theirs something you see that I don't.
You can see from the (crappy photo) how close the shoulder is to the bottom wheel
and now that I took a little from the top, it's down from the shoulder.
Should I slide the torch all the way to the cabinet? Still might have a 1/2 inch of room.
You can see from the (crappy photo) how close the shoulder is to the bottom wheel
and now that I took a little from the top, it's down from the shoulder.
Should I slide the torch all the way to the cabinet? Still might have a 1/2 inch of room.
I’d give that a try and angle it out a little, but that’s a stubby little case. Maybe take a 1/4 off the wheel on the belt sander?
When I do BR cases I have the torch up against the cabinet as close as possible.
Snapped a pick last week when annealing 6BRA brass. Did 430 pieces nonstop with no ill effects to the standard wheels. They get warm, but don't melt.
I kind of keep mine positioned there anyway, and just rotate it out for longer cases.
I have no doubt that other machines/methods are better, for any number of given reasons. Speaking only for myself, I have to have an auto-feeding one. I do other stuff while the cases are annealing, and I would find it a hassle to have to attend it constantly. I don't even have to watch it as long as I'm hearing a consistent plink of them falling into the pan.
ooooh, shiny! Are those pin tumbled or agitated in corn?
I have no doubt that other machines/methods are better, for any number of given reasons. Speaking only for myself, I have to have an auto-feeding one. I do other stuff while the cases are annealing, and I would find it a hassle to have to attend it constantly. I don't even have to watch it as long as I'm hearing a consistent plink of them falling into the pan.
ooooh, shiny! Are those pin tumbled or agitated in corn?
@Sheldon N what is that digital readout you have on top? And can you share which regulator you have? I’ve read some threads on mods but most seem to be rather difficult.
It's a small volt meter I got off ebay, something like $10 or $15 if I remember right? It connects to the wires on the motor control and gives you the ability to repeat speed settings over time.
The regulater is a Goss, I think it was about $85 with the gauge. I'm using the stock torch but had to modify it to get the flow rate to work (pin size drill into interior of valve).
A bit of tinkering to get it all set up, but has been going strong for a while now and I'm really happy with how it runs.
Any pics or details on how you actually did this? I just got the same setup, bought the volt meter, and now waiting on the regulator before I finally get it set up to run.
Thanks Sheldon. I’ll try to get those mods hooked up on mine.
I can't remember exactly. I know that when I set it all up I wasn't getting enough flow into the torch with the regulator set at around 35psi. I messed around a ton trying to figure it out, finally I just sent a small drill bit up the center hole in the torch head and that fixed the problem. Kinda redneck problem solving but it worked.
Gotcha. That's my kind of fix!
How do you test to see if it is annealing evenly all the way around?
Not sure I understand the question. The case is in the flame, it’s spinning the whole time, therefore heat distribution is equal around the circumference regardless of angle.
How do you determine how fast it spins is what i was asking.
Some guys will use tempilaq to check the temperature of the brass to be sure the brass has been annealed properly. My approach has been to turn out the lights and block the light from the annealer power switch then watch the brass closely to see when the inside of the neck barely begins to show signs of glowing red. I back the speed setting just slightly from there so that it doesn’t glow red but is close. That’s worked well for me.
Thanks for information. Out of curiosity have you ever crossed checked that method with tempilaq
You adjust the knob....
This thread has me looking hard at a Gen 2 Annealeez. I had no idea they were so affordable.
After watching about a dozen YouTube videos on the set-up & operation, a few questions come to mind. They may be inconsequential but I’ll ask anyway.
The inner blue flame - do you let it touch the neck-shoulder junction or back it off 1/4” or so?
Do you run your cases until JUST BEFORE you see any orange flame, or do you go by the most minute glow of the neck?
Does a propane bottle running low effect the process?
Does the COLOR of a finished case have any bearing on your set-up? Some guys are showing finished cases that have a lot of color, and others barely any. I’ve been told that coloration depends highly on the specific metallurgy of the brass? (I know not to venture much below the shoulder-body junction)
After watching about a dozen YouTube videos on the set-up & operation, a few questions come to mind. They may be inconsequential but I’ll ask anyway.
The inner blue flame - do you let it touch the neck-shoulder junction or back it off 1/4” or so?
Do you run your cases until JUST BEFORE you see any orange flame, or do you go by the most minute glow of the neck?
Does a propane bottle running low effect the process?
Does the COLOR of a finished case have any bearing on your set-up? Some guys are showing finished cases that have a lot of color, and others barely any. I’ve been told that coloration depends highly on the specific metallurgy of the brass? (I know not to venture much below the shoulder-body junction)
1) Can’t speak to the flame but when soldering cooper pipes I always adjusted it to just hit the point of the inner flame and it would kind of wrap itself around. That may not apply here though, I use induction so not sure but figure I’ll sling some shit to the wall and see what sticks.
2) Neither. Get some 750 tempilaq and put a smidge inside the neck. It’s a temp indicating paint. When you see it go from dry green to liquid clear you hit that temperature, it will continue to turn black past that as it burns off. Some steel wool will scrape it out well. Try to angle the torch away from the annealed body where you can so that the flames aren’t limited directly into the neck and burning the paint prematurely.
3) Yes drop in line pressure can effect the flame temp. Big bottles and regulators to keep it even I guess.
4) Color depends on the cases cleanliness. The more firings your case gets the more it will have surface oxide and shit tarnish in the heat. Don’t let that guide you, trust the tempilaq.
2) Neither. Get some 750 tempilaq and put a smidge inside the neck. It’s a temp indicating paint. When you see it go from dry green to liquid clear you hit that temperature, it will continue to turn black past that as it burns off. Some steel wool will scrape it out well. Try to angle the torch away from the annealed body where you can so that the flames aren’t limited directly into the neck and burning the paint prematurely.
3) Yes drop in line pressure can effect the flame temp. Big bottles and regulators to keep it even I guess.
4) Color depends on the cases cleanliness. The more firings your case gets the more it will have surface oxide and shit tarnish in the heat. Don’t let that guide you, trust the tempilaq.
No, just lots and lots of shooting. Brass life has been great and loads are consistent from twice fired through 15 and 20x fired.
Has anyone who uses their AnnealEez for only one cartridge fit a regulator & gauge or flow meter onto their machine?
How about just a shut off valve?
It seems like if you use the regulator on the nozzle to shut the flame off, you have to readjust the regulator every time you start the machine up again.
I’d just want to be able to set the regulator on the nozzle and not ever touch it again, for the sake of consistency.
How about just a shut off valve?
It seems like if you use the regulator on the nozzle to shut the flame off, you have to readjust the regulator every time you start the machine up again.
I’d just want to be able to set the regulator on the nozzle and not ever touch it again, for the sake of consistency.
I ordered one Monday morning about 11:30. It being delivered today. I had a shipping notice 30 minutes after placing my order.
As a matter of fact, it arrived about 30 minutes ago.
Ordered my “Anal-Ease” as my wife called it.
Can’t wait to burn the house down with this guy.
Now... I’ll be moving onto the Annealeez Modification Thread for some ideas!
Can’t wait to burn the house down with this guy.
Now... I’ll be moving onto the Annealeez Modification Thread for some ideas!
No, it works the other way. With a regulator inline between the bottle and the torch you get a consistent pressure to the torch. This is regardless of whether the bottle is full or mostly empty, or whether it it hot or cold or whether the bottle is cooling off from a larger lot of brass. Otherwise you would get variation.
I set the regulator on mine at 35psi and then never touch it. All I do is open the valve all the way, light the torch and start annealing.
Switching between cartridges I just change the speed. I have a voltage meter on the dial so I know what number to set it to for each case type.
Is it safe to say that all 308 body cases will be the same setting?
Say the 6.5 creedmoor and a 6bra. Both 308 body to my knowledge. So should spin the same speed. Other than adjusting torch for length will it be good to go?
Similar but it really depends on the brass itself. Example, you have Winchester .308 brass and Hornady .308 brass. The setting will be close but different due to different metallurgy of the brass mixtures.
I don’t think they will necessarily be the same. Some necks are thicker than others and take longer to get to temp. Better to treat each case type individually and test them during setup.
