Like I said, they are just using the best fitting cocking piece from the sizes they have, no hand fitting. My Archimedes with TT Diamond Pro trigger has negative cock on close (whatever that is called) so when you unlock the action with a cocked striker there is slight cocking at the top of the bolt lift. Ted hinted that was a possibility and I rolled the dice asking for no "bump on close". I'm going to call them next week and order another cocking piece and hand fit it myself. My TL3 started with .035" of cock on close and now it is zero.
- Thread starter ddavis
- Start date
Like I said, they are just using the best fitting cocking piece from the sizes they have, no hand fitting. My Archimedes with TT Diamond Pro trigger has negative cock on close (whatever that is called) so when you unlock the action with a cocked striker there is slight cocking at the top of the bolt lift. Ted hinted that was a possibility and I rolled the dice asking for no "bump on close". I'm going to call them next week and order another cocking piece and hand fit it myself. My TL3 started with .035" of cock on close and now it is zero.
Well, there is another issue. I didn't pre order anything. ARC website said the action was in stock, no backorder. I paid for it online in full. Ted called me the next week to tell me his website was wrong and I asked how long. He said 8 weeks, well, then 8 weeks later I checked on it, guess what 8 more weeks, then 2 weeks later, at least 8 weeks he said. I own two businesses in retail, I understand there are hold ups. But, just say its gonna be a while, dont bullshit me.
Hey, its your money. If you would rather spend time waiting on parts to come in, just to send them back to get reworked go ahead. When you get done the rest of us will be at the range. ?
*** Edited After Cooling Off ***
Just got my action back and the bolt handle has substantial wear down to bare metal. I was pretty upset about this as the action was going into a gun being given as a gift. I called ARC and apparently this is the result of running the bolt while testing the trigger. They said this is supposed to be a wear point. I wish they would have treated the handle to help prevent this. It's an awfully expensive action to have bare metal visible with the bolt closed.
Just got my action back and the bolt handle has substantial wear down to bare metal. I was pretty upset about this as the action was going into a gun being given as a gift. I called ARC and apparently this is the result of running the bolt while testing the trigger. They said this is supposed to be a wear point. I wish they would have treated the handle to help prevent this. It's an awfully expensive action to have bare metal visible with the bolt closed.
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My bolt had some similar marks on it, but I'm not too worried about it. It's going to look like that anyways. I understand if it was for a gift that you would be upset.
I took some diamond hones from my knife sharpening kit yesterday and took some material off the cocking piece. It only needed 0.010 so it was pretty easy to do. It is much smoother now and I can close the bolt slowly without forcing it. Thanks for that suggestion.
-Dan
I took some diamond hones from my knife sharpening kit yesterday and took some material off the cocking piece. It only needed 0.010 so it was pretty easy to do. It is much smoother now and I can close the bolt slowly without forcing it. Thanks for that suggestion.
-Dan
Ummm, yeah. It is my money. And, so far I haven't missed a single day at the range, cause I have been busy absolutely loving my Nucleus built rifle. And, if it takes a little time to get my Archimedes, big deal. Like I said, I had no illusions about that possibility here, just like a bunch of others.
Again, you make my point even more with your clarification. You didn't make a pre-order and so the only reason you came on this thread to crap on ARC and and the people buying them.
You don't get why we would do it, fine, but you aren't trying to help us. Its clear you can't be happy unless you come in here and keep crapping here.
Again, you make my point even more with your clarification. You didn't make a pre-order and so the only reason you came on this thread to crap on ARC and and the people buying them.
You don't get why we would do it, fine, but you aren't trying to help us. Its clear you can't be happy unless you come in here and keep crapping here.
Just got my SA Archimedes back from ARC after going in for the bolt diameter fix and the sear engagement side issue. I sent in the complete action along with the (CE) trigger, and even holding the action in my hand (rather than bolting it in a stock), I am really pleased with the way it runs.
Kudos to Ted and the crew for getting it turned around quickly, and for putting together such an innovative action!
Kudos to Ted and the crew for getting it turned around quickly, and for putting together such an innovative action!
If someone was willing to do a little video or picture series about how to measure cock on close and how to hand file/fit the cocking piece I think it would be appreciated by more than just myself.
If you wanted things tested and the correct cocking piece fitted, ship ARC a trigger and have it tested and fitted to your action before they ship it. Thanks to manufacturing tolerances triggers aren't identical (even from the same manufacturer) and ARC's recommendation of the 035 cocking piece is *usually* what a TT diamond needs to be right around 0 cock on close.
You can always go long on the choice and then hone it shorter. Being on another continent is a dilemma...
Keep in mind ARC does salt bath nitriding on the cocking pieces, and depending on the alloy of steel and the exact treatment used the hardened depth may be as little as 0.008"... So if you hone the cocking piece too much you may go through the hardened outer layer. How much effect that will have on the wear life of the sear surface of the cocking piece I can't say, but it's something to keep in mind.
Your best bet is to contact ARC, they're very helpful. And if you could get the trigger you want to use into their hands they will test it on the action and pick the best cocking piece and then ship it to you.
Keep in mind bighorn / Zermatt also offers different cocking pieces for the TL3. Not sure if they sell them separately, but if you send your trigger and action to them they will fit the appropriate cocking piece.
I have both an Archimedes and a TL3, and while I like them both the Archimedes is smoother with a lighter bolt lift. It's faster and you don't need tools to swap the bolt head on the TL3 though; the Nucleus 2.0 and the TL3 are identical in that regard.
Your best bet is to contact ARC, they're very helpful. And if you could get the trigger you want to use into their hands they will test it on the action and pick the best cocking piece and then ship it to you.
Keep in mind bighorn / Zermatt also offers different cocking pieces for the TL3. Not sure if they sell them separately, but if you send your trigger and action to them they will fit the appropriate cocking piece.
I have both an Archimedes and a TL3, and while I like them both the Archimedes is smoother with a lighter bolt lift. It's faster and you don't need tools to swap the bolt head on the TL3 though; the Nucleus 2.0 and the TL3 are identical in that regard.
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Sorry to ignite an old thread, I am having a similar issue with the cocking mechanism on my Mausingfield LA. Do we know if anyone else has experienced similar issues outside of the Archimedes and Nucleus?
Be more specific about what your actual problem is and guys will be able to help you more
Basically, if I manipulate that action normally the action doesnt cock. If I manipulate the action aggressively, especially rearward then the action will cock and allow me to fire. (Mausingfield LA Magnum / TriggerTech Diamond)
Posting this mostly to follow this thread, because this is a SWAG, but it might be the cocking piece is just a bit too long and is not engaging the sear unless you pull the bolt back aggressively? Does the Mausingfield have different cocking pieces available like the Archimedes? Looking forward to some of the more experienced folks getting involved.
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How do you handfit the cocking piece? I recently got a Gen2 Nucleus Long Action which I use a on Huber Concepts 2 stage trigger. Has to be run fast with some extra pressure to close the bolt
I understand ARCs sells different cocking pieces, but (like all things) if I can smooth it out with some tinkering, I like to handle things myself.
I've seen several people suggest "stoning" the sear? What does this mean? Wet stone for sharpening knives?
What part of the cocking piece did you grind down some?
After reading through these posts, I took a file to it. 2 hrs later and I still had about .010 to go. Gave up and got out the Dremel, & 5 min later the bolt closes great with just a slight “cock on close” bump.
Pictures?
@Cascade Hemi , I don't think pictures would be particularly descriptive.
(1) I took bolt out, and attached the washer to the back of the cocking piece.
(2) I screwed the cocking piece back just far enough so that when I put the bolt back into the rifle, it would close smoothly.
(3) I then marked the bolt body with a fine-tip marker to indicate where the cocking piece sear engagement needed to be to avoid the "cock on close" bump and close smoothly.
(4) Afterwards I removed the washer and let the cocking piece return to its normal position. From this I could see how much further the cocking piece protruded beyond the mark I put on the bolt body. Anything beyond that mark, I colored on the cocking piece's sear engagement.
(5) I took my Dremel (after first spending a couple of hours trying to use a normal file), and ground the cocking piece until the place I marked was 95% gone, and then kept checking how easily the bolt would close. I kept grinding a little bit more until I could close the bolt easily, but left a very slight "bump."
I have been working on load development, and this weekend while trying different seating depths, think I found a pretty good load for the 6.5 prc.
(1) I took bolt out, and attached the washer to the back of the cocking piece.
(2) I screwed the cocking piece back just far enough so that when I put the bolt back into the rifle, it would close smoothly.
(3) I then marked the bolt body with a fine-tip marker to indicate where the cocking piece sear engagement needed to be to avoid the "cock on close" bump and close smoothly.
(4) Afterwards I removed the washer and let the cocking piece return to its normal position. From this I could see how much further the cocking piece protruded beyond the mark I put on the bolt body. Anything beyond that mark, I colored on the cocking piece's sear engagement.
(5) I took my Dremel (after first spending a couple of hours trying to use a normal file), and ground the cocking piece until the place I marked was 95% gone, and then kept checking how easily the bolt would close. I kept grinding a little bit more until I could close the bolt easily, but left a very slight "bump."
I have been working on load development, and this weekend while trying different seating depths, think I found a pretty good load for the 6.5 prc.
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I just wanted to see a dremeled sear.
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