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Bipods? How far out on barrel?

rottenruger

Sergeant of the Hide
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May 31, 2020
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This is probably a no brainer. I just got in my first Daniel Defense rifle and am outfitting it. Never occurred to me before on my Ruger 6.5 or .338 RPRs, but this time it did.

Is there any reason to attach the bipods other than as far out as they can be attached? That seems logical, but not all things are as they appear.

(I prefer my bull bag with 1/2 inch rubber square "risers" to adjust it's height, but I'm in my 70s now and hauling that weight is a chore.)

Thanks for any help!

But please skip the insults, ha ha!
 
If no on-the-clock adjustment is expected, I go as far out as possible. Otherwise, they have to be close enough I can adjust without getting up from prone…so arms length.
 
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I don’t run mine all the way out when I’m shooting with a magnetospeed (which is almost always) because it’s occupying the end of the rail. Otherwise, further out the better.

Take a look at these guys for other options to get your bipod way out https://accuracysolutions.com/

And these guys for a magnetospeed mount https://www.mkmachining.com/product/mk-machining-gen-iii-magnetospeed-mount/
Thanks! This is the kind of thing I wasn't thinking about but need to consider. I use UTG two pice bipods which attach to the barrel shrouds, so they're back far enough, for my Magnetospeed, by luck.

An aside: It was not the bipod but the huge brake on my 338 that got in the way of the magnetospeed one time, and it kind blew to pieces because it did not attach or reach far enough. Learned to just use book speeds for that one until I can budget in the fancier magnetospeed! Thanks again!
 
Farther out the more stable. Close to center can be handy for engaging multiple targets Depends on the rifles job
Thanks, that seemed to be the logical placement. I do bench shooting, but most of my shooting is with SHTF in mind.......so I need to REALLY REMEMBER to bring the bipods in to allow better maneuverability if things ever do go totally south.
 
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If you don't have full length pic rail and have the want or need to reposition it look at the KDG stuff:


One caveat though, the tiny screws that hold it together need a drop of blue or purple loctite. They will vibrate apart in short order otherwise.
 
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Further out is more stable, but you should probably attach it where it can be adjusted from the prone without having to get up to reach it.
I'm going to need to consider your post for SHTF if ever. I do just bench shooting, so never think of adjusting the bipods. I use UTG two piece bipods attached to the Mlok on my rifle shrouds........there is no reach out and change it easily option. I'd better research and acquire what I will need to obtain to allow this adaptability if things go too much further south.
 
If no on-the-clock adjustment is expected, I go as far out as possible. Otherwise, they have to be close enough I can adjust without getting up from prone…so arms length.
I copy another reply to you: I'm going to need to consider your post for SHTF if ever. I do just bench shooting, so never think of adjusting the bipods. I use UTG two piece bipods attached to the Mlok on my rifle shrouds........there is no reach out and change it easily option. I'd better research and acquire what I will need to obtain to allow this adaptability if things go too much further south. Thanks your feedback!
 
I'm going to need to consider your post for SHTF if ever. I do just bench shooting, so never think of adjusting the bipods. I use UTG two piece bipods attached to the Mlok on my rifle shrouds........there is no reach out and change it easily option. I'd better research and acquire what I will need to obtain to allow this adaptability if things go too much further south.
It is what it is, place them where they are comfortable for you to use and figure out how to adjust quickly if needed.

My KDG advice above is for a conventional picatinny type attachment. It allows flexibility depending on need. Currently I use one for a Cole-tac flat bag or in the rare case I need to move my bipod rearward for a match to deal with a particular prop.
 
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If you don't have full length pic rail and have the want or need to reposition it look at the KDG stuff:


One caveat though, the tiny screws that hold it together need a drop of blue or purple loctite. They will vibrate apart in short order otherwise.
This length has never withstood recoil with a bipod for me. I needed the longer version. I'm not very impressed with this product other than ease of moving/removing. For me it's a stop gap until a proper solution is found.
 
I will give you my recent experience having had it out further with a RPR I never knew what a big deal it was until I put my Bighorn into a Bravo. Could never get the wobble out with much shorter bipod mounting option. Bought a Spigot XL and poof back to stable-n-able. Spigot mounts ~8" past where Bravo furthest mounting was capable of and I'm thrilled.
 
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I modified my chassis to get the bipod further out.
That 4+” was notable in stability with the 338.
5ED3840D-5481-4E9C-99DA-9B092D841EB9.jpeg
 
This comes down to a math equation.

When you drop (vertical movement due to recoil) at the butt end of the stock when you fire, the angle that the rifle shifts during the shot is determined by how far the drop is from the pivot point (fulcrum). The farther out it is, the smaller the angle for the same amount of drop.

Additionally, if you look at the mechanics involved, look at where @Steel head has his bipod mounted. How much past the center of gravity of the rifle is it? Quite a bit. Where the weight of the rifle acts against the recoil is well back from the fulcrum, meaning that the recoil has much more work to do to move the rifle during the shot, which means less vertical.

I've got an Accuracy Solutions extension and I can definitively see the difference when using it. My only beef with it is that it's a pain to adjust the bipod - I rarely use it.
 
I will give you my recent experience having had it out further with a RPR I never knew what a big deal it was until I put my Bighorn into a Bravo. Could never get the wobble out with much shorter bipod mounting option. Bought a Spigot XL and poof back to stable-n-able. Spigot mounts ~8" past where Bravo furthest mounting was capable of and I'm thrilled.
First time I've been aware of these, pretty interesting. And the extension does or does not touch the barrel? Thanks!
 
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I will give you my recent experience having had it out further with a RPR I never knew what a big deal it was until I put my Bighorn into a Bravo. Could never get the wobble out with much shorter bipod mounting option. Bought a Spigot XL and poof back to stable-n-able. Spigot mounts ~8" past where Bravo furthest mounting was capable of and I'm thrilled.
Yeah spigot is the way to go, but not always. You need multiple options

I do both (one is a quick release). That’s just me. Mostly spigot
 
Found this on the internet. Looks really stable. Probably stays on target well so you can see trace and splash.
 

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The bipod should be at least 4-6 inches in front or your balance point of the rifle. I generally balance the rifle at 1 inch in front of the action but with long barrels more weight is added to the rear to correct the balance. This prevents lifting of the rear of the rifle upon firing and if it is not right and the balance point is way forward near your bipod you can have excessive vertical dispersion as a result.

Tim in Tx
 
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Rifles like these are beyond my pay grade.

But I always think mounting the bipods should be as far out the handguard as possible.

And not that they're expensive at all, but I prefer the two piece bipods, mounted individually to either side of the handguard. More stability, which works fine for target shooting, it not so well for tac shooting.