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Suppressors Disposing of the DIP Solution

I have a hard time truly grasping what shooting-related thing you could ever do to get lead poising that bad, particularly being that young.

Huffing molten lead fumes or shooting a shit-ton of cast lead bullets indoor without ventilation are about it, and you would have to be professional-grade stupid to do either.
I wouldn't put it past some people on here, however that would be a very extreme exposure from normal shooting.

Not saying it's the same case, but I had a roommate who flunked most of his engineering classes freshman year and told everyone he needed to drop out for medical/personal reasons. I know this wasn't the case because I was there when he received the email from his college kicking him out of the program.
 
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After referencing this thread in another more recent one, I was reminded I never did post my results with the inconel and stellite.

results: inconel doesn't much care, stellite definitely does. Cerakote goes "poof"

get a bore-tech lance or something similar and use high pressure water for mechanical cleaning.
 
As someone who just got approved for 2 cans I'm curious about this thread. Both of mine can be broken down. I'd just planned on tumbling in a wet tumbler with SS pins, Dawn, and maybe some lemishine. This would not be adequate if I was directly tumbling the baffles?
 
I did not see the end of this thread. The thing with the zinc is very interesting. I'm wondering if the Pb(C2H3O2)2. is actually chemically reacting with the zinc so it's no longer water soluble? Is it somehow stripping off the oxygen @Mwalex ? The lead molecules and Pb based compounds will not evaporate before the liquid boils off, so unless you're an alchemist rather than a chemist mild heat will get rid of the liquid and turn it into a solid (powder). Does this eliminate hazmat or prevent it from being water soluble? No, it's still just sugar of lead and still poison and still water soluble, but I'd rather have an envelope of lead oxide than a jar of lead acetate to get rid of.

What to do after that? I would think it would be easier to add sulphuric acid to a powder to make lead sulfate than trying to do it to a solution of lead acetate. But again, why would you see a chemical solution when heat works?

This is an interesting process of harvesting the lead acetate in batteries to reuse them in solar cells:https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2211285519310948

If you have a crucible (or even a beaker on a burner or a steel ladle) you can heat lead oxide till it releases the oxygen and reverts back to pure lead. Then you can throw it in your Lee pot and make boolets out of boolets.
 
Question for the chemist. I won’t mess with the DIP to remove lead deposits.

However, I’ve boiled some rimfire baffles in vinegar for about 30-45 minutes then let them cool. All this is accomplished outside.

I pour the vinegar and baffles through a strainer in the backyard.

What’s left on the baffles is an off-white to light gray powder.

I either remove that powdery substance with paper towels while wearing PPE or tumbling.

Can you tell us what that powdery substance left on the baffles is? Am I still safe?
I am sorry for not seeing this a LONG time ago. Vinegar is pretty safe itself as far as acids go. The powdery substance is probably an acetate salt of some kind and it will depend on the residue left on the baffle. You should be fine as long as you don't snort the powder or lick your fingers afterwards.
 
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I did not see the end of this thread. The thing with the zinc is very interesting. I'm wondering if the Pb(C2H3O2)2. is actually chemically reacting with the zinc so it's no longer water soluble? Is it somehow stripping off the oxygen @Mwalex ? The lead molecules and Pb based compounds will not evaporate before the liquid boils off, so unless you're an alchemist rather than a chemist mild heat will get rid of the liquid and turn it into a solid (powder). Does this eliminate hazmat or prevent it from being water soluble? No, it's still just sugar of lead and still poison and still water soluble, but I'd rather have an envelope of lead oxide than a jar of lead acetate to get rid of.

What to do after that? I would think it would be easier to add sulphuric acid to a powder to make lead sulfate than trying to do it to a solution of lead acetate. But again, why would you see a chemical solution when heat works?

This is an interesting process of harvesting the lead acetate in batteries to reuse them in solar cells:https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2211285519310948

If you have a crucible (or even a beaker on a burner or a steel ladle) you can heat lead oxide till it releases the oxygen and reverts back to pure lead. Then you can throw it in your Lee pot and make boolets out of boolets.
Zinc tends to be more reactive than lead, so adding zinc to lead acetate should for zinc acetate plus lead. If this reaction occurs in water you might end up with lead oxide or hydroxide.
 
Just get some Bore Tech Decimator. I've been soaking all of my brakes, muzzle adapters, etc... in the same pill bottle of part A solution for weeks and it's still softening carbon like a champ. Carbon gets soft like dried toothpaste and can easily be taken off easily with a plastic bristled brush. It's a bit pricy, but it can be re-used. Far better than having to deal with lead acetate!
 
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As someone who just got approved for 2 cans I'm curious about this thread. Both of mine can be broken down. I'd just planned on tumbling in a wet tumbler with SS pins, Dawn, and maybe some lemishine. This would not be adequate if I was directly tumbling the baffles?
I have a couple cans like that too.

Here’s my short cleaning explanation with a link to the long version.
 
Appreciate all the info here by brains smarter than mine.
An FYI for anyone worried about doing these processes safely, many manufacturers will clean your can for a nominal fee. The cleaning process shouldn’t scare anyone away from can ownership or use.
 
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Appreciate all the info here by brains smarter than mine.
An FYI for anyone worried about doing these processes safely, many manufacturers will clean your can for a nominal fee. The cleaning process shouldn’t scare anyone away from can ownership or use.
many gunsmiths will as well while you wait, depending on how busy they are
 
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Is there a "sticky" thread that covers the cleaning methods and processes, the materials and tools needed, and the effects on the various materials? (Ti, 17-4 Stainless, Inconel, Cobalt, etc).

Seems like a lot of relatively specialized knowledge, cleaning materials and tools are needed to insure I dont screw up my can, or myself or family, if I want to clean it myself.

Any "one stop shopping" for that?
 
Is there a "sticky" thread that covers the cleaning methods and processes, the materials and tools needed, and the effects on the various materials? (Ti, 17-4 Stainless, Inconel, Cobalt, etc).

Seems like a lot of relatively specialized knowledge, cleaning materials and tools are needed to insure I dont screw up my can, or myself or family, if I want to clean it myself.

Any "one stop shopping" for that?
I don’t know of one. Thanks for taking this on! 🤩👏👏👏🙌 🫶



Lol sorry man, had to do it!
 
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