In short, what's the best next step to improve consistency in my ammo? Anneal? Better powder measure? Something else?
buy books from Bryan Litz and stop asking loosers.
spending money for shiny new toys will not get you where you want !
In short, what's the best next step to improve consistency in my ammo? Anneal? Better powder measure? Something else?
You can buy the Vermonts on Amazon.Vermont Gauge carried by Travers. ZZ class. Just get the SS ones and not the Black Guard. They run about $4.75 and come in increments of .0005. They are sold as + or - which I generally understand has to do with the direction of the resulting tolerance (but I may be wrong about this). Get all of one type or the other. I went w plus and for our application I don’t think it makes a tinkers damn either way.
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Since I am targeting a neck tension of .002 for my bolt gun and .003 to .004 for my gas guns, I suppose I should get bullet diameter less .004 down to diameter less .001. So for a 6.5, this would translate into .2655 to .2600. Is that right? Or would fewer increments do the job?You can buy the Vermonts on Amazon.
I would go from 0.0015 to 0.004 in 0.0005 increments. A 6.5mm bullet is .264 so I would go from .2625 to 0.260.Since I am targeting a neck tension of .002 for my bolt gun and .003 to .004 for my gas guns, I suppose I should get bullet diameter less .004 down to diameter less .001. So for a 6.5, this would translate into .2655 to .2600. Is that right? Or would fewer
Well, right you are...and 50 cents cheaper per gauge.You can buy the Vermonts on Amazon.
No difference in really in full length die. I just use the expander button in the full length die. It is one less stroke of the press handle.Is there any difference between having the neck sized in a FL die or in a Whidden or Redding FL die with a neck bushing other than the bushing size compared to the FL default?
Do you run a mandrel into the neck or just use the default neck tension in your FL die? Do you dry lube the necks before charging and seating?
Compared to my ancient Chargemaster 1500, that's pricey gear. Could you get your same group sizes with a less expensive powder measure?
Me too.
The bolt gun I will start shooting at local matches next year is an MPA PMR in 6 GT. Super easy load development. 3/8" to 1/2" groups from a bench. Mostly 1 MOA from position practice. Sometimes a lot worse when I'm running a practice on the clock.
Given the NAMMO announcement this month, I doubt we will see Lapua jump into either 6 GT or 6 ARC soon, and Alpha still does not do 6 ARC. In the meantime, I have 400 GAP cases for the GT - no problems so far EXCEPT on the initial firing. Alpha on my next batch. I'm on the 6th reload for the 6 ARC brass which all came from factory loaded ammo. I may need to form from Lapua 6.5 Grendel IF I can find any. I just hope Hornady releases some 6 ARC brass to the market next quarter.
I use Berger 105s, 108s, and 109s depending on what I can scrounge. Most of my 65 CM has been 140 ELD-M simply because of availability. But group size is between .6 and 1.2 in an LR308 gas gun. No complaints.
That makes lot of sense. What glass do you run on the trainers? Same as your 6 Dasher? Are the trainers standard bolt guns or custom rifles with the same trigger as your Dasher?
I agree with buying the best annealer you can afford. I decided to build this one to see for myself, the benefits of annealing. Kits and plans are availavle on the internet. The plans, diagrams and templates as well as 3D printed components for this one came from Etsy. The remainder of the components came from Amazon and Home Depot. It took me a day to build and was well worth the effort. After converting 6.5 Creedmoor to 8.6 Blackout, I am sold!Oh BTW ... annealing probably comes before any tools for seating force measurement. I consider the "Annealing" step to be mandatory. Go buy an AMP ... and skip the whole "propane mess".