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Rifle Scopes March FFP 1.5-15x42 MPVO Review and Comparison (w/ Nightforce and Athlon)

This was helpful, as some dubiousness still attends the March 1.5-15. Does the scope focus/parallax at least to ten yards? Thanks. F7
It does indeed, focusses easily to 30 feet, maybe even a little closer, I can take it out and let you know just how close if you'd like.
 
That's nice to hear. If you have a chance, at your convenience, I would appreciate it. Thanks. F7
Faith, at 5x I was able to get a fairly sharp image at 16'9" from the front objective, image was parallax free as well; however, above 6x and the image gets pretty blurry so if you are okay <=6x then you can focus to 5 meters, but above 6x and you're distance is going to be further out. If you'd like specific limitation at a specific magnification just let me know.
 
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I guess I need to ask our Mercury Program aficionado @Faith7 exactly how close he needs to focus.
 
I guess I need to ask our Mercury Program aficionado @Faith7 exactly how close he needs to focus.

He's a fellow airgun shooter so pretty close compared to what most shooters envision, like 10 yards or so, or maybe a few yards closer on occasion. On top of that doing so on max magnification, while in perfect focus, is the cherry on top.
 
Faith, at 5x I was able to get a fairly sharp image at 16'9" from the front objective, image was parallax free as well; however, above 6x and the image gets pretty blurry so if you are okay <=6x then you can focus to 5 meters, but above 6x and you're distance is going to be further out. If you'd like specific limitation at a specific magnification just let me know.
Since you were nice enough to ask, what does 10 to 12x look like at 25 feet or so? And thanks a ton for what you have done so far, Glass. F7
 
I guess I need to ask our Mercury Program aficionado @Faith7 exactly how close he needs to focus.
Denys, as Steve123 notes, 10 yards and even better at top magnification (or close to it) is optimal for an airgunner. Some of this proximity becomes more of a pleasure and benefit than a mandatory need in certain contexts. With indoor targets, closer and closer is more necessary than with outdoor pesting, as for the latter a sufficient sight picture can be had without optimal clarity. When in my basement (especially during the winter or at night), which limits my distance, I can shoot a 700mm barrel with a rather long suppressor at 25 feet, and a bit more if I move things around diagonally. Down there I can still get by for some things with a different rig and a scope with a 15-yard parallax, but at higher power it breaks down. I am able to get groups at this very close range of perhaps under a millimeter, so seeing well is mandatory. My older eyes mean that I need at least 8 or 10x to really bear down and be comfortable.
Now all of this is like talking Frosted Flakes to a competing bodybuilder, but to an airgun user it is often standard concern.
Thanks! F7
 
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He's a fellow airgun shooter so pretty close compared to what most shooters envision, like 10 yards or so, or maybe a few yards closer on occasion. On top of that doing so on max magnification, while in perfect focus, is the cherry on top.
You got it, Steve! Thanks. F7
 
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Does anyone have a high round-count on an AR-10 with one of these?

I’m looking at them for installing on some of my 14.5”, 16”, and 18” Grendels.

My eyes are older now and I realize that I was very blessed for about 42 years.
 
"The Athlon Helos BTR II 2-12x is as good or slightly better at 12x than this March at 12x."

Yikes !
 
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"The Athlon Helos BTR II 2-12x is as good or slightly better at 12x than this March at 12x."

Yikes !
I find that hard to believe. The Athlon is a great scope for @ $500.00. but I can't imagine how it would be comparable to this or any other March. If it's truly that way, it needs to be sent back for inspection/repair.
 
2). The reticle is thick enough, with enough hashes, dots, and numbers that I lost the impact once- that is not normal for me. The reticle is a bit too thick. At 15x it’s fine, but 15x is too much mag for spotting your own shots with rifles that recoil. 8-12x is good for that and the range I was shooting, but the reticle gets pretty thick due SFP. Probably no issues for hunting, but for trueing velocity on a target between two trees with a 6’ish foot gap- not ideal.
What scope was he evaluating? I thought the March 1.5-15x42 was FFP. The reticle images on different power setting show different sizes, so something it weird or a typo.
 
In some ways if true it’s good news for my wallet. More money for NVG larping
 
"The Athlon Helos BTR II 2-12x is as good or slightly better at 12x than this March at 12x."

Yikes !
That was close to my initial evaluation, but high magnification range scopes tend to take extra special effort to set the diopter correctly and the March 1.5-15 definitely needs more finesse to set right, once I did that it definitely showed up against the Athlon.
 
I’m in a place where I have been able to get away with 2.5-10x medium power scopes, as well as 1-4x, 1-6x, 1-8x, and 1-10x LPVOs due to exceptional eyesight. I have higher power large scopes for LR/ELR, but I’m not mounting them on 12” - 18” barrel 6.5 Grendels.

That exceptional eyesight is gone now, so I’m looking for something as close to compact as the smaller LPVOs, but with more magnification and great glass quality.

I’m wondering if I will benefit significantly from the 1.5-15x42 March. I don’t use LPVOs on 1x, but on 75-100% of their top end doing LR shooting. My main preference towards LPVOs is how compact they are, not how I might be able to use them as an RDS, though that feature is basically looked at for emergency use.

I want a little more magnification to resolve targets better and to see impacts better. This 1.5-15x42 seems promising in that respect.
 
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Bought one of these based on this review, couldn't be happier with the purchase, it's everything I was looking for.
 
"The Athlon Helos BTR II 2-12x is as good or slightly better at 12x than this March at 12x."

Yikes !

My Athlon HG2 2-12 has noticeably nicer IQ on 10x and 12x compared to my March DFP 1-10 on 10x. The only reasons I can think of are it's so compact and its a 10 ratio.

Quality wise as far as controls the March is superior of course, DFP is a neat feature, I like the daylight bright illume, and it has a side focus. I need 1x on this short AR as well. Enough positives I kept it.

I had a March 5-42 I wasn't satisfied with, also a 3-24, both some optical weirdness going on with my eyes, ended up selling them, so I'm not risking getting the 1.5-15.

Just mentioning that the optics in my March Genesis are excellent. Always optically centered might be partially why??
 
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What ranges do you have access to and did you mount on a gas gun?
regular: 50-200
special days when I want to make the trek: 500 or out to 1000+

Mounted mine to a .308 DT MDRX with a 20" barrel, using a badger condition one 34mm 1.54" 20moa mount

have yet to make the 1000yard range with it, but went down to delmarva on the 500 there and had a great time.


Project for today is to swap it for the one with the FML-4 reticle I just got from @TikkaVortexFan , since I think the FML-4 is much better suited to my 2GACM needs where I'm often using mid power to engage targets and not using the extreme distance as much.

one of the nice features about it is the short length, which leaves enough rail space on the bullpup for a clip-on when I borrow one for pig and critter hunting and buy one down the road.

IMG_6069.jpg
IMG_6069.jpg


Picture above was taken before I had the 4T-Pro, so the canted holosun was still on the MDRX, it's since been moved to the AR
 
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HI

I have the March 1.5-15x42 and YES you can shoot with both eyes open at 1.5.

As previously mentioned, the scope needs fine diopter adjustment and fine parallax adjustment >x12. I can adjust the parallax at 4 to 5m x15 magnification

It has crystal-clear clarity at x15 and good twilight clarity thanks to the 42mm objective (a big difference from LOPVO 24mm).

It is true that there is some distortion at the edges, but it does not affect the overall quality of the image, nor does it interfere with aiming.

Perfect tracking (tested up to 600m - 50 Click Up) - perfect RTZ every time

The only QR mount I've found compatible is the Tier-One QD cantilever mount - tried first by QRW2 Leupold, but strangely it doesn't resist recoil after 3 to 5 shots. I switched to One Tier and all was well.

For me, it's the perfect scope for battue hunting, sport hunting and stalking, ambush or mountain hunting, medium-range shooting and tactical shooting.

I pair it with my Tikka CTR and love this deadly accurate combination.

For me, this beast has no competitor on the market.
 

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HI

I have the March 1.5-15x42 and YES you can shoot with both eyes open at 1.5.

As previously mentioned, the scope needs fine diopter adjustment and fine parallax adjustment >x12. I can adjust the parallax at 4 to 5m x15 magnification

It has crystal-clear clarity at x15 and good twilight clarity thanks to the 42mm objective (a big difference from LOPVO 24mm).

It is true that there is some distortion at the edges, but it does not affect the overall quality of the image, nor does it interfere with aiming.

Perfect tracking (tested up to 600m - 50 Click Up) - perfect RTZ every time

The only QR mount I've found compatible is the Tier-One QD cantilever mount - tried first by QRW2 Leupold, but strangely it doesn't resist recoil after 3 to 5 shots. I switched to One Tier and all was well.

For me, it's the perfect scope for battue hunting, sport hunting and stalking, ambush or mountain hunting, medium-range shooting and tactical shooting.

I pair it with my Tikka CTR and love this deadly accurate combination.

For me, this beast has no competitor on the market.
Which reticle did you settle on?
 
My SFP model: https://marchscopes.com/scopes/d15v42timl/

I'm glad I didn't choose the new dual 34mm model to :
- remain as light and ergonomic as possible
- avoid the slight offset between SFP and FFP on the dual reticle as reported in some threads
- avoid useless Shuriken lock, as the tactical turret never move on its own, I'm also able to check the numbers on the turrets without glasses despite declining eyes and this was an important point for me.

I have the FP-2 reticle but would recommend the FP-1 over the FP-2 for a hunting machine as the FP-2 is a bit too thick compared to Zeiss 60 or Leupold Duplex.
 

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Have to chime in. Have a 1-10x Shorty. Size and features are incredible, but optics underwhelmed. Scope sat unused for over a year. Saw the posts about proper diopter and proceeded to follow the instructions.

It’s a new scope. I’m in love all over again.

View attachment 8423932
What in particular did you do differently than you’d done previously…?
 
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Have to chime in. Have a 1-10x Shorty. Size and features are incredible, but optics underwhelmed. Scope sat unused for over a year. Saw the posts about proper diopter and proceeded to follow the instructions.

It’s a new scope. I’m in love all over again.

View attachment 8423932
I wonder what the FX Shorty 1-10 is like (with the 34 solid tube) and Shuriken turrets? The FFP model (not dual) has an interesting reticle in the FMC-3, typically I go for tree style reticles but the simplicity of the FMC-3 with the 3 MIL circle could prove both useful at low magnification also helps recognize whole MILS 1-6. I am also curious if you can run a standard mount on it because of it being 34mm only.

 
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I wonder what the FX Shorty 1-10 is like (with the 34 solid tube) and Shuriken turrets? The FFP model (not dual) has an interesting reticle in the FMC-3, typically I go for tree style reticles but the simplicity of the FMC-3 with the 3 MIL circle could prove both useful at low magnification also helps recognize whole MILS 1-6. I am also curious if you can run a standard mount on it because of it being 34mm only.

I just brought a couple in. I'm planning to do a video on them. They are in fact incredible. This has now become my favorite optic. I also have Gen3 1-10 as well as a wide range of NF. The reticle and eybox really click for me. I can pretty much run it just like a RDS at 1x and at 10x it easily gets me to 800 on a 10" plate. The weight and balance keep the front of the rifle light and nimble.
 
I just brought a couple in. I'm planning to do a video on them. They are in fact incredible. This has now become my favorite optic. I also have Gen3 1-10 as well as a wide range of NF. The reticle and eybox really click for me. I can pretty much run it just like a RDS at 1x and at 10x it easily gets me to 800 on a 10" plate. The weight and balance keep the front of the rifle light and nimble.
Looking forward to it
 
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I wonder what the FX Shorty 1-10 is like (with the 34 solid tube) and Shuriken turrets? The FFP model (not dual) has an interesting reticle in the FMC-3, typically I go for tree style reticles but the simplicity of the FMC-3 with the 3 MIL circle could prove both useful at low magnification also helps recognize whole MILS 1-6. I am also curious if you can run a standard mount on it because of it being 34mm only.

I have a 33/30mm model with the dual focal tree reticle. I have to say the DFP setup is great, I am not sure I would deviate from that if I were to purchase again. It has the best LPVO dot for use as a reflex substitute of any LPVO I have looked through. I am sure the FMC reticles can't compete in this aspect, if this is an important consideration.

I also prefer tree reticles as a general rule, likely because I do a lot of precision long range. I waited to make the purchase until March came out with the tree DR-TR1F reticle. But after using this for a while, I am not sure that I see much value in the tree, at least not how I use it. It has been on a 14.5" 5.56 Run n Gun carbine, and I can honestly say I have never had much use for the tree, certainly nothing that I couldn't do with a Kentucky hold on a non-tree. I don't guess there is any real disadvantage to the tree, but I wouldn't pass up a deal on a non-tree.

I also agree that the FMC-3 looks to be a solid reticle. I have considered a 1-8x non-shorty with this reticle. This scope has many of the things I like about the 1-10x shorty, like side focus and under 20oz, but without the optical sacrifices of the short body. If March made this with the DFP, I would have one already.
 
I have a 33/30mm model with the dual focal tree reticle. I have to say the DFP setup is great, I am not sure I would deviate from that if I were to purchase again. It has the best LPVO dot for use as a reflex substitute of any LPVO I have looked through. I am sure the FMC reticles can't compete in this aspect, if this is an important consideration.

I also prefer tree reticles as a general rule, likely because I do a lot of precision long range. I waited to make the purchase until March came out with the tree DR-TR1F reticle. But after using this for a while, I am not sure that I see much value in the tree, at least not how I use it. It has been on a 14.5" 5.56 Run n Gun carbine, and I can honestly say I have never had much use for the tree, certainly nothing that I couldn't do with a Kentucky hold on a non-tree. I don't guess there is any real disadvantage to the tree, but I wouldn't pass up a deal on a non-tree.

I also agree that the FMC-3 looks to be a solid reticle. I have considered a 1-8x non-shorty with this reticle. This scope has many of the things I like about the 1-10x shorty, like side focus and under 20oz, but without the optical sacrifices of the short body. If March made this with the DFP, I would have one already.
This is pretty much exactly the use case that I would use it for. I shoot a lot of Run and Guns as well and I've owned pretty much every significant lpvo on the market. As you mentioned, in a time is of the essence situation, the tree, if not done right, frankly is a bit slow.

We typically only engage max out to 600 yd. At 600 yards, the vast majority my shots will have no more than 1-1.5 mil of windage and that's with my slow 13.7" carbine running 73 grain ELD-M at about 2370fps...its only a 4 mph gun.

A lot of lpvos have 5-6 mils on windage at 6 mils of elevation which means the numbers for elevation are located far away from the eye. So I'm constantly scanning to the right to make sure I'm on the correct elevation then scanning back left to my hold and target. I can for sure Kentucky windage 1.5 MILs a lot faster if the vertical is numbered right down the center.

It's one reason why I really like the way ZCO has done their reticles in the upcoming 2-10. But in my mind they've always been possibly the best at creating fast usable reticles.
 
This is pretty much exactly the use case that I would use it for. I shoot a lot of Run and Guns as well and I've owned pretty much every significant lpvo on the market. As you mentioned, in a time is of the essence situation, the tree, if not done right, frankly is a bit slow.

We typically only engage max out to 600 yd. At 600 yards, the vast majority my shots will have no more than 1-1.5 mil of windage and that's with my slow 13.7" carbine running 73 grain ELD-M at about 2370fps...its only a 4 mph gun.

A lot of lpvos have 5-6 mils on windage at 6 mils of elevation which means the numbers for elevation are located far away from the eye. So I'm constantly scanning to the right to make sure I'm on the correct elevation then scanning back left to my hold and target. I can for sure Kentucky windage 1.5 MILs a lot faster if the vertical is numbered right down the center.

It's one reason why I really like the way ZCO has done their reticles in the upcoming 2-10. But in my mind they've always been possibly the best at creating fast usable reticles.
I am not sure that having the numbers out on the edge of the tree is an issue for me. I never really thought about it before. The non-tree DFP March reticle has numbers down the middle, and the 5 mil horizontal is 3mil wide, or 1.5 mil in each direction. This provides an easy reference point to estimate wind holds with sufficient accuracy for RnG shooting.

I am also now experimenting with a 45 degree offset dot. I know some people struggle with twisting the rifle in their shoulder for this, but I find it to be no sacrifice whatsoever. If I find this works for me, it makes an LPVO basically pointless. I will need to at least consider having a bit better scope magnification for long range and use the offset dot for close. The only disadvantage to this is that I can't use the offset dot from both shoulders. And the March 1-10x is really really light. There is no scope with more mag that will not bring with it a significant weight penalty. The 1-15x March might be the best for for this combo.
 
I am not sure that having the numbers out on the edge of the tree is an issue for me. I never really thought about it before. The non-tree DFP March reticle has numbers down the middle, and the 5 mil horizontal is 3mil wide, or 1.5 mil in each direction. This provides an easy reference point to estimate wind holds with sufficient accuracy for RnG shooting.

I am also now experimenting with a 45 degree offset dot. I know some people struggle with twisting the rifle in their shoulder for this, but I find it to be no sacrifice whatsoever. If I find this works for me, it makes an LPVO basically pointless. I will need to at least consider having a bit better scope magnification for long range and use the offset dot for close. The only disadvantage to this is that I can't use the offset dot from both shoulders. And the March 1-10x is really really light. There is no scope with more mag that will not bring with it a significant weight penalty. The 1-15x March might be the best for for this combo.
I use a piggybacked red dot on all my LPVOs so I really don't sweat the view or illumination of the LPVO on the low end. I use the dot for that.
 
I use a piggybacked red dot on all my LPVOs so I really don't sweat the view or illumination of the LPVO on the low end. I use the dot for that.
I guess my statements were a long-winded way of saying I am migrating to the same conclusion/solution.
 
I recently bought and returned the FFP FMC2 1-10 (34mm tube) and didn't like the illumination as compared to the peer Vortex and NF I have. I was reminded here that the illumination on the DFP is better, and so ordered that.

I mounted and zeroed it yesterday. So my usage is still limited, but here are my impressions...

To my eyes, I think the illumination is still less bright than the V or NF; on the brightest setting, those are visible looking at the ski on a sunny day while the March isn't, but then, of course, the black of the reticle is very visible (it's possible some of that is attributable to the NF and V scopes having more parts of the reticle that are lit, and so appear brighter...?).

The reticle is useable without the illumination. This is true for the NF and for the V, though its "T" is smaller than the NF.

While I have an offset RDS, trying the March is still a shift away from my preference for "very" bright illumination.

The bezel on the March disappears much better than the NX8, better than the ATACR but maybe not quite as well as the G3, though most of my A/B basement testing was with the NX8, which was the one being replaced.

It has the size of the NX8, but the heft/ presence of the ATACR. Not a bad mix of traits.

The turrets are large, not in the best way if you're not using them. But, the lock system is good, the clicks are *very* good and the zero stop is stupid easy.

It came with scope caps and a fine but now cool throw lever. Getting the caps is like getting all weather mats thrown in for your new car. Is it a big deal? no; it's easy to buy them after. But it just seems like it should be standard.
 
I recently bought and returned the FFP FMC2 1-10 (34mm tube) and didn't like the illumination as compared to the peer Vortex and NF I have. I was reminded here that the illumination on the DFP is better, and so ordered that.

I mounted and zeroed it yesterday. So my usage is still limited, but here are my impressions...

To my eyes, I think the illumination is still less bright than the V or NF; on the brightest setting, those are visible looking at the ski on a sunny day while the March isn't, but then, of course, the black of the reticle is very visible (it's possible some of that is attributable to the NF and V scopes having more parts of the reticle that are lit, and so appear brighter...?).

The reticle is useable without the illumination. This is true for the NF and for the V, though its "T" is smaller than the NF.

While I have an offset RDS, trying the March is still a shift away from my preference for "very" bright illumination.

The bezel on the March disappears much better than the NX8, better than the ATACR but maybe not quite as well as the G3, though most of my A/B basement testing was with the NX8, which was the one being replaced.

It has the size of the NX8, but the heft/ presence of the ATACR. Not a bad mix of traits.

The turrets are large, not in the best way if you're not using them. But, the lock system is good, the clicks are *very* good and the zero stop is stupid easy.

It came with scope caps and a fine but now cool throw lever. Getting the caps is like getting all weather mats thrown in for your new car. Is it a big deal? no; it's easy to buy them after. But it just seems like it should be standard.
Interesting note re. the illumination… I was also rather disappointed with the illumination in the DFP 1.5 -15, definitely not as bright as expected for illumination in the 2nd focal plane. Was expecting it to be at least as bright as my Mk 6 1-6; it is not ☹️.
 
Interesting note re. the illumination… I was also rather disappointed with the illumination in the DFP 1.5 -15, definitely not as bright as expected for illumination in the 2nd focal plane. Was expecting it to be at least as bright as my Mk 6 1-6; it is not ☹️.
I see varying opinions on the DFP brightness. My 1-10X is plenty bright for me. Now whether that is because that is how my eyes perceive it, or if there is some variation across scopes, I don't know. Or maybe I just don't know what others consider "bright".

I do recall somewhere, maybe the March website, that they have 2 different ranges of brightness scale available for at least some of the scopes. I wonder if that has some effect on the situation.
 
Interesting note re. the illumination… I was also rather disappointed with the illumination in the DFP 1.5 -15, definitely not as bright as expected for illumination in the 2nd focal plane. Was expecting it to be at least as bright as my Mk 6 1-6; it is not ☹️.
I agree; I wasn't as happy with the DFP 1.5-15's max brightness either, but decided--especially with an offset RDS--that it since it's not really being used as such, I'd (arm to forehead, woe is me) survive. It's a cool scope in its own respect.

The 1-10's max setting--and this is swinging the rifle across dark and light interior space and then to a window that is majority woods but with some sun spots and clear sky--is good for most of the low or indirect light and well-lit-but-not bright white/ light surface, and then the black cross works on the very brightly lit and/ or very light colored surfaces.

I *want* the NF/ Vortex/ S&B brightness but will try the March. (I don't have experience with the Mk 6) It does have some other advantages that may make the sacrifice acceptable.... until a butterfly flaps its wings over the Pacific and I decide to switch again.🤷🏻‍♂️

When I have a few minutes, I'll compare the 1-10 and 1.5-15 and the other brands a bit more.