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OpenTrickler for DIY users

eamars

Private
Minuteman
Nov 11, 2019
55
92
New Zealand
Hello All
I'd like to share my open source powder trickler system the OpenTrickler
Inspired by the AutoTrickler v4 and Super Trickler, the OpenTrickler is designed be printed and assembled using garden tools.

Currently the OpenTrickler supports the following precision scales
  • A&D FX-120/300 series
  • G&G JJ100B series
To build the OpenTrickler you will need
  • A functional 3D printer with minimum 200mm3 build volumn.
  • Basic electronics experience and skills, including soldering and identifying basic components.
render.PNG


Basic function demos
Powder charge


Powder discharge
 
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This is epic and awesome of you to share. What would you say the cost is for all purchased components?
Everything except for PCB can be purchased from Aliexpress for less than $50. If you can find 5 buddies and share the PCB fabrication feed then each fully populated board costs around $15.

For printed part I'm expecting you to use less than 1kg of filament which is around $15-$20 depending on the type of the filament.

Of course you need to supply the scale which costs heaps. And a 3d printer if you don't have one already.
 
I knew I'd eventually find something to make with a pico. Always eager to learn a new skillset. I've been looking for some electromechanical device that holds my interest.

Thank you, very much.
 
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I've started to build one of these to run on a GG J100B scale. I have a FX120i I can use for comparison sake as well.
Everything is printed at essentially factory settings on a Bambu X1 Carbon from ABS. Everything fits perfectly so far.
Ignore the short hopper, that was just a test print.

CTqLmpj.jpg


Here is the price list for everything I ordered. The PCB boards were $150 for the minimum quantity of 5 but I split it with some buddies.

j8QY5sn.jpg
 
I've started to build one of these to run on a GG J100B scale. I have a FX120i I can use for comparison sake as well.
Everything is printed at essentially factory settings on a Bambu X1 Carbon from ABS. Everything fits perfectly so far.
Ignore the short hopper, that was just a test print.

CTqLmpj.jpg


Here is the price list for everything I ordered. The PCB boards were $150 for the minimum quantity of 5 but I split it with some buddies.

j8QY5sn.jpg
Here is my price for 10x PCBA
1710193174636.png

The average price per board is around $10 to $15 depending on your location.
 
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maybe a dumb question, would there be a way to use this design with the bulk dropper and the IP trickler, using the autotrickler controller/software?

I have a Autotrickler V4 and IP trickler so will be able to test a lot of different configurations like this once mine is completed. I will also have a FX120i and GG J100b scale so any combos you want to see tested I can likely facilitate.

I also may work with @eamars to get the Open Trickler working on the Creedmoor Sports scale which has been gaining popularity.
 
Nice! I have been meaning to get back to mine.

I want to build mine where it can drop powder onto the Dillon 550 or have a shell holder carousel so you can put an empty shell in and not touch it again till it's loaded.

I'm just using a ESP-32 S3 on mine. I have thought about going to a raspberry pi so I could have a fancy screen and easier memory retention
 
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Hello from Germany.
I have already built several opentricklers for myself and my hunting buddies. We love this little machine. It works great. But one thing is still not entirely clear to me. I don't understand all the values for the powder profiles yet. Some are self-explanatory, but not all. Is there a list where I can see which value does what exactly? I can't find anything about it in the building instructions.
 
Hello from Germany.
I have already built several opentricklers for myself and my hunting buddies. We love this little machine. It works great. But one thing is still not entirely clear to me. I don't understand all the values for the powder profiles yet. Some are self-explanatory, but not all. Is there a list where I can see which value does what exactly? I can't find anything about it in the building instructions.
Hi

The OpenTrickler controller is designed around the PID controller. I suggest the manual tuning at this stage. You should be able to find the purpose of each parameter according to the table below:
1723265931581.png


Please make sure Ki is 0 at all time and tune Kp and Kd to get the optimal response time and minimum overshoot.

Reference: https://www.ctrlaltftc.com/the-pid-controller/tuning-methods-of-a-pid-controller
 
Hi! Thank you for that. That helps me a lot. I also had some issues with the bearing covers. Fine powders such as Vitahvuori N110 and N120 somehow get between the cover and the bearing, even if the bearing cover is printed tighter. The tube then gets stuck. I have removed the bearing covers completely and I am using dust protected bearings. This is working well so far after a few thousand charges. But I don't know, if this will be a problem in the long term.
 
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Hi! Thank you for that. That helps me a lot. I also had some issues with the bearing covers. Fine powders such as Vitahvuori N110 and N120 somehow get between the cover and the bearing, even if the bearing cover is printed tighter. The tube then gets stuck. I have removed the bearing covers completely and I am using dust protected bearings. This is working well so far after a few thousand charges. But I don't know, if this will be a problem in the long term.
I had the same issues until I printed and started using the volume reducing inserts. They can be found in the Dirtbit folder of the Community Contributions.

 
Discord link is in the GitHub link in the first post
I'd love to. Do you have a link that you can share?
The address is below:


I'd be interested as well.

FYI you will be able to purchase the board from Aliexpress after 7 Oct. The instructions will be given on discord soon.
Also you might be able to find someone could spare a board with you around the area you live on discord.
 
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Hey guys!
I'm currently working on another trickler for a friend. I'd like to do something different with the housing this time. I'd be interested to know how you place the controller board, power supply and display. So far I've put the controller board and the power supply in one housing on the side of the hopper and the 12864 on the front right of the plate in front of the hopper. I got the housing for the 12864 from thingiverse, but I had to modify it a bit. It works fine, but I'm not completely happy with it though.
I'm talking about the G&G scale version...
 
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Hey guys!
I'm currently working on another trickler for a friend. I'd like to do something different with the housing this time. I'd be interested to know how you place the controller board, power supply and display. So far I've put the controller board and the power supply in one housing on the side of the hopper and the 12864 on the front right of the plate in front of the hopper. I got the housing for the 12864 from thingiverse, but I had to modify it a bit. It works fine, but I'm not completely happy with it though.
I'm talking about the G&G scale version...
In fact it works without the mini 12864 display.. So that's entirely optional except for the first setup.

Unfortunately I never worked on the G&G version so I'm not sure how people would normally mount the display. Perhaps you can join our discord and ask around?
 
Hey guys!
I'm currently working on another trickler for a friend. I'd like to do something different with the housing this time. I'd be interested to know how you place the controller board, power supply and display. So far I've put the controller board and the power supply in one housing on the side of the hopper and the 12864 on the front right of the plate in front of the hopper. I got the housing for the 12864 from thingiverse, but I had to modify it a bit. It works fine, but I'm not completely happy with it though.
I'm talking about the G&G scale version...
I was able to house the board inside the GG base. I also created channels to route the motor cables internally to make for a very clean final product. Paired with a modified version of another users screen mount it made for an extremely clean product with essentially no exposed wiring.
I kept the power supply outside the unit but mounted a DC5521 bulkhead fitting for a seamless connection.
 

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Great work! That looks great. Interested in hearing your use results.
I got it dialed in and it now lives at a shooting buddies house loading all of his PRS ammo. We've been very happy with it.
Only issue we've dealt with is minor clumping in the large tube that can lead to overthrows. Eamars and crew have been working on solutions for that.

Also note that this is an early version without the trap door system. Still capable of throwing 42 grains of H4350 in 14 seconds or less. Not far off the performance of my AT V4 with IP trickler.
 
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I was able to house the board inside the GG base. I also created channels to route the motor cables internally to make for a very clean final product. Paired with a modified version of another users screen mount it made for an extremely clean product with essentially no exposed wiring.
I kept the power supply outside the unit but mounted a DC5521 bulkhead fitting for a seamless connection.
Oh man! Really nice work. Love it! To use the free space in the base didnt come to my mind. Well done. Looks really clean.
 
I was able to house the board inside the GG base. I also created channels to route the motor cables internally to make for a very clean final product. Paired with a modified version of another users screen mount it made for an extremely clean product with essentially no exposed wiring.
I kept the power supply outside the unit but mounted a DC5521 bulkhead fitting for a seamless connection.
Where did you get the mount? I'm currently modifying the inside of the base for the controller board like you did. I hope everything will fit. I can't find a mount like that anywhere. It has to be hollow on the inside for the cable. At least that's what it looks like.