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Question (potentially ignorant) on barrel swaps between two Ruger American Predators (.308 / 6.5cm

estre

Private
Minuteman
Mar 26, 2024
17
15
US
***** EDIT 20240510; NO, the PVA barrel nuts will not work when swapping two Ruger American predators. The barrel diameter is #tooThick ****

(BLUF / TLDR) --- can I switch these two RAP barrels using the bbl nut linked?

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Right Hand Ruger American Predator .308

Left Hand Ruger American Predator 6.5cm

2x of these: https://patriotvalleyarms.com/barrel-nut-tikka-t3-ruger-american-sako-m595/

I already have go / no-go for both calibers

They share the same bolt diameter (check my math please)
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(Longer Story and intent)

God has a sense of humor and decided I am to be left handed and left eye dominant so I very much prefer left handed bolt rifles. Both my kids are right hand right eye dominant with my 9 year old daughter needing her own bolt action deer rifle this coming season. She's killed a few with one my .223 ARs using handloads, but I want my rifle back. I bought the RH .308 RAP for $300 off a buddy and it's simply too much for my daughter with the 180 interlock load. I know I could load the .308 down with lighter bullets and a lower charge but I also have a left hand
RAP in 6.5cm. She isn't bothered at all shooting the 6.5cm.

From my limited knowledge over the past few months lurking the site, I should be able to gorilla break the factory barrel nuts off and swap them 1:1 after headspacing, correct?

Thanks for y'alls time and look forward to learning!

I want her to out-do the boys and handle herself
sMeeBCF.jpg
 
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Yes, with a barrel nut set up you can headspace it to each action just fine. Check headspace with a go gauge.
 
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I would recommend checking with both a GO and NO-GO gauge just to ensure HS is 100% dead-on, but that's just part of my INFJ/OCD/ADD personality. 😂
 
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I would recommend checking with both a GO and NO-GO gauge just to ensure HS is 100% dead-on, but that's just part of my INFJ/OCD/ADD personality. 😂
Plan to. I'm in limbo moving from Tx to Tn. It'll be 6 months before I swap them with all the toys packed.

ETA: I take it back about being 6 months.
 
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I suggest getting this to break the original barrel nut off, not that you are planning on using the original barrel later on, it just makes it easier than using a pipe wrench.

Only thing about this tool is make sure you use gloves. They didn't bother to smooth the edges of the handles so they will cut you without the gloves.

I got one of PVA barrels in 22 creedmoor, converting from a 6mm creedmoor for my predator. The PVA barrels do shoot very well.
 
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I suggest getting this to break the original barrel nut off, not that you are planning on using the original barrel later on, it just makes it easier than using a pipe wrench.

Only thing about this tool is make sure you use gloves. They didn't bother to smooth the edges of the handles so they will cut you without the gloves.

I got one of PVA barrels in 22 creedmoor, converting from a 6mm creedmoor for my predator. The PVA barrels do shoot very well.
Thanks for the tip on the tool.

I decided to order the parts and knock it out early while I still have a garage with a few tools.
 
The stock nut on these is not at bad as it's made out to be. I used a set of Knippex alligator grips, a hammer, and a barrel vise. The trick is to use light impact while man gripping the pliers. Brooke loose in 4-5 hits.

Here's the shitty part. Those PVA barrel nuts aren't going to work. The stock predator barrel width doesn't allow enough forward travel / threading over the barrel to expose the tennon threads for the receiver (pic attached). I don't want to reuse the stock barrel nuts as I have no accurate way of ensuring torque spec. Now the hunt is on for a ruger / tikka barrel nut that will accommodate a barrel diameter 1 1/8 inch some where around 1.1250.
 

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ok, so you are just switching barrels on the 2 guns, my mistake. I thought that you had ordered a PVA barrel as well.

Why not reuse the Ruger barrel nut then?