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When is it time to discard Brass

Rob.308

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 21, 2012
254
2
54
Hiders,

I am wondering when everyone discards their brass. I recently had a round blow back through the primer hole. This of course, damaged
the bolt face. I would like to prevent this from happening again.

My question becomes when does everyone make the call to toss out old brass? How are you decideing to toss it?

Is there a way to tell if the primer pockets are getting worn out before you install a new primer into them?

Thanks in advance for everyone's input.
 
to many variables to give a specific number. How hot are your loads? What cartridge? What brand of brass? How much do you work your brass(neck size shoulder bump vs. full length sizing)??? Do you anneal?
 
.308 brass with FC head stamp. Always full-size the brass, cut to length, deburr and chamfer. I use the RCBS primer pocket "cleaning tool". Looks like a small cutting head for the bottom of the pocket. The loads are fairly mild and 42 Grains of Varget.
 
Federal i load once for my AR and throw away after. Pockets got loose in my bolt gun after 3 firings. I've got more than 10 loadongs on Winchester and Lapua with no problems. I can tell when decapping if the pockets are ok. I use a Lee decapping die, no sizing and if the primer just falls roght out when touched with the pin I toss them.
 
.308 brass with FC head stamp. Always full-size the brass, cut to length, deburr and chamfer. I use the RCBS primer pocket "cleaning tool". Looks like a small cutting head for the bottom of the pocket. The loads are fairly mild and 42 Grains of Varget.

I had a batch blowback around the primer as you describe, I had to toss quite a few pieces but brass is cheaper than bolt heads.
 
When I start seeing an obvious ring near the case web, then I sadly retire the brass.
 
If you only get one loading from Federal then you are way too hot, IMHO. Duplicate the FGMM velocities with Varget and you'll get 6 to 10. Try to find a load that is one node down and save a LOT of money.
 
I would like to know is there any better way to do it then waiting until you press a new primer in. Once you do that, the brass and the new primer are useless. I dont' think you could remove a primer without damaging it.

Thoughts?

Thanks for everyones input.
 
How much are you bumping the shoulders? If you use Tula primers you'll feel that they fit nice and snug compared to Winchester because they are a Kunt hair bigger. I think I was getting 7 reloads from federal brass and 42g of varget with 168 projos.
 
Bcrich,

I will give them a try. i have been using the Winchester WLR's. I have been bumping the shoulders back. I just got tired of the "tight" rounds that make it hard to close the bolt. I am bumping the shoulders back to 1.620. I am a little confused when bumping the shoulder back would affect the primer pockets? Is it due to pressure when fired? I am only using 41.5 Gr of Varget and 168 Hornady 30501's.

Thanks,
Rob
 
I would like to know is there any better way to do it then waiting until you press a new primer in. Once you do that, the brass and the new primer are useless. I dont' think you could remove a primer without damaging it.

Thoughts?

Thanks for everyones input.

If you need to size primed brass the easiest way it to disassemble the sizing die and remove the decapping pin. Carefully lube your primed cases and run them through the size. Wipe the case lube off the primed case and measure. When finished remember to reinstall the decapping pin or the next time you size you won't decap. I discard my brass when it will no longer hold a primer or I load it ten times.
 
I've bought 500 processed lC 5.56 brass from a company 10 years ago and I have fired 10 k rounds through my ar's . I just keep round count on my barrels. I shoot standard service rifle loads.

I'm shooting my M1A more these days. I'm using commercial brass and figuring out how many reloads I can do with them. Winchester brass w 41.5 gr. H4895. I'm working on 6th reload with the winchester fed fnmm on my third. No sign of primer pocket loosening up as of yet.
 
Last edited:
Scooter64,

Don't push it with the M1A, regardless of how tight the primer pockets seem to be. These should still be tossed after the third (or at most, fourth) firing. Not so much a question of how hot the loads are, or even how soft the brass is (which is also still a big issue) as it is just how hard these guns are on brass. In short, they're brutal. Not as bad as a Garand, but still pretty rough. Brass is disposable, and we just need to wrap our minds around that fact when dealing with certain types of rifles. The M1 and M14/M1A, unfortunately, are just really prime examples of that notion. Just remember, we get our initial issue of two eyes, ten fingers. No DXs, no replacements no do-overs down the road.
 
Rob, I asked about the shoulder bump only because if you bump them back no more than .002 the brass will last you alot longer but it doesn't affect the primer pocket only from case head seperation. What firearm are you shooting? Bolt or semi? In my semis I bump back shoulders .004 and .001-.002 in bolt guns. Deffinetly try the Tula primers you'll feel the difference!
 
Bcrich,

I will certainl try the Tula primers. Where are you ordering yours from. I always ask to see if there are any sites I am not trying yet. I am using a Remington 700 5R and a Browning Target. Both are .308s. I am constantly impressed with the perfomance of both but the Browning has shot the best group so far. I almost hate to say it, but it is true. I had the blow back on my Remingtion and it broke my heart. I ended up sending it back to Remington for repair and they said the issue was casued by reloads. I am certain I could have said it was a factory load and they wouldn't have said a word about it. They of course, charged me $156 for the work and said the bolt needed to be replaced. This hurt bad becasue I had it flutted and installed a knob on it.

This is what pushed me to look into how to prevent it in the future. Another factor is that Remington refuses to return any of the replaced parts to you. Not a big deal but it had some great work done it. Of course, if I had been using a Savage I could have just replaced the bolt head with a PTG replacement. Instead it cost a BUNCH of money due to the custom work I had done on the bolt.

Thanks again for your input.

Rob
 
When I start seeing an obvious ring near the case web, then I sadly retire the brass.

This is also my criteria. I also use a paperclip with a small hook on it to probe the interior of the case looking for the groove that forms before the crack does.

I anneal my brass after 3-5 firings and some has been "under the torch" at least 4 times. It also depends on the brass. Federal doesn't last as long as Lapua and the rest vary.

I control primer leakage by tossing any case that has a loose primer pocket. Prefer to hand seat all primers for that very reason with the exception of my pistol loads (also means I don't have to change the priming mechanism on my Dillon 650 when changing primer size :) ) I'm not so cheap that I figure I have to use that case and not waste the $0.03 primer.

In short if it doesn't split, crack, or have a loose primer pocket, it makes it one more cycle.
 
Deadshot2, Thanks for the input. I agree with you, when it doubt toss it out. I was just thinking that there was a sure fire way to test it somehow.

I hand load all my primers so it shouldn't be too hard for me to figure it out but it is killing me that I had the blow back on my favorite gun. Just
kills me!

thanks again for the input,

Rob
 
I recommend anealing if your not... Other than that if your not bumping shoulder back too much primer pockets will go first

Jake
 
I hated to do it, but I ended up just tossing out the 100 pieces of brass. Just not willing to take the chance at this point. The bad news is i had fully prepped the brass. Just hours of wated work. Oh well, better safe than sorry.

I appreciate everyones input. Has anyone bought brass lately? I appear to be in the market for some .308 brass.

thanks guys,
Rob