- Thread starter Steel head
- Start date
$2,500....
Talks about expanding ball warping the neck, proceeds to smack them out of his machine on the case mouth.
$1,800 if you can turn the handle. Seems pricey on the surface, but there's a lot of design/manufacturer time and materials in that unit. In the days of $1,000 powder scales, $1,200 presses, $600 case trimmers, it's not out of line for the quality and time savings. Keep in mind, this machine is for guys like Erik who shoot X's at 1,000 yards hundreds of times a week.
Valid point
Have the non cnc version almost as long as they have been available. They are nice.
I agree, forces involved are quite different.
I’ll never get that machine but I have tons of respect for it.
I’m considering machining out a collet and making a tool head to do a similar job like that with the Hardinge HLV at work.
Of course they are different, the point is that he explains all the great care in how to manage the case but the extraction method is smacking the mouth with an object.
And the point is, one hurts the brass and the other doesn’t. I.E. one is pulling a metal object through neck which can do all kinds of bad things. The other is taking a piece of plastic and tapping in a direction that can’t hurt anything.
I need 5 friend to go in on this with me. I turn maybe 200 pieces a year I can justify a 600$ cases trimmer/primer seater I use every week. But a neck turner idk
Nice looking machine but the cost...........
I guess I will stay with my cordless screwdriver and my Sinclair tool. But it looks good..........
I guess I will stay with my cordless screwdriver and my Sinclair tool. But it looks good..........
I’m happy with my 21st century but have done a few on the lathe.
I had a full k&m set up but I sold it. I get amazing results with a Hornady tool and 21st mandrels. You have to remove the dumb spring from the tool though
I've turned and measured quite a few pieces of brass and turning station setup plays a large role in the final product. I'm not saying the IDOD isn't worth the price but by adjusting mandrel fit on the 21st Century I can get neck thickness consistency below .0005. Turning volume/time, on the other hand, never changes with the 21st Century so if you're doing a high volume you'll be in for some pain.
I’m 80% sure a guy on another forum used to sell Lapua brass turned to your specs. So there is a market. He’ll if I had more time I’d buy the tool and offer the service
Agreed. I own both the IDOD and 21st with motor.
The biggest thing he said in that video many don’t realize (I had to figure it out on my own as that video wasn’t out), is the IDOD is limited to the runout of your case. You *cannot* turn less than that.
So, if your case runout is .001 and you want to just turn your lapua brass from .013 to .0125, you’re gonna have a hell of a time. You’ll need to go to .012 or .0115. Which won’t hurt you, but many prefer not to turn down that much for various reasons both logical and illogical.
The 21st can take off as little as you want due to the floating case head adapter + mandrel.
If your goal is to just skim turn high spots, the 21st is the tool. It does however require oil/lube if you do it by the book. And it’s going to be slower/slightly more labor intensive.
If you’re looking to turn .002 or so and for speed, the IDOD is the ticket.
I will say that I have noticed zero negative results in turning prs brass down to .011-.012 even when it gives what many would consider excessive neck clearance. It still gives me an increase in consistency across loads (lower ES and neck consistency). In theory I’ll probably see split necks sooner. But I haven’t experienced that yet.
I’m guessing since you anneal regularly you’ll still loose cases or primer pockets before you get slits.
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