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Value precision rifle setup

Rate_of_Twist

Rate_of_Twist

Rate Of Twist
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Minuteman
Jan 29, 2018
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www.rateoftwist.com
Hello all,

Im looking to jump into a a "precision" rifle bolt gun setup for shooting regularly between 300-600 yards, with a goal of getting out past that when travel to a range with facilities will allow. Im looking to get off to a decent start without breaking the bank.

Price - total setup $2500 - $3500 for optic and rifle. I will also like to do a .22lr configured in a similar manner for my kids and I to mess around with, but that is a separate budget.

Caliber - 6.5 Creedmoor I know there is a lot out there for options, but I want 6.5 Creedmoor because i feel like it bridges the gap between potential and availability. I reload, but I want the option to purchase off the shelf ammo at reasonable prices. I already shoot and reload .308, but Ive always been fascinated with 6.5 rounds

Rifles Im considering - In no order

Tikka T3x CTR
Tikka T3x Tac A1
Bergara B-14 HMR
Bergara Premier HMR Pro
Bergara Premier LRP
Ruger Precision Rifle
Christensen Modern Precision Rifle
Maybe Savage ???

The Christensen doesn't leave much left for an optic, The CTR needs a stock upgrade out of the box, Im nervous about jumping into Bergara not knowing how well they will support me if there is issues, Im not in love with Savage or Ruger, but that perhaps is just my perception of the companies.

Optics - in no order

Steiner T5xi 5-25 ( it appears there has been a huge price jump in these? )
Burris XTRII 5-25
?????

Im torn between Mil and MOA. I would like to be able to jump into the Nightforce SHV line, but it appears the only do Mil to 14x Im overall pretty lost in terms of optics and Ive listed only what Ive physically seen or used that I really liked and would justify paying for. i have no intention of putting a $400 optic on a $2500 rifle, but as I stareted with, I would like to get the absolute best value i can for the price I have set aside. I am not on a timeline, so "in stock" doesnt mean anything, getting it right means a lot more.

Your thoughts or feedback are most kindly appreciated
 
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24" CTR and whatever tickles your pickle for a scope. T5 would be nice as would a used kahles 624i, g2 razor, AMG, etc. put it in a krg bravo if the tikka stock isn't good enough.
 
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I'm in a pretty similar place as you, and considering a lot of the same rifles. I would also recommend looking at the Howa rifles, both the HCR and the new Bravo. Everyone seems to like them a whole lot, and they would leave you more room for the scope.

I am equally torn on optics as you. In addition to the XTRII, I have been considering the Vortex Viper PST 2 5-25 and Bushnell DMR 3.5-21, you might check those two out as well.

Good luck, I'm interested to see what you end up with.
 
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I’d spend $1K to get an RPR and use the rest on optic. Accuracy and functionality all of those rifles are in the same ballpark, you will see a much greater improvement spending an extra grand on the optic vs rifle.
 
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Since I am only six months into this LR shooting I was thinking along the same lines as you. Buy a rifle and scope and go shoot. It does not end there.
Rifle: Ruger PR in .308 = $1,200.00
Scope: Vortex PST Gen2 5-25 = $1,100.00
Badger Defense Unimount =$200.00
Ergo Grip with palm rest = $45.00
Magpul PRS Gen3 Stock = $240.00
Atlas PRS bipod w/leg extensions = $365.00
Vortex magnification throw lever =$60.00
Bushnell CONX range finder = $300.00
Rifle case = $125.00
Magpul AICS 5 rd. magazine = $30.00
Total = $3665.00
Since I don't load for rifle I also have spent close to $750.00 on ammo. Thankfully I have quite a bit left to shoot. If you go much higher on your rifle and scope it quickly gets out of hand. Granted some of these options were wants and not needs. They can be added when more funds are available.
Wait for sales and discontinued/closeouts and many of the items can be had cheaper.
Best of luck DannC
 
For fuck sakes if your green and aren't died in the blood moa shooter go Mills. Who the fuck wants to dial 27.50 minutes of angle to 1000 when they could dial 8mills. I'm a knuckle dragger, smaller numbers is easier for me. Wish I would have known what a mill was 15 years ago.
 
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I've got a 24" Stainless CTR in 6.5 listed in classified. Only fired 5 rounds through it so far in starting the break-in process.

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/wts-tikka-t3x-ctr-stainless-24-6-5-cm.6869445/

I also have a KRG X-Ray chassis for it that I'd sell for $500 including 1 MDT AICS mag that is verified to feed well with the CTR.

And, to round it out, I have a Sig Tango6 3-18x44 FFP MRAD scope listed as well for $780. Discontinued first gen Tango6 but great glass for the price. Or, if you want more, also have a Nightforce ATACR 7-35 F1 (MOR) listed for sale as well as a Vortex Razor HD II 4.5-27 MOA.
 
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RPR's are great. After owning one and selling for no real reason other than to fund an Barrett MRAD. I've been looking at a Bergara BMP in 6.5 CM. Now that they have come out with a 6 CM version thats the one I'll be going with. The CA Mpr is very nice, I handled one at a gun shop and now I have the fever for one in 6.5 PRC!!!

It's a sickness, watch out!!!

You've been warned.
 
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Another vote for Howa

Buy a threaded muzzle barreled action in 6.5 Creed from Brownells and drop it into a KRG 180-Xray chassis. That will eat up about $1000 - $1100 of your budget. Tons left over for scope, base, rings, a bipod, and some ammo to get started.
 
demolitionman said:
Who the fuck wants to dial 27.50 minutes of angle to 1000 when they could dial 8mills.
Click to expand...
I don't get why this numerical difference trips people's breakers. You have to turn the elevation knob the same distance either way. I don't know what you do, but I don't memorize my dope. I look it up and dial it in (or hold off) so the actual number means jack shit.
 
blackblue said:
Tikka CTR drop it in a KRG Bravo for $1400
Click to expand...

So it seems real world pricing is more like Tikka T3X CTR 24" 6.5 $815 rifle + $389 stock for $1204

Or T3x Tac A1 for $1620

The interesting thing with going with the CTR / KRG Bravo is for around $2k i could get (2) KRG Bravo, a CTR and a Tikka T1x to drop in the second Bravo. That frankly sound like an awful lot of fun for $2k
 
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Get the Tikka TAC A1 and put a Athlon Cronus on it. It comes with 3 magazines that allow COAL of 2.95" and they are super smooth. You will get bored shooting 600 yards pretty fast.

I did the CTR and have it in a German Gun Stock Predator for more of a dual purpose rifle. I wanted to keep the Tikka mags and they are down to $70-75 now.
 
If you are going to be shooting "nra" targets....MOA is slightly better imo.

If you are going to be shooting at unknown distancea and need to range targets....MILS are slightly better imo.

Otherwise theres no practical difference......if your buddies all shoot with one in particular, ide go with whatever they are running so you can spot for eachother easier.



For a gun ready to go out the box......the ruger precision rifle is a pretty good choice........the new remington magpul rifle also looks promising.

For 600yds itll be a cake walk for any production rifle......so choose one you like
 
I'm trying to do something very similar. My plan so far.


Steiner T5Xi 3-15 $1000 used
Bighorn Origin action $750
KRG Bravo $350
PVA sholdered barrel $519

$2,619 and I still need to decide on a scope mount or rings.

Take your time and look for deals. You should be able to find a used Steiner 5-25 for $1,200ish. I'm waiting for a Brownells 10%/free shipping code and then I'll purchase the KRG Bravo.
 
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I was you about a month ago. I was going to go w/ an RPR but ended up w/ the Tac A1. I'm not disappointed. I went w/ a Primary Arms Platinum series 6-30x56 DEKA reticle which is MILS. I'd suggest MILS regardless of scope manufacturer unless you have a reason to go w/ MOA.

The Platinum is not very well known but gets great reviews and seems to be the exact same scope as a well regarded Weaver but with a much better reticle. Search this forum for the Weaver reviews if interested.

I found the rifle for $1583 shipped from G4G guns. Price as increased since. Another member hear found it for $1500 shipped. The scope is $1499 from many retailers including Primary Arms. I bought mine from Optics Planet and received a $150 gift card which I used towards an Atlas bipod.

As many have pointed out, there's much more than a rifle and scope. But much of that you can add later while enjoying your rifle and scope. Ruger recently released a sub $400, street price, 22.lr precision rifle very similar to the RPR including an option for a full throw bolt.

I was perusing reviews on the PA scope when I found this video and it is what moved me to the Tikka.

 
Athlon Cronus for the scope, good glass, especially for the price, got a great deal from Bulldog Firearms here on the hide, sold my Burris, loved the turrets but the Cronus has much better glass. I really like the reticle too, I'll be picking up the Ares ETR when it's available later in the year.
 
I have an HMR in 6.5. As far as a budget rifle it comes pretty complete and the performance is great. Also leaves great room for a great optic. Let me know what optics you are interested in. I'd be happy to give you a great deal. You can message me here and I'm happy to help you or you can call the shop 800-720-9625 and ask for Ben. If you call remind me you were looking for this setup on the Hide.
 
Within your budget it's very hard to beat the John Hancock from PVA. Not sure on optics but you'd have $1500 left to work with if you went that route.
 
Tons of great advice here and I bet you’ll be a happy camper with whatever route you go. As someone who’s just recently dipped my toes in the prs pool, I might add that a little patience & flexibility in finding a good deal can pay off big in the “value” department, especially if you don’t mind considering used gear.

I picked up a Bergara HMR 6.5CM with APA LB brake & Warne 20moa rail - 350 rds down the pipe & could pass for new - for $780 shipped on GB. A few weeks later on this forum I scored a NF SHV F1 4-14 w/Tenebraex caps & NF UL rings for $1k!

As a beginner learning the ropes I feel this setup is plenty suitable for my current needs, which are mainly recreational target/steel shooting out to 6-700 yds & the odd daytime hog (when not using the thermal/AR night rig) at the ranch. If & when I feel this setup is a limiting factor vs my skillset or just want to try something different I should be able to upgrade without taking too much of a beating.
 
After listening to a podcast on from The Everyday Sniper, this is my recommendation. Find a gun that you like, Tikka or what have you and spend the rest on optics and mount. A good scope will last years, rifles come and go but scopes man they are tough to replace. Take this time with an entry rifle. I have the HMR-14 in 6.5, if I could do it again it would be the Tikka CTR in 6.5, the bolt is just that smooth. After that I'd save for a 1.5k-2k optic with a good mount. Used is fine, but learning what you like is important.
 
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I would go with a PVA John Hancock if you don't mind waiting. Otherwise a Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 creedmoor is a great choice check whittakerguns.com they have them in stock Periodically 24" barrel ss for a good price. Either way make sure to put a PVA jetblast muzzle brake on. I would steer clear of the Burris xtr imo the clarity leaves a bit to be desired.
 
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I just recently got a Savage 10T 6.5CM and had it in a Manners T6A with an Athlon Cronus BTR on top. First 25 rds out of the rifle (five 5 shot groups) averaged sub 3/4 moa with 5 different brands of factory Ammo on a day with 30 mph winds. Hornady American gunner 140, Norma 130, Winchester 140, Hornady Precision Hunter 143, and HSM 140 Berger hunting VLD. It surprised the hell out of me. I got a XLR Evo chassis for it now and will be bringing it back to the Range this weekend. However, for the money spent on a factory BA, I’m definitely happy so far.
 
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Codiekfx400 said:
I would go with a PVA John Hancock if you don't mind waiting. Otherwise a Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 creedmoor is a great choice check whittakerguns.com they have them in stock Periodically 24" barrel ss for a good price. Either way make sure to put a PVA jetblast muzzle brake on. I would steer clear of the Burris xtr imo the clarity leaves a bit to be desired.
Click to expand...


Someone had a used stainless CTR on here for a decent price earlier this week.
 
So after a bunch of reading here and elsewhere and getting my hands on some of the firearms mentioned I'm going to focus in on

Tikka T3x Tac a1 = $1550
Tikka T3x CTR + KRG Bravo Chassis = $1205

And the wild card

PVA " John Hancock" = $2000 +

The PVA really has me excited, but the uncertainties about the wait, and the added cost to really complete it are much high than I planned. But...
 
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308pirate said:
I don't get why this numerical difference trips people's breakers. You have to turn the elevation knob the same distance either way. I don't know what you do, but I don't memorize my dope. I look it up and dial it in (or hold off) so the actual number means jack shit.
Click to expand...

Yes, the numbers don’t mean a lot until your shooting matches or whatever with others and they are calling in units you are not using. This goes both ways.

Most not all, older paper punchers are talking moa or don’t even use subtensions. For corrections if shooting steel I’ve seen them give parts of targets or gongs. Actually, these guys still seem to call miss location first rather than the faster method of giving only the correction.

Most positional will be speaking mills.

The recent ELR boom has brought a lot of paper shooters over to the sport. So that’s kinda interesting.

ELR, up in that mid 20 mil range things to get slower with MOA for most people. This is really true when dialing different ELR distances. For instance, the call is 24.4mil I can easily see on a 10 base scope 2 turns + sitting on 4.4; MOA is 82.35..Go down to next target at 18.2 @ simply spin down to 8.2- sure the same is true for a 30 based MOA scope at 61.4 it is just that the confirmations can be a bit slower (for some), because rather than just dial down to 8.2, most will not intuitively go from the 82.35MOA seating and instantly dial down to 1moa + 2 clicks on the turret indicator- same issue for the spotter, usually a tiny bit of process involved, either math or think 60(2 turns) + 1.4, ok dial down to 1 + 2clicks
. It is splitting hairs but some people like one over the other.

They are both fine. But you need to get the one your brain gets, and your shooting partners/people around you are going to use.
 
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Diver160651 said:
Yes, the numbers don’t mean a lot until your shooting matches or whatever with others and they are calling in units you are not using. This goes both ways.

Most not all, older paper punchers are talking moa or don’t even use subtensions. For corrections if shooting steel I’ve seen them give parts of targets or gongs. Actually, these guys still seem to call miss location first rather than the faster method of giving only the correction.

Most positional will be speaking mills.

The recent ELR boom has brought a lot of paper shooters over to the sport. So that’s kinda interesting.

ELR, up in that mid 20 mil range things to get slower with MOA for most people. This is really true when dialing different ELR distances. For instance, the call is 24.4mil I can easily see on a 10 base scope 2 turns + sitting on 4.4; MOA is 82.35..Go down to next target at 18.2 @ simply spin down to 8.2- sure the same is true for a 30 based MOA scope at 61.4 it is just that the confirmations can be a bit slower (for some), because rather than just dial down to 8.2, most will not intuitively go from the 82.35MOA seating and instantly dial down to 1moa + 2 clicks on the turret indicator- same issue for the spotter, usually a tiny bit of process involved, either math or think 60(2 turns) + 1.4, ok dial down to 1 + 2clicks
. It is splitting hairs but some people like one over the other.

They are both fine. But you need to get the one your brain gets, and your shooting partners/people around you are going to use.
Click to expand...
I get all that. I'm used to both, having spent a good number of years in the MOA world (NRA) and then switching to mils. In the normal realm of mid to long range (500 - 1200 yds) one is just as easy to use as the other for me.

I'm with you on the corrections. It annoys the shit out of me when someone calls where I missed. Tell me how to correct, that's how I call it (up .5, left .3...)

Can't comment on ELR as I know next to nothing about it.
 
**DRB** said:
So after a bunch of reading here and elsewhere and getting my hands on some of the firearms mentioned I'm going to focus in on

Tikka T3x Tac a1 = $1550
Tikka T3x CTR + KRG Bravo Chassis = $1205

And the wild card

PVA " John Hancock" = $2000 +

The PVA really has me excited, but the uncertainties about the wait, and the added cost to really complete it are much high than I planned. But...
Click to expand...

The thing I'd put forth on the Tikka is as follows:

Most guys fiddle with the triggers to clean them up and drop the pull weight. Timney is now offering a drop in. That is an upgrade that makese sense. It also costs $

A used Tikka typically has a shit barrel on it. The reason I say used is because I don't know anyone that sells a rifle which really shoots. They find something else, including bodily fluids to sell, before selling a rifle that really shoots well.

So if you get one with a turd barrel and you need to upgrade you're at another $450-750 bucks depending on what you get done. We make drop in prefit Tikkas for $425.

The Hancock has a really good trigger, a really good barrel, a BRAVO on it already, the rail is inncluded, etc.
It is more money on the first purchase but the subsequent "upgrade" purchases don't exist.
 
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bohem said:
The thing I'd put forth on the Tikka is as follows:

Most guys fiddle with the triggers to clean them up and drop the pull weight. Timney is now offering a drop in. That is an upgrade that makese sense. It also costs $

A used Tikka typically has a shit barrel on it. The reason I say used is because I don't know anyone that sells a rifle which really shoots. They find something else, including bodily fluids to sell, before selling a rifle that really shoots well.

So if you get one with a turd barrel and you need to upgrade you're at another $450-750 bucks depending on what you get done. We make drop in prefit Tikkas for $425.

The Hancock has a really good trigger, a really good barrel, a BRAVO on it already, the rail is inncluded, etc.
It is more money on the first purchase but the subsequent "upgrade" purchases don't exist.
Click to expand...


Josh- I'll start backing you up on here and pimping your stuff; You go fire up that lathe and start spinning some barrels for the 5,000 orders you probably have. But seriously - how many did the group buy/ pre-order?
 
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bohem said:
The thing I'd put forth on the Tikka is as follows:

Most guys fiddle with the triggers to clean them up and drop the pull weight. Timney is now offering a drop in. That is an upgrade that makese sense. It also costs $

A used Tikka typically has a shit barrel on it. The reason I say used is because I don't know anyone that sells a rifle which really shoots. They find something else, including bodily fluids to sell, before selling a rifle that really shoots well.

So if you get one with a turd barrel and you need to upgrade you're at another $450-750 bucks depending on what you get done. We make drop in prefit Tikkas for $425.

The Hancock has a really good trigger, a really good barrel, a BRAVO on it already, the rail is inncluded, etc.
It is more money on the first purchase but the subsequent "upgrade" purchases don't exist.
Click to expand...

I LOVE my Tikka. For good reason. I missed your offering "by this much". If I knew then what I know now, your rifle would have been on my list. I think you're going to be very successful with this rifle and you're on the leading edge of this trend and really appreciate what you're doing to getting "beginners" involved. I'm rooting for the guys from Pennsylvania and I'm sure MY Tikka will need a new barrel at some point. Hopefully sooner than later, 'cause that means I'm out shooting, and you're already on a very short list. Thanks again, really. I know this isn't 'easy' and I'm sure you're adsorbing some of the costs to make this happen.
 
Jefe's Dope said:
Thanks again, really. I know this isn't 'easy' and I'm sure you're adsorbing some of the costs to make this happen.
Click to expand...
Indeed we are.
If you add the price up of all the parts in the rifle the retail cost of the rifle comes out to less than the retail cost for equivalently configured parts. That doesn't include shipping costs from 5 different vendors or from the tools necessary.

On top of that there is excise tax to pay which is 11% of the value of the rifle. So essentially we are building a rifle on the margin in the parts and not charging for labor to hang the barrel.
 
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Diver160651 said:
Yes, the numbers don’t mean a lot until your shooting matches or whatever with others and they are calling in units you are not using. This goes both ways.

Most not all, older paper punchers are talking moa or don’t even use subtensions. For corrections if shooting steel I’ve seen them give parts of targets or gongs. Actually, these guys still seem to call miss location first rather than the faster method of giving only the correction.

Most positional will be speaking mills.

The recent ELR boom has brought a lot of paper shooters over to the sport. So that’s kinda interesting.

ELR, up in that mid 20 mil range things to get slower with MOA for most people. This is really true when dialing different ELR distances. For instance, the call is 24.4mil I can easily see on a 10 base scope 2 turns + sitting on 4.4; MOA is 82.35..Go down to next target at 18.2 @ simply spin down to 8.2- sure the same is true for a 30 based MOA scope at 61.4 it is just that the confirmations can be a bit slower (for some), because rather than just dial down to 8.2, most will not intuitively go from the 82.35MOA seating and instantly dial down to 1moa + 2 clicks on the turret indicator- same issue for the spotter, usually a tiny bit of process involved, either math or think 60(2 turns) + 1.4, ok dial down to 1 + 2clicks
. It is splitting hairs but some people like one over the other.

They are both fine. But you need to get the one your brain gets, and your shooting partners/people around you are going to use.
Click to expand...

Most of what you just said is out of my league frankly. I've shot NRA high Power - service rifle years ago, but it's was all MOA click adjustments of 1/4 at know distances. I never really ever had to think much after dope was established at each firing line. Where can I go to learn more?
bohem said:
Indeed we are.
If you add the price up of all the parts in the rifle the retail cost of the rifle comes out to less than the retail cost for equivalently configured parts. That doesn't include shipping costs from 5 different vendors or from the tools necessary.

On top of that there is excise tax to pay which is 11% of the value of the rifle. So essentially we are building a rifle on the margin in the parts and not charging for labor to hang the barrel.
Click to expand...

So, just speaking openly, will this work both short and long term? Do you see the potential where you are not just giving these away?

Personally, I'm excited. More excited about any single firearm I've come across in a long time. But, I hope you are setting yourself up to be in a position of strength so your are there able to support the product for the next xx many years for potential customers like me.
 
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Tikka CTR and SWFA 5-20 HD is not a bad option. Well under your budget if you want a stock upgrade, and you'll be able to use your extra stock on the new Tikka rimfire if you want a training rifle.
 
bohem said:
I'm not going to go into detail on the business model but this is something that we have envisioned long term and the companies that are making some of the base components also share the same vision.
Click to expand...

No, sorry, I wasn't asking specifics... more just hoping you have laid yourself a good base, because I believe you are on to something.
 
**DRB** said:
Most of what you just said is out of my league frankly.
Click to expand...

Well it isn’t a big deal. It comes really fast. But I think when or if you start shooting field matches you will generally find more speaking Mils than MOA.

I think the hide used to have something on here with videos, but I don’t know if that is still live or if the material is in the videos.

Lastly, probably not known to a lot of people, but Mil turret adjustments are (mechanical issues aside) actually more straight foward at long ranges than most older or cheaper MOA scopes using 1/4” turrets. Meaning at 1200 yards X turns on a mil based turret will represent the same number of Mils at that distance. But in some MOA scopes with 1/4” clicks X number of MOA at the same distance does not really = X MOA in the turret spins. Of course your better MOA scopes ARE 1/4 or whatever MOA clicks NOT 1/4”

I no longer own, but sometimes spot when neeed on MOA scopes. I do have one MOA - 1/4” turrets on my PCP but I do not dial it. Again as long as you know what you really have, no big deal between them.

If you have a 1/4” scope make sure to select 1/4 turret in your solver but also choose IPHY- NOT MOA. That will compensate for the issue above.

EDIT to ADD: Here is an example of a listing COPIED DIRECTLY of a NEW scope.. So are the turret adjustments 1/4 MOA or 1/4" @ 100y??

4-16x50 AO Features
  • 4-16x magnification
  • 50mm objective lens
  • 1/4 MOA (1/4" click value @ 100 yds)
  • Mil-dot reticle
I think it is well known you want to stay away from mixed systems. Not many, good new scopes will do this.

Also most modern mil based scopes use a 6400 mil system (NATO/ARMY). There are a couple that used the 6283 mil but I think those have mostly been weeded out. If you somehow find the latter use USMC in your solver.
 
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OP do you really need the threaded barrel? If not, then the Tikka Varmint model has the same contour as the Tac and CTR, and if you're going to a chassis anyway the stock won't matter.

I am finally getting around to building up my 11 year old Tikka Varmint with a KRG Bravo, Warne 20 MOA rail, and Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 mil in a set of 1" Seekins rings. All told it will come in at the low end of your budget depending on what Tikkas go for nowadays-mine was $750 in 2007.
 
athanasios23 said:
I'd buy this scope. Big fan of steiner.

https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...-xtr-signature-rings-scr-mil-reticle.6869122/
Click to expand...

I was too until I started reading here... now im not sure what to think!

The optics for of the conversation is even more foreign to me than the rifle. Essentially, I don't know, or shoot, with anyone with ANY of these mid to high end optics. So, it's throwing down between $1500 and $3k and something I've never seen or used all based on review and YouTube. No idea on a reticle, not sure what ineed for magnification, no idea on brand.. I guess I want a mil based setup, but only because it's what everyone seems to use

Blah!
 
**DRB** said:
I was too until I started reading here... now im not sure what to think!

The optics for of the conversation is even more foreign to me than the rifle. Essentially, I don't know, or shoot, with anyone with ANY of these mid to high end optics. So, it's throwing down between $1500 and $3k and something I've never seen or used all based on review and YouTube. No idea on a reticle, not sure what ineed for magnification, no idea on brand.. I guess I want a mil based setup, but only because it's what everyone seems to use

Blah!
Click to expand...

If you are referring to the turrets of the T5xi when released, then yes. It was a cluster fuck. They seem to have corrected it. It's a shame as I remember the anticipation people had for those scopes. I believe it really hurt steiners reputation and will be a while before consumers get passed it. I have the steiner military and the M5xi. Both have been flawless. I have run them both out to 1000 yards and back with no tracking issues. The military has seen 4 or 5 long range and precision classes and a few had movers past 300 yards. It would still be on my main precision rifle if I didnt purchase a S&B when they slashed prices last year.

I would definitely try and link up with some hide members or long range shooters in your area and try and fondle some optics. Everyone's eyes are different and everyone has a preference on what reticle they like best. I prefer less cluttered reticles. That just my opinion on them though.

Good luck with your new rig and post a pic when you get it all together.
 
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