So ai admits to heavy bolt lift
AI is fixing the bolt lift issue by including an 8" cheater bar (with a machined in AI logo) with every new AT-XC to slip over the bolt handle to make the felt bolt lift softer.
Left handed cheater bars for left handed actions are expected to be available by Q3 2025 at an estimated price of $799.
wtf is a AXSR Mil? Wasn’t that the whole point of the AXSR? …for the Mil contract…
Looks like AXSR Mil = you can get the MLOK forearm from us without having to snag it from EuroOptic whenever they get one.
I don’t get why they aren’t giving the option of a shorter handguard on the “new” AT-X
0 sense
And no 223 still?
AI if your reading this, you missed everything the end user has been asking for
0 sense
And no 223 still?
AI if your reading this, you missed everything the end user has been asking for
Guess it's time for me to actually send my AT bolt to lri for him to do his cloning magic.
Had no idea the atxc/mil had a different bolt setup.... why? It doesn't make sense from a manufacturing perspective or business perspective.
Had no idea the atxc/mil had a different bolt setup.... why? It doesn't make sense from a manufacturing perspective or business perspective.
Should’ve dropped the AT-X to PRS “production” pricing. The chassis still lacks factory provision for a thumb rest - just drill and tap a couple of holes for a 3D printed thumb rest that they could sell for another $95.
Means everyone's current AT-X is outdated and they need to buy the one with the new action. It's been a pretty successful model so far.
Yeah I guess it has been.
I’m not seeing anything with the “new” one that compels me to want to upgrade.
Mine still goes bang, and shoots the same cartridges. I don’t care if it’s now the poverty spec model.
I’m not seeing anything with the “new” one that compels me to want to upgrade.
Mine still goes bang, and shoots the same cartridges. I don’t care if it’s now the poverty spec model.
They look the same
View attachment 8330017
Maybe the option for m-lok makes it mil
View attachment 8330015
The funnier consideration is the how the AI webmaster referenced them in the link.....one says axsr and the other says copy-of-axsr
....create a new model by creating a copy of a current webpage, changing it up with some fonts and colors while using same photos, note comments on SH to get ideas of how to create value (maraging steel, m-lok options, etc), and timing it the same for SHOT 2024....brilliant!!!
...if you
I think the new action on the AT-X is a good step forward. Have recently been fighting to get an AT-X down to sub 16lb weight without sacrificing too much in the way of optics, bipod and brake. Sure the gains will be slight, but they're always welcome.
The AXSR is a great rifle, the action is definitely slimmer and the blast discs are nice to have. Seeing them combine the AT-X and AXSR in that area is a good thing.
With these new models, there are still feature gaps that could be filled to make them more attractive to a wider group.
A mid length (PRC / SAUM / WSM etc. capable) actioned AXSR without the aggressive chassis step, lighter back end, removable top rail etc. would be fairly close to ideal I think.
The AXSR is a great rifle, the action is definitely slimmer and the blast discs are nice to have. Seeing them combine the AT-X and AXSR in that area is a good thing.
With these new models, there are still feature gaps that could be filled to make them more attractive to a wider group.
A mid length (PRC / SAUM / WSM etc. capable) actioned AXSR without the aggressive chassis step, lighter back end, removable top rail etc. would be fairly close to ideal I think.
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Couple of pages ago I tagged him in this thread when people were asking about magnum bolt faces for short actions. He said send him my bolt and he will model it and see what he can do.
If it's SFP go for it. You would save me shipping! I believe last time he modeled a part it only took him a few days at most.
If not let me know and I'll get mine out either later this week or early next.
I’d have to talk to him.
Mine is a recent production AT-X so I assume it’s a small firing pin.
Guess I could measure it to confirm, what do I need to pull the measurement off of?
Mine is a recent production AT-X so I assume it’s a small firing pin.
Guess I could measure it to confirm, what do I need to pull the measurement off of?
It's small pin then but if you want pull the firing pin from the bolt and with a caliper measure the diameter of the firing pin closest to the tip. Should be about 0.062", large pins are something like 0.080.
With the advent of this new AI flop, should I still consider getting my LFP AT bolt bushed or let it ride?
Have they even been available? I’ve considered that and a 6.5 creed barrel versus a whole new build
You’ll be really happy with the LRI bolt bushing. They do great work and the money you save will pay for your 6.5 barrel.
I don't know. I have never looked for one.
You could bush the bolt and firing pin as others have said. Lots of people swear by it. I don't. It makes it a non-standard AI part. I am not sure how compatible factory spare parts would be if you needed them.
My AT was made in 2015. It has an SFP which lets me shoot SRP cartridges. I will use the MC for 308, and 338 LM. I can still shoot Hornady 6.5 CM with it as well. I don't have the primer piercing issue with Hornady.
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Let me mull it over. Were you planning on an entire bolt body, handle, bolt head, ejector, and extractor being reproduced? Just how much work are we talking about?
I think we are talking about the bolt body assembly, not the firing pin/shroud assembly.
If I were in the area, I would lend Chad an LH bolt body but there is no way I am sending that through the mail
I gotta yank my bolt and double check. Pretty sure my AT is a late 14 so maybe I got lucky. If not, I’ll run LRP 6.5 creed
@RUN8 @Nik H
If I recall he wanted the entire bolt assembly. Wanted to make sure it all modeled correctly together. Just hit the bolt stop and send off whats in your hand. Thats what I planned to do when I send it.
EDIT:
@TheBigCountry I'd trust LRI hands down, but hold off until we see what they can do. Might be able to get a whole assembly from LRI in the not so distant future. For reference in the clone threads he went from having a CMP UNS for an Xm3 in his hands to model to selling in about a months time.
If I recall he wanted the entire bolt assembly. Wanted to make sure it all modeled correctly together. Just hit the bolt stop and send off whats in your hand. Thats what I planned to do when I send it.
EDIT:
@TheBigCountry I'd trust LRI hands down, but hold off until we see what they can do. Might be able to get a whole assembly from LRI in the not so distant future. For reference in the clone threads he went from having a CMP UNS for an Xm3 in his hands to model to selling in about a months time.
I pierced those primers too with LFP.
Side question…. Do many folks out there run an AI chassis with (insert custom 700 style action)? I feel like I never see many builds just utilizing the chassis. I have a Zermatt TL3 around and honestly thinking of picking up just the AT-X chassis.
Factory fodder? Or reloads?
Still trying to wrap my head around pierced primers
Got a buddy who threw his GA Precision Tempest build in an ATX chassis and loves it. no issues at all.
Maybe he can chime in here.
Paging: @LRI
Hell if needs be I can supply him with the whole rifle to play with if he needs it. Taking the action out down to just the bolt and the receiver is no big sweat.
I had most primers pierced with prime 6.5 factory loads. The rest were hand loads. LRI bushing and I’ve never had another issue, wish I would’ve done it sooner than I did. That was years ago, do it and never look back after the first primer issue you see.
I do too in my MC. Only Hornady seems to have no issues
If you REALLY don’t want to lose it during shipping, you can always do the really secure USPS registered mail restricted delivery:
At least I think that’s the most secure delivery that regular people have access to.
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That sounds pricey. Gonna see what Chad says cuz if I lost the bolt in the mail I’m pretty much screwed
Yeah, I dunno what it costs. You can insure up to $50k that way, I believe. That leads me to believe you can send up to $50k in cash.
Registered mail is actually very cheap. I have used it a whole lot. I sent a rifle I own that is the only known existing example across the country registered mail once. I trust it. I think it cost me 50 bucks. Probably a bit more now.
Every hand that touches registered mail has to sign chain of custody receipts and the mail is locked up the whole way. Theft does not occur because of the accountability for whoever touches it.
Man, I’m going on vacation that way lol
There’s a whole thread dedicated to it in this sub forum.
I have a couple of rifles in AICS chassis.
6.5PRC - ATX AICS
308 - AXSR AICS
22LR - ATX AICS short
They are all outstanding, the machining quality and components are the same as the actual AI rifles they represent.
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Guess that’s the way ima do it then since it looks like getting another SFP bolt is:
Very expensive
Unobtanium
Hey gents,
Regarding mail. We've been in business formally since early 2009. In that time I have had around 6 or 7 guns/parts go MIA for a while via the USPS. They've all been recovered, but it took a while. By and large, USPS Priority Mail does a very good job.
What can get you into trouble:
Plastic gun cases in the wintertime. Attaching a label directly to the plastic is a good way to lose your stuff. The adhesive on the label doesn't stick to the plastic very well. You are far better off using a luggage tag around the handle like the airport does.
Tangs on receivers like an M700 are how you blast a hole in a case. They are sharp and will pierce the plastic easily. Spend a little time wrapping a receiver in something that'll prevent this.
Trigger shoes suffer a very high mortality rate. Either remove them completely or attach the floormetal to the action.
Bolts... NEVER ship a rifle or barreled action with the bolt in the receiver. Experience is never cheap.
Shipping via certified mail is about the most secure means to send something, but know that it'll move at a geological pace.
Another option is FedEx or UPS but the policy has changed regarding complete rifles. If shipping a whole gun, you would need to either have an FFL and an account or go to a local dealer you are comfortable working with and have them send it using their account. For non-serialized parts such as a bolt, it's pretty smooth sailing. Just declare it as a "machined part" and send it just as you would a pair of sneakers.
Hope this helped.
Regarding mail. We've been in business formally since early 2009. In that time I have had around 6 or 7 guns/parts go MIA for a while via the USPS. They've all been recovered, but it took a while. By and large, USPS Priority Mail does a very good job.
What can get you into trouble:
Plastic gun cases in the wintertime. Attaching a label directly to the plastic is a good way to lose your stuff. The adhesive on the label doesn't stick to the plastic very well. You are far better off using a luggage tag around the handle like the airport does.
Tangs on receivers like an M700 are how you blast a hole in a case. They are sharp and will pierce the plastic easily. Spend a little time wrapping a receiver in something that'll prevent this.
Trigger shoes suffer a very high mortality rate. Either remove them completely or attach the floormetal to the action.
Bolts... NEVER ship a rifle or barreled action with the bolt in the receiver. Experience is never cheap.
Shipping via certified mail is about the most secure means to send something, but know that it'll move at a geological pace.
Another option is FedEx or UPS but the policy has changed regarding complete rifles. If shipping a whole gun, you would need to either have an FFL and an account or go to a local dealer you are comfortable working with and have them send it using their account. For non-serialized parts such as a bolt, it's pretty smooth sailing. Just declare it as a "machined part" and send it just as you would a pair of sneakers.
Hope this helped.
