my trigger on my 700 action kind of lockedup on me, anyone know whats up with that or how i might fix it? any info would be great thanks
- Thread starter fishguts
- Start date
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
Pull the bolt, then the barreled action out of the stock.
Grab a can of brake or carb cleaner and spray the crap out of the trigger assembly. Cover your scope if you think you might get spray on it.
Put the bolt back in and try to dry fire it.
If it works, put it back together. If not, then we need more info to troubleshoot the problem.
Pull the bolt, then the barreled action out of the stock.
Grab a can of brake or carb cleaner and spray the crap out of the trigger assembly. Cover your scope if you think you might get spray on it.
Put the bolt back in and try to dry fire it.
If it works, put it back together. If not, then we need more info to troubleshoot the problem.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
ok mike will do thanks
ok mike will do thanks
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
didnt help, it will stay cocked on saftie but not off saftie. scary part is when you cock it on safe then take it off safe it fires by its self! need a pic of something on it?
didnt help, it will stay cocked on saftie but not off saftie. scary part is when you cock it on safe then take it off safe it fires by its self! need a pic of something on it?
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
hopeing to not have to.
hopeing to not have to.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
Is it a new type or an older one.
Is it a new type or an older one.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
The 700 factory trigger assembly has a cheaply made trigger that is not suitable for sear contact. So, in order to have a hardened trigger to sear contact there is a tool steel strap, so to speak, that wraps around the front of the trigger. This is what supports the sear. It usually works well. But if some debri gets between these two parts,or more commonly a bit of rust starts growing in there, the trigger and the strap are pushed apart. This reduces the sear engagement. If it is reduced enough it will act like yours. Can't say for sure this is your issue, but it sounds like it. Take it to a gunsmith. While there buy a good aftermarket trigger. The Shilen is great.
The 700 factory trigger assembly has a cheaply made trigger that is not suitable for sear contact. So, in order to have a hardened trigger to sear contact there is a tool steel strap, so to speak, that wraps around the front of the trigger. This is what supports the sear. It usually works well. But if some debri gets between these two parts,or more commonly a bit of rust starts growing in there, the trigger and the strap are pushed apart. This reduces the sear engagement. If it is reduced enough it will act like yours. Can't say for sure this is your issue, but it sounds like it. Take it to a gunsmith. While there buy a good aftermarket trigger. The Shilen is great.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
Is it the old Rem trigger or the X-Mark?
Look through the side of the trigger housing (Small hole) with the bolt cocked and you will see how the sear engages. It should have about .020 contact across the surfaces. It should also be clean and without rust or any other contaminates. This is the most critical engagement surface of the trigger. This can be adjusted if you know how. (Varminthunters.com has instructions on their FAQ page) It's actually very easy to adjust the trigger, but just make sure the engagement is the actual problem.
Next, remove the bolt and look at the top of the trigger assembly in the action. You should see the housing and the section in the middle that looks like it is chromed. If the chromed area is chipped, you need a new trigger.
Lay the bolt belly up with the nose facing away from you and the handle on the left side. On the side closest to you, you will see under the shroud another chromed looking part with a notch cut out of it. The back part is where the trigger grabs the firing pin assembly and holds it back. Make sure that is clean too. Most likely not your problem though.
Is it the old Rem trigger or the X-Mark?
Look through the side of the trigger housing (Small hole) with the bolt cocked and you will see how the sear engages. It should have about .020 contact across the surfaces. It should also be clean and without rust or any other contaminates. This is the most critical engagement surface of the trigger. This can be adjusted if you know how. (Varminthunters.com has instructions on their FAQ page) It's actually very easy to adjust the trigger, but just make sure the engagement is the actual problem.
Next, remove the bolt and look at the top of the trigger assembly in the action. You should see the housing and the section in the middle that looks like it is chromed. If the chromed area is chipped, you need a new trigger.
Lay the bolt belly up with the nose facing away from you and the handle on the left side. On the side closest to you, you will see under the shroud another chromed looking part with a notch cut out of it. The back part is where the trigger grabs the firing pin assembly and holds it back. Make sure that is clean too. Most likely not your problem though.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
the sear does not engage, it catches just a tad but slips tite by.
heres a few more pics, dont know if its stock? its on a GAP made rifle.
the sear does not engage, it catches just a tad but slips tite by.
heres a few more pics, dont know if its stock? its on a GAP made rifle.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
The upper contact portion looks extremely worn. The edge should not be rounded like that. Time for a new trigger...
The upper contact portion looks extremely worn. The edge should not be rounded like that. Time for a new trigger...
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
ok mike thanks, weres a good place to buy one?
ok mike thanks, weres a good place to buy one?
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
Can't help you there. I've never bought an aftermarket trigger.
I once owned a Shilen and it was great, but I let it go with the rifle it was on.
I tune and adjust my own triggers and have never experienced a malfunction. It's really pretty easy to do.
Maybe someone in the classifieds has an old style Remington like yours for sale.
Good luck
Can't help you there. I've never bought an aftermarket trigger.
I once owned a Shilen and it was great, but I let it go with the rifle it was on.
I tune and adjust my own triggers and have never experienced a malfunction. It's really pretty easy to do.
Maybe someone in the classifieds has an old style Remington like yours for sale.
Good luck
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
thanks again mike
thanks again mike
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
Gap built eh? Did you buy it or have it built by them? If so I'd contact them and ask what they think first.
Otherwise look up M700 Timney select best price that appears. They're good triggers, relatively affordable, easy to install and adjust, crisp and creep free, slightly wider shoe which some find objectionable. There are other choices, but I can't speak of them, other than that when I was looking they were more expensive.
Option B find a used factory trigger and hope its not worn out, or abused.
Gap built eh? Did you buy it or have it built by them? If so I'd contact them and ask what they think first.
Otherwise look up M700 Timney select best price that appears. They're good triggers, relatively affordable, easy to install and adjust, crisp and creep free, slightly wider shoe which some find objectionable. There are other choices, but I can't speak of them, other than that when I was looking they were more expensive.
Option B find a used factory trigger and hope its not worn out, or abused.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
i tryed contacting them via email befor on another issue, they never bothered to email me back. i will keep timmney in mind thank you.
i tryed contacting them via email befor on another issue, they never bothered to email me back. i will keep timmney in mind thank you.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
FG - If you have some "Cold Blue", with a swab, put some on the sear where the cocking piece makes contact - and also where the cocking piece starts to ride over the sear, as it moves forward, depressing the sear. If the sear colors the chrome plating is warn through increasing the coefficient of friction at the mating surface of the sear and cocking piece.
Typically when this occurs, the rifle will "fail to fire" when the trigger is intentionally pulled, but will instead discharge when the bolt is touched --- which is not the malfunction you are describing.
What you are describing is what Remington has termed an "FSR", or fire on safety release.
The FSR is the most common form of malfunction associated to this trigger design, as evidenced internally by the manufacturer as early as April 1947, which predates release of this fire control in the M/721 by roughly 11 months, which was released to the public in March of 1948.
The FSR malfunction has been a very persistent form of malfunction for Remington, and the public.... Also, the powder metal used for the sear was a poor choice of material, not suitable for sear construction. Powder Metal was used as a cost saving measure that increased the instances of fire control malfunctions after it was adopted in about 1968.
Replace the fire control and never look back! I would also recommend that you destroy the offending fire control to ensure that it does not find its way into someone's rifle in the future.
Aug
FG - If you have some "Cold Blue", with a swab, put some on the sear where the cocking piece makes contact - and also where the cocking piece starts to ride over the sear, as it moves forward, depressing the sear. If the sear colors the chrome plating is warn through increasing the coefficient of friction at the mating surface of the sear and cocking piece.
Typically when this occurs, the rifle will "fail to fire" when the trigger is intentionally pulled, but will instead discharge when the bolt is touched --- which is not the malfunction you are describing.
What you are describing is what Remington has termed an "FSR", or fire on safety release.
The FSR is the most common form of malfunction associated to this trigger design, as evidenced internally by the manufacturer as early as April 1947, which predates release of this fire control in the M/721 by roughly 11 months, which was released to the public in March of 1948.
The FSR malfunction has been a very persistent form of malfunction for Remington, and the public.... Also, the powder metal used for the sear was a poor choice of material, not suitable for sear construction. Powder Metal was used as a cost saving measure that increased the instances of fire control malfunctions after it was adopted in about 1968.
Replace the fire control and never look back! I would also recommend that you destroy the offending fire control to ensure that it does not find its way into someone's rifle in the future.
Aug
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
It can be salvaged, but most likely you have lost confidence in the part.
A Tmney 510 is an excellent choice and uses a different type of safety.
Please do not destroy the trigger. I will be more than happy to take it off your hands and add it to my collection of spare parts.
It can be salvaged, but most likely you have lost confidence in the part.
A Tmney 510 is an excellent choice and uses a different type of safety.
Please do not destroy the trigger. I will be more than happy to take it off your hands and add it to my collection of spare parts.
Re: modle 700 trigger problem
It looks like a 40x trigger donuts to dollars it's out of adjustment. Possible sear is adjusted just out of spec. Also why is is covered with some sort of oil spray. You stated you sprayed it with a solvent.Use break free or brake cleander to dislove the "oil" like overcoat. Remember NO OIL OR GREASE IN A TRIGGER.
Get the instructions for a 40x trigger and reset it before you spend a lot of money to replace it.
It looks like a 40x trigger donuts to dollars it's out of adjustment. Possible sear is adjusted just out of spec. Also why is is covered with some sort of oil spray. You stated you sprayed it with a solvent.Use break free or brake cleander to dislove the "oil" like overcoat. Remember NO OIL OR GREASE IN A TRIGGER.
Get the instructions for a 40x trigger and reset it before you spend a lot of money to replace it.
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