I just purchased my first 1911. Its a Taurus pt 1911 chambered in 9mm, yeah I know not a "real" 1911. But the problem that I'm having is that I also purchased a pair of vz tactical diamond grips which feel amazing. But in the process I over tightened the handgrips and stripping one screw. Is there anyway to get it out without damaging the new grips?
Gunsmithing Removing stripped allen bolts from handgrips
- Thread starter moto
- Start date
Re: Removing stripped allen bolts from handgrips
If it has the "real" bushings in the frame for the grip screws, you can take the opposing grip off and remove that bushing. That will give you clearance to drill out the screw from the stripped bushing, and then replace the bushing with a new one. If not, you probably need a machinist to mill off the head of the stripped screw and remove the stripped shank...may need a new thread cut and a different screw. There is a reason John Browning designed it that way!
If it has the "real" bushings in the frame for the grip screws, you can take the opposing grip off and remove that bushing. That will give you clearance to drill out the screw from the stripped bushing, and then replace the bushing with a new one. If not, you probably need a machinist to mill off the head of the stripped screw and remove the stripped shank...may need a new thread cut and a different screw. There is a reason John Browning designed it that way!
Re: Removing stripped allen bolts from handgrips
Yes, but it will involve a bit of finesse.
First, get a drill bit that is the same size as the OD of the threads holding the grip on ( use the other screw as a guage). A little larger is OK, but not too much.
Secure the pistol ( unloaded etc ) on a sandbag or leather rest, something firm, that won't mar your treasure. Enlist a friend or a large child to hold the pistol while you drill the head ( only ) of the offending screw. Just as you drill thru the head, it should peel off the shank ( the threaded part of the screw ) allowing you to remove the grip. Grasp the part of the screw still remaining with your favorite Cajun wrench ( small visegrips for the rest of the world) and run it out.
Problem solved, with a hand drill, bag and pliers.
If you can find a LH twist bit, or push a screw extractor into the head that would also work. I've also driven a Torx bit into the head of a stubborn Allen head, and removed it that way.
Yes, but it will involve a bit of finesse.
First, get a drill bit that is the same size as the OD of the threads holding the grip on ( use the other screw as a guage). A little larger is OK, but not too much.
Secure the pistol ( unloaded etc ) on a sandbag or leather rest, something firm, that won't mar your treasure. Enlist a friend or a large child to hold the pistol while you drill the head ( only ) of the offending screw. Just as you drill thru the head, it should peel off the shank ( the threaded part of the screw ) allowing you to remove the grip. Grasp the part of the screw still remaining with your favorite Cajun wrench ( small visegrips for the rest of the world) and run it out.
Problem solved, with a hand drill, bag and pliers.
If you can find a LH twist bit, or push a screw extractor into the head that would also work. I've also driven a Torx bit into the head of a stubborn Allen head, and removed it that way.
Re: Removing stripped allen bolts from handgrips
Did you use any loctite? If so get a soldering iron with a small tip. Place it on the screw head and let it heat soak. A dab of ATF or (crazy, but true) antifreeze for your car on the screw will help loosen it up.
If its a hex socket type screw buy yourself a set of torx inserts. Get good ones, not the $1.99 grab bin stuff at the autoparts store. Find the biggest one that'll just barely fit into the hole. Drive it deep into the socket with a ball peen hammer. Again heat the part. I use a micro crack torch and heat up the bit. The heat will conduct through the bit and into the screw. It won't take much. About 15 seconds worth. Now apply serious downward pressure and attempt to back it out. Use an easy/progressive pressure as you twist it, but keep the downward pressure applied heavily to ensure the torx bit doesn't slip out of the hole.
This has worked for me 9/10 times on stubborn base screws. The torx serves as any easy out. Only it actually works instead of just reaming the hole bigger as it attempts to bite. The torx bit being driven into the hole where the socket was cold forms the screw 1:1 to the bit. 100% contact/bite forms as a result.
No machine work required.
Good luck.
C.
Did you use any loctite? If so get a soldering iron with a small tip. Place it on the screw head and let it heat soak. A dab of ATF or (crazy, but true) antifreeze for your car on the screw will help loosen it up.
If its a hex socket type screw buy yourself a set of torx inserts. Get good ones, not the $1.99 grab bin stuff at the autoparts store. Find the biggest one that'll just barely fit into the hole. Drive it deep into the socket with a ball peen hammer. Again heat the part. I use a micro crack torch and heat up the bit. The heat will conduct through the bit and into the screw. It won't take much. About 15 seconds worth. Now apply serious downward pressure and attempt to back it out. Use an easy/progressive pressure as you twist it, but keep the downward pressure applied heavily to ensure the torx bit doesn't slip out of the hole.
This has worked for me 9/10 times on stubborn base screws. The torx serves as any easy out. Only it actually works instead of just reaming the hole bigger as it attempts to bite. The torx bit being driven into the hole where the socket was cold forms the screw 1:1 to the bit. 100% contact/bite forms as a result.
No machine work required.
Good luck.
C.
Re: Removing stripped allen bolts from handgrips
I had a stripped allen screw on my docter red dot. I tried using various torx wrenches with kroil that all failed at grabbing some metal to extract the screw. As a last ditch effort, I used a very small carbide tipped ball tool for a dremel to score some lines and then very carfully grind away enough metal to get a flat head screw driver in. That helped get it out and there wasnt any damage to my Docter or the finish.
I had a stripped allen screw on my docter red dot. I tried using various torx wrenches with kroil that all failed at grabbing some metal to extract the screw. As a last ditch effort, I used a very small carbide tipped ball tool for a dremel to score some lines and then very carfully grind away enough metal to get a flat head screw driver in. That helped get it out and there wasnt any damage to my Docter or the finish.
Re: Removing stripped allen bolts from handgrips
Pictures!
What Dixon said works well.
Man I wish all screw heads were torx. well not all
Pictures!
What Dixon said works well.
Man I wish all screw heads were torx. well not all
Re: Removing stripped allen bolts from handgrips
If you fumble on the first attempt with the torx, just keep going bigger.....it will come out.
If you fumble on the first attempt with the torx, just keep going bigger.....it will come out.
Most of the above should get it done but I would like to emphasis using a left hand drill bit. I bought a set from McMaster Carr
just for this sort of thing. Very often, the vibrations and heat caused from the drilling will catch on the fastener and simply
unscrew it. As I consider the Torx expendable in this sort of adventure, If the next larger size Torx is too large, you can grid off the
tip of the one that does fit a bit to allow it to go deeper into the cold formed socket. If you look closely, you will see that the Torx
head has a taper to it. By going deeper you are in effect making it a half size Torx larger bit.
Post #2 has the advantage is that you have right hand bits on hand and drilling from the back side will tend to heat, and vibrate
and un-screw the screw in the right hand panel. The bushing may also act as a guide for your drill if your screw is below the
bushing surface.
Lowes and Home Depot have sets of screw removal tools.. They consist of very stubby left hand bits and stubby easy out tips.
As for screw extractors, I would get the square, sharp edged tapered type. The helical type don't have crisp edges to bite into
the fastener.
They make socket head screw extractors and they are essentially a tapered hex shape.
The way I see it.... absolute worst case, you drill out the screw unitil the head comes off and you have to replace the bushing.
I think you should be safe doing it. I would let you do mine based on everyone's posts.
just for this sort of thing. Very often, the vibrations and heat caused from the drilling will catch on the fastener and simply
unscrew it. As I consider the Torx expendable in this sort of adventure, If the next larger size Torx is too large, you can grid off the
tip of the one that does fit a bit to allow it to go deeper into the cold formed socket. If you look closely, you will see that the Torx
head has a taper to it. By going deeper you are in effect making it a half size Torx larger bit.
Post #2 has the advantage is that you have right hand bits on hand and drilling from the back side will tend to heat, and vibrate
and un-screw the screw in the right hand panel. The bushing may also act as a guide for your drill if your screw is below the
bushing surface.
Lowes and Home Depot have sets of screw removal tools.. They consist of very stubby left hand bits and stubby easy out tips.
As for screw extractors, I would get the square, sharp edged tapered type. The helical type don't have crisp edges to bite into
the fastener.
They make socket head screw extractors and they are essentially a tapered hex shape.
The way I see it.... absolute worst case, you drill out the screw unitil the head comes off and you have to replace the bushing.
I think you should be safe doing it. I would let you do mine based on everyone's posts.
Attachments
When you install the new one, don't tighten it so much.
^^^^^^^
Yeah, a lotta help that info is....
^^^^^^^
Yeah, a lotta help that info is....
