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Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

I Am Hero

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 29, 2011
780
1
33
Grand Rapids, MI
Hey guys, I just recently started reloading for my 40 S&W using Winchester and Federal Brass. I am using the Lee Breechlock Challenger kit with Lee dies.

The problem that I am having is that the bullet keeps bulging on one side of the brass. Even if I eyeball the bullet the entire way as I seat it into the brass to make sure it is even, I am still coming out with a bulge in the brass.

I am reloading Rainier 165gr Hollow Points.

The loads shoot fine out of my gun and feed without any hiccups, but I would like to find out why the factory loads aren't bulged at all and mine are bulging.

When I shoot the loads, it expands the brass to be flush with the chamber again. I just feel that if there is a bulge it isn't seated evenly and will affect accuracy.

OAL 1.135"

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Re: Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

Common malady with pistol cases. They size down enough that they will fit into any chamber.

Is it just bulged in the area where the bullet sits? If so, nothing to be alarmed about, just go shoot.
 
Re: Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

Yea it is just bulged out where the bullet itself sits. I was wondering about whether the factory sizer die was crimping them small enough to fit in any chamber like you mentioned. So that is common among pistol cartridges then?
 
Re: Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

If the bulge is way on one side because of uneven seating, you can improve the results by making a custom nose punch for the seating die. You mention a hollow point bullet. If you will center drill the seating punch over size and fill the resultant hole with epoxy to form a centering ram for the hollow point, the bullet will better seat in the case. What I do, is to take the die apart, clean it and wax the interior of the die and the exterior of the seating nose punch. Leave the large hole in the tip clean and rough. Barely size the mouth of the case you are going to use just so it firmly holds the bullet you want to seat and ease the new bullet partially down into the case. It should then be very close to a no run-out condition. Wax the case and bullet and run the ram up so the case and bullet are fully inside the die with the nose punch removed. Fill the punch end with epoxy, and screw it into the die until you can feel gentle pressure against the bullet nose. Allow it to harden overnight. Separate and clean the die parts, reassemble and adjust the depth you want, and seat away.
 
Re: Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aloreman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">redding makes a 90 dollar sizing die to remedy that problem </div></div>

Redding makes great products but in this case Lee does the same thing but less than half the cost.
Buy this
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/289675/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die-40-s-and-w-10mm-auto
Throw away the crimping portion!

Add this to what's left of the FCD
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/882261/lee-bulge-buster-base-sizing-kit-380-auto-40-s-and-w-45-acp

I run all my 40 brass thru the Lee set up and have had zero problems from bulged 40 brass.
 
Re: Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

you can all so open up the case mouth with you belling die a little more but not much.this has helped me for the same reason.or you can just run with what you got and keep shooting.for me its just a personal thing the mind lets most of us have.
 
Re: Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

The new redding die doesnt knock the bulge out of the base it resizes the brass to two separate diameters so you dont get the bulged look around the bullet
 
Re: Problems with 40 S&W Bulging Brass

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If the bulge is way on one side because of uneven seating, you can improve the results by making a custom nose punch for the seating die. You mention a hollow point bullet. If you will center drill the seating punch over size and fill the resultant hole with epoxy to form a centering ram for the hollow point, the bullet will better seat in the case. What I do, is to take the die apart, clean it and wax the interior of the die and the exterior of the seating nose punch. Leave the large hole in the tip clean and rough. Barely size the mouth of the case you are going to use just so it firmly holds the bullet you want to seat and ease the new bullet partially down into the case. It should then be very close to a no run-out condition. Wax the case and bullet and run the ram up so the case and bullet are fully inside the die with the nose punch removed. Fill the punch end with epoxy, and screw it into the die until you can feel gentle pressure against the bullet nose. Allow it to harden overnight. Separate and clean the die parts, reassemble and adjust the depth you want, and seat away. </div></div>

THIS ^^^^^^!! 100%
FNP is right on.....
Reloaded some .380, same issue, perty much what I came up with.

N