Getting ready to send my barreled action to GAP for some work . Trying to decide between the Surefire brake , Titan brake, or no brake at all. The gun will be used for everything from hunting to target shooting. TIA
- Thread starter wade-19
- Start date
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
I like brakes, but not on hunting rigs. I'd do something like the RAD Rapid Brake or the Benchmark Barrels Brake that doesn't require it to be timed and is easy on and off. Just have GAP thread it and put a thread protector on it.
I like brakes, but not on hunting rigs. I'd do something like the RAD Rapid Brake or the Benchmark Barrels Brake that doesn't require it to be timed and is easy on and off. Just have GAP thread it and put a thread protector on it.
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
If you're using it for hunting I wouldn't get a brake because of the concussion and noise. However, if you plan on getting a Surefire can, then I would go with the Surefire brake, so you can hunt suppressed and not worry about ear pro at all. I love my Surefire brake, and I have a can on the way now.
If you're using it for hunting I wouldn't get a brake because of the concussion and noise. However, if you plan on getting a Surefire can, then I would go with the Surefire brake, so you can hunt suppressed and not worry about ear pro at all. I love my Surefire brake, and I have a can on the way now.
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For a hunting rig I wouldnt do it. There is no need.</div></div>
Actually it will be my one and only everything rig
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For a hunting rig I wouldnt do it. There is no need.</div></div>
Actually it will be my one and only everything rig
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
I tried a brake for a half a hunting season, I don't care how bad the rifle kicks the noise and back blast ain't worth it.
Makes it almost impossible for someone to spot for you...
Make sure it removable...
Dave
I tried a brake for a half a hunting season, I don't care how bad the rifle kicks the noise and back blast ain't worth it.
Makes it almost impossible for someone to spot for you...
Make sure it removable...
Dave
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
I would never get a brake for a hunting rifle.
I am getting one on my 300 win mag because it is a long range precision rig that i will mostly shoot at the range and would like to shoot often.
If I ever take it out for field work, the brake is coming off.
I would never get a brake for a hunting rifle.
I am getting one on my 300 win mag because it is a long range precision rig that i will mostly shoot at the range and would like to shoot often.
If I ever take it out for field work, the brake is coming off.
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
This gun will see more range time than hunting. We only get two weeks for rifle season .
This gun will see more range time than hunting. We only get two weeks for rifle season .
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
Get a brake. The RAD rapid brake or a FTE style brake that has a "pinch bolt" is a great idea. When the rifle is used for hunting, take the brake off and install a thread protector.
Get a brake. The RAD rapid brake or a FTE style brake that has a "pinch bolt" is a great idea. When the rifle is used for hunting, take the brake off and install a thread protector.
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
OK , so the RAD brake does not need to be timed ? I can just have GAP thread my barrel and I can screw the brake on and off as I please ?
OK , so the RAD brake does not need to be timed ? I can just have GAP thread my barrel and I can screw the brake on and off as I please ?
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wade-19</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK , so the RAD brake does not need to be timed ? I can just have GAP thread my barrel and I can screw the brake on and off as I please ? </div></div>
Correct. Here is what they look like. Pinch bolt at the bottom. Thread it on and tighten the bolt to lock it into place.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wade-19</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK , so the RAD brake does not need to be timed ? I can just have GAP thread my barrel and I can screw the brake on and off as I please ? </div></div>
Correct. Here is what they look like. Pinch bolt at the bottom. Thread it on and tighten the bolt to lock it into place.
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
Just so I understand, I wouldn't need to send a RAD brake to GAP with the barreled action ? I could just have them thread the barrel and screw the brake on when I get it back without having to have it timed ?
Just so I understand, I wouldn't need to send a RAD brake to GAP with the barreled action ? I could just have them thread the barrel and screw the brake on when I get it back without having to have it timed ?
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
If you are gonna get a can go Surefire... If not go removable..
If you are gonna get a can go Surefire... If not go removable..
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wade-19</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just so I understand, I wouldn't need to send a RAD brake to GAP with the barreled action ? I could just have them thread the barrel and screw the brake on when I get it back without having to have it timed ? </div></div>
The RAD brake does need to be timed for proper install...best to send it to GAP with your rifle. There's a slight boss at the aft end of the RAD brake that need to be faced in order for the brake to clock correctly on your particular barrel. I imagine you could try to get away with shims to index the brake correctly if you really had an opposition to sending the brake in.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wade-19</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just so I understand, I wouldn't need to send a RAD brake to GAP with the barreled action ? I could just have them thread the barrel and screw the brake on when I get it back without having to have it timed ? </div></div>
The RAD brake does need to be timed for proper install...best to send it to GAP with your rifle. There's a slight boss at the aft end of the RAD brake that need to be faced in order for the brake to clock correctly on your particular barrel. I imagine you could try to get away with shims to index the brake correctly if you really had an opposition to sending the brake in.
Re: Need advice from the experienced .......
Wade, I just got finished timing my AAC brake on a threaded AAC-SD and I plan to leave the brake on for most everything but when I hunt with it (once or twice a year), I will put the thread protector back on. Kind of the best of both worlds and it will support a can at some point in the future.
Mike
Wade, I just got finished timing my AAC brake on a threaded AAC-SD and I plan to leave the brake on for most everything but when I hunt with it (once or twice a year), I will put the thread protector back on. Kind of the best of both worlds and it will support a can at some point in the future.
Mike
