I'm finally starting to get a grasp on the calculations but there is still so much to learn. I've only been able to hit 500 yards twice and I truly think it was by accident. I was definitely trying to hit it but I was using holdover instead of using the proper turret adjustment because the calculations just were not making sense to me. Fast forward two weeks to now and I finally figured out what I was doing wrong. So my question is when you guys have all your adjustments written on your DOPE cards, 100 yards 200 yards etc... and you know how many mils or moa of adjustment you need to hit the target at varying distances do you use a computer generated ballistics chart that uses alt, baro, wind etc.. to get you on target first and then use your DOPE cards to fine tune? With wind altering the effect so much I can't imagine you would carry a dope card for every mph of wind increment right?
Range Report DOPE question from a DOPE
- Thread starter Ultraman550
- Start date
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
first you neeed to buy a data book...
http://www.stormtactical.com/
a ballistic calculator will help you get on target.
you can fine tune your dope at the range. and you will have dope for different wind at 5 mph intervals. you should come to our match May 5th.
first you neeed to buy a data book...
http://www.stormtactical.com/
a ballistic calculator will help you get on target.
you can fine tune your dope at the range. and you will have dope for different wind at 5 mph intervals. you should come to our match May 5th.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DFOOSKING</div><div class="ubbcode-body">JBM ballistic calculator.....google it.
Get a basic card made and go out and confirm the dopes. The card also has 10mph full value wind holds which you can use to apply to the actual conditions.
The trick is learning how your rifle shoots when the conditions change from week to the next and why. That's where experience comes in...
</div></div>
+1 if you use an iPhone BulletFlight is an app that I use. Oh, and get a data book.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DFOOSKING</div><div class="ubbcode-body">JBM ballistic calculator.....google it.
Get a basic card made and go out and confirm the dopes. The card also has 10mph full value wind holds which you can use to apply to the actual conditions.
The trick is learning how your rifle shoots when the conditions change from week to the next and why. That's where experience comes in...
</div></div>
+1 if you use an iPhone BulletFlight is an app that I use. Oh, and get a data book.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
Definitely get a data book. www.impactdatabooks.com has more pages than any other company and has one for whatever you plan to shoot at. Also has many reticle hold pages and other pages. Too much to list. They were the first modular data book and the best on the market.
JBM Ballistics is also a great site to use. I use it for all my match data as I don't have over 400 yards to shoot so when I need longer data or environmental specific data I use JBM.
Definitely get a data book. www.impactdatabooks.com has more pages than any other company and has one for whatever you plan to shoot at. Also has many reticle hold pages and other pages. Too much to list. They were the first modular data book and the best on the market.
JBM Ballistics is also a great site to use. I use it for all my match data as I don't have over 400 yards to shoot so when I need longer data or environmental specific data I use JBM.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
get a ballistic program that you can print charts they will be very close you don't always have to have a program with you all the time when your shooting your data card will work just fine if you have close temps and barometric pressure, i have shooter on my i phone and it works great but i don't need it i have the darrell holland ballistic cd that prints cards for you that would fit in your stock pack and the disk is only forty dollars it works great i use it all the time and has been very accurate for me, get one of those and practice practice practice, you can't just go out there and because you might have a iPhone with a shooter apt doesn't mean your going to hit the target, practice in the wind.
get a ballistic program that you can print charts they will be very close you don't always have to have a program with you all the time when your shooting your data card will work just fine if you have close temps and barometric pressure, i have shooter on my i phone and it works great but i don't need it i have the darrell holland ballistic cd that prints cards for you that would fit in your stock pack and the disk is only forty dollars it works great i use it all the time and has been very accurate for me, get one of those and practice practice practice, you can't just go out there and because you might have a iPhone with a shooter apt doesn't mean your going to hit the target, practice in the wind.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference.
I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
I will second Storm Tactical data books. I have used all the major brands and stick with the best for my applications. Most ballistic programs will need to be "tweeked" to match actual dope. Once tweeked, you can run with it by just chasing the DA.
I will second Storm Tactical data books. I have used all the major brands and stick with the best for my applications. Most ballistic programs will need to be "tweeked" to match actual dope. Once tweeked, you can run with it by just chasing the DA.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
^^^That's what I was wondering. So mainly they're just used to get on or near the target and then customizing your own DOPE thereafter. I've been trying to get out in all sorts of weather conditions to really try and improve but is there a certain time you guys will just say screw it like say 20+ mph winds, rain etc.. Obviously it's not fun laying on the ground in a torrential downpour but if you're covered under shelter do you guys still head to the range? Can rain play a major role in affecting the bullets trajectory? Rain and high winds I can imagine so, but just rain? Thanks for everybody's input.
^^^That's what I was wondering. So mainly they're just used to get on or near the target and then customizing your own DOPE thereafter. I've been trying to get out in all sorts of weather conditions to really try and improve but is there a certain time you guys will just say screw it like say 20+ mph winds, rain etc.. Obviously it's not fun laying on the ground in a torrential downpour but if you're covered under shelter do you guys still head to the range? Can rain play a major role in affecting the bullets trajectory? Rain and high winds I can imagine so, but just rain? Thanks for everybody's input.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
I just started using pssf on my Treo that has a Palm OS. It seems to work well but, the data leaves me with groups about 12 inches high at 500 yards. I chronoed the load to get accurate velocity and updated it with fresh weather data and I think that I entered all accurate data. The data that it provided was almost the same as the data that the Sierra program provided. Does anyone know if there is a way to true your zero with pssf like ATRAG? I don't really want to spend $300.00 on Atrag but, I do want data that is accurate and where I can true the zero so that I can use pure MIL holds rather than turning turrets. I have IOR scopes on my 500 yard rigs with an MP8 reticle. It is based on the MIL dot system but has hash marks and has 10 Mils. of holdover. Does it matter in second focal plane scopes what power setting the scope is at to get correct holdover?
I just started using pssf on my Treo that has a Palm OS. It seems to work well but, the data leaves me with groups about 12 inches high at 500 yards. I chronoed the load to get accurate velocity and updated it with fresh weather data and I think that I entered all accurate data. The data that it provided was almost the same as the data that the Sierra program provided. Does anyone know if there is a way to true your zero with pssf like ATRAG? I don't really want to spend $300.00 on Atrag but, I do want data that is accurate and where I can true the zero so that I can use pure MIL holds rather than turning turrets. I have IOR scopes on my 500 yard rigs with an MP8 reticle. It is based on the MIL dot system but has hash marks and has 10 Mils. of holdover. Does it matter in second focal plane scopes what power setting the scope is at to get correct holdover?
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
I mucked with my PDA and changed the velocity a number of times and found a velocity value that fit the 3 mil holdover that was used to hit steel at 500 yards. I think I need to test it at different ranges to see if changing velocity alone is the difference. Maybe I shouldn't believe my chrono.
I mucked with my PDA and changed the velocity a number of times and found a velocity value that fit the 3 mil holdover that was used to hit steel at 500 yards. I think I need to test it at different ranges to see if changing velocity alone is the difference. Maybe I shouldn't believe my chrono.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: proulxlaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just started using pssf on my Treo that has a Palm OS. It seems to work well but, the data leaves me with groups about 12 inches high at 500 yards. I chronoed the load to get accurate velocity and updated it with fresh weather data and I think that I entered all accurate data. The data that it provided was almost the same as the data that the Sierra program provided. Does anyone know if there is a way to true your zero with pssf like ATRAG? I don't really want to spend $300.00 on Atrag but, I do want data that is accurate and where I can true the zero so that I can use pure MIL holds rather than turning turrets. I have IOR scopes on my 500 yard rigs with an MP8 reticle. It is based on the MIL dot system but has hash marks and has 10 Mils. of holdover. Does it matter in second focal plane scopes what power setting the scope is at to get correct holdover? </div></div>
yes it matters. what scope do you have?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: proulxlaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just started using pssf on my Treo that has a Palm OS. It seems to work well but, the data leaves me with groups about 12 inches high at 500 yards. I chronoed the load to get accurate velocity and updated it with fresh weather data and I think that I entered all accurate data. The data that it provided was almost the same as the data that the Sierra program provided. Does anyone know if there is a way to true your zero with pssf like ATRAG? I don't really want to spend $300.00 on Atrag but, I do want data that is accurate and where I can true the zero so that I can use pure MIL holds rather than turning turrets. I have IOR scopes on my 500 yard rigs with an MP8 reticle. It is based on the MIL dot system but has hash marks and has 10 Mils. of holdover. Does it matter in second focal plane scopes what power setting the scope is at to get correct holdover? </div></div>
yes it matters. what scope do you have?
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
Within 500 yards for ringing chest-sized steel plates, I don't think there is always any significant advantage of a ballistics calculator over a DOPE card. In other words, assuming that you used the correct data and are ranging correctly, the variation of your DOPE card and ballistics calculator won't be off enough to miss the target. Of course if you are shooting in very different conditions, e.g. 5000 ft altitude at 100F vs. sea-level at below freezing, you will have variation.
Beyond 800 yards, and with smaller targets, then I think the extra time to enter data into a ballistics calculator makes sense.
Shooter ballistics calculator is a $9.99 app that you can get on the iPhone or Android, on which you are able to adjust your velocity for true drop.
Some factors that I would look at to see why your calculations are off from your true point of impact are:
1) cant, get an anti-cant device, do a search on the effect of cant
2) parallax
3) consistent rifle/scope cheekweld/eye positioning
4) wrong velocity
5) wrong range
Within 500 yards for ringing chest-sized steel plates, I don't think there is always any significant advantage of a ballistics calculator over a DOPE card. In other words, assuming that you used the correct data and are ranging correctly, the variation of your DOPE card and ballistics calculator won't be off enough to miss the target. Of course if you are shooting in very different conditions, e.g. 5000 ft altitude at 100F vs. sea-level at below freezing, you will have variation.
Beyond 800 yards, and with smaller targets, then I think the extra time to enter data into a ballistics calculator makes sense.
Shooter ballistics calculator is a $9.99 app that you can get on the iPhone or Android, on which you are able to adjust your velocity for true drop.
Some factors that I would look at to see why your calculations are off from your true point of impact are:
1) cant, get an anti-cant device, do a search on the effect of cant
2) parallax
3) consistent rifle/scope cheekweld/eye positioning
4) wrong velocity
5) wrong range
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ultraman550</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference. </div></div>
No disrespect intended but I think your logic is flawed here. 11.87 - 10.3 is 1.57 MOA elevation which is more than 1 MOA windage. Elevation and windage matter the same amount assuming you have a square target. With a chest-shaped target that is longer than it is wider, than windage would matter more.
1.57 MOA difference is about 7.85" at 500 yards, it's significance depends on the size of your target.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ultraman550</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference. </div></div>
No disrespect intended but I think your logic is flawed here. 11.87 - 10.3 is 1.57 MOA elevation which is more than 1 MOA windage. Elevation and windage matter the same amount assuming you have a square target. With a chest-shaped target that is longer than it is wider, than windage would matter more.
1.57 MOA difference is about 7.85" at 500 yards, it's significance depends on the size of your target.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vkc</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ultraman550</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference. </div></div>
No disrespect intended but I think your logic is flawed here. 11.87 - 10.3 is 1.57 MOA elevation which is more than 1 MOA windage. Elevation and windage matter the same amount assuming you have a square target. With a chest-shaped target that is longer than it is wider, than windage would matter more.
1.57 MOA difference is about 7.85" at 500 yards, it's significance depends on the size of your target. </div></div>
No disrespect taken at all, I need constructive criticism. The windage results I get are pretty different as well. FTE has me at .98, Shooter has me at .8 and another app has me at 1.2? Actually maybe this really isn't that big of a difference on closer shots but past 500 yards it is?
I guess the hardest thing is I never have a spotter so I can never tell where the bullet is going unless the bullet hits in or around the area. The most logical thing I guess would be to back the targets up to the back drop as much as possible to see where the dirt cloud is.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vkc</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ultraman550</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference. </div></div>
No disrespect intended but I think your logic is flawed here. 11.87 - 10.3 is 1.57 MOA elevation which is more than 1 MOA windage. Elevation and windage matter the same amount assuming you have a square target. With a chest-shaped target that is longer than it is wider, than windage would matter more.
1.57 MOA difference is about 7.85" at 500 yards, it's significance depends on the size of your target. </div></div>
No disrespect taken at all, I need constructive criticism. The windage results I get are pretty different as well. FTE has me at .98, Shooter has me at .8 and another app has me at 1.2? Actually maybe this really isn't that big of a difference on closer shots but past 500 yards it is?
I guess the hardest thing is I never have a spotter so I can never tell where the bullet is going unless the bullet hits in or around the area. The most logical thing I guess would be to back the targets up to the back drop as much as possible to see where the dirt cloud is.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
Or, simply gather your own DOPE: Zero at 100. Shoot at 200. Measure the drop on paper and convert it to MOA or Mils. Then shoot at 300 and do the same thing. Eventually you should have your DOPE out to 600 more-or-less memorized. You can use a ballistics program to get you started at gathering your own data under different atmospheric conditions at distances beyond that, and record your results in a data book.
Or, simply gather your own DOPE: Zero at 100. Shoot at 200. Measure the drop on paper and convert it to MOA or Mils. Then shoot at 300 and do the same thing. Eventually you should have your DOPE out to 600 more-or-less memorized. You can use a ballistics program to get you started at gathering your own data under different atmospheric conditions at distances beyond that, and record your results in a data book.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
^^^^Yeah that's what I started doing but I only got to 400. The 500 yards hit was about 3 weeks ago and like I said by accident. I was trying to hit it but I was moving that reticle around like I was break dancing. I have a rangefinder thats "supposed" to be accurate out to 1000 yards but of course that would just be lovely if it worked without a headache some times. I bought one of these to see if the distances I'm getting on the rangefinder are truly accurate.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&MERCH=REC-_-nosearch2-1-_-NA-_-202104234-_-N
^^^^Yeah that's what I started doing but I only got to 400. The 500 yards hit was about 3 weeks ago and like I said by accident. I was trying to hit it but I was moving that reticle around like I was break dancing. I have a rangefinder thats "supposed" to be accurate out to 1000 yards but of course that would just be lovely if it worked without a headache some times. I bought one of these to see if the distances I'm getting on the rangefinder are truly accurate.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&MERCH=REC-_-nosearch2-1-_-NA-_-202104234-_-N
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
you seem to be "using" three different ballistic programs and getting three different results. normal. if, for every shot you do this you will NEVER get anywhere. choose one and try it for a month. log predicted vs actual. move on. go with the one that matches your actual the best. it will not be perfect, just a guideline. imho and fwiw, paper is much better for doing this workup than steel. easier to "quantify" results.
you seem to be "using" three different ballistic programs and getting three different results. normal. if, for every shot you do this you will NEVER get anywhere. choose one and try it for a month. log predicted vs actual. move on. go with the one that matches your actual the best. it will not be perfect, just a guideline. imho and fwiw, paper is much better for doing this workup than steel. easier to "quantify" results.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
^^^I was going to test the results of each three to see which one was more accurate then use that one. But I agree, the hands on data will be what I'll use in the long run, I'm just interested to see which app will get me closest to the target and the factual data I can come up with on my own.
^^^I was going to test the results of each three to see which one was more accurate then use that one. But I agree, the hands on data will be what I'll use in the long run, I'm just interested to see which app will get me closest to the target and the factual data I can come up with on my own.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
A data book drills into you what you observe about your range data.... if you actually write down what you're doing, you have a VERY good chance of remembering a lot of it.
Shooting a 308 ( I don't know what you're shooting though ) at 500yds a lot of the factors will have an effect on your scope adjustments but, they will be pretty small ones at 500yds ( other than wind ) But, depending on the powder you use, temperature can have a major effect too. Temperature alone changes the air density a LOT but, if your muzzle velocity changes with the powder, it's a double whammy.
What gets really dicey is when you start to get out to the limits of whatever you're shooting... then ALL factors make a huge difference.... before the advent of hand held ballistic calculators, the data book was the only way to build a profile for your rifle and honestly, if you want to improve your own ability to figure it out yourself, the data book is the way to go.
I'd still get a ballistic calculator and you can't go by only your muzzle velocity based on a chrono output.. most cronos can miss by over 1 percent and that is just not close enough to calculate ballistics with at the max range of your rifle.
I go to the range with a known bullet and knowing the ballistic coefficient after shooting at range, you put in all your variables into a good ballistic calculator along with your bullet coefficient and you can adjust the muzzle velocity until you see your exact drop table show up in the ballistic calculator... this is the poor man's way to achieve a good range card.... this way when your barometric pressure changes or your temperature changes, you just change it in your calculator and let it tell you what to put on your rifle and, it should get you pretty close.
There are other set procedures to set up your ballistic computers and get them set up with your rifle and load.
A data book drills into you what you observe about your range data.... if you actually write down what you're doing, you have a VERY good chance of remembering a lot of it.
Shooting a 308 ( I don't know what you're shooting though ) at 500yds a lot of the factors will have an effect on your scope adjustments but, they will be pretty small ones at 500yds ( other than wind ) But, depending on the powder you use, temperature can have a major effect too. Temperature alone changes the air density a LOT but, if your muzzle velocity changes with the powder, it's a double whammy.
What gets really dicey is when you start to get out to the limits of whatever you're shooting... then ALL factors make a huge difference.... before the advent of hand held ballistic calculators, the data book was the only way to build a profile for your rifle and honestly, if you want to improve your own ability to figure it out yourself, the data book is the way to go.
I'd still get a ballistic calculator and you can't go by only your muzzle velocity based on a chrono output.. most cronos can miss by over 1 percent and that is just not close enough to calculate ballistics with at the max range of your rifle.
I go to the range with a known bullet and knowing the ballistic coefficient after shooting at range, you put in all your variables into a good ballistic calculator along with your bullet coefficient and you can adjust the muzzle velocity until you see your exact drop table show up in the ballistic calculator... this is the poor man's way to achieve a good range card.... this way when your barometric pressure changes or your temperature changes, you just change it in your calculator and let it tell you what to put on your rifle and, it should get you pretty close.
There are other set procedures to set up your ballistic computers and get them set up with your rifle and load.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jwoolf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A data book drills into you what you observe about your range data.... if you actually write down what you're doing, you have a VERY good chance of remembering a lot of it.
Shooting a 308 ( I don't know what you're shooting though ) at 500yds a lot of the factors will have an effect on your scope adjustments but, they will be pretty small ones at 500yds ( other than wind ) But, depending on the powder you use, temperature can have a major effect too. Temperature alone changes the air density a LOT but, if your muzzle velocity changes with the powder, it's a double whammy.
What gets really dicey is when you start to get out to the limits of whatever you're shooting... then ALL factors make a huge difference.... before the advent of hand held ballistic calculators, the data book was the only way to build a profile for your rifle and honestly, if you want to improve your own ability to figure it out yourself, the data book is the way to go.
I'd still get a ballistic calculator and you can't go by only your muzzle velocity based on a chrono output.. most cronos can miss by over 1 percent and that is just not close enough to calculate ballistics with at the max range of your rifle.
I go to the range with a known bullet and knowing the ballistic coefficient after shooting at range, you put in all your variables into a good ballistic calculator along with your bullet coefficient and you can adjust the muzzle velocity until you see your exact drop table show up in the ballistic calculator... this is the poor man's way to achieve a good range card.... this way when your barometric pressure changes or your temperature changes, you just change it in your calculator and let it tell you what to put on your rifle and, it should get you pretty close.
There are other set procedures to set up your ballistic computers and get them set up with your rifle and load.
</div></div>
Loks like I need to start reloading like all of you gents. Theres just too much inconsistency with store bought ammo even if its Federal SMK right I'm guessing. I ordered a book with all the trimmings from Impact Data so now the fun begins.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jwoolf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A data book drills into you what you observe about your range data.... if you actually write down what you're doing, you have a VERY good chance of remembering a lot of it.
Shooting a 308 ( I don't know what you're shooting though ) at 500yds a lot of the factors will have an effect on your scope adjustments but, they will be pretty small ones at 500yds ( other than wind ) But, depending on the powder you use, temperature can have a major effect too. Temperature alone changes the air density a LOT but, if your muzzle velocity changes with the powder, it's a double whammy.
What gets really dicey is when you start to get out to the limits of whatever you're shooting... then ALL factors make a huge difference.... before the advent of hand held ballistic calculators, the data book was the only way to build a profile for your rifle and honestly, if you want to improve your own ability to figure it out yourself, the data book is the way to go.
I'd still get a ballistic calculator and you can't go by only your muzzle velocity based on a chrono output.. most cronos can miss by over 1 percent and that is just not close enough to calculate ballistics with at the max range of your rifle.
I go to the range with a known bullet and knowing the ballistic coefficient after shooting at range, you put in all your variables into a good ballistic calculator along with your bullet coefficient and you can adjust the muzzle velocity until you see your exact drop table show up in the ballistic calculator... this is the poor man's way to achieve a good range card.... this way when your barometric pressure changes or your temperature changes, you just change it in your calculator and let it tell you what to put on your rifle and, it should get you pretty close.
There are other set procedures to set up your ballistic computers and get them set up with your rifle and load.
</div></div>
Loks like I need to start reloading like all of you gents. Theres just too much inconsistency with store bought ammo even if its Federal SMK right I'm guessing. I ordered a book with all the trimmings from Impact Data so now the fun begins.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
[/quote]
Loks like I need to start reloading like all of you gents. Theres just too much inconsistency with store bought ammo even if its Federal SMK right I'm guessing. I ordered a book with all the trimmings from Impact Data so now the fun begins. [/quote]
I think you hit the hammer on the nail. Reloading makes a big difference.
[/quote]
Loks like I need to start reloading like all of you gents. Theres just too much inconsistency with store bought ammo even if its Federal SMK right I'm guessing. I ordered a book with all the trimmings from Impact Data so now the fun begins. [/quote]
I think you hit the hammer on the nail. Reloading makes a big difference.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ultraman550</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference. </div></div>
This is an easy one.
Get a Kestrel that will use DA and calibrate it.
You can do this at home using Google Earth
Open Google Earth and zoom down to street level at you current location with the Kestrel in your hand and put that elevation in the Kestrel.
Now you are almost ready to go out and shoot.
You will need to have the rifle zeroed for 100yards/meters and a large target board.
Shoot the target at 200,300,400,500 and 600 using 3 rounds for each of the distances.
Note that the distances shot must dead on down to the inch.
You will need a steel tape for this.
For each distance shot you will need to note the actual drop form the point of aim.
Find this screen in Shooter (click the arrow tab in the right hand corner when in the table screen and select velocity calibration}
Now enter the actual drops and hit the calculate button.
This will give you your actual MV.
When you have the actual MV and use a calibrated Kestrel you now be spot on for DOPE.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ultraman550</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Basllistic FTE, Shooter and MD Ballistic on my iPhone and iPad. Even with the exact same information in the three programs there is a marginal gap in adjustment between FTE and Shooter. FTE has me at 11.87 MOA elevation and shooter has me at 10.3 when I'm trying for 500 yards. Will this will make a big difference at 500? I know windage is a different story as 1 MOA will make a big difference. </div></div>
This is an easy one.
Get a Kestrel that will use DA and calibrate it.
You can do this at home using Google Earth
Open Google Earth and zoom down to street level at you current location with the Kestrel in your hand and put that elevation in the Kestrel.
Now you are almost ready to go out and shoot.
You will need to have the rifle zeroed for 100yards/meters and a large target board.
Shoot the target at 200,300,400,500 and 600 using 3 rounds for each of the distances.
Note that the distances shot must dead on down to the inch.
You will need a steel tape for this.
For each distance shot you will need to note the actual drop form the point of aim.
Find this screen in Shooter (click the arrow tab in the right hand corner when in the table screen and select velocity calibration}
Now enter the actual drops and hit the calculate button.
This will give you your actual MV.
When you have the actual MV and use a calibrated Kestrel you now be spot on for DOPE.
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
I forgot to enter your scope calibartion into the equation.
This is off Lindys page,lots of good info in here and a thanks goes out to him.
http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/ScopeChecking/
I forgot to enter your scope calibartion into the equation.
This is off Lindys page,lots of good info in here and a thanks goes out to him.
http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/ScopeChecking/
Re: DOPE question from a DOPE
Yes, you need to load your own and tune a load that runs the best in your barrel. Once you find the one that shoots the best, stick with it.
I chrongraph the rounds as I'm testing different loads. But like other guys have said, they aren't 100% accurate. They will give you a starting point. JDM is a good one to use on the PC and print the chart. I also use "Shooter" on my phone. Depending on the situtation I'll consult both.
I may come home knowing what load shot the best in the rifle. Reproduce 50 or 100 of them, plug the numbers in JDM and print off a chart to start with next time I go out. Lately, though, I've just plugged the numbers into "Shooter" and started with what it gave me. I'll then dial those calculations and record, in the data book, what calculation "Shooter" gave me AND what actually happened in the field. And I always record the environmental conditions. I learned, with a .308, past 500 yards you've really got to factor in the environmental conditions.
I rely on "Shooter" most of the time once I get it to match field dope like others have said. But I also keep low, medium, and high DA cards with the rifle in the event of an electronic failure.
This stuff is challenging, but once you start figuring it out it is a ton of fun. Especially when you can reproduce that 500 yard shot you mentioned on command.
Yes, you need to load your own and tune a load that runs the best in your barrel. Once you find the one that shoots the best, stick with it.
I chrongraph the rounds as I'm testing different loads. But like other guys have said, they aren't 100% accurate. They will give you a starting point. JDM is a good one to use on the PC and print the chart. I also use "Shooter" on my phone. Depending on the situtation I'll consult both.
I may come home knowing what load shot the best in the rifle. Reproduce 50 or 100 of them, plug the numbers in JDM and print off a chart to start with next time I go out. Lately, though, I've just plugged the numbers into "Shooter" and started with what it gave me. I'll then dial those calculations and record, in the data book, what calculation "Shooter" gave me AND what actually happened in the field. And I always record the environmental conditions. I learned, with a .308, past 500 yards you've really got to factor in the environmental conditions.
I rely on "Shooter" most of the time once I get it to match field dope like others have said. But I also keep low, medium, and high DA cards with the rifle in the event of an electronic failure.
This stuff is challenging, but once you start figuring it out it is a ton of fun. Especially when you can reproduce that 500 yard shot you mentioned on command.
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