So after building my 10/22 (http://snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads....880#Post3236880) I am looking for any suggestions as to what might make it quieter with the can and subs? It's pretty soft already, but I wouldn't mind tips from those with experience on the subject. So far all I have gathered is to get a polymer bolt stop. Also if you don't mind, which subs are your favorites?
- Thread starter DPontius
- Start date
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
I like the Wolf MT, followed by win sub HPs. Just cant do the real high end stuff.
I like the Wolf MT, followed by win sub HPs. Just cant do the real high end stuff.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
CCI Standard Velocity. Maybe try the new CCI Quiet ammo and see if that will function in your 10/22.
Also a bolt buffer helps some.
If you really want to quiet it down, a Tactical Solutions threaded barrel and .22 suppressor will make your 10/22 one of your favorite rifles of all time.
CCI Standard Velocity. Maybe try the new CCI Quiet ammo and see if that will function in your 10/22.
Also a bolt buffer helps some.
If you really want to quiet it down, a Tactical Solutions threaded barrel and .22 suppressor will make your 10/22 one of your favorite rifles of all time.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RMW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you really want to quiet it down, a Tactical Solutions threaded barrel and .22 suppressor will make your 10/22 one of your favorite rifles of all time. </div></div>
check out the link I included my friend
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RMW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you really want to quiet it down, a Tactical Solutions threaded barrel and .22 suppressor will make your 10/22 one of your favorite rifles of all time. </div></div>
check out the link I included my friend
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
You can make or buy a bolt lock...
You can make or buy a bolt lock...
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Wolf Match Target is my favorite subsonic ammo but after years of shooting a suppressed .22 bolt action rifle, when I finally finished building my tricked out 10/22, I simply couldn't stand the action noise, even with the greatest bolt buffers - I sold it a week after I finished building it. Good luck!
Wolf Match Target is my favorite subsonic ammo but after years of shooting a suppressed .22 bolt action rifle, when I finally finished building my tricked out 10/22, I simply couldn't stand the action noise, even with the greatest bolt buffers - I sold it a week after I finished building it. Good luck!
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ivanthesane</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can make or buy a bolt lock... </div></div> I was thinking about that too...Been debating trying to do that with my Mark II as well, ever seen one with a lock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ivanthesane</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can make or buy a bolt lock... </div></div> I was thinking about that too...Been debating trying to do that with my Mark II as well, ever seen one with a lock?
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
I don't think the bolt lock is worth the money and effort. I would get a bolt action rifle, if you want to shoot quieter than the 10/22. The Savage FV-SR is a great rifle for $250.
I have a 10/22 with a tactical solutions barrel that I run my suppressor on. When I take friends out shooting, the suppressed 10/22 is the favorite of most shooters.
Last year I put a threaded barrel on my SAKO Quad and the thing is incredibly quiet. Even when manually holding the 10/22 action shut it is not as quiet as my bolt action .22.
A Ruger 96/22 in 22LR would be a pretty slick little suppressed 22 rifle.
For the Mark II, you can put your thumb over the back and hold the slide shut when firing.
I don't think the bolt lock is worth the money and effort. I would get a bolt action rifle, if you want to shoot quieter than the 10/22. The Savage FV-SR is a great rifle for $250.
I have a 10/22 with a tactical solutions barrel that I run my suppressor on. When I take friends out shooting, the suppressed 10/22 is the favorite of most shooters.
Last year I put a threaded barrel on my SAKO Quad and the thing is incredibly quiet. Even when manually holding the 10/22 action shut it is not as quiet as my bolt action .22.
A Ruger 96/22 in 22LR would be a pretty slick little suppressed 22 rifle.
For the Mark II, you can put your thumb over the back and hold the slide shut when firing.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Take a pop bottle and use it like Mark Walhberg in Shooter...
Take a pop bottle and use it like Mark Walhberg in Shooter...
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RMW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't think the bolt lock is worth the money and effort. I would get a bolt action rifle, if you want to shoot quieter than the 10/22. The Savage FV-SR is a great rifle for $250.
I have a 10/22 with a tactical solutions barrel that I run my suppressor on. When I take friends out shooting, the suppressed 10/22 is the favorite of most shooters.
Last year I put a threaded barrel on my SAKO Quad and the thing is incredibly quiet. Even when manually holding the 10/22 action shut it is not as quiet as my bolt action .22.
A Ruger 96/22 in 22LR would be a pretty slick little suppressed 22 rifle.
For the Mark II, you can put your thumb over the back and hold the slide shut when firing. </div></div>
If you have an old hard drive around, you can make your own bolt lock cheap and easy... super strong magnet from the drive, piece of metal appropriate size and shape, some anchoring cement/glue (or use steel for your metal and the rare earth magnet will do it all....)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RMW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't think the bolt lock is worth the money and effort. I would get a bolt action rifle, if you want to shoot quieter than the 10/22. The Savage FV-SR is a great rifle for $250.
I have a 10/22 with a tactical solutions barrel that I run my suppressor on. When I take friends out shooting, the suppressed 10/22 is the favorite of most shooters.
Last year I put a threaded barrel on my SAKO Quad and the thing is incredibly quiet. Even when manually holding the 10/22 action shut it is not as quiet as my bolt action .22.
A Ruger 96/22 in 22LR would be a pretty slick little suppressed 22 rifle.
For the Mark II, you can put your thumb over the back and hold the slide shut when firing. </div></div>
If you have an old hard drive around, you can make your own bolt lock cheap and easy... super strong magnet from the drive, piece of metal appropriate size and shape, some anchoring cement/glue (or use steel for your metal and the rare earth magnet will do it all....)
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs
you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Switch your action to Primary Weapons Systems T3 Summit Action
Switch your action to Primary Weapons Systems T3 Summit Action
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
The X-Ring is the smoothest 10/22 style action out there.
The PWS Action is an entirely different animal.
If you want your semi 10/22 to be quieter, it may be easiest to have two guns. Keep you X-Ring and pick up a PWS for when you want things real quiet.
If you're on a budget, you can get a Savage FV-SR for about half the price of the PWS action.
The X-Ring is the smoothest 10/22 style action out there.
The PWS Action is an entirely different animal.
If you want your semi 10/22 to be quieter, it may be easiest to have two guns. Keep you X-Ring and pick up a PWS for when you want things real quiet.
If you're on a budget, you can get a Savage FV-SR for about half the price of the PWS action.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Yeah I love TacSol and everything they make. I'm gonna keep my receiver for now...I can get an FV-SR and drop it in a Tacticool later if I want to. I probably will eventually. I get bored and have no self control.
Yeah I love TacSol and everything they make. I'm gonna keep my receiver for now...I can get an FV-SR and drop it in a Tacticool later if I want to. I probably will eventually. I get bored and have no self control.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
I find CB longs to be the quietest out of mine, largely because they don't cycle the action. Range is obviously limited, but just fine for backyard pests.
I didn't find the polymer bolt stop pin to make much difference, but that may be subjective.
I find CB longs to be the quietest out of mine, largely because they don't cycle the action. Range is obviously limited, but just fine for backyard pests.
I didn't find the polymer bolt stop pin to make much difference, but that may be subjective.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs </div></div>
Don't do this. It's a federal crime unless you get the $200 tax stamp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs </div></div>
Don't do this. It's a federal crime unless you get the $200 tax stamp
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc awesome</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs </div></div>
Don't do this. It's a federal crime unless you get the $200 tax stamp </div></div>
Thanks for your concern doc, but there have been extensive arguments on this topic. I have cans, I don't have a need for water bottles either way. Just saw it a few times and knew it worked pretty well.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc awesome</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs </div></div>
Don't do this. It's a federal crime unless you get the $200 tax stamp </div></div>
Thanks for your concern doc, but there have been extensive arguments on this topic. I have cans, I don't have a need for water bottles either way. Just saw it a few times and knew it worked pretty well.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
here's what it sounds like as of now- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v09EdO0uS...3bUuU8JqvKsbeE=
I will put the buffer in when it comes and take another video.
here's what it sounds like as of now- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v09EdO0uS...3bUuU8JqvKsbeE=
I will put the buffer in when it comes and take another video.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
I have had 2 10/22 internal trigger group integrated Boltlocks . Nobody makes one for retail sales yet than can go the distance of more than a couple bricks of ammo .
But a Boltlock Plate is pretty easy to make . just grind/file & Dremel it to the exact shape to fit the Action cut-out of bolt handle slot behind the bolt-knob .
Here one I made of stainless plate and Thread Tapped with a handle for easy handling putting in & out of Action cut-out . And a small cobalt magnet inset in a relief hole drilled . Plate fits 'real' snug on the bolt hold & easy fast to remove .
They are easy to make, last forever & a great addition if you have a suppressor on a 10/22 & want things to be quiet like a bolt action with Sub vel. ammo.
.
.
I have had 2 10/22 internal trigger group integrated Boltlocks . Nobody makes one for retail sales yet than can go the distance of more than a couple bricks of ammo .
But a Boltlock Plate is pretty easy to make . just grind/file & Dremel it to the exact shape to fit the Action cut-out of bolt handle slot behind the bolt-knob .
Here one I made of stainless plate and Thread Tapped with a handle for easy handling putting in & out of Action cut-out . And a small cobalt magnet inset in a relief hole drilled . Plate fits 'real' snug on the bolt hold & easy fast to remove .
They are easy to make, last forever & a great addition if you have a suppressor on a 10/22 & want things to be quiet like a bolt action with Sub vel. ammo.
.
.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Im kind of curious on a few things. Why do you want the bolt on the 10/22 to not move. Is it the sound the bolt makes or is there alot of noise from the gasses escaping? Also, softcock where did you get that sweet little skull on the mag release?
Im kind of curious on a few things. Why do you want the bolt on the 10/22 to not move. Is it the sound the bolt makes or is there alot of noise from the gasses escaping? Also, softcock where did you get that sweet little skull on the mag release?
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brenneman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is it the sound the bolt makes or is there alot of noise from the gasses escaping?</div></div>
Both of those are actually pretty loud - they are a significant amount of the sound you get when you fire suppressed subsonic 22 rounds out of a semiauto.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brenneman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is it the sound the bolt makes or is there alot of noise from the gasses escaping?</div></div>
Both of those are actually pretty loud - they are a significant amount of the sound you get when you fire suppressed subsonic 22 rounds out of a semiauto.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
That is the reason . Stops noise of bolt slap & a little escaping gas out of Chamber/extraction port by the back-pressure of added Suppressor . Sometimes you just want to go 'extra' quiet .
Got the Skull bolt release a few years ago off someone on Rimfirecentral , he was selling a few that he made . Maybe ? still be able to get them but canNot remember who the guy was .
The internal Trigger Group Bolt-Stops are the Catsass for 10/22 . But they are not out on retail sales yet . & may never be . Some over the past few years were let out for testing but they have not lasted well in long-term wear & tear .
Greg @ rimfiretech. has threatened that he will be releasing one the last couple years & I know he has done a bunch of metal tempering trials on the stop-plate & riding surface that makes contact on the backside of the Bolt-radius .
.
That is the reason . Stops noise of bolt slap & a little escaping gas out of Chamber/extraction port by the back-pressure of added Suppressor . Sometimes you just want to go 'extra' quiet .
Got the Skull bolt release a few years ago off someone on Rimfirecentral , he was selling a few that he made . Maybe ? still be able to get them but canNot remember who the guy was .
The internal Trigger Group Bolt-Stops are the Catsass for 10/22 . But they are not out on retail sales yet . & may never be . Some over the past few years were let out for testing but they have not lasted well in long-term wear & tear .
Greg @ rimfiretech. has threatened that he will be releasing one the last couple years & I know he has done a bunch of metal tempering trials on the stop-plate & riding surface that makes contact on the backside of the Bolt-radius .
.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc awesome</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs </div></div>
Don't do this. It's a federal crime unless you get the $200 tax stamp </div></div>
Thanks for your concern doc, but there have been extensive arguments on this topic. Slipping a water bottle on the end of your barrel is not a crime, only if you manufacture the mount that threads onto the muzzle and attaches a bottle with the intent of suppressing a weapon do you need to pay the tax stamp for it. Besides- I have cans, I don't have a need for water bottles either way. Just saw it a few times and knew it worked pretty well. </div></div>
um....you're wrong, very wrong. Anything you attach to a firearm, whether you "slip" it on or "thread" it on....that reduces the report of the gun is, by law, a suppressor and requires a $200 tax stamp. Do NOT post incorrect information like this online, or you (and some dumbass that does it and post on youtube/facebook) will be having visitors.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc awesome</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DVMPontius</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you know, I never thought about a water bottle. PROBLEM SOLVED......Actually, when done right, especially filled with shaving cream, it works surprisingly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlv3rAay-cs </div></div>
Don't do this. It's a federal crime unless you get the $200 tax stamp </div></div>
Thanks for your concern doc, but there have been extensive arguments on this topic. Slipping a water bottle on the end of your barrel is not a crime, only if you manufacture the mount that threads onto the muzzle and attaches a bottle with the intent of suppressing a weapon do you need to pay the tax stamp for it. Besides- I have cans, I don't have a need for water bottles either way. Just saw it a few times and knew it worked pretty well. </div></div>
um....you're wrong, very wrong. Anything you attach to a firearm, whether you "slip" it on or "thread" it on....that reduces the report of the gun is, by law, a suppressor and requires a $200 tax stamp. Do NOT post incorrect information like this online, or you (and some dumbass that does it and post on youtube/facebook) will be having visitors.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
also...bolt locks do NOT make a 10/22 quieter...especially suppressed. Jon Titsworth, Jr. has done extensive testing, and PROVED that a locked bolt on a 10/22 actually is LOUDER than an unlocked bolt
also...bolt locks do NOT make a 10/22 quieter...especially suppressed. Jon Titsworth, Jr. has done extensive testing, and PROVED that a locked bolt on a 10/22 actually is LOUDER than an unlocked bolt
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
IF Titsworth actually did say that (its possible, I spent one full day reading his stuff and never did again), its all the proof a person would ever need that you would be better off talking to your dog. Discounting in its entirety projectile signature, if you lock the bolt on a 10/22 and it is louder it means that the can sucks and can't handle the full blast. Any, repeat ANY firearm that can eliminate action sound is by definition quieter than one that.....get ready....has action noise.
Want your .22 to be quiet? Sell it and start over.
Get a bolt action .22 with a true, gas ported, integral barrel. Be sure the integral's diameter is larger than a standard bull barrel. In other words, if the integral you are looking at fits in a standard "bull barrel" stock, you are wasting your money. Your accuracy will go way up and the rifle will be so silent you can hear the sear break.
All the rest is mental masterbation.
IF Titsworth actually did say that (its possible, I spent one full day reading his stuff and never did again), its all the proof a person would ever need that you would be better off talking to your dog. Discounting in its entirety projectile signature, if you lock the bolt on a 10/22 and it is louder it means that the can sucks and can't handle the full blast. Any, repeat ANY firearm that can eliminate action sound is by definition quieter than one that.....get ready....has action noise.
Want your .22 to be quiet? Sell it and start over.
Get a bolt action .22 with a true, gas ported, integral barrel. Be sure the integral's diameter is larger than a standard bull barrel. In other words, if the integral you are looking at fits in a standard "bull barrel" stock, you are wasting your money. Your accuracy will go way up and the rifle will be so silent you can hear the sear break.
All the rest is mental masterbation.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">IF Titsworth actually did say that (its possible, I spent one full day reading his stuff and never did again), its all the proof a person would ever need that you would be better off talking to your dog. Discounting in its entirety projectile signature, if you lock the bolt on a 10/22 and it is louder it means that the can sucks and can't handle the full blast. Any, repeat ANY firearm that can eliminate action sound is by definition quieter than one that.....get ready....has action noise. </div></div>
so......seeing as he's done as much/more suppressor testing than anyone else in the industry.....and has taken this gained knowledge of first hand experience....you're saying He put out a shitty suppressor? Funny thing is...I have one...and it's metered as well/better than a sparrow and spectre.....so, do those suppressors suck too?
He tested the Colossic bolt lock...and gained 1/2 to 1db as compared to the unlocked, factory bolt.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">IF Titsworth actually did say that (its possible, I spent one full day reading his stuff and never did again), its all the proof a person would ever need that you would be better off talking to your dog. Discounting in its entirety projectile signature, if you lock the bolt on a 10/22 and it is louder it means that the can sucks and can't handle the full blast. Any, repeat ANY firearm that can eliminate action sound is by definition quieter than one that.....get ready....has action noise. </div></div>
so......seeing as he's done as much/more suppressor testing than anyone else in the industry.....and has taken this gained knowledge of first hand experience....you're saying He put out a shitty suppressor? Funny thing is...I have one...and it's metered as well/better than a sparrow and spectre.....so, do those suppressors suck too?
He tested the Colossic bolt lock...and gained 1/2 to 1db as compared to the unlocked, factory bolt.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
What I said above, word for word, exactly as I said it, true to the letter.
What I said above, word for word, exactly as I said it, true to the letter.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Thats Horse Shit . I hate feeding inflammatory troll bullshit that gets posted & trying to defend a side of an argument on the Internet . But It's total BULL SHIT on what your 'claim quoting' . & would love to read actual published results <span style="font-weight: bold">( that are NOT Posted ) to your 'internet posed ' Statement .</span>
I Have personally shot several thousands of Subsonic Vel. .22 rimfire out of different 10/22 platforms with using Bolt-lock mechanisms both integrated trigger group and simple manual set Bolt-plate . With using a Suppressor & not using a Suppressor . With also different barrels lengths . And with also different brands of subsonic .22 ammo . & Shot suppressed Sub.vel. 10/22 Bolt-lock from, Shooing bench, out Vehicles, House & buildings, Woods, Fields, Night, Day, Freezing Temp. Hot Temp. etc. .
I am stating on the Internet that your statement is Total BullShit . When you eliminate all movement and noise made by Bolt-cycle slap and also eliminate all Blowback gas and noise from back-pressure that escape from the Receiver extraction port caused by Suppressor trapping expanding muzzle gasses .
When Doing This . Locking a 10/22 Bolt <span style="font-weight: bold">( as I State above )</span> . Makes <span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">LESS Noise</span></span> <span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">that is heard/detected to the Shooters ear and also LESS ambient noise detected in surrounding area</span> </span>.
.
edit to add:<span style="font-weight: bold">
<span style="font-size: 14pt">We Call this here on earth, " Making It Quieter " </span>.</span>
.
Thats Horse Shit . I hate feeding inflammatory troll bullshit that gets posted & trying to defend a side of an argument on the Internet . But It's total BULL SHIT on what your 'claim quoting' . & would love to read actual published results <span style="font-weight: bold">( that are NOT Posted ) to your 'internet posed ' Statement .</span>
I Have personally shot several thousands of Subsonic Vel. .22 rimfire out of different 10/22 platforms with using Bolt-lock mechanisms both integrated trigger group and simple manual set Bolt-plate . With using a Suppressor & not using a Suppressor . With also different barrels lengths . And with also different brands of subsonic .22 ammo . & Shot suppressed Sub.vel. 10/22 Bolt-lock from, Shooing bench, out Vehicles, House & buildings, Woods, Fields, Night, Day, Freezing Temp. Hot Temp. etc. .
I am stating on the Internet that your statement is Total BullShit . When you eliminate all movement and noise made by Bolt-cycle slap and also eliminate all Blowback gas and noise from back-pressure that escape from the Receiver extraction port caused by Suppressor trapping expanding muzzle gasses .
When Doing This . Locking a 10/22 Bolt <span style="font-weight: bold">( as I State above )</span> . Makes <span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">LESS Noise</span></span> <span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">that is heard/detected to the Shooters ear and also LESS ambient noise detected in surrounding area</span> </span>.
.
edit to add:<span style="font-weight: bold">
<span style="font-size: 14pt">We Call this here on earth, " Making It Quieter " </span>.</span>
.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Big edit on my part...I thought Softcock was directing his comment to me, he wasn't, so I'll strip this out and just say he is correct it would be quieter.
Sorry.
Big edit on my part...I thought Softcock was directing his comment to me, he wasn't, so I'll strip this out and just say he is correct it would be quieter.
Sorry.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
lol...i love you guys that have calibrated ears. much better than bk 2209's...and most deff better than having 2 of them. Right?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzqFnuMzUo&feature=channel&list=UL
lol...i love you guys that have calibrated ears. much better than bk 2209's...and most deff better than having 2 of them. Right?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzqFnuMzUo&feature=channel&list=UL
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GSRswapandslow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">lol...i love you guys that have calibrated ears. much better than bk 2209's...and most deff better than having 2 of them. Right?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzqFnuMzUo&feature=channel&list=UL </div></div>
Good thing God attached two dB meters to my head instead of human ears...wait wut?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GSRswapandslow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">lol...i love you guys that have calibrated ears. much better than bk 2209's...and most deff better than having 2 of them. Right?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzqFnuMzUo&feature=channel&list=UL </div></div>
Good thing God attached two dB meters to my head instead of human ears...wait wut?
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
As I said..
Look to the can....the can....not the bolt lock.
The rifle is quieter, the can, now asked to really do its job, can't.
As I said..
Look to the can....the can....not the bolt lock.
The rifle is quieter, the can, now asked to really do its job, can't.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
lol...right
lol...right
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<span style="font-weight: bold">YES he is correct . & you must " LOL " @ Yourself and no one else .</span>
Given that Boltaction or 10/22 . that the ( Velocity & Barrel Length are the same ) . ( End Result ) . IT'S ALL up tp the Suppressor .
Lock the bolt closed . All that is motion now is Bullet & Expanding muzzle gas that leaves the Bi product known as NOISE .
That is why If you lock a Bolt back ( Closed ) on Semi-Platform 10/22 that is Suppressed . reality is that is NO longer any different than cycling the Bolt closed on a Boltaction Rimfire platform .
& any fluctuation Up/Down in Noise out the muzzle is bi product of what different suppressor design is screwed to the end of your Muzzle that is trapping the expanding gasses . <span style="font-weight: bold">it's ALL Up to the Suppressor .</span>
.
<span style="font-weight: bold">YES he is correct . & you must " LOL " @ Yourself and no one else .</span>
Given that Boltaction or 10/22 . that the ( Velocity & Barrel Length are the same ) . ( End Result ) . IT'S ALL up tp the Suppressor .
Lock the bolt closed . All that is motion now is Bullet & Expanding muzzle gas that leaves the Bi product known as NOISE .
That is why If you lock a Bolt back ( Closed ) on Semi-Platform 10/22 that is Suppressed . reality is that is NO longer any different than cycling the Bolt closed on a Boltaction Rimfire platform .
& any fluctuation Up/Down in Noise out the muzzle is bi product of what different suppressor design is screwed to the end of your Muzzle that is trapping the expanding gasses . <span style="font-weight: bold">it's ALL Up to the Suppressor .</span>
.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
once again, lol
a suppressor that meters in the top 1% of all rimfire suppressors...isn't up the task of handling the round it was designed to...awesome
once again, lol
a suppressor that meters in the top 1% of all rimfire suppressors...isn't up the task of handling the round it was designed to...awesome
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
GSR, I don't think your narrow mindedness is doing you any favors right now. All he is saying is to think logically about the physics behind your argument. You are saying that somebody has done research somewhere that proves it is louder to lock the bolt. Softcock is attempting to explain to you the physics behind why this might happen. Yes, maybe in a certain gun with certain cans the sound of the action racking and the gas escaping during the process makes less "total noise" than if all the gas is diverted out of the muzzle and into the suppressor. That is what you are saying. Softcock is not disagreeing. He is saying that at that point the gun is technically making less noise due to the absence of the bolt racking and gas escaping the chamber, and the difference in total noise heard is dependent on the suppressor being used, and not on the gun anymore. Perhaps some cans will emit more noise in that situation, or maybe they won't. I don't think this means the can is being given more than it can handle, and I know very little about the science behind them, but I would assume that variations in baffle number, placement, and design as well as variations in total internal volume of the can would result in suppressors having varying levels of tolerance for compensating the different amounts of pressure you would see when using a bolt lock. So MAYBE you could calm down and actually think logically about it, and if you still don't understand what you are actually arguing about then I would ask that you start your own thread and post anything you want about the subject there. "lol".
GSR, I don't think your narrow mindedness is doing you any favors right now. All he is saying is to think logically about the physics behind your argument. You are saying that somebody has done research somewhere that proves it is louder to lock the bolt. Softcock is attempting to explain to you the physics behind why this might happen. Yes, maybe in a certain gun with certain cans the sound of the action racking and the gas escaping during the process makes less "total noise" than if all the gas is diverted out of the muzzle and into the suppressor. That is what you are saying. Softcock is not disagreeing. He is saying that at that point the gun is technically making less noise due to the absence of the bolt racking and gas escaping the chamber, and the difference in total noise heard is dependent on the suppressor being used, and not on the gun anymore. Perhaps some cans will emit more noise in that situation, or maybe they won't. I don't think this means the can is being given more than it can handle, and I know very little about the science behind them, but I would assume that variations in baffle number, placement, and design as well as variations in total internal volume of the can would result in suppressors having varying levels of tolerance for compensating the different amounts of pressure you would see when using a bolt lock. So MAYBE you could calm down and actually think logically about it, and if you still don't understand what you are actually arguing about then I would ask that you start your own thread and post anything you want about the subject there. "lol".
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
Also, after looking at some of your posts on other forums you seem to have a bad habit of A. being a dick to people for no reason and B. going completely off topic on the OP's threads. I did see some good advice you have given too, particularly your fondness for Savage. Good taste. A little more of that and a little less of the other stuff and you'll make some good friends on here.
Also, after looking at some of your posts on other forums you seem to have a bad habit of A. being a dick to people for no reason and B. going completely off topic on the OP's threads. I did see some good advice you have given too, particularly your fondness for Savage. Good taste. A little more of that and a little less of the other stuff and you'll make some good friends on here.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
I am a dick, and i ONLY care about real data and not an opinion. Jon's B&K2209's are NIST calibrated/backed and if they read higher with the bolt locked, then that's all i need to know. Also knowing that his suppressors work as good as they do, I have one as well, I know that it's NOT a shortcoming of the can.
when the bolt cycles, it doesn't really let out much noise/gas...by the time the bullet has left the chamber, the bolt has yet to open fully, or enough, for the gas to leave.
I am a dick, and i ONLY care about real data and not an opinion. Jon's B&K2209's are NIST calibrated/backed and if they read higher with the bolt locked, then that's all i need to know. Also knowing that his suppressors work as good as they do, I have one as well, I know that it's NOT a shortcoming of the can.
when the bolt cycles, it doesn't really let out much noise/gas...by the time the bullet has left the chamber, the bolt has yet to open fully, or enough, for the gas to leave.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
I think it's reasonable to expect that using a suppressor that is quieter will increase backpressure, resulting in more action cycling noise in a 10/22 as the bolt cycles earlier or faster than designed due to the added pressure. this probably also makes a tight chamber fit more important than in an unsupressed gun.
Perhaps one could use a bolt with increased mass to proportionally slow down the action? A few minutes of searching showed that Midway sells a tungsten bolt handle designed to add mass and slow a 10/22 action.
It's also curious that the guy in the video linked above has chosen to stand against a hard backstop (and it appears there may be a roof/overhang as well), and point the meter up in the air rather than at the sound source, etc. - these factors can contribute to misleading and inconsistent readings.
I think it's reasonable to expect that using a suppressor that is quieter will increase backpressure, resulting in more action cycling noise in a 10/22 as the bolt cycles earlier or faster than designed due to the added pressure. this probably also makes a tight chamber fit more important than in an unsupressed gun.
Perhaps one could use a bolt with increased mass to proportionally slow down the action? A few minutes of searching showed that Midway sells a tungsten bolt handle designed to add mass and slow a 10/22 action.
It's also curious that the guy in the video linked above has chosen to stand against a hard backstop (and it appears there may be a roof/overhang as well), and point the meter up in the air rather than at the sound source, etc. - these factors can contribute to misleading and inconsistent readings.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
GSR, let me try and help here.
There is a major failure to understand the basic principles of dB readings that prohibits a good number of otherwise reasonably bright people to move ahead on suppression issues. That high point of failure is looking at any dB data, any of it, without understanding either peak pressure and duration/frequency/tonality. And, once understanding it, account for it in one's research results. For far too long a very few "practitioners" (they are not engineers, scientists, scholars, researchers) without any formal education or real understanding of suppression have....bought meters and posted data without the thinnest clue as to what those numbers mean. Less dB, this better! No, no...not necessarily.
Let me boil it right down to its essence. dB meters can only measure peak pressure, that is all. Why is that important? Because the peak pressure of a .308 is the same as a .300 Winmag. But you and I, and every other living thing with ears hears the difference between a .308 and a .300 Winmag as incredibly different. That difference would stop most people dead in their tracks and think "hey, there must be something more to sound than peak pressure." And, not surprisingly, that is where many manufacturers have walked away from "practitioners" like Tits. He just doesn't get it.
The difference is actually two things, duration and tonality. Its the duration of the blast, that which cannot be picked up by a peak meter that is important. It is the frequencies generated and sustained throughout that very same duration that is important as well. That does not mean just throwing up a pretty multi colored graph of the data, but understanding what the graph means and how it relates to dB and actual performance.
So, where does that leave us. Pretty much split between goofy practitioners with bad meter placement, lack of understanding, missing manufacturer models (no not everybody wants to give a free model to "practitioners" that don't understand the basics), mismatched models, mismatched year comparisons, and a good number of cases where non-production models were provided as "in production" models (some of those models "black Box" for instance, were never produced.)
Now as to you 1% of top .22 suppressors...no, not even close. When we include integrals, all blast cans pale. Unless of course, one starts stuffing subsonics of various makes and loads and begins to pretend that a blast can shooting subs can get anywhere near the ballistic power of an integral. Then there is the part where top quality integrals compress their barrels to reduce barrel resonance, providing superior accuracy.
Now, I do not expect you to accept any or all of this as fact. But it would be a good time to start to explore the real reasons why when you lock the breach and dBs go up we always look to the can.
jhnmdahl, not necessarily. Think of it this way. A can is designed to match the pressures as required. As an example, some manufacturers of cans have tremendous back pressure problems when their product, designed for bolt guns, are threaded on to gas guns. It can be the other way, on the suppressor threads there is a fellow right now that wants a can for his M1a and thinks that he can just buy a bolt can and thread it on. He can't, and depending on the can he selects he could set into motion enough pressures to really wear his weapon down. The issue is design, pressure design, whether by volume, baffle, chamber or, as is almost always the case, a very careful balancing of them all.
GSR, let me try and help here.
There is a major failure to understand the basic principles of dB readings that prohibits a good number of otherwise reasonably bright people to move ahead on suppression issues. That high point of failure is looking at any dB data, any of it, without understanding either peak pressure and duration/frequency/tonality. And, once understanding it, account for it in one's research results. For far too long a very few "practitioners" (they are not engineers, scientists, scholars, researchers) without any formal education or real understanding of suppression have....bought meters and posted data without the thinnest clue as to what those numbers mean. Less dB, this better! No, no...not necessarily.
Let me boil it right down to its essence. dB meters can only measure peak pressure, that is all. Why is that important? Because the peak pressure of a .308 is the same as a .300 Winmag. But you and I, and every other living thing with ears hears the difference between a .308 and a .300 Winmag as incredibly different. That difference would stop most people dead in their tracks and think "hey, there must be something more to sound than peak pressure." And, not surprisingly, that is where many manufacturers have walked away from "practitioners" like Tits. He just doesn't get it.
The difference is actually two things, duration and tonality. Its the duration of the blast, that which cannot be picked up by a peak meter that is important. It is the frequencies generated and sustained throughout that very same duration that is important as well. That does not mean just throwing up a pretty multi colored graph of the data, but understanding what the graph means and how it relates to dB and actual performance.
So, where does that leave us. Pretty much split between goofy practitioners with bad meter placement, lack of understanding, missing manufacturer models (no not everybody wants to give a free model to "practitioners" that don't understand the basics), mismatched models, mismatched year comparisons, and a good number of cases where non-production models were provided as "in production" models (some of those models "black Box" for instance, were never produced.)
Now as to you 1% of top .22 suppressors...no, not even close. When we include integrals, all blast cans pale. Unless of course, one starts stuffing subsonics of various makes and loads and begins to pretend that a blast can shooting subs can get anywhere near the ballistic power of an integral. Then there is the part where top quality integrals compress their barrels to reduce barrel resonance, providing superior accuracy.
Now, I do not expect you to accept any or all of this as fact. But it would be a good time to start to explore the real reasons why when you lock the breach and dBs go up we always look to the can.
jhnmdahl, not necessarily. Think of it this way. A can is designed to match the pressures as required. As an example, some manufacturers of cans have tremendous back pressure problems when their product, designed for bolt guns, are threaded on to gas guns. It can be the other way, on the suppressor threads there is a fellow right now that wants a can for his M1a and thinks that he can just buy a bolt can and thread it on. He can't, and depending on the can he selects he could set into motion enough pressures to really wear his weapon down. The issue is design, pressure design, whether by volume, baffle, chamber or, as is almost always the case, a very careful balancing of them all.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jhnmdahl</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think it's reasonable to expect that using a suppressor that is quieter will increase backpressure, resulting in more action cycling noise in a 10/22 as the bolt cycles earlier or faster than designed due to the added pressure. this probably also makes a tight chamber fit more important than in an unsupressed gun.
Perhaps one could use a bolt with increased mass to proportionally slow down the action? A few minutes of searching showed that Midway sells a tungsten bolt handle designed to add mass and slow a 10/22 action.
It's also curious that the guy in the video linked above has chosen to stand against a hard backstop (and it appears there may be a roof/overhang as well), and point the meter up in the air rather than at the sound source, etc. - these factors can contribute to misleading and inconsistent readings.
</div></div>
that's Jon Titsworth, Jr....one of the, if not the, leading authority on suppressor testing. the meter's are placed to MIL spec standards and the presence of the wall/roof have no baring on the pulse created by the firearm. you might hear an echo, but the meters do not calculate it. there are easy to read traces from the meters that show the peak pressure, duration of the peak, and all other data.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jhnmdahl</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think it's reasonable to expect that using a suppressor that is quieter will increase backpressure, resulting in more action cycling noise in a 10/22 as the bolt cycles earlier or faster than designed due to the added pressure. this probably also makes a tight chamber fit more important than in an unsupressed gun.
Perhaps one could use a bolt with increased mass to proportionally slow down the action? A few minutes of searching showed that Midway sells a tungsten bolt handle designed to add mass and slow a 10/22 action.
It's also curious that the guy in the video linked above has chosen to stand against a hard backstop (and it appears there may be a roof/overhang as well), and point the meter up in the air rather than at the sound source, etc. - these factors can contribute to misleading and inconsistent readings.
</div></div>
that's Jon Titsworth, Jr....one of the, if not the, leading authority on suppressor testing. the meter's are placed to MIL spec standards and the presence of the wall/roof have no baring on the pulse created by the firearm. you might hear an echo, but the meters do not calculate it. there are easy to read traces from the meters that show the peak pressure, duration of the peak, and all other data.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
hardly....
hardly....
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">GSR, let me try and help here.
There is a major failure to understand the basic principles of dB readings that prohibit a good number of otherwise reasonably bright people to move ahead on suppression issues. That high point of failure is looking at any dB data, any of it, without understanding wither peak pressure and duration/frequency/tonality. For far too long a very few "practitioners" (they are not engineers, scientists, scholars, researchers) without any formal education or real understanding of suppression have....bought meters and posted data without the thinnest clue as to what those numbers mean. Less dB, this better! No, no...not necessarily.
Let me boil it right down to its essence. dB meters can only measure peak pressure, that is all. Why is that important? Because the peak pressure of a .308 is the same as a .300 Winmag.
But you and I, and every other living thing with ears hears the difference between a .308 and a .300 Winmag as incredibly different. That difference would stop most people dead in their tracks and think "hey, there must be something more to sound than peak pressure." And, not surprisingly, that is where many manufacturers have walked away from "practitioners" like Tits. He just doesn't get it.
The difference is actually two things, duration and tonality. Its the duration of the blast, that which cannot be picked up by a peak meter that is important. It is the frequencies generated and sustained throughout that very same duration that is important as well.
So, where does that leave us. Pretty much split between goofy practitioners with bad meter placement, lack of understanding, missing manufacturer models (no not everybody wants to give a free model to "practitioners" that don't understand the basics), mismatched models, mismatched year comparisons, and a good number of cases where non-production models were provided as "in production" models (some of those models "black Box" for instance, were never produced.)
Now as to you 1% of top .22 suppressors...no, not even close. When we include integrals, all blast cans pale. Unless of course, one starts stuffing subsonics of various makes and loads and begins to pretend that a blast can shooting subs can get anywhere near the ballistic power of an integral. Then there is the part where top quality integrals compress their barrels to reduce barrel resonance, providing superior accuracy.
Now, I do not expect you to accept any or all of this as fact. But it would be a good time to start to explore the real reasons why when you lock the breach and dBs go up we always look to the can.
jhnmdahl, not necessarily. Think of it this way. A can is designed to match the pressures as required. As an example, some manufacturers of cans have tremendous back pressure problems when their product, designed for bolt guns, are threaded on to gas guns. It can be the other way, on the suppressor threads there is a fellow right now that wants a can for his M1a and thinks that he can just buy a bolt can and thread it on. He can't, and depending on the can he selects he could set into motion enough pressures to really wear his weapon down. The issue is design, pressure design, whether by volume, baffle, chamber or, as is almost always the case, a very careful balancing of them all. </div></div>
yeah...jon completely disregards peak duration and pressure....lol the meters CAN determine duration, just as the other major manufacturers utilize.
tonality is very subjective
and when i was saying top 1%, i was only including thread on type suppressors....not ported barrel/integral type, of course.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">GSR, let me try and help here.
There is a major failure to understand the basic principles of dB readings that prohibit a good number of otherwise reasonably bright people to move ahead on suppression issues. That high point of failure is looking at any dB data, any of it, without understanding wither peak pressure and duration/frequency/tonality. For far too long a very few "practitioners" (they are not engineers, scientists, scholars, researchers) without any formal education or real understanding of suppression have....bought meters and posted data without the thinnest clue as to what those numbers mean. Less dB, this better! No, no...not necessarily.
Let me boil it right down to its essence. dB meters can only measure peak pressure, that is all. Why is that important? Because the peak pressure of a .308 is the same as a .300 Winmag.
But you and I, and every other living thing with ears hears the difference between a .308 and a .300 Winmag as incredibly different. That difference would stop most people dead in their tracks and think "hey, there must be something more to sound than peak pressure." And, not surprisingly, that is where many manufacturers have walked away from "practitioners" like Tits. He just doesn't get it.
The difference is actually two things, duration and tonality. Its the duration of the blast, that which cannot be picked up by a peak meter that is important. It is the frequencies generated and sustained throughout that very same duration that is important as well.
So, where does that leave us. Pretty much split between goofy practitioners with bad meter placement, lack of understanding, missing manufacturer models (no not everybody wants to give a free model to "practitioners" that don't understand the basics), mismatched models, mismatched year comparisons, and a good number of cases where non-production models were provided as "in production" models (some of those models "black Box" for instance, were never produced.)
Now as to you 1% of top .22 suppressors...no, not even close. When we include integrals, all blast cans pale. Unless of course, one starts stuffing subsonics of various makes and loads and begins to pretend that a blast can shooting subs can get anywhere near the ballistic power of an integral. Then there is the part where top quality integrals compress their barrels to reduce barrel resonance, providing superior accuracy.
Now, I do not expect you to accept any or all of this as fact. But it would be a good time to start to explore the real reasons why when you lock the breach and dBs go up we always look to the can.
jhnmdahl, not necessarily. Think of it this way. A can is designed to match the pressures as required. As an example, some manufacturers of cans have tremendous back pressure problems when their product, designed for bolt guns, are threaded on to gas guns. It can be the other way, on the suppressor threads there is a fellow right now that wants a can for his M1a and thinks that he can just buy a bolt can and thread it on. He can't, and depending on the can he selects he could set into motion enough pressures to really wear his weapon down. The issue is design, pressure design, whether by volume, baffle, chamber or, as is almost always the case, a very careful balancing of them all. </div></div>
yeah...jon completely disregards peak duration and pressure....lol the meters CAN determine duration, just as the other major manufacturers utilize.
tonality is very subjective
and when i was saying top 1%, i was only including thread on type suppressors....not ported barrel/integral type, of course.
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hardly.... </div></div>
i love your long winded replies, followed up by single words....it makes my day go quicker.
you're a fun guy to troll
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hardly.... </div></div>
i love your long winded replies, followed up by single words....it makes my day go quicker.
you're a fun guy to troll
Re: How to quiet down a 10/22?
have a quicker day then....
have a quicker day then....
