I got the Magpul Precision Rifle video and it talks about truing your software to your actual impacts. Does this really work? Any downsides to it? Is the Horus software the only software that can do it?
Range Report "Truing" your software
- Thread starter m1a convert
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Re: "Truing" your software
If have the same question. Thanks for asking it.
If have the same question. Thanks for asking it.
Re: "Truing" your software
I don't have a smartphone or a PDA but wouldn't mind reading about what folks have to say on this for future reference.
I don't have a smartphone or a PDA but wouldn't mind reading about what folks have to say on this for future reference.
Re: "Truing" your software
Horus Atrag MX & Kestrel only
http://www.horusvision.com/software.php
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pg6oqT5jVds&feature=related
Horus Atrag MX & Kestrel only
http://www.horusvision.com/software.php
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pg6oqT5jVds&feature=related
Re: "Truing" your software
You can calibrate most software and is simple enough too do.
Some of the elements in the video are correct for other software, like actually shooting to a range that puts the round around 1300fps. (example)
The steps are simple enough, calibrate your scope and if necessary adjust the software using the sight offset, click value, etc. This will work with most software to include the iPhone Apps.
Then, calculate actual drop. You can start at 300 yards to begin. At this range you can adjust your BC if necessary. The BC will move based on the rifle shooting it. For example BulletFlight has an option in the utilities area to adjust BC based on Drop. it will give you a new G1 or G7 which you can then input into your data section.
Lastly you can calibrate the drop out to 800 yards like the video. Checking at distance is the final step, but you should have at least choreographed your load to start with, if you haven't then some software does have functions to adjust it based on drop.
Certain software has a DK function to bend the curve, this is used in place of adjusting the BC or MV, so you can do it a number of ways with a number of different software solutions, not just the Horus. Remember he was hired by Horus in the beginning to work and sell Horus methods and products, so of course they are not going to inform you of other methods.
Calibrating the system like above I have taken software like Field Firing Solutions and Patagonia LB3 out to distances beyond 2000 yards with very successful hit rates. Inside 1500m the first round hits where more consistent than when you didn't do it, and at 1000 yards and in it was too easy with a rifle like a 338LM.
The system calibration should be:
1. Muzzle Velocity using a chronograph
2. Scope calibration to at least 48"
3. Drop to 300 yards to tune with then
4. Drop to to 800 yards to fine tune.
I recommend using a water mark or paper to get the best data possible so you are assured of POA / POI.
There are many ways to skin a cat, when the person telling you one way, make sure you understand the backstory, like the fact they are actually paid to promote a very specific product.
You can calibrate most software and is simple enough too do.
Some of the elements in the video are correct for other software, like actually shooting to a range that puts the round around 1300fps. (example)
The steps are simple enough, calibrate your scope and if necessary adjust the software using the sight offset, click value, etc. This will work with most software to include the iPhone Apps.
Then, calculate actual drop. You can start at 300 yards to begin. At this range you can adjust your BC if necessary. The BC will move based on the rifle shooting it. For example BulletFlight has an option in the utilities area to adjust BC based on Drop. it will give you a new G1 or G7 which you can then input into your data section.
Lastly you can calibrate the drop out to 800 yards like the video. Checking at distance is the final step, but you should have at least choreographed your load to start with, if you haven't then some software does have functions to adjust it based on drop.
Certain software has a DK function to bend the curve, this is used in place of adjusting the BC or MV, so you can do it a number of ways with a number of different software solutions, not just the Horus. Remember he was hired by Horus in the beginning to work and sell Horus methods and products, so of course they are not going to inform you of other methods.
Calibrating the system like above I have taken software like Field Firing Solutions and Patagonia LB3 out to distances beyond 2000 yards with very successful hit rates. Inside 1500m the first round hits where more consistent than when you didn't do it, and at 1000 yards and in it was too easy with a rifle like a 338LM.
The system calibration should be:
1. Muzzle Velocity using a chronograph
2. Scope calibration to at least 48"
3. Drop to 300 yards to tune with then
4. Drop to to 800 yards to fine tune.
I recommend using a water mark or paper to get the best data possible so you are assured of POA / POI.
There are many ways to skin a cat, when the person telling you one way, make sure you understand the backstory, like the fact they are actually paid to promote a very specific product.
Re: "Truing" your software
It did feel like a commercial sometimes.
What do you mean to use a watermark?
It did feel like a commercial sometimes.
What do you mean to use a watermark?
Re: "Truing" your software
A good portion of the XLR class is centered around getting the software calibrated to match observed reality, rather than the reverse. Most all software can adjust at least the BC and velocity to some degree, better software has more ability to be tuned up.
You want real velocities, not book or box numbers. Shoot over the chronograph whenever physically possible, more data is better, and if you plot shots along with the actual velocity it's better than group center alone.
Paper is best, though in a class we can't afford the time, so I paint a waterline on the steel so you get a very tight vertical hold and referance point for the group.
A good portion of the XLR class is centered around getting the software calibrated to match observed reality, rather than the reverse. Most all software can adjust at least the BC and velocity to some degree, better software has more ability to be tuned up.
You want real velocities, not book or box numbers. Shoot over the chronograph whenever physically possible, more data is better, and if you plot shots along with the actual velocity it's better than group center alone.
Paper is best, though in a class we can't afford the time, so I paint a waterline on the steel so you get a very tight vertical hold and referance point for the group.
Re: "Truing" your software
Cory's program at Gunsite is awesome, I highly recommend it having taken the XLR course. They spend a lot of time calibrating the system so at the end you can see it in action shooting UKD targets (18x30) out to 2000m.
A watermark, water line, leveling line is just a horizontal reference mark on the target so you have a consistent hold, as well you can gauge the impact effectively. It certainly helps.
If you watch the SH Training Trailer, you can see it around the 3:15 mark. It's being used on a SH Target at 800 yards in the field. The shots were from an 18" 308 and the dope was derived from the PDA using ballistic software. These are just snippets to give you an idea, but almost all the clips you'll see a PDA and Kestrel in the shot, as well as a hard copy data book. We demonstrate several methods as we aren't acting as an informercial for a company that is paying us. We try to use the most common tools the shooter will find and not be a one trick pony.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JSA8OPDOYrI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
When I zero a rifle I am shooting as many rounds as possible through the chronograph, and if that means I am changing scopes and switching them around, again, I am choreographing as well as calibrating the scopes if they are new. But calibrating the scopes as soon as possible, so if a problem does appear and things look out of sorts, I can easily go back and recalibrate comparing the results. This is a key component of the system. if you don't calibrate the scopes, you can never know if any deviation is the software, the rifle, or the scope, it just makes it harder to diagnose any issues.
Cory's program at Gunsite is awesome, I highly recommend it having taken the XLR course. They spend a lot of time calibrating the system so at the end you can see it in action shooting UKD targets (18x30) out to 2000m.
A watermark, water line, leveling line is just a horizontal reference mark on the target so you have a consistent hold, as well you can gauge the impact effectively. It certainly helps.
If you watch the SH Training Trailer, you can see it around the 3:15 mark. It's being used on a SH Target at 800 yards in the field. The shots were from an 18" 308 and the dope was derived from the PDA using ballistic software. These are just snippets to give you an idea, but almost all the clips you'll see a PDA and Kestrel in the shot, as well as a hard copy data book. We demonstrate several methods as we aren't acting as an informercial for a company that is paying us. We try to use the most common tools the shooter will find and not be a one trick pony.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JSA8OPDOYrI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
When I zero a rifle I am shooting as many rounds as possible through the chronograph, and if that means I am changing scopes and switching them around, again, I am choreographing as well as calibrating the scopes if they are new. But calibrating the scopes as soon as possible, so if a problem does appear and things look out of sorts, I can easily go back and recalibrate comparing the results. This is a key component of the system. if you don't calibrate the scopes, you can never know if any deviation is the software, the rifle, or the scope, it just makes it harder to diagnose any issues.
Re: "Truing" your software
How do you calibrate a scope? Are you referring to shooting the box?
How do you calibrate a scope? Are you referring to shooting the box?
Re: "Truing" your software
The usual method is by using a 48" level at 100 yards and then counting the clicks it takes to go from top to bottom.
Programs like FFS has a utility to help.
The usual method is by using a 48" level at 100 yards and then counting the clicks it takes to go from top to bottom.
Programs like FFS has a utility to help.
Re: "Truing" your software
Frank maybe doing a video on scope calibration would be nice for us who dont know how to.
Frank maybe doing a video on scope calibration would be nice for us who dont know how to.
Re: "Truing" your software
Yes, that is simply a MAC/Ipad edit, if the MACs don't like the word they change it on you. It was supposed to be Chronographed.
The offset with JBM is different, its if the scope is not over the bore, each piece of software is different, some have a suppressor offset, other have it as zero differences, (JBM lets you adjust if the zero is not dead center) and my choice of words was probably wrong, when talking about the click value. If your scope is not 100% they have the ability to let you adjust that, so the software knows you are not working with standard adjustments.
JBM actually has a nice FAQ if you click on the little "?" next to what you don't understand. But like I said, Zero offset is if your zero is not perfectly centered.
There are different offsets for different software.
Yes, that is simply a MAC/Ipad edit, if the MACs don't like the word they change it on you. It was supposed to be Chronographed.
The offset with JBM is different, its if the scope is not over the bore, each piece of software is different, some have a suppressor offset, other have it as zero differences, (JBM lets you adjust if the zero is not dead center) and my choice of words was probably wrong, when talking about the click value. If your scope is not 100% they have the ability to let you adjust that, so the software knows you are not working with standard adjustments.
JBM actually has a nice FAQ if you click on the little "?" next to what you don't understand. But like I said, Zero offset is if your zero is not perfectly centered.
There are different offsets for different software.
Re: "Truing" your software
Has anyone used thre5.11 ballistic computer watch? I know its simple software but any luck with it?
Has anyone used thre5.11 ballistic computer watch? I know its simple software but any luck with it?
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m1a convert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How do you calibrate a scope? Are you referring to shooting the box?</div></div>
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...Fm&hl=en_US
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m1a convert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How do you calibrate a scope? Are you referring to shooting the box?</div></div>
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...Fm&hl=en_US
Re: "Truing" your software
good info, thanks!
good info, thanks!
Re: "Truing" your software
"Does this really work"? I also had been interested in getting into some of these high tech toys and ordered the 05, the 4500, and the MX software. I went out last weekend and was greeted by a beautiful, calm morning. I zeroed my .308 dead on at 100 yds then adjusted the 25+ yr. old Leupold (fixed 12X, target turrets, Premier USMC reticle conversion) 30 minutes up to calibrate. Group clustered 31.75 high, so I chose the TMOA option = 31.47". Drove back to 834 yds (lasered), fired according to pda and impacted near 3/4 moa low. I adjusted to poa then trued the Atrag software. My Pact chronoghaph said my ammo was doing 2640 fps, after truing, software said 2665. Then drove halfway back, lasered target (steel, full size IPSC) at 417 yds. Impact was dead on. Then drove way back and lasered target at 980, did everything I was supposed to do and fired 3 rds. I had a 7" group 3" under my poa. Yeah, it really worked for me. In reality, I did'nt need the Atrag software, or even the Kestrel because I do most of my shooting in familiar areas or conditions. I have Shooter on my Android phone and it's doing a great job. I think the real benefit for me is the Terrapin. Any misses outside of 600 yds has been because of poor range estimation. And besides, these are just some fun, bad-ass toys to help get on target.
"Does this really work"? I also had been interested in getting into some of these high tech toys and ordered the 05, the 4500, and the MX software. I went out last weekend and was greeted by a beautiful, calm morning. I zeroed my .308 dead on at 100 yds then adjusted the 25+ yr. old Leupold (fixed 12X, target turrets, Premier USMC reticle conversion) 30 minutes up to calibrate. Group clustered 31.75 high, so I chose the TMOA option = 31.47". Drove back to 834 yds (lasered), fired according to pda and impacted near 3/4 moa low. I adjusted to poa then trued the Atrag software. My Pact chronoghaph said my ammo was doing 2640 fps, after truing, software said 2665. Then drove halfway back, lasered target (steel, full size IPSC) at 417 yds. Impact was dead on. Then drove way back and lasered target at 980, did everything I was supposed to do and fired 3 rds. I had a 7" group 3" under my poa. Yeah, it really worked for me. In reality, I did'nt need the Atrag software, or even the Kestrel because I do most of my shooting in familiar areas or conditions. I have Shooter on my Android phone and it's doing a great job. I think the real benefit for me is the Terrapin. Any misses outside of 600 yds has been because of poor range estimation. And besides, these are just some fun, bad-ass toys to help get on target.
Re: "Truing" your software
hello,
I shot my rifle at each hundred yd mark from 100yd to 1000yds. At each range I noted impact of 5 shot groups and correction needed.
Using average MV (chronographed) and Litz's data for BC in JBM's program, the computed data was different from what the targets were telling me.
I played with the settings for MV and BC to get the program aligned with real life. My real life results were less correction at longer ranges (increase BC in program) but this messed up the close range data (lowered MV in program) etc and back and forth until computed data matched real life data. I was able to get the program data to virtually match my actual results on the target. The bullets seemed to fly more efficiently than the program predicted.
I have verified this multiple times and data is still good as long as other variables are taken into account ie. humidity, light, temp. etc. Play with it a little bit and you will most likely have similar results.
Equipment: Sav 10 FCP-HS .308 WIN, 3-18x42 IOR, prone from bi-pod
Load: Lapua brass, Hornady 178 AMAX, RE 15, FED 210M
Sim
hello,
I shot my rifle at each hundred yd mark from 100yd to 1000yds. At each range I noted impact of 5 shot groups and correction needed.
Using average MV (chronographed) and Litz's data for BC in JBM's program, the computed data was different from what the targets were telling me.
I played with the settings for MV and BC to get the program aligned with real life. My real life results were less correction at longer ranges (increase BC in program) but this messed up the close range data (lowered MV in program) etc and back and forth until computed data matched real life data. I was able to get the program data to virtually match my actual results on the target. The bullets seemed to fly more efficiently than the program predicted.
I have verified this multiple times and data is still good as long as other variables are taken into account ie. humidity, light, temp. etc. Play with it a little bit and you will most likely have similar results.
Equipment: Sav 10 FCP-HS .308 WIN, 3-18x42 IOR, prone from bi-pod
Load: Lapua brass, Hornady 178 AMAX, RE 15, FED 210M
Sim
Re: "Truing" your software
I've been 'truing' my data for years. I started out using the free point blank software and adjusting velocity and b.c., or even scope height (or combinations of all three) to get the curve to match what the bullet was actually doing. Testing out to 600 yards at least provides the best results-longer is better.
I've been 'truing' my data for years. I started out using the free point blank software and adjusting velocity and b.c., or even scope height (or combinations of all three) to get the curve to match what the bullet was actually doing. Testing out to 600 yards at least provides the best results-longer is better.
Re: "Truing" your software
As others have mentioned you first must know if what you are putting in the scope.
Calibration of the optic you are using is a must.
Enter any scope correction into the program.
You then need a calibrated weather station tool such as a Kestrel.
Then get a base line muzzle velocity whith a chronograph.
Then shoot paper and if you are using Shooter find this screen and enter your actual drops to find your true muzzle velocity
You should now be within a .10mil @1000m
As others have mentioned you first must know if what you are putting in the scope.
Calibration of the optic you are using is a must.
Enter any scope correction into the program.
You then need a calibrated weather station tool such as a Kestrel.
Then get a base line muzzle velocity whith a chronograph.
Then shoot paper and if you are using Shooter find this screen and enter your actual drops to find your true muzzle velocity
You should now be within a .10mil @1000m
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DaveD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As others have mentioned you first must know if what you are putting in the scope.
Calibration of the optic you are using is a must.
Enter any scope correction into the program.
You then need a calibrated weather station tool such as a Kestrel.
Then get a base line muzzle velocity whith a chronograph.
Then shoot paper and if you are using Shooter find this screen and enter your actual drops to find your true muzzle velocity
You should now be within a .10mil @1000m
</div></div>
Is this screen only for the ipod version. Cause I have shooter for the android and I don't seem to be able to find it. There is a simple MV tool but not like that.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DaveD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As others have mentioned you first must know if what you are putting in the scope.
Calibration of the optic you are using is a must.
Enter any scope correction into the program.
You then need a calibrated weather station tool such as a Kestrel.
Then get a base line muzzle velocity whith a chronograph.
Then shoot paper and if you are using Shooter find this screen and enter your actual drops to find your true muzzle velocity
You should now be within a .10mil @1000m
Is this screen only for the ipod version. Cause I have shooter for the android and I don't seem to be able to find it. There is a simple MV tool but not like that.
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 223man</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Is this screen only for the ipod version. Cause I have shooter for the android and I don't seem to be able to find it. There is a simple MV tool but not like that.</div></div>
do you have the latest update?
on the iphone to get to that screen you must select weapon and ammo the calculate then when the table comes up hit the menu button and you get options for "show lead", "email table" and "velocity calibration". not sure if it is the same on the android.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 223man</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Is this screen only for the ipod version. Cause I have shooter for the android and I don't seem to be able to find it. There is a simple MV tool but not like that.</div></div>
do you have the latest update?
on the iphone to get to that screen you must select weapon and ammo the calculate then when the table comes up hit the menu button and you get options for "show lead", "email table" and "velocity calibration". not sure if it is the same on the android.
Re: "Truing" your software
Step one: "calibrate" your scope
You must know what you are dialing into the scope is what you are getting out of it down range.
Step two: "calibrated" pocket weather tracker.
Please read the directions that come with your pocket weather tracker and calibrate it.
Step three: Absolute zero on your rifle.
Off a .125 MOA from zero enter it into the program.
Step four: True muzzle velocity and the end of the barrel not at the chronograph.
Once you have done the four steps dialing known distance will be easy.
You should be able to go any place in the world and be dead on.
Step one: "calibrate" your scope
You must know what you are dialing into the scope is what you are getting out of it down range.
Step two: "calibrated" pocket weather tracker.
Please read the directions that come with your pocket weather tracker and calibrate it.
Step three: Absolute zero on your rifle.
Off a .125 MOA from zero enter it into the program.
Step four: True muzzle velocity and the end of the barrel not at the chronograph.
Once you have done the four steps dialing known distance will be easy.
You should be able to go any place in the world and be dead on.
Re: "Truing" your software
Wow, thank u guys for the iPhone program explanation. So helpful
Wow, thank u guys for the iPhone program explanation. So helpful
Re: "Truing" your software
One thing I forgot to mention is that your distances must measured spot on right down to the inch. A laser range finder may not be good enough. Think about investing in a 300 foot tape.
One thing I forgot to mention is that your distances must measured spot on right down to the inch. A laser range finder may not be good enough. Think about investing in a 300 foot tape.
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The usual method is by using a 48" level at 100 yards and then counting the clicks it takes to go from top to bottom.
Programs like FFS has a utility to help. </div></div>
Frank what do you mean by this? Particularly the part about a 48" Level
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The usual method is by using a 48" level at 100 yards and then counting the clicks it takes to go from top to bottom.
Programs like FFS has a utility to help. </div></div>
Frank what do you mean by this? Particularly the part about a 48" Level
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coues7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The usual method is by using a 48" level at 100 yards and then counting the clicks it takes to go from top to bottom.
Programs like FFS has a utility to help. </div></div>
Frank what do you mean by this? Particularly the part about a 48" Level </div></div>
scope/sight calibration is the number one step.
Look here @ Lindys page
http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/ScopeChecking/
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coues7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The usual method is by using a 48" level at 100 yards and then counting the clicks it takes to go from top to bottom.
Programs like FFS has a utility to help. </div></div>
Frank what do you mean by this? Particularly the part about a 48" Level </div></div>
scope/sight calibration is the number one step.
Look here @ Lindys page
http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/ScopeChecking/
Re: "Truing" your software
tomorrow I will buy a 300' tape and a 48" carpenter's level to use this weekend
tomorrow I will buy a 300' tape and a 48" carpenter's level to use this weekend
Re: "Truing" your software
Edit - I just looked this up for how Shooter on Android does it:
Elevation Correction - This is used to correct for scope turret clicks that aren't quite what they say they are. If you've come to realize your .25MOA per-click scope is actually .23MOA per-click then you'd put a correction factor of 1.08695652 (.25/.23) because you actually need to adjust more as you aren't quite getting a full quarter MOA per click. So say your elevation solution for a 1000yd shot is 28MOA and you have the correction factor of 1.08695652. Shooter will multiply 28 by 1.08695652 to give you 30.4MOA. So even though the real solution is 28, you'd dial 30.4MOA because your scope only adjusts .23MOA rather than .25MOA per-click. An asterisk (*) will be placed next to the angular unit in the Solution and Trajectory Table screens when using these inputs to denote that the given value is corrected and not the actual calculated correction. Inaccurate click adjustments are more common than you may think. Don't take this for granted. To effectively disable this feature, leave the input set to 1.0
So it looks to me like you would divide 9.8 by 10 = .98
Edit - I just looked this up for how Shooter on Android does it:
Elevation Correction - This is used to correct for scope turret clicks that aren't quite what they say they are. If you've come to realize your .25MOA per-click scope is actually .23MOA per-click then you'd put a correction factor of 1.08695652 (.25/.23) because you actually need to adjust more as you aren't quite getting a full quarter MOA per click. So say your elevation solution for a 1000yd shot is 28MOA and you have the correction factor of 1.08695652. Shooter will multiply 28 by 1.08695652 to give you 30.4MOA. So even though the real solution is 28, you'd dial 30.4MOA because your scope only adjusts .23MOA rather than .25MOA per-click. An asterisk (*) will be placed next to the angular unit in the Solution and Trajectory Table screens when using these inputs to denote that the given value is corrected and not the actual calculated correction. Inaccurate click adjustments are more common than you may think. Don't take this for granted. To effectively disable this feature, leave the input set to 1.0
So it looks to me like you would divide 9.8 by 10 = .98
Re: "Truing" your software
I just checked my android, edit your ammunition profile. when you get to your load after selecting your rifle, hold the load until a menu pops up and says edit, then go down and look at MV variation
I just checked my android, edit your ammunition profile. when you get to your load after selecting your rifle, hold the load until a menu pops up and says edit, then go down and look at MV variation
Re: "Truing" your software
I dont see an option to do this on FTE but you can in shooter.
I dont see an option to do this on FTE but you can in shooter.
Re: "Truing" your software
Lowe,
With FTE you can put in a custom click value which would be your actual click or reticle value. The FTE custom click value has to be entered in MOA but the output can still be set to mils.
Lowe,
With FTE you can put in a custom click value which would be your actual click or reticle value. The FTE custom click value has to be entered in MOA but the output can still be set to mils.
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CTressler</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lowe,
With FTE you can put in a custom click value which would be your actual click or reticle value. The FTE custom click value has to be entered in MOA but the output can still be set to mils.</div></div>
Good to know. I saw the custom click but there was no unit value. So just convert your scopes mil value to moa and enter that and set the output to mils. Interesting, thanks.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CTressler</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lowe,
With FTE you can put in a custom click value which would be your actual click or reticle value. The FTE custom click value has to be entered in MOA but the output can still be set to mils.</div></div>
Good to know. I saw the custom click but there was no unit value. So just convert your scopes mil value to moa and enter that and set the output to mils. Interesting, thanks.
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CleanMoostang</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just checked my android, edit your ammunition profile. when you get to your load after selecting your rifle, hold the load until a menu pops up and says edit, then go down and look at MV variation </div></div>
Hi
New to the forum.
I know this thread is (only a little) old, but I wanted to address what looks like a misunderstanding.
That MV variation you mention looks like it refers to the variation in MV according to temperature.
Usually you have a certain MV, with a certain load, under a certain temperature. If temperature changes, MV changes. For some loads it can be 1 fps/°F, for others it can be much more.
Hope this helps.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CleanMoostang</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just checked my android, edit your ammunition profile. when you get to your load after selecting your rifle, hold the load until a menu pops up and says edit, then go down and look at MV variation </div></div>
Hi
New to the forum.
I know this thread is (only a little) old, but I wanted to address what looks like a misunderstanding.
That MV variation you mention looks like it refers to the variation in MV according to temperature.
Usually you have a certain MV, with a certain load, under a certain temperature. If temperature changes, MV changes. For some loads it can be 1 fps/°F, for others it can be much more.
Hope this helps.
Re: "Truing" your software
tagged
tagged
Re: "Truing" your software
iPhone user here. I've always used isnipe. App reviews are kinda vague. Any agreement on the best iPhone app that allows you to true poi? I don't see isnipe offering any other method besides adjusting BC or MV
iPhone user here. I've always used isnipe. App reviews are kinda vague. Any agreement on the best iPhone app that allows you to true poi? I don't see isnipe offering any other method besides adjusting BC or MV
Re: "Truing" your software
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: texn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">iPhone user here. I've always used isnipe. App reviews are kinda vague. Any agreement on the best iPhone app that allows you to true poi? I don't see isnipe offering any other method besides adjusting BC or MV</div></div>
shooter... 10$
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: texn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">iPhone user here. I've always used isnipe. App reviews are kinda vague. Any agreement on the best iPhone app that allows you to true poi? I don't see isnipe offering any other method besides adjusting BC or MV</div></div>
shooter... 10$
Re: "Truing" your software
TAG
TAG
Re: "Truing" your software
Truing should be done close to transonic range or 1340 fps. Atrag then allows you to adjust your Bc or MV. Spot on after that.
Truing should be done close to transonic range or 1340 fps. Atrag then allows you to adjust your Bc or MV. Spot on after that.
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