Re: remington bolt lugs
On paper spending the time/$ to true up an action makes sense.
However, something needs to be understood prior to doing all this work.
Two parts that interact with one another need to have a certain clearance between them in order to make them function reliably. In the case of bolt guns this is often driven by the application.
A prissy BR gun that lives a very sheltered life can tolerate tighter clearances than a working gun that gets exposed to everything mother nature has to offer.
To summarize: apples need to go with apple pie and oranges get squeezed as juice.
These clearnaces affect things as the bolt is rotated into battery. The striker spring has compressed, it's related to the striker/cocking piece. These components are loaded against the transfer bar of the trigger. Most M700 style triggers are set on an angle. Roughly 35*. This "ramp" is encouraging the back end of the bolt to try and lift over the transfer bar. It can't because the sear of the trigger prevents it and the rear bridge of the receiver won't allow it. Because the bolt lugs are in battery they are oriented in a vertical plane. If the back end is trying to go "up" and the lugs are bearing against the lug abutments in the receiver, then the lower lug is contacted firmly while the top one is trying to move away. (rocking)
All of this essentially goes away the moment the rifle is fired. The case loads the bolt, lugs seat, and the big bang takes place a moment later.
As stated, if the rifle shoots well now, don't fix it. If you want it tuned up, wait till the barrel is smoked. Chances are the improvement you do see on the new barrel will be due to the quality of barrel. A very, very small percentage MIGHT be traceable to the extra work on the action/bolt lugs.
Hope this helped.
C.