I painted my stock and i like it pretty good but the paint seems to come of easy..... Im painting a mcmillian a4 i used rust-oleum specialty camouflage..... I wanted flat paint, did i use the wrong stuff or do i need to put a clear coat on it
Gunsmithing painting stocks??????????
- Thread starter travis thomas
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Re: painting stocks??????????
Try 3-4 coats of matte or flat clear coat...
Try 3-4 coats of matte or flat clear coat...
Re: painting stocks??????????
I did a design, lol... I hope i jst gotta let it sit a lil longer...
I did a design, lol... I hope i jst gotta let it sit a lil longer...
Re: painting stocks??????????
Im just going to let it dry really good for over night..
Im just going to let it dry really good for over night..
Re: painting stocks??????????
Anyone?????
Anyone?????
Re: painting stocks??????????
Did you prime it? Sand it? Clear coat it? All three of these things will lead to a longer lasting paint job.
Did you prime it? Sand it? Clear coat it? All three of these things will lead to a longer lasting paint job.
Re: painting stocks??????????
Assuming that you did the job with the correct surface prep, you'll still need to let it cure for a week or more (this time of the year, it's usually "more"). This is especially true if you're applying several coats, as would typically be the case with a camo pattern.
A few light coats of matte clear can help, but I don't like building up the paint too thick, or otherwise it can become more susceptible to chips. If you choose to apply clear, make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for recoat time.
If all else fails, just look at the paint damage as something that adds character
Assuming that you did the job with the correct surface prep, you'll still need to let it cure for a week or more (this time of the year, it's usually "more"). This is especially true if you're applying several coats, as would typically be the case with a camo pattern.
A few light coats of matte clear can help, but I don't like building up the paint too thick, or otherwise it can become more susceptible to chips. If you choose to apply clear, make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for recoat time.
If all else fails, just look at the paint damage as something that adds character
Re: painting stocks??????????
+1 on the Krylon, i use that **** on everything. Sticks like crazy and the camo line dries super fast.
+1 on the Krylon, i use that **** on everything. Sticks like crazy and the camo line dries super fast.
Re: painting stocks??????????
Krylon and most others takes a good week or two (or more) to fully cure depending on number of coats and conditions. And ive found that if you prep it right (painting is 99% surface prep) and let it cure COMPLETELY, its very durable.
I tried some much spendier Alumahyde, and although it seems to be more solvent resistant (not a big deal as I dont go slopping solvent all over the outside of my rifles) it doesnt seem to be any better than krylon when it comes to chip and scratch resistance. I wont be using it again.
Krylon and most others takes a good week or two (or more) to fully cure depending on number of coats and conditions. And ive found that if you prep it right (painting is 99% surface prep) and let it cure COMPLETELY, its very durable.
I tried some much spendier Alumahyde, and although it seems to be more solvent resistant (not a big deal as I dont go slopping solvent all over the outside of my rifles) it doesnt seem to be any better than krylon when it comes to chip and scratch resistance. I wont be using it again.
Re: painting stocks??????????
I had thought about painting my HS stock, but then I realized I don't have the talent and should leave it to a professional.
I had thought about painting my HS stock, but then I realized I don't have the talent and should leave it to a professional.
Re: painting stocks??????????
Thanks guys, i ddnt sand or prime my stock i ddnt wanna touch my stock with sand paper.... As far as clear coat goes, i thought that was applied after you paint.. this was my first job, your guys info will help, thanks. I gotta hit it a few more times but i think it looks ok.
Thanks guys, i ddnt sand or prime my stock i ddnt wanna touch my stock with sand paper.... As far as clear coat goes, i thought that was applied after you paint.. this was my first job, your guys info will help, thanks. I gotta hit it a few more times but i think it looks ok.
Re: painting stocks??????????
Id try it yourself first, if you scroll up and look at mine, its my first time ever and yeah you can tell, but after some touch up i believe she will be a beaut... It was actually pretty fun, i would atleast try it yourself then if you done like it, send it to get painted. Or you can send it to me and ill practice on your stock lol...
Id try it yourself first, if you scroll up and look at mine, its my first time ever and yeah you can tell, but after some touch up i believe she will be a beaut... It was actually pretty fun, i would atleast try it yourself then if you done like it, send it to get painted. Or you can send it to me and ill practice on your stock lol...
Re: painting stocks??????????
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gotta/start/sumwer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As far as clear coat goes, i thought that was applied after you paint.</div></div>
It is. The trick is to obey the manufacturer's recommendations for recoat times. You either have to hit it with the clear within X number of hours, or else let the color coat(s) cure for Y days before respraying with clear.
I generally find that it's best to lay down every coat (primer or adhesion promoter, then color, then clear) in one short effort, but folks with more experience than I may have better suggestions.
Read the paint can for more info, and try to stick with the same manufacturer for primer/color/clear throughout the process.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gotta/start/sumwer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As far as clear coat goes, i thought that was applied after you paint.</div></div>
It is. The trick is to obey the manufacturer's recommendations for recoat times. You either have to hit it with the clear within X number of hours, or else let the color coat(s) cure for Y days before respraying with clear.
I generally find that it's best to lay down every coat (primer or adhesion promoter, then color, then clear) in one short effort, but folks with more experience than I may have better suggestions.
Read the paint can for more info, and try to stick with the same manufacturer for primer/color/clear throughout the process.
Re: painting stocks??????????
read the chemical contents on the back of the paint can- make sure it has Xylene in it - it takes about two weeks to cure all the way (worth the wait) - this ends up being pretty damn hard for a DIY paint job.
Also, brownells alumahyde is pretty tough paint as well.
read the chemical contents on the back of the paint can- make sure it has Xylene in it - it takes about two weeks to cure all the way (worth the wait) - this ends up being pretty damn hard for a DIY paint job.
Also, brownells alumahyde is pretty tough paint as well.
Re: painting stocks??????????
Thanks guys.. i got couple fans seem to help!
Thanks guys.. i got couple fans seem to help!
Re: painting stocks??????????
Paint usually won't stick if the surface isn't clean of oils or solvents. It also needs a little "tooth" to allow the paint to grip otherwise it's like putting on a layer of saran wrap.
When painting a stock I like to use some "liquid sandpaper" which is usually available at most hardware/paint stores. It takes of most oils, especially those left behind from our hands, and dulls the surface enough to give the paint some grip. No sandpaper marks or removing any texture on the stock like H-S Precision puts on theirs.
Apparently Krylon "Fusion" has some solvents in it that tend to etch the substrate enough for the paint to stick without causing the plastic to wrinkle or "craze".
Paint usually won't stick if the surface isn't clean of oils or solvents. It also needs a little "tooth" to allow the paint to grip otherwise it's like putting on a layer of saran wrap.
When painting a stock I like to use some "liquid sandpaper" which is usually available at most hardware/paint stores. It takes of most oils, especially those left behind from our hands, and dulls the surface enough to give the paint some grip. No sandpaper marks or removing any texture on the stock like H-S Precision puts on theirs.
Apparently Krylon "Fusion" has some solvents in it that tend to etch the substrate enough for the paint to stick without causing the plastic to wrinkle or "craze".
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