- Thread starter mrbooks10
- Start date
Re: Sfp for target shooting
^ ditto
unless rangefinding with mildots or the other seemingly billion reticles out there, FFP is no big deal.
milling at any power with SFP:
1. piece of paper with several lines across it vertically at "X" inches high. i like goin in 7", 9", 12", 18" high increments
2. from the bench dial in and out your magnification at your particular distance until your desired size is bracketed. in other words at 100 yards, on 4 power, a 7" target may be bracketed by 2 dots, on 14 power 7" may be braketed by 4. whatever is more comfortable for you to see.
3. do the same at 50, 75, 125, etc.
4. put it in the data book, or on a sticker on the side of the stock or scope.
5. now when a target about 7" is found (say a cottontail rabbit), and using the above example, just adjust the magnification until bracketed by either the 2 or 4 dots.
6. look at the magnification reading. if it's on 4X and there's two dots, you know the rabbit is at 100 yards. like wise if the magnification is 14X and the rabbit is bracketed by 4 dots, you know it's at 100 yards.
7. dial the elevation in and squeeze.
spending a little time with it beforehand helps from doing math later
A 4-16 ish power seems nice for me as it allows a large FOV at shorter ranges on 4X and without the reticle covering the target, even with the SFP.
this is what i use on the .22 mag.
and at regular 10x
my generic one
as far as a dedicated target shooter at known distances, it's tough to beat a simple target dot or fine crosshairs - the smaller the better.
^ ditto
unless rangefinding with mildots or the other seemingly billion reticles out there, FFP is no big deal.
milling at any power with SFP:
1. piece of paper with several lines across it vertically at "X" inches high. i like goin in 7", 9", 12", 18" high increments
2. from the bench dial in and out your magnification at your particular distance until your desired size is bracketed. in other words at 100 yards, on 4 power, a 7" target may be bracketed by 2 dots, on 14 power 7" may be braketed by 4. whatever is more comfortable for you to see.
3. do the same at 50, 75, 125, etc.
4. put it in the data book, or on a sticker on the side of the stock or scope.
5. now when a target about 7" is found (say a cottontail rabbit), and using the above example, just adjust the magnification until bracketed by either the 2 or 4 dots.
6. look at the magnification reading. if it's on 4X and there's two dots, you know the rabbit is at 100 yards. like wise if the magnification is 14X and the rabbit is bracketed by 4 dots, you know it's at 100 yards.
7. dial the elevation in and squeeze.
spending a little time with it beforehand helps from doing math later
A 4-16 ish power seems nice for me as it allows a large FOV at shorter ranges on 4X and without the reticle covering the target, even with the SFP.
this is what i use on the .22 mag.
and at regular 10x
my generic one
as far as a dedicated target shooter at known distances, it's tough to beat a simple target dot or fine crosshairs - the smaller the better.
Re: Sfp for target shooting
There is also the possibility that your end goals may dictate how you want to set up your rimfire.
Personally, I use my .22 as a trainer to improve my shooting skills with the idea of transferring them to my 6.5 creedmoor which has a FFP scope on it, so I use a FFP scope on my trainer.
If my goal were to split hairs with my .22 I would likely be favoring a SFP scope.
There is also the possibility that your end goals may dictate how you want to set up your rimfire.
Personally, I use my .22 as a trainer to improve my shooting skills with the idea of transferring them to my 6.5 creedmoor which has a FFP scope on it, so I use a FFP scope on my trainer.
If my goal were to split hairs with my .22 I would likely be favoring a SFP scope.
Re: Sfp for target shooting
I originally wanted a FFP when I was looking for a scope.
I ended up getting a Hawke SFP to save some money.
I am now a dedicated SFP shooter since the reticule can be calibrated to whatever units you want by simply changing the power. You could calibrate it in rabbits or even squirrels if you wanted to.
EXAMPLE: You could set the scope to cover a squirrel with 4,6, or 8 dots at 50 yards(I am just throwing out numbers).
Then you would simply see how many dots the squirrel covers when you are hunting. If you set your scope to 6 dots and the squirrel covers 3, then he is at 100 yards. If he covers 4, then he is at 75 yards.
I have mine calibrated to INCHES and the power ring is at about 16x. You could do this with any scope.
I drew lines on a piece of paper exactly an inch apart and then calibrated my marks to the lines. Each mark on the reticule is 2 inches at 100 yards. To range a target, you simply count the inches. If you are ranging a 6" target and the target is 2 marks tall/wide,(each mark is 2 inches) 6 divided by 4 is 1.5, so your range is 150 yards.
If you were ranging a 7" target and it covered 1.5 dots, 7 divided by 3 (because each mark is 2 inches) is 2.3, so your yardage is 230.
I like inches better than MOA because MOA is off by about 5% and that can make a big difference.
I originally wanted a FFP when I was looking for a scope.
I ended up getting a Hawke SFP to save some money.
I am now a dedicated SFP shooter since the reticule can be calibrated to whatever units you want by simply changing the power. You could calibrate it in rabbits or even squirrels if you wanted to.
EXAMPLE: You could set the scope to cover a squirrel with 4,6, or 8 dots at 50 yards(I am just throwing out numbers).
Then you would simply see how many dots the squirrel covers when you are hunting. If you set your scope to 6 dots and the squirrel covers 3, then he is at 100 yards. If he covers 4, then he is at 75 yards.
I have mine calibrated to INCHES and the power ring is at about 16x. You could do this with any scope.
I drew lines on a piece of paper exactly an inch apart and then calibrated my marks to the lines. Each mark on the reticule is 2 inches at 100 yards. To range a target, you simply count the inches. If you are ranging a 6" target and the target is 2 marks tall/wide,(each mark is 2 inches) 6 divided by 4 is 1.5, so your range is 150 yards.
If you were ranging a 7" target and it covered 1.5 dots, 7 divided by 3 (because each mark is 2 inches) is 2.3, so your yardage is 230.
I like inches better than MOA because MOA is off by about 5% and that can make a big difference.
