With the advent of TORX screws does one still need to loc-tite them to the receiver? This will be for a 6mmREM.
Gunsmithing Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
- Thread starter JGorski
- Start date
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
Loc-tite is not the answer for bases. J D Jones once told me that life is too short to Loc-Tite base screws. As I misunderstand, the proper approach is to bed the base to the receiver stress free using Devcon or Marine Tex. Use the greased screws to align the base and gently tighten them to expel the excess epoxy and clean it up and allow to set. Then remove the screws one at a time, degrease them and reinsert them. Torque them to the recommended setting without Loc-Tite. JMHO
Loc-tite is not the answer for bases. J D Jones once told me that life is too short to Loc-Tite base screws. As I misunderstand, the proper approach is to bed the base to the receiver stress free using Devcon or Marine Tex. Use the greased screws to align the base and gently tighten them to expel the excess epoxy and clean it up and allow to set. Then remove the screws one at a time, degrease them and reinsert them. Torque them to the recommended setting without Loc-Tite. JMHO
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
OK, if I ever rebarrel the rifle will I have to take the bases off?
OK, if I ever rebarrel the rifle will I have to take the bases off?
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
Use the Blue 242 for base screws. All bases I install get it, even the bases on my signature receivers that are double pinned and run 8/40 screws.
Helps shed water if you ever get caught in the rain.
Use the Blue 242 for base screws. All bases I install get it, even the bases on my signature receivers that are double pinned and run 8/40 screws.
Helps shed water if you ever get caught in the rain.
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the Blue 242 for base screws. All bases I install get it, even the bases on my signature receivers that are double pinned and run 8/40 screws.
Helps shed water if you ever get caught in the rain. </div></div>
These TPS bases will come with 8-40s, and I have 2 bottles of 242.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the Blue 242 for base screws. All bases I install get it, even the bases on my signature receivers that are double pinned and run 8/40 screws.
Helps shed water if you ever get caught in the rain. </div></div>
These TPS bases will come with 8-40s, and I have 2 bottles of 242.
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff.
Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff.
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhanDallas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff. </div></div>
Don't fret, that red will break free with a bit of heat. I typically use a heat gun to get the metal hot to the touch and unscrew. It'll be a tough start but the screws will move eventually. Hasn't failed me yet and I've never gotten anything hot enough to destroy finishes or metals either.
I used red Loctite one scope bases years ago (before I knew better). I've since switched to using the blue and have replaced/upgraded all of the bases that were installed using the red.
It'll work but you need to have some patience.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhanDallas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff. </div></div>
Don't fret, that red will break free with a bit of heat. I typically use a heat gun to get the metal hot to the touch and unscrew. It'll be a tough start but the screws will move eventually. Hasn't failed me yet and I've never gotten anything hot enough to destroy finishes or metals either.
I used red Loctite one scope bases years ago (before I knew better). I've since switched to using the blue and have replaced/upgraded all of the bases that were installed using the red.
It'll work but you need to have some patience.
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: woodsy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhanDallas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff. </div></div>
Don't fret, that red will break free with a bit of heat. I typically use a heat gun to get the metal hot to the touch and unscrew. It'll be a tough start but the screws will move eventually. Hasn't failed me yet and I've never gotten anything hot enough to destroy finishes or metals either.
I used red Loctite one scope bases years ago (before I knew better). I've since switched to using the blue and have replaced/upgraded all of the bases that were installed using the red.
It'll work but you need to have some patience. </div></div>
Just use an old fashioned soldering iron, touch the head of the screw with it for 10-15 seconds ( depends on how hot your particular iron gets ) then unscrew. Every now and then a stubborn screw needs a little manual impact driver, just to jar it loose.
Piece of cake, red loctite is not the invincible stuff that legend has made it into. Inconvenient at times, but a good tool for many things. FWIW, I use the blue loctite for this area too.
On the original topic, I rarely bed bases. I'd rather fix the reason for needing to bed them if possible. It's more likely on a Rem action to need to shim the aft portion, to allow a reasonable amount of "up" elevation to be present in the scope after mounting. Did a scope mount on a 700 recently, only had 5 MOA up left after mounting. On a sheep hunting rifle.... not good. That one got a set of 2 piece rings, a .030 shim and a bedding job.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: woodsy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhanDallas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff. </div></div>
Don't fret, that red will break free with a bit of heat. I typically use a heat gun to get the metal hot to the touch and unscrew. It'll be a tough start but the screws will move eventually. Hasn't failed me yet and I've never gotten anything hot enough to destroy finishes or metals either.
I used red Loctite one scope bases years ago (before I knew better). I've since switched to using the blue and have replaced/upgraded all of the bases that were installed using the red.
It'll work but you need to have some patience. </div></div>
Just use an old fashioned soldering iron, touch the head of the screw with it for 10-15 seconds ( depends on how hot your particular iron gets ) then unscrew. Every now and then a stubborn screw needs a little manual impact driver, just to jar it loose.
Piece of cake, red loctite is not the invincible stuff that legend has made it into. Inconvenient at times, but a good tool for many things. FWIW, I use the blue loctite for this area too.
On the original topic, I rarely bed bases. I'd rather fix the reason for needing to bed them if possible. It's more likely on a Rem action to need to shim the aft portion, to allow a reasonable amount of "up" elevation to be present in the scope after mounting. Did a scope mount on a 700 recently, only had 5 MOA up left after mounting. On a sheep hunting rifle.... not good. That one got a set of 2 piece rings, a .030 shim and a bedding job.
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
I use blue...haven't had any issues with bases done this way, but I didnt really research that much either...
I use blue...haven't had any issues with bases done this way, but I didnt really research that much either...
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mikee Booshay</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: woodsy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhanDallas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff. </div></div>
Don't fret, that red will break free with a bit of heat. I typically use a heat gun to get the metal hot to the touch and unscrew. It'll be a tough start but the screws will move eventually. Hasn't failed me yet and I've never gotten anything hot enough to destroy finishes or metals either.
I used red Loctite one scope bases years ago (before I knew better). I've since switched to using the blue and have replaced/upgraded all of the bases that were installed using the red.
It'll work but you need to have some patience. </div></div>
Just use an old fashioned soldering iron, touch the head of the screw with it for 10-15 seconds ( depends on how hot your particular iron gets ) then unscrew. Every now and then a stubborn screw needs a little manual impact driver, just to jar it loose.
Piece of cake, red loctite is not the invincible stuff that legend has made it into. Inconvenient at times, but a good tool for many things. FWIW, I use the blue loctite for this area too.
</div></div>
Good to know that there's ways to get that stuff off. I would have thought that the heat gun would mess up a finish, but then again the temps to break aren't too high. Soldering iron idea I wouldn't have thought of, but I like it. Thanks for the ideas for if I end up taking that base off.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mikee Booshay</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: woodsy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhanDallas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use the blue. I used red the other day on a 45 cant base and now I'm wondering if I shoulda just used a 30 cant. Kind of tough to go back now that i used the 'unbreakable' stuff. </div></div>
Don't fret, that red will break free with a bit of heat. I typically use a heat gun to get the metal hot to the touch and unscrew. It'll be a tough start but the screws will move eventually. Hasn't failed me yet and I've never gotten anything hot enough to destroy finishes or metals either.
I used red Loctite one scope bases years ago (before I knew better). I've since switched to using the blue and have replaced/upgraded all of the bases that were installed using the red.
It'll work but you need to have some patience. </div></div>
Just use an old fashioned soldering iron, touch the head of the screw with it for 10-15 seconds ( depends on how hot your particular iron gets ) then unscrew. Every now and then a stubborn screw needs a little manual impact driver, just to jar it loose.
Piece of cake, red loctite is not the invincible stuff that legend has made it into. Inconvenient at times, but a good tool for many things. FWIW, I use the blue loctite for this area too.
</div></div>
Good to know that there's ways to get that stuff off. I would have thought that the heat gun would mess up a finish, but then again the temps to break aren't too high. Soldering iron idea I wouldn't have thought of, but I like it. Thanks for the ideas for if I end up taking that base off.
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
I used the blue and the 6mm is shooting once again, ready for the 600yd shoot this weekend.
I used the blue and the 6mm is shooting once again, ready for the 600yd shoot this weekend.
Re: Loc-Tite picatinny bases?
I use loctite 242 on scope mount base screws.
I have not measured the shock and vibration and done a calculation, done a design, and have a calculated safety margin.
I am at the bone head simple ditch digger level of thinking, "My scope bases came loose too many times, and they don't come loose if I use loctite 242."
I use loctite 242 on scope mount base screws.
I have not measured the shock and vibration and done a calculation, done a design, and have a calculated safety margin.
I am at the bone head simple ditch digger level of thinking, "My scope bases came loose too many times, and they don't come loose if I use loctite 242."
