I have an AAC SCAR-H SD which I bought a few years ago when they had just been released. Everyone seemd to be talking about how great the MITER system could be for adjusting POI shift. I have a compound question here so please bear with me.
It wasn't until I got my 16" OBR a few weeks ago that I really had a great use for it (before that I used it on a .300blk bolt gun which I shot maybe twice).
I went out to get some initial testing done on the OBR today and while playing around with the MITER system trying to minimize the POI shift, I started to wonder - (my first question)
As far as precision shooting applications go, how much have the suppressors improved in the past few years? Are there any gains to be had by moving up to newer can more specifically designed for precision applications?
Next,
It's too early to say how well this can is going to perform in my application, but It doesn't look tremendously promising. For those who don't know, my can features 5-point multi-start threads which supposedly allow the operator to choose one of 5 setting which yields the smallest POI shift. I have a few things I'm going to test:
- Accuracy both with and without the QD mount
- Accuracy at the setting which yields the least POI shift VS accuracy at the setting which has the tightest lockup (It's a 51 tooth mount and some "settings" yield a tighter lockup or end more precisely on on of the teeth - thus some settings leave the suppressor slightly looser than others.)
- Accuracy with the suppressor VS without (measured against the best results from test 2)
- Lateral "walk" created by the change in settings. Right now even at the best setting I have to adjust POI for both windage and elevation (if only slightly). It would be nice if that weren't so (elevation is understood when you hang a weight on the barrel, but is it normal to have a shift in windage?)
Right now the very limited testing I have done does not yield great consistent results - and consistency is everything. I am beginning to think I would prefer to ditch the MITER system altogether in favor of a lighter QD suppressor that is more dedicated to precision.I have no problem memorizing a POI shift to dial on when I take my can off, so I'm beginning to think the miter system is totally unnecessary, which leads me to my next question -
Are there any members here who have experience with the SCAR-H SD can? What kind of testing or results can you offer me? How do you view the SCAR-H SD in comparison to other suppressors you have owned or used?
FWIW, I found this in the archives about the SCAR-H mount as well:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Again. <span style="font-weight: bold">Do what I tell you.</span>
Here is how to check and see if I know what I'm talking about.
Remove flash hider. Clean crown with patch.
Now shoot gun for groups without flash hider. Did the accuracy return? I bet it did.
Now reinstall flash hider according to how AAC says to. Then shoot for groups.
If the accuracy just went to shit on you it's the flash hider.
<span style="font-weight: bold">
Here is what you need to do to fix it.</span> The inside diameter of the flash hider is called the aperture. Specifically I am talking about the part that is the tightest near the crown. That guy needs to be made bigger. Take it to a gunsmith and have him make it bigger. It should be very easy for him to do. It should be fast and cost very little. But trust me it needs to be bigger.
Assuming you do what I tell you, when you reinstall that bad boy your accuracy problems will have gone away. Feel free to buy me a rum in coke next time you see me. </div></div>
Anyone else have the experience described in that post?
It wasn't until I got my 16" OBR a few weeks ago that I really had a great use for it (before that I used it on a .300blk bolt gun which I shot maybe twice).
I went out to get some initial testing done on the OBR today and while playing around with the MITER system trying to minimize the POI shift, I started to wonder - (my first question)
As far as precision shooting applications go, how much have the suppressors improved in the past few years? Are there any gains to be had by moving up to newer can more specifically designed for precision applications?
Next,
It's too early to say how well this can is going to perform in my application, but It doesn't look tremendously promising. For those who don't know, my can features 5-point multi-start threads which supposedly allow the operator to choose one of 5 setting which yields the smallest POI shift. I have a few things I'm going to test:
- Accuracy both with and without the QD mount
- Accuracy at the setting which yields the least POI shift VS accuracy at the setting which has the tightest lockup (It's a 51 tooth mount and some "settings" yield a tighter lockup or end more precisely on on of the teeth - thus some settings leave the suppressor slightly looser than others.)
- Accuracy with the suppressor VS without (measured against the best results from test 2)
- Lateral "walk" created by the change in settings. Right now even at the best setting I have to adjust POI for both windage and elevation (if only slightly). It would be nice if that weren't so (elevation is understood when you hang a weight on the barrel, but is it normal to have a shift in windage?)
Right now the very limited testing I have done does not yield great consistent results - and consistency is everything. I am beginning to think I would prefer to ditch the MITER system altogether in favor of a lighter QD suppressor that is more dedicated to precision.I have no problem memorizing a POI shift to dial on when I take my can off, so I'm beginning to think the miter system is totally unnecessary, which leads me to my next question -
Are there any members here who have experience with the SCAR-H SD can? What kind of testing or results can you offer me? How do you view the SCAR-H SD in comparison to other suppressors you have owned or used?
FWIW, I found this in the archives about the SCAR-H mount as well:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Again. <span style="font-weight: bold">Do what I tell you.</span>
Here is how to check and see if I know what I'm talking about.
Remove flash hider. Clean crown with patch.
Now shoot gun for groups without flash hider. Did the accuracy return? I bet it did.
Now reinstall flash hider according to how AAC says to. Then shoot for groups.
If the accuracy just went to shit on you it's the flash hider.
<span style="font-weight: bold">
Here is what you need to do to fix it.</span> The inside diameter of the flash hider is called the aperture. Specifically I am talking about the part that is the tightest near the crown. That guy needs to be made bigger. Take it to a gunsmith and have him make it bigger. It should be very easy for him to do. It should be fast and cost very little. But trust me it needs to be bigger.
Assuming you do what I tell you, when you reinstall that bad boy your accuracy problems will have gone away. Feel free to buy me a rum in coke next time you see me. </div></div>
Anyone else have the experience described in that post?
