I am thinking of having custom hunting knifes made and I don't know which metal to use between stainless or 1090. I need opinions. Since there is no real designated area for this I figured I post it here. Thanks for any input!
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Knife metals?
- Thread starter snakebyte922
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Re: Knife metals?
Here are a couple links to info about various knife blade steels:
http://zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml
http://media.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/App...erial_chart.htm
You might also try the "Side Arms and K-Bars" forum to see if you can get more responses.
Here are a couple links to info about various knife blade steels:
http://zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml
http://media.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/App...erial_chart.htm
You might also try the "Side Arms and K-Bars" forum to see if you can get more responses.
Re: Knife metals?
When choosing between stainless and carbon steel blades, you will have benefits and limitations on both. Carbon is easier to sharpen (a plus in the field if you are dressing a lot of game or hitting a lot of bone - can roll the edge of a softer steel), some believe carbon takes a keener edge. The down side of carbon steel is it is less corrosion resistant and if you do not take care of the blade it will rust quickly. Some carbon steels you can literally watch rust right before your eyes.
Stainless blades can be hardened to to a higher degree and will hold an edge much longer. Some steels, such as S30V, can keep a edge for a extremely long time...an entire hunting season if you will. The down side to that is if you do get to the point where your edge dulls, you will need a practiced hand to to a good edge back on it. It takes practice. The obvious plus side is corrosion resistance.
If you hate mowing your own lawn and take your vehicle to Jiffylube to get the oil change, go stainless
As a knifemaker, I used stainless 90% of the time. The exception was damascus. Most knife users and collectors are not hard use people and stainless is low maintenance.
When choosing between stainless and carbon steel blades, you will have benefits and limitations on both. Carbon is easier to sharpen (a plus in the field if you are dressing a lot of game or hitting a lot of bone - can roll the edge of a softer steel), some believe carbon takes a keener edge. The down side of carbon steel is it is less corrosion resistant and if you do not take care of the blade it will rust quickly. Some carbon steels you can literally watch rust right before your eyes.
Stainless blades can be hardened to to a higher degree and will hold an edge much longer. Some steels, such as S30V, can keep a edge for a extremely long time...an entire hunting season if you will. The down side to that is if you do get to the point where your edge dulls, you will need a practiced hand to to a good edge back on it. It takes practice. The obvious plus side is corrosion resistance.
If you hate mowing your own lawn and take your vehicle to Jiffylube to get the oil change, go stainless
As a knifemaker, I used stainless 90% of the time. The exception was damascus. Most knife users and collectors are not hard use people and stainless is low maintenance.
Re: Knife metals?
1095 for a field knife, S30v for a working knife has been the right combo for myself. My work knives have held up for mill working, I cut conveyor belts, air hoses, and everything else. If any steel isnt heat treated properly it wont be worth a damn regardless of the steel. 154cm is damn good also. 440c is junk as far as this redneck is concerned. 1095 is a damn good performer, holds a good edge and is fairly easy to sharpen.
1095 for a field knife, S30v for a working knife has been the right combo for myself. My work knives have held up for mill working, I cut conveyor belts, air hoses, and everything else. If any steel isnt heat treated properly it wont be worth a damn regardless of the steel. 154cm is damn good also. 440c is junk as far as this redneck is concerned. 1095 is a damn good performer, holds a good edge and is fairly easy to sharpen.
Re: Knife metals?
Lots of good info on here already. If you like Stainless, you might look at the Elmax blades as well. In some testing it has showed promise even exceeding S30V for edge retention. I know Spyderco, Kershaw, and ZT are all making blades in it but it looks like you are going custom. Good luck and let us know what you come up with!
Lots of good info on here already. If you like Stainless, you might look at the Elmax blades as well. In some testing it has showed promise even exceeding S30V for edge retention. I know Spyderco, Kershaw, and ZT are all making blades in it but it looks like you are going custom. Good luck and let us know what you come up with!
Re: Knife metals?
I am a fan of Carbon Steel for the ease of sharpening and the fact that they will stay sharp longer. I like 1090 but prefer A2. If I were going Stainless I would opt for CPM-154 it is a really good knife steel. Steven
I am a fan of Carbon Steel for the ease of sharpening and the fact that they will stay sharp longer. I like 1090 but prefer A2. If I were going Stainless I would opt for CPM-154 it is a really good knife steel. Steven
Re: Knife metals?
I have a couple of customs made from S30v and love them. D2 is awesome also but does not have the corrosion resistance which is not a problem if you keep them oiled.
I have a couple of customs made from S30v and love them. D2 is awesome also but does not have the corrosion resistance which is not a problem if you keep them oiled.
Re: Knife metals?
I have a Benchmade with a 154Cm blade and truthfully I have a hard time sharpening it and it really doesn't keep a really good egde long. I use it for EDC so it doesn't see much "hard" use. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
I have a Benchmade with a 154Cm blade and truthfully I have a hard time sharpening it and it really doesn't keep a really good egde long. I use it for EDC so it doesn't see much "hard" use. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
Re: Knife metals?
My favorite steel is ZDP-189. Only problem is it can be extremely difficult to sharpen if you're not experienced. I've also had good luck with S30V, but it doesn't hold a super sharp edge (hair whittling, scary sharp) as long as ZDP. It tends to dull slightly and then keep that "mostly sharp" edge nearly indefinitely. My only experience with D2 is a Kershaw Leek, and it seemed to be softer than I would've preferred. Also consider the newer, fancier steels such as S90V, M390, CPM-M4, and CTS-20CP, if your maker is willing to work with these.
My favorite steel is ZDP-189. Only problem is it can be extremely difficult to sharpen if you're not experienced. I've also had good luck with S30V, but it doesn't hold a super sharp edge (hair whittling, scary sharp) as long as ZDP. It tends to dull slightly and then keep that "mostly sharp" edge nearly indefinitely. My only experience with D2 is a Kershaw Leek, and it seemed to be softer than I would've preferred. Also consider the newer, fancier steels such as S90V, M390, CPM-M4, and CTS-20CP, if your maker is willing to work with these.
Re: Knife metals?
I like 154cm. Most of my benchmades were it too. If you have a good sharpening system, it keeps a great edge for a decent while. I personally use the Works sharpener. By far the best sharpener I've ever used.
www.worksharptools.com
I like 154cm. Most of my benchmades were it too. If you have a good sharpening system, it keeps a great edge for a decent while. I personally use the Works sharpener. By far the best sharpener I've ever used.
www.worksharptools.com
Re: Knife metals?
That looks like a nice system, however that is also what I thought about the Lansky system that I now have and I'm not really impressed with it at all now.
That looks like a nice system, however that is also what I thought about the Lansky system that I now have and I'm not really impressed with it at all now.
Re: Knife metals?
If you're referring to the lansky system with the rods to keep a constant angle, I know I had it too. I've had them all; crock sticks, Arkansas Stones, Diamond stones, ceramics. Nothing works like that Works sharp system.
If you're referring to the lansky system with the rods to keep a constant angle, I know I had it too. I've had them all; crock sticks, Arkansas Stones, Diamond stones, ceramics. Nothing works like that Works sharp system.
Re: Knife metals?
Very little mention so far, of the Dendridich (sp) cast blade. I have one of those, and it is quite good for what I do with it.
Very little mention so far, of the Dendridich (sp) cast blade. I have one of those, and it is quite good for what I do with it.
Re: Knife metals?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: yotehunter422</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like 154cm. Most of my benchmades were it too. If you have a good sharpening system, it keeps a great edge for a decent while. I personally use the Works sharpener. By far the best sharpener I've ever used.
www.worksharptools.com </div></div>
Man has come a long way in technological inovations. We can always learn a thing or two from the old timers. I personally haven't found the need to keep my knives Razor sharp, but this may help. Not not to mention save some bucks, and room.
http://www.classicshaving.com/articles/article/590351/4057.htm
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: yotehunter422</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like 154cm. Most of my benchmades were it too. If you have a good sharpening system, it keeps a great edge for a decent while. I personally use the Works sharpener. By far the best sharpener I've ever used.
www.worksharptools.com </div></div>
Man has come a long way in technological inovations. We can always learn a thing or two from the old timers. I personally haven't found the need to keep my knives Razor sharp, but this may help. Not not to mention save some bucks, and room.
http://www.classicshaving.com/articles/article/590351/4057.htm
Re: Knife metals?
After you change your barrel after shooting out the throat, send that to a knife maker and have him make you some knife blanks from it.
After you change your barrel after shooting out the throat, send that to a knife maker and have him make you some knife blanks from it.
Re: Knife metals?
I have a few customs in D2 and S35VN, both very hard steels. I use the 8" duosharp DMT bench stone and their aligner blade guide. It allows you to keep the angle perfect so you don't put scratches on the blade. I can get my blades sharp enough to field dress and fully process 6+ whitetails before they need resharpened. They make a great stone.
I have a few customs in D2 and S35VN, both very hard steels. I use the 8" duosharp DMT bench stone and their aligner blade guide. It allows you to keep the angle perfect so you don't put scratches on the blade. I can get my blades sharp enough to field dress and fully process 6+ whitetails before they need resharpened. They make a great stone.
Re: Knife metals?
By the way, my favorite knives are by Dan Crotts, but I have also owned Gene Ingram, and Charlie May knives. I'm more into functional hunting knives than the fancy show knives with soft steel. Check out Bob Dozier knives too, he puts knives up for sale on his website every monday morning. They are usually sold by noon.
By the way, my favorite knives are by Dan Crotts, but I have also owned Gene Ingram, and Charlie May knives. I'm more into functional hunting knives than the fancy show knives with soft steel. Check out Bob Dozier knives too, he puts knives up for sale on his website every monday morning. They are usually sold by noon.
Re: Knife metals?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ryanjay11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a few customs in D2 and S35VN, both very hard steels. I use the 8" duosharp DMT bench stone and their aligner blade guide. It allows you to keep the angle perfect so you don't put scratches on the blade. I can get my blades sharp enough to field dress and fully process 6+ whitetails before they need resharpened. They make a great stone. </div></div>
I don't doubt that it wont be of service. Glade you are happy with you equipment. I have to argue with the perfect angle concept. There are diffrent angels you can use. I know this is like comparing apples to orenges in that it is a sword, but the cutting edge is the same.
http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/niku.htm
Just some food for thought is all. With stones you have more versitility in adapting the angle of the cut than a preset machine. At the least expensive.
As for putting scratches on the blade....
I've made that mistake many times lol, but you live and learn.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ryanjay11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a few customs in D2 and S35VN, both very hard steels. I use the 8" duosharp DMT bench stone and their aligner blade guide. It allows you to keep the angle perfect so you don't put scratches on the blade. I can get my blades sharp enough to field dress and fully process 6+ whitetails before they need resharpened. They make a great stone. </div></div>
I don't doubt that it wont be of service. Glade you are happy with you equipment. I have to argue with the perfect angle concept. There are diffrent angels you can use. I know this is like comparing apples to orenges in that it is a sword, but the cutting edge is the same.
http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/niku.htm
Just some food for thought is all. With stones you have more versitility in adapting the angle of the cut than a preset machine. At the least expensive.
As for putting scratches on the blade....
Re: Knife metals?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dogman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Stainless blades can be hardened to to a higher degree and will hold an edge much longer. Some steels, such as S30V, can keep a edge for a extremely long time...an entire hunting season if you will. The down side to that is if you do get to the point where your edge dulls, you will need a practiced hand to to a good edge back on it. It takes practice. The obvious plus side is corrosion resistance. If you hate mowing your own lawn and take your vehicle to Jiffylube to get the oil change, go stainless
</div></div>
Well stated. S30V is the best I have ever used. I got one of these in S30V, it will still be around generations from now.
http://www.crusaderforge.com/
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dogman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Stainless blades can be hardened to to a higher degree and will hold an edge much longer. Some steels, such as S30V, can keep a edge for a extremely long time...an entire hunting season if you will. The down side to that is if you do get to the point where your edge dulls, you will need a practiced hand to to a good edge back on it. It takes practice. The obvious plus side is corrosion resistance. If you hate mowing your own lawn and take your vehicle to Jiffylube to get the oil change, go stainless
Well stated. S30V is the best I have ever used. I got one of these in S30V, it will still be around generations from now.
http://www.crusaderforge.com/
Re: Knife metals?
i have a spyderco pm2 in s30v and i luv it
has never left my side since i bought it 2+ yrs ago .. i only sharpened it 3 times so far and i use it daily
i will say it is a pain to get that fine edge, for me atleast
i have a spyderco pm2 in s30v and i luv it
has never left my side since i bought it 2+ yrs ago .. i only sharpened it 3 times so far and i use it daily
i will say it is a pain to get that fine edge, for me atleast
