Any input on these brake attach versions? I have 2 AAC cans and am somewhat unhappy with them. I have several precision ARs and want something a bit more accurate and one that can handle a 300wm. Calibers to be shot from the AR in this suppressor will be 243wssm, 6.5 Grendel, and a 6.8 based wildcat. Bolt calibers will include 243 win, 270wsm, 7wsm and 300wm. Any suggestions advice? Is the p-1 better than the ba? Thanks!
Suppressors Thunderbeast 30-ba
- Thread starter orrbull48
- Start date
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
The accuracy and suppression performance are basically identical. The 30BA gives you the brake and can act as a thread adapter.
The accuracy and suppression performance are basically identical. The 30BA gives you the brake and can act as a thread adapter.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The accuracy and suppression performance are basically identical. The 30BA gives you the brake and can act as a thread adapter. </div></div>
+1, our 30BA is the most accurate Brake attach suppressor I've personally shot.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The accuracy and suppression performance are basically identical. The 30BA gives you the brake and can act as a thread adapter. </div></div>
+1, our 30BA is the most accurate Brake attach suppressor I've personally shot.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
I have both in addition to the 338P and waiting on forms for my 338BA.
I really like the 30BA, its on my 7WSM right now and its great. Sound suppression and accuracy are the best I have seen so far. TBAC is the go to suppressor for precision work, so far!
I have both in addition to the 338P and waiting on forms for my 338BA.
I really like the 30BA, its on my 7WSM right now and its great. Sound suppression and accuracy are the best I have seen so far. TBAC is the go to suppressor for precision work, so far!
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tom Olson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have both, they're identical on sound suppression </div></div>
How do you like them? </div></div>
well, so far they're my 'go to' cans on my tac rifles. 338BA is going on my 300 Norma next week when it shows and I use the 223P1 on my PD rifle. My AAC cans sit,,,and sit,,,
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tom Olson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have both, they're identical on sound suppression </div></div>
How do you like them? </div></div>
well, so far they're my 'go to' cans on my tac rifles. 338BA is going on my 300 Norma next week when it shows and I use the 223P1 on my PD rifle. My AAC cans sit,,,and sit,,,
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
</div></div>
I'm actually pretty upset with my AACs. M42k and 762sdn6. They keep coming loose after a few shots and have a slight wiggle to them unless I reach up and crank them back down. Both still have the 51t muzzle brake and brakeout.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
</div></div>
I'm actually pretty upset with my AACs. M42k and 762sdn6. They keep coming loose after a few shots and have a slight wiggle to them unless I reach up and crank them back down. Both still have the 51t muzzle brake and brakeout.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
</div></div>
I'm actually pretty upset with my AACs. M42k and 762sdn6. They keep coming loose after a few shots and have a slight wiggle to them unless I reach up and crank them back down. Both still have the 51t muzzle brake and brakeout. </div></div>
You can have a machinist turn down the shoulder of your brake and that goes away. I spent 30 minutes in a machine shop with a friend and he did the process. Now they lock up nice and tight. Accuracy is excellent and no wiggle or backing off at all. My 762SD-N6 locks up very tight to the flash hider I got for it. No complaints there. Maybe I got lucky with my AAC stuff? Or it is a conspiracy?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
</div></div>
I'm actually pretty upset with my AACs. M42k and 762sdn6. They keep coming loose after a few shots and have a slight wiggle to them unless I reach up and crank them back down. Both still have the 51t muzzle brake and brakeout. </div></div>
You can have a machinist turn down the shoulder of your brake and that goes away. I spent 30 minutes in a machine shop with a friend and he did the process. Now they lock up nice and tight. Accuracy is excellent and no wiggle or backing off at all. My 762SD-N6 locks up very tight to the flash hider I got for it. No complaints there. Maybe I got lucky with my AAC stuff? Or it is a conspiracy?
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
</div></div>
I'm actually pretty upset with my AACs. M42k and 762sdn6. They keep coming loose after a few shots and have a slight wiggle to them unless I reach up and crank them back down. Both still have the 51t muzzle brake and brakeout. </div></div>
You can have a machinist turn down the shoulder of your brake and that goes away. I spent 30 minutes in a machine shop with a friend and he did the process. Now they lock up nice and tight. Accuracy is excellent and no wiggle or backing off at all. My 762SD-N6 locks up very tight to the flash hider I got for it. No complaints there. Maybe I got lucky with my AAC stuff? Or it is a conspiracy? </div></div>
Would you mind showing me what it looks like now?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nothing wrong with an AAC can. The Cyclone and Cyclone K are great suppressors for the money. The Cyclone is still one of the most quiet SS cans on the market for 308. My SS Titan and MK13 remain to impressive cans in my collection, I am still very impressed with the new 90t locking system and its baffle construction.
</div></div>
I'm actually pretty upset with my AACs. M42k and 762sdn6. They keep coming loose after a few shots and have a slight wiggle to them unless I reach up and crank them back down. Both still have the 51t muzzle brake and brakeout. </div></div>
You can have a machinist turn down the shoulder of your brake and that goes away. I spent 30 minutes in a machine shop with a friend and he did the process. Now they lock up nice and tight. Accuracy is excellent and no wiggle or backing off at all. My 762SD-N6 locks up very tight to the flash hider I got for it. No complaints there. Maybe I got lucky with my AAC stuff? Or it is a conspiracy? </div></div>
Would you mind showing me what it looks like now?
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
it just turns down the locking teeth a little on the mount. this has been addressed before in another 20 threads. one in particular shows the mounts chucked up in a mandrel in a Dewalt hand drill,, that thread should answer your questions and concerns
it just turns down the locking teeth a little on the mount. this has been addressed before in another 20 threads. one in particular shows the mounts chucked up in a mandrel in a Dewalt hand drill,, that thread should answer your questions and concerns
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
Have them chuck the brake up on the end of an old barrel or something. Cut a 45 degree angle in front of the threads. (facing the ports of the brake) and your are just looking to true the face up. Should allow you a nice even surface to lock up on while engaging that next tooth tightly.
Have them chuck the brake up on the end of an old barrel or something. Cut a 45 degree angle in front of the threads. (facing the ports of the brake) and your are just looking to true the face up. Should allow you a nice even surface to lock up on while engaging that next tooth tightly.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
I run the BA on my OBR .308 and my Beanland Custom 7saum and could not be happier. It has shot some damn amazing groups with and without the can. It has been exactly .5MIL increase in POI everytime with both rifles and a AIAX .260rem I recently sold. The break is designed well in that it also doesn't jet gas into the ground. It is also a surprisingly quiet brake for the shooter; or so compared to the Surefires and PWS brakes I've been aroud used.
I run the BA on my OBR .308 and my Beanland Custom 7saum and could not be happier. It has shot some damn amazing groups with and without the can. It has been exactly .5MIL increase in POI everytime with both rifles and a AIAX .260rem I recently sold. The break is designed well in that it also doesn't jet gas into the ground. It is also a surprisingly quiet brake for the shooter; or so compared to the Surefires and PWS brakes I've been aroud used.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
The OBR in question..
The OBR in question..
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nomad L.R.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I run the BA on my OBR .308 and my Beanland Custom 7saum and could not be happier. It has shot some damn amazing groups with and without the can. It has been exactly .5MIL increase in POI everytime with both rifles and a AIAX .260rem I recently sold. The break is designed well in that it also doesn't jet gas into the ground. It is also a surprisingly quiet brake for the shooter; or so compared to the Surefires and PWS brakes I've been aroud used.
</div></div>
You guys have any issues with the 30 BA brake not seating against the shoulder of the barrel? I've only heard of AAC brakes having this issue and a spacer is needed to fix the problem.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nomad L.R.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I run the BA on my OBR .308 and my Beanland Custom 7saum and could not be happier. It has shot some damn amazing groups with and without the can. It has been exactly .5MIL increase in POI everytime with both rifles and a AIAX .260rem I recently sold. The break is designed well in that it also doesn't jet gas into the ground. It is also a surprisingly quiet brake for the shooter; or so compared to the Surefires and PWS brakes I've been aroud used.
</div></div>
You guys have any issues with the 30 BA brake not seating against the shoulder of the barrel? I've only heard of AAC brakes having this issue and a spacer is needed to fix the problem.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nomad L.R.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I run the BA on my OBR .308 and my Beanland Custom 7saum and could not be happier. It has shot some damn amazing groups with and without the can. It has been exactly .5MIL increase in POI everytime with both rifles and a AIAX .260rem I recently sold. The break is designed well in that it also doesn't jet gas into the ground. It is also a surprisingly quiet brake for the shooter; or so compared to the Surefires and PWS brakes I've been aroud used.
</div></div>
You guys have any issues with the 30 BA brake not seating against the shoulder of the barrel? I've only heard of AAC brakes having this issue and a spacer is needed to fix the problem. </div></div>
I have always put my brakes or FH in a lathe and made sure they were concentric. If they weren't, we spun them and touched them with a tool to bring them back to concentric. This same method is used to time your brakes to the rifle. I prefer to take some material off the brake when possible, then add a really small shim to lock it in place. The 30BA, YHM and AAC mounts have all needed to be times but AAC and YHM were the only ones that needed to be trued up.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nomad L.R.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I run the BA on my OBR .308 and my Beanland Custom 7saum and could not be happier. It has shot some damn amazing groups with and without the can. It has been exactly .5MIL increase in POI everytime with both rifles and a AIAX .260rem I recently sold. The break is designed well in that it also doesn't jet gas into the ground. It is also a surprisingly quiet brake for the shooter; or so compared to the Surefires and PWS brakes I've been aroud used.
</div></div>
You guys have any issues with the 30 BA brake not seating against the shoulder of the barrel? I've only heard of AAC brakes having this issue and a spacer is needed to fix the problem. </div></div>
I have always put my brakes or FH in a lathe and made sure they were concentric. If they weren't, we spun them and touched them with a tool to bring them back to concentric. This same method is used to time your brakes to the rifle. I prefer to take some material off the brake when possible, then add a really small shim to lock it in place. The 30BA, YHM and AAC mounts have all needed to be times but AAC and YHM were the only ones that needed to be trued up.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
The OBR has threads that are longer than standard. A couple users have had to use a flat washer or extra peel washer. I think Nomad LR's in the photo above just used a regular peel washer with no issue.
The OBR has threads that are longer than standard. A couple users have had to use a flat washer or extra peel washer. I think Nomad LR's in the photo above just used a regular peel washer with no issue.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The OBR has threads that are longer than standard. A couple users have had to use a flat washer or extra peel washer. I think Nomad LR's in the photo above just used a regular peel washer with no issue. </div></div>
Zak - Is the issue with the threads being too long only a concern with the 30P-1? I spoke with you guys at the Silencer Shoot here in Dallas and I left understanding the following:
The threads on the OBR is longer (0.600" vs. 0.700") than spec [Note: my #s not TBACs]
Threading a 30P-1 on an OBR might result in difficulty removing the 30P-1 because of carbon getting on the threads that are exposed inside of the can.
The 30BA wouldn't have the problem with the longer threads because of the brake design.
Have I missed the boat?
Lastly, and imagine I'm over thinking this, is there any concern with the brake on the BA because of the longer threading on the OBR?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The OBR has threads that are longer than standard. A couple users have had to use a flat washer or extra peel washer. I think Nomad LR's in the photo above just used a regular peel washer with no issue. </div></div>
Zak - Is the issue with the threads being too long only a concern with the 30P-1? I spoke with you guys at the Silencer Shoot here in Dallas and I left understanding the following:
The threads on the OBR is longer (0.600" vs. 0.700") than spec [Note: my #s not TBACs]
Threading a 30P-1 on an OBR might result in difficulty removing the 30P-1 because of carbon getting on the threads that are exposed inside of the can.
The 30BA wouldn't have the problem with the longer threads because of the brake design.
Have I missed the boat?
Lastly, and imagine I'm over thinking this, is there any concern with the brake on the BA because of the longer threading on the OBR?
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
You're right regarding the potential issue with the 30P-1. If the suppressor's threads are shorter than the muzzle threads and muzzle threads are "exposed" inside the suppressor, you can get carbon build up that will make it hard to remove.
For the 30BA, that same issue does not exist. However, its threads do not go all the way through. If you find that the brake bottoms out before its shoulder hits the barrel's shoulder, then add another flat or peel washer.
You're right regarding the potential issue with the 30P-1. If the suppressor's threads are shorter than the muzzle threads and muzzle threads are "exposed" inside the suppressor, you can get carbon build up that will make it hard to remove.
For the 30BA, that same issue does not exist. However, its threads do not go all the way through. If you find that the brake bottoms out before its shoulder hits the barrel's shoulder, then add another flat or peel washer.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
Zak,
Would a 30P-1 be fine for use on a 6.5 RSAUM? 26.5" barrel if it matters in the grand scheme of things.
Thanks
Zak,
Would a 30P-1 be fine for use on a 6.5 RSAUM? 26.5" barrel if it matters in the grand scheme of things.
Thanks
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
Yes, it'll be fine. Should be a little quieter than 7mm RM.
Yes, it'll be fine. Should be a little quieter than 7mm RM.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, it'll be fine. Should be a little quieter than 7mm RM.
</div></div>
Thank you sir
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, it'll be fine. Should be a little quieter than 7mm RM.
</div></div>
Thank you sir
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body">going to get the paperwork started on the BA tomorrow....let the wait begin! </div></div>
Sweet! I'm anxiously checking the status on their website everyday. How long did your Form3 take to clear? Mine was submitted 21 June.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body">going to get the paperwork started on the BA tomorrow....let the wait begin! </div></div>
Sweet! I'm anxiously checking the status on their website everyday. How long did your Form3 take to clear? Mine was submitted 21 June.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
How about making a 30[BA|P-1] kurtz (7"?) for 300 BLK?
How about making a 30[BA|P-1] kurtz (7"?) for 300 BLK?
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
We can make a short version of a 30BA/P-1 on a custom basis, but everyone who has thought about it ends up buying a regular one. We'd just omit a couple baffles.
We can make a short version of a 30BA/P-1 on a custom basis, but everyone who has thought about it ends up buying a regular one. We'd just omit a couple baffles.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
Thunder Beast makes a GREAT product. I'll be adding them to my inventory shortly.
Thunder Beast makes a GREAT product. I'll be adding them to my inventory shortly.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body">anyone know if the 30-BA will handle the 300RUM? </div></div>
That might be up over the powder limit and I would be considering a 338BA for that application.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: orrbull48</div><div class="ubbcode-body">anyone know if the 30-BA will handle the 300RUM? </div></div>
That might be up over the powder limit and I would be considering a 338BA for that application.
Re: Thunderbeast 30-ba
It will survive it no problem. But the 338BA is a better choice for cartridges that have more than about 80 grains of power (ie, bigger than .300 Win Mag)
It will survive it no problem. But the 338BA is a better choice for cartridges that have more than about 80 grains of power (ie, bigger than .300 Win Mag)
