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Inside neck reaming

Re: Inside neck reaming

An inside neck reamer is generally used to cut the doughnut off the inside of the neck (after resizing and trimming many times).

An outside neck trimmer is used to cut the neck wall to constant thickness.

If you have a factory chamber, neighter is "all that useful".

If you have a custom tight match chamber, the neck trimmer is useful, but not mandatory untilyou start shooting 5-shot groups in the 2s (0.2xxx") at 100 yards.

If you have a custom tight match chamber and are shooting long bullets where the doughnut is causing interference problems in the throat as you chamber a round, then the inside reamer is in order.
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

In other words, inside neck reaming is not a solution for anything beyond the first sentence of the above post....and then with a precision reamer that touches nothing BUT the donut. In other words, for 99% of handloaders, it may sound good but it's just a buzzword; forget it. BB
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

I find inside neck reaming useful when resizing 30-06 to 25-05 to achieve uniform neck thickness. I outside trim at the same time with the K&M tool. Inside reaming makes a smooth clean surface and helps control neck tension.
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

And, you know what? Just as soon as you tell somebody that inside neck reaming is an obscure endeavor, along comes some dink that will disagree. Never mind that resizing 30'06 to 25'06 is already stupid, now you must inside ream AND outside trim? It so happens that I use 270 brass for my 25'06Ackley because of the length and the flash hole and the strength of the cases, because the 270 is designed for a bit higher pressures.

But, other than the two of us, nobody else would bother, nor should they when perfectly good factory brass is available, in quantity.

But seriously, the op probably doesn't know what we are talking about and as I said, for 99% of the handloaders out there, they can just forget the word, as it has no practical application. (hey, no offense, k?)
BB
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: perazzisc3</div><div class="ubbcode-body">thanks for the intel, i bought one i think i wasted my money. </div></div> You're not alone, in an attempt to chase the Holy Grail we've all done it.........
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EXTREMEPREJUDICE</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: perazzisc3</div><div class="ubbcode-body">thanks for the intel, i bought one i think i wasted my money. </div></div> You're not alone, in an attempt to chase the Holy Grail we've all done it......... </div></div>

I just got one that also doubles as a pilot for my neck trimmer. If needed, it takes care of the doughnut. In not, it just pilots the neck turning process. I only neck turn to make sure that the necks are close to uniform in thickness and yield more uniform neck tension. That's about the only value of the process if shooting in a factory chamber.
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

BuzzBoss - have you always been a jackass or did you have to work at it? I bet it comes natural for you. Nobody wizzed on your post, why do you feel compelled to disrespect other people who try to help?

To the OP - sorry for the negative post. I usually ignore derogatory comments on these forums but I get real tired of idiots who can't respect other's inputs becasuse they are different from theirs.
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

Unless there is a real need, skip it. us benchrest folks prefer outside neck turning, but the dreaded donut is a reason to inside turn.
Yes, I have necked down brass (260 from 308) and that mandated neck turning and my benchguns are all tight necked so its mandatory there too.
But without a tight necked gun, I would save my time. Some will take a little off the outside just for consistency reasons but I am not one of them.
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

i like the k&m tool to. Anything we do to aid in consistancy will aid in consistancy. I form alot of cases out of 3006 cases. Why cuz i have a bucket full of them.
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

Flashdance hon, sorry if I offended you. I was just pointing out the fact that inside neck reaming is almost totally unnecessary, until you came along and made it seem a completely reasonable option. Now, the man is unsure because of your worthless contribution. And, you take issue with my opinion? I stand behind my comments. Can you really justify what you do? Hardly.

Again, I'm sorry to piss you off but you could have kept your obscure contribution to yourself and the guy would have got the correct message. All you did was confuse the issue. Congratulations on that; our hero, flashhole <span style="text-decoration: underline">inside neck reams</span> and wants everybody to know it!
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

Could someone please post a pic or link to a pic of the doughnut on the inside of a case neck?

Thanks!
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

may be hard to get a good pic of one, but if you got it, you know it. Besides, if you stick a bullet into the UN-sized case and it hits something, well, you got got ya a doughnut! If you seat the bullet into that doughnut, all sorta funky crap will happen to your accuracy.

I get dougnnuts when I fireform Lapua 22-250 into 6xc and instead of cutting them out, which is a PITA, I just throat my bbls a wee bit out so I can seat the bullets out in front of the doughnut and avoid reaming cases. Problem solved. Of course, if you cant adjust your bbl throat, its reaming time. If you have to ream, get access to a minilathe and chuck them up and use a K&M reamer. makes it a bit more bearable, but still a PITA.
 
Re: Inside neck reaming

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mudcat-NC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">may be hard to get a good pic of one, but if you got it, you know it. Besides, if you stick a bullet into the UN-sized case and it hits something, well, you got got ya a doughnut! If you seat the bullet into that doughnut, all sorta funky crap will happen to your accuracy.

I get dougnnuts when I fireform Lapua 22-250 into 6xc and instead of cutting them out, which is a PITA, I just throat my bbls a wee bit out so I can seat the bullets out in front of the doughnut and avoid reaming cases. Problem solved. Of course, if you cant adjust your bbl throat, its reaming time. If you have to ream, get access to a minilathe and chuck them up and use a K&M reamer. makes it a bit more bearable, but still a PITA.

</div></div>

Another alternative to reaming, when shooting in a factory chambered rifle, is to merely use a separate expander like the Sinclair Expander die. If one neck sizes with a bushing/shoulder bump die, there is no expander ball on the de-priming rod. The mandrel on the expander die will move any doughnut to the outside of the case. Some will follow up with a pass through the neck turning process to remove the excess metal outside the neck and others just leave it as somewhat of a centering ring, just like partial neck sizing.

Each method has it's own merits in the individuals mind. What's right or wrong isn't as important as what works. If it works for the particular individual so be it.
 
If you inside neck ream and don't have a die with a bushing for neck sizing, you will end up not being able to seat the bullet.
Don't ask how I know this.
 
If you turn or ream necks for factory rifles also make sure you take off as little as possible or you may get some blow by. My cousin was turning necks for a Cooper and had this happen, he called Cooper and they told him to stop turning necks because they use a NO NECK TURN BARREL. I had never heard of such a thing.
 
To the OP - sorry for the negative post. I usually ignore derogatory comments on these forums but I get real tired of idiots who can't respect other's inputs becasuse they are different from theirs.

Maybe he's an elected official.
 
I ream my .30-06 cases at the .25 caliber stage when I'm reforming them into .22-250 fitted cases; I turn them after the last step. In that process reaming is a small help but none of it's very helpful info for the OP so I kept my trap shut until now and only mention it to make my own point about trying to give useful info rather than trying to sound like an expert.
 
If you turn or ream necks for factory rifles also make sure you take off as little as possible or you may get some blow by. My cousin was turning necks for a Cooper and had this happen, he called Cooper and they told him to stop turning necks because they use a NO NECK TURN BARREL. I had never heard of such a thing.

I found that that "blow by tends to be minimized by just "upping the load". The only loads that smoke the outside of the case necks (turned) in my factory chamber are the ones that are way down near the starting load. More pressure helps assure the seal.
 
"..he called Cooper and they told him to stop turning necks because they use a NO NECK TURN BARREL. I had never heard of such a thing."

Yeah, you have but by a different name; it's a normal "factory" chamber - SAAMI dimension chambers make a "NO NECK TURN BARREL."

We seal the cases with chamber pressure, not thick necks.
 
I know SAAMI specs are on the safe(loose) side but I had never it stated that way. I have turned necks for other factory rifles with good results but definitely not required.