Re: Mixing mil-dot and MOA reticles and knobs
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 41 MT FITTER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Eric, feel free to help me out here for the benifit of others if you want, and I'm still interested to see if you have any ideas for me.
I reckon its stupid that they are allowed to make them that way, but in some respects it promotes adaptability for a shooter.
It definately promotes learning the nuts and bolts before you learn to rely on the gadgets.
Anyway, I'm gonna range off that IPHY turret and see if I can come up with some 1/10 numbers that someone else can play with and maybe my abstract thoughts can be of some benifit to everyone else in the same situation.
I'm definately convinced that there are uses for both focal planes, but I will never buy a second focal plane again, unless the base power is 10.
The only trouble with that though is that in low light, if you haven't divided your objective lens diameter by your pupil size and come up with your match, you may have issues.
10by40 would be 4 and if you have a 6mm pupil you get issues with that optic ring blurring.
So I appreciated all the advice in other posts TELLING me to go with a fixed 10* scope and I did some research; if you have mouse eyes go for it.
And you definately want to find one that has a diopter adjustment even after you find the correct eye relief and power for yourself.
Red/green, not so important, but I think to have a side focus dial is easier on the shooter, and also if its variable, to look for one that has the increments marked on the rearward side of the adjusting ring and definately with a raised knob of some sort. Depending what you are doing, It'd be bad to pop your mellon up too high above your scope!
Anyway, the other thing I found is that if you buy a cheaper scope (they like to use the words SWAT, SNIPER, and TACTICAL to describe them so as to rope you in) with say "6 turns or what they say is 60moa to sell it", that if you run your elevation anything further than 1 rotation off center travel to zero it, that you compromize the travel of your windage adjustment on cheaper scopes considerably and it tends to swing the reticle through a taller arc rather than laterally across the tube. (look down the objective lens and play with the dials and you can see what I mean)
I also checked it out by just for grins, puttting a 20moa rail on the action and seeing if the .308 would even come close to zero @ 200 yards---WRONG---so if you want to go with the cheap scope they say is a 1000yard tactical you might make some 600yard shots with it just fine.
Put it on a 20moa rail and yes, you might make some 600 to 1200 yarders with it and you'd better be ready to lose sight of your target between 0 and 500 yards because you'll be aiming 3 feet low and goodluck. </div></div>
All I am saying is you do not need matching reticles, that it is easy to adapt, however, you should always choose matching if given the choice.
You have a lot of stuff in your post, talking about FFP and SFP, lowlight and what not... here all I am referring to is matching reticle.
