- Thread starter Lofty
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Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
Do you have a FIELD gage?
Do you have a FIELD gage?
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I have a rifle that closes on a no go gauge......a little stiff but still closes, is that ok?
If I remember correctly the problem is if the bolt won't close on a go gauge.......is that correct? </div></div>
Define "a little stiff". A bolt action has a good amount of camming force in closing the bolt.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I have a rifle that closes on a no go gauge......a little stiff but still closes, is that ok?
If I remember correctly the problem is if the bolt won't close on a go gauge.......is that correct? </div></div>
Define "a little stiff". A bolt action has a good amount of camming force in closing the bolt.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
You should close on a go guage, then meet resistance on the no-go guage, even if you meet resistance at 95% of the bolt throw. You should not "force" the bolt closed. If it closes easily on the no-go then you have to get the field guage. If it closes on the field guage, then the rifle is unsafe to fire.
What type of rifle is this.
You should close on a go guage, then meet resistance on the no-go guage, even if you meet resistance at 95% of the bolt throw. You should not "force" the bolt closed. If it closes easily on the no-go then you have to get the field guage. If it closes on the field guage, then the rifle is unsafe to fire.
What type of rifle is this.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
Any resistance equals a no-go.
Any resistance equals a no-go.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.
Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
Dose it shoot well ?
Dose it shoot well ?
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
If the bolt closed on the no go you have excess head space witch is dangerous and can cause case rupture
If the bolt closed on the no go you have excess head space witch is dangerous and can cause case rupture
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
on the no go gauge the bolt should only be able to be colsed half way. there are a few videos on youtube about that
on the no go gauge the bolt should only be able to be colsed half way. there are a few videos on youtube about that
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: the_fng</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought they were called a No-go for a reason...as in, the bolt should not close on it. </div></div>
That was my understanding.
Using this same gauge on my own .243 the bolt just starts to cam over, but then locks in place. You can definitely feel metal to metal and forcing it would damage something.
This is my buddies rifle. Its brand new....only fired by the smith that built it, I think 3 rounds just to check function. It is also chambered in .243.
Like I said, you can feel that it is definitely different than a go gauge in this rifle. With a go gauge the bolt just drops into place like it does on an empty chamber. With the no go, you can feel a little bump and then the bolt feels sticky going down, like the action is gummed up.....but it does close.
As I mentioned, the smith is very well respected on here so Im beginning to wonder if I just got a shitty gauge, its a Forster.
I guess Ill call him today and see how he wants to proceed.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: the_fng</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought they were called a No-go for a reason...as in, the bolt should not close on it. </div></div>
That was my understanding.
Using this same gauge on my own .243 the bolt just starts to cam over, but then locks in place. You can definitely feel metal to metal and forcing it would damage something.
This is my buddies rifle. Its brand new....only fired by the smith that built it, I think 3 rounds just to check function. It is also chambered in .243.
Like I said, you can feel that it is definitely different than a go gauge in this rifle. With a go gauge the bolt just drops into place like it does on an empty chamber. With the no go, you can feel a little bump and then the bolt feels sticky going down, like the action is gummed up.....but it does close.
As I mentioned, the smith is very well respected on here so Im beginning to wonder if I just got a shitty gauge, its a Forster.
I guess Ill call him today and see how he wants to proceed.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
That is the best bet, a new build should not close on the no-go guage. If we were talking about buying a milsurp, then I would move to a field guage. On a new build, closing on a no-go is not acceptable.
That is the best bet, a new build should not close on the no-go guage. If we were talking about buying a milsurp, then I would move to a field guage. On a new build, closing on a no-go is not acceptable.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: roggom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That is the best bet, a new build should not close on the no-go guage. If we were talking about buying a milsurp, then I would move to a field guage. On a new build, closing on a no-go is not acceptable. </div></div>
Thats what I was thinking.
Im not gonna even bother at this point. Im gonna just take to my local guy here. He can set it back a turn and rechamber....he said the barrel wont lose more than about a 16th of an inch.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: roggom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That is the best bet, a new build should not close on the no-go guage. If we were talking about buying a milsurp, then I would move to a field guage. On a new build, closing on a no-go is not acceptable. </div></div>
Thats what I was thinking.
Im not gonna even bother at this point. Im gonna just take to my local guy here. He can set it back a turn and rechamber....he said the barrel wont lose more than about a 16th of an inch.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.</span> </div></div>
Who built it so others can check their heads pace It's a serious safety issue.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.</span> </div></div>
Who built it so others can check their heads pace It's a serious safety issue.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: roggom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That is the best bet, a new build should not close on the no-go guage. If we were talking about buying a milsurp, then I would move to a field guage. On a new build, closing on a no-go is not acceptable. </div></div>
Thats what I was thinking.
Im not gonna even bother at this point. Im gonna just take to my local guy here. He can set it back a turn and rechamber....he said the barrel wont lose more than about a 16th of an inch.
</div></div>
Did you contact the smith who made the rifle?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: roggom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That is the best bet, a new build should not close on the no-go guage. If we were talking about buying a milsurp, then I would move to a field guage. On a new build, closing on a no-go is not acceptable. </div></div>
Thats what I was thinking.
Im not gonna even bother at this point. Im gonna just take to my local guy here. He can set it back a turn and rechamber....he said the barrel wont lose more than about a 16th of an inch.
</div></div>
Did you contact the smith who made the rifle?
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
As long as I still had confidence in the builder, I would discuss it with him. He owes it to you to provide a rifle that’s in spec and if it were me, I’d probably feel that I owed it to him to give him the chance to correct it.
Good luck and hope she turns out to be a laser!
Edit: Why would you're local smith want to set it back a turn? Because of muzzle brake or iron sights?
As long as I still had confidence in the builder, I would discuss it with him. He owes it to you to provide a rifle that’s in spec and if it were me, I’d probably feel that I owed it to him to give him the chance to correct it.
Good luck and hope she turns out to be a laser!
Edit: Why would you're local smith want to set it back a turn? Because of muzzle brake or iron sights?
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shankster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.</span> </div></div>
Who built it so others can check their heads pace It's a serious safety issue. </div></div>
Normally I would post it....but Im an idiot. Im not even gonna take the remotest chance of saying anything and dinging this guys reputation based on my overwhelmingly limited knowledge compared to his.
This guy is widely considered one of the best rifle builders in the market by people everywhere, including this site.
I'll wait until I speak with him first.
Edit: Just got off the phone with the builder and he was very helpful. There is no issue. He explained that its my gauge, Forster does their gauges a little different and its actually a Forster field gauge that is a true no go gauge. he explained that he chambers a tactical match rifle with just a tad of wiggle room to allow for heat and debris during faster fire strings in a dirty and dusty environment.
This guys reputation alone has me not concerned one bit.
I was more concerned that there was something I was missing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shankster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.</span> </div></div>
Who built it so others can check their heads pace It's a serious safety issue. </div></div>
Normally I would post it....but Im an idiot. Im not even gonna take the remotest chance of saying anything and dinging this guys reputation based on my overwhelmingly limited knowledge compared to his.
This guy is widely considered one of the best rifle builders in the market by people everywhere, including this site.
I'll wait until I speak with him first.
Edit: Just got off the phone with the builder and he was very helpful. There is no issue. He explained that its my gauge, Forster does their gauges a little different and its actually a Forster field gauge that is a true no go gauge. he explained that he chambers a tactical match rifle with just a tad of wiggle room to allow for heat and debris during faster fire strings in a dirty and dusty environment.
This guys reputation alone has me not concerned one bit.
I was more concerned that there was something I was missing.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shankster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.</span> </div></div>
Who built it so others can check their heads pace It's a serious safety issue. </div></div>
Normally I would post it....but Im an idiot. Im not even gonna take the remotest chance of saying anything and dinging this guys reputation based on my overwhelmingly limited knowledge compared to his.
This guy is widely considered one of the best rifle builders in the market by people everywhere, including this site.
I'll wait until I speak with him first. </div></div>
Smart move. Cheers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shankster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I'm not torquing it at all......I wouldn't force it. I can close it with pressure from my pinky fairly easily.
On the go gauge it just kind of falls into place. On the no go, it feels like its got a little crud in there making it a bit stiff.
Other 308 family rifles intried will not close on this same no go gauge......well maybe if I jammed it hard, but you can definatley feel the mechanical lock.
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is a Surgeon action built by a VERY respected gunsmith.</span> </div></div>
Who built it so others can check their heads pace It's a serious safety issue. </div></div>
Normally I would post it....but Im an idiot. Im not even gonna take the remotest chance of saying anything and dinging this guys reputation based on my overwhelmingly limited knowledge compared to his.
This guy is widely considered one of the best rifle builders in the market by people everywhere, including this site.
I'll wait until I speak with him first. </div></div>
Smart move. Cheers.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
As explained a GO is self-explanatory.
A NO-GO is at the maximum limit, and gages vary between manufacturers (Forster, Manson, PT&G, etc.).
If a bolt closes on a FIELD (REJECT) gage the weapon is UNSAFE.
As explained a GO is self-explanatory.
A NO-GO is at the maximum limit, and gages vary between manufacturers (Forster, Manson, PT&G, etc.).
If a bolt closes on a FIELD (REJECT) gage the weapon is UNSAFE.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
FWIW I've seen as much as .002" difference in gages from different manufactures. Personaly if it was my rifle I wouldn't be concerned about it but as a smith it should be closer than that and may well be using different gages. From what you've said there is no reason to rechamber the barrel. Set it up between centers and take .002" or so off the shoulder if it makes you feel better.
FWIW I've seen as much as .002" difference in gages from different manufactures. Personaly if it was my rifle I wouldn't be concerned about it but as a smith it should be closer than that and may well be using different gages. From what you've said there is no reason to rechamber the barrel. Set it up between centers and take .002" or so off the shoulder if it makes you feel better.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
As a side thought if you press a bit hard and get the bolt to close on a NO-GO guage you will sometimes press a little ring in the shoulder of the chamber that will be visable on the fired case.
As a side thought if you press a bit hard and get the bolt to close on a NO-GO guage you will sometimes press a little ring in the shoulder of the chamber that will be visable on the fired case.
Re: Go / No Go gauge question.
Thought Id post a follow up on this.
It appears there was absolutely NOTHING to worry about on this rifle.
To say it is a hammer is an understatement.
3100 FPS with 42.3 grains of H4350, 115 DTACS...
3 shot group
5 shot group
Thought Id post a follow up on this.
It appears there was absolutely NOTHING to worry about on this rifle.
To say it is a hammer is an understatement.
3100 FPS with 42.3 grains of H4350, 115 DTACS...
3 shot group
5 shot group
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