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Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

Tomekeuro85

Sergeant
Commercial Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 11, 2007
592
1
38
Chicago Suburbs, IL
I have a hallway in my basement that I want to cut off with a door.

I have a door already, and the hallway is about 6" (at most) wider on each side than the door is.

Does anyone know an approximate cost for someone to come and put this in for me, with materials and labor, minus the door?

Thanks
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

Talk to Queequeg. Thats what he does everyday. Do it yuorself. Piece of cake. Mimial tools needed...

-Hammerdrill and bolts to secure the studs to the floor.
-Tape to measure with
-Saw to cut studs.
-Drill (same one as above)and screws or nails to bang the 2x4's together and secure to ceiling /floorjoists
-Level to plumb everything.
-Utility knife to cut shitrock.
--Use the same drill and screws or shitrock nails to put up shitrock, or use paneling as theres no finishing like with shitrock.
-Presto...door. Shouldnt take more than an easy morning. Youll need someone for a short while to hold the door while yuo get it set and secured.

If you do hire someone, and he wants more than $200.00, $250.00 max, (plus additional materials) get someone else, cause hes either an idiot who is takeing too long, or a shyster.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

If you are handy at all, you could just do some research on the net and do it yourself, not too complicated of a task.

But then again I understand time cost. So if you that busy, call a couple of contractors in your area and get some quotes and compare. Their estimates will be better than a bunch of guys who don't live in your area trying to tell you it would only cost X when really it might cost Y where you live.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

How far South 'burb are you? PM me if you want.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">$50,000!

Plus expenses!

Per day! </div></div>

That's the "if you help" price, right?
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">$50,000!

Plus expenses!

Per day!</div></div>

Did you used to be a Plumber?
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

I have a sneaking suspicion that this isn't your normal, average everyday door.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

So you want both sides of the door framed with 2x4, dry walled, compounded, sanded, painted, and then the door installed, shimmed, trimmed? Material I would say is around $150. the lumber, drywall, screws, drywall compound, paint, shims are not expensive at all. I could do that job in about 4hrs. Labor cost? About a case of beer.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

make sure and put a header in,thats in a basement so it's load bearing. 2-2x10s with a 2x4 bottom plate for a header.Header size will be door size +5 inchs.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrassy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">make sure and put a header in,thats in a basement so it's load bearing. 2-2x10s with a 2x4 bottom plate for a header.Header size will be door size +5 inchs. </div></div>

Are we talking a garage door? Why must the new wall be load bearing if the floor above is already being carried by the existing structure?

If structure is removed it must be replaced but a simple partition of one space into two, with a door between them does not mean it must be load bearing, let alone with a header (Beam) that is grossly over sized for the span in question.

A bearing wall with a 3-0 door would be amply provided for with 2 2x4s with a 1/2" plywood rip sandwiched between them, nailed to the stud on each side with load transferred to the jacks they rest upon.

This is a good example:

http://www.finishabasement.com/construction/framing_doors.htm

rough-door-opening.gif
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

well standard practice here is 2-2x10s with a 2x4 bottom plate in a load bearing wall in a basement.Now what i don't know is if the floor joists run parallel or perpindicular to the opening where he wants the door.If parallel it is not load bearing.If the joists are perpindicular then that wall is load bearing and code requires a header.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrassy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">well standard practice here is 2-2x10s with a 2x4 bottom plate in a load bearing wall in a basement.Now what i don't know is if the floor joists run parallel or perpindicular to the opening where he wants the door.If parallel it is not load bearing.<span style="color: #3366FF">If the joists are perpindicular then that wall is load bearing and code requires a header.</span> </div></div>

Not necessarily. Adding a wall beneath an existing floor, as in a basement partition, does not constitute a requirement for framing it as a bearing wall.

Again, if the existing structure is already carried by the structure in place, an additional wall, regardless of being parallel or perpendicular to the lay of the ceiling joists of the floor above it, does not require that wall be built to carry a load that does not exist.

In fact, the small section of wall the OP describes could just as easily be framed with 25 gauge metal studs and track. It is done all the time, is amply code compliant for the purposes he describes.

A header of the height you describe would eat up a considerable amount of space. 2 x 10s are 9 1/4" in height. Add to that the two 2x4s at the top of a bearing wall and the reduction in height is a total of 12 1/4". The standard rough opening required for a 6'/8" Prehung door unit is 82" ! The total floor to ceiling height of this basement must then be at least 94 1/4" to allow a wall framed using such a beefy header!

Additionally, if the wall is truly load bearing then merely building it as you describe with out ascertaining the depth of concrete in the footprint of this wall is just shoddy. In fact, a load bearing footer must be provided.

The predicate for calculating the size of a header is based on the total span and the live and dead loads that will be carried by it.

A basic space dividing partition erected in an existing basement, in a sound structure, almost never requires any more structure than that required to withstand the load of the wall itself. Hence the ability to use lightweight metal studs, half inch drywall and a prehung door unit.

But hey, if you want to use doubled up 2 x 10s, 2 x 12s, a parallam, an LVL or even a steel I-Beam, feel free! If it makes you feel better and the door will fit, no one is harmed!
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

yes assuming the floor joists are TJIs or trussed floor system there would not be a load and i would not have a problem framing the way you described with wood or metal.

If the floor system was 2x10 joists @ 16"o.c. and perpindicular i would pocket the end of the two hallway walls to accept my 2-2x10 header,being aware of the r,o, door height(and trim).Then infill the 6 inchs on each side as he described to get the final r.o.Whatever load would be trnsferred to the two side walls which are on footings.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

Find a local "handyman" to do the job. It's a fairly straightforward install and is purely aesthetic as far as structure goes. There is no risk in cheaping out on the handyman as long as he can read a tape, level, and square.

jrassy, there are only so many ways it can be said. queequeg has just about covered them all. You are only embarrassing yourself now.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

queequeg said it all and as for code that even varies from state to state! We have to put HURRICANE strapping on trusses and I'm in Iowa! which then it varies town to town also!
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

I would charge $200 probably 3 to 40 hours max
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

I am not embarrassing myself now,just having a conversation about construction with QQ,if you want to flirt with him by butting in go ahead.
As to QQ response,yes you are correct,there really isn't much of a load,and the method you described should work just fine,if there is no other factors.

as for the cost,is this all inclusive?framing,rock,mud & tape,door install,trim? Glad you handymen want to do all that for 200.00.
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrassy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I am not embarrassing myself now,just having a conversation about construction with QQ,if you want to flirt with him by butting in go ahead.
As to QQ response,yes you are correct,there really isn't much of a load,and the method you described should work just fine,if there is no other factors.

as for the cost,is this all inclusive?framing,rock,mud & tape,door install,trim? Glad you handymen want to do all that for 200.00.

</div></div>

Seriously! It's $49,800 less than I would charge! Not including expenses!

laugh.gif


Just kidding. For labor only, to frame the wall as I describe using 2x4s, 1/2" rock, 20 minute mud, a prehung door, with everything on site, I'd like $400-$600 (Depending on how much crap is in the way, how hot the Mrs. is, etc.
laugh.gif
) as it's only about a half day's work but something of a day killer and rounding up is reasonable.

I accept high end optics as tips too!

All good J man, all good!
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

Now that wood photo QQ made is right on, but sorry, no woodpecker here
wink.gif
Metal frame and track for me. five layers of 'grey board' and a hidden door(QQ you DO remember a certain request for a plan right?). And yes, it IS a gun safe...No2 has a serious nice closet that ends right in our MBR corner so a door with a small 'cloaking' shelf would work so long as it was fairly hidden behind the shelf. The end result after five layers of grey board will be 26" x 26" x 7'10". A 24" door is fine. Yes, the floor is also five layers of grey board. That is, so long as I can seal the door right, a burn time that will let the entire house burn down around it.

If you buy the tools, you can DIY this easy, really. It's, uh wellll, skill level 2, but doable for a amateur, really, that is unless you got a Panty 6 yelling that iot better look perfect, well then maybe you might want someone else to do it if you do not passess the proper skillsets or confidance
 
Re: Home Construction question, $ estimate for a door.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(QQ you DO remember a certain request for a plan right?).</div></div>

I do now...vaguely.

It was a head scratcher as I recall and made my brain hurt!