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Suppressors 300wm Suppressor

Jig Stick

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 27, 2010
1,439
4
44
Pittsburgh PA
I am in the process of finalizing my trust which im forming to purchase a suppressor for my 300winmag, M!A''a, and 45cal pistols. Im not finding many reviews and opinions regarding the performance of the different available cans for the 300winmag. Does anybody have first had experience suppressing a 300winmag? Im currently considering the Gemtech Sandstorm, Thundertrap, and AAC cans.

PS: This is my first suppressor purchase.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

Look through some of the older posts on this very same topic. You will find a overwelming postitive response for Thunderbeast. We sell a good number of them and I have yet to hear from someone who is unhappy with theirs.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

I am also looking to make a first time surpressor purchase for 223, both bolt and SCAR rifle. A 300 win mag a bolt 308 and SCAR 308. if a 30 cal will sfaely cover 300 wmg and 308, and another for bolt 223 and semiauto 223. Alli will need to two maybe one 22Lr pistol and ruger 10/22 rifle. I hope to apply by trust before that option goes away, one purchase all items on one tax form. Any advise or help is apprecaited i advance thanks guys.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

338BA on a 7WSM is hot sex! I shoot mine on my 7WSM and 6.5 SAUM a lot. I don't think it has ever seen a 338LM round. I do have a 338B on my 300WM and the suppression level is really good. Probably the best sounding suppressor next to my Tiger Shark.
 
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I like my YHM SS 30cal and it is rated for magnum calibers. Haven't tried it yet on anything over 308 but I've read it is every bit as good as the thunderbeast just heavy as hell.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

i ordered a 30P for my 300 and 6cm.
 
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I am really considering this TBAC 30p. I am most concerned about POI shift over db reduction. My 300wm is a tack driver and I would hate to lose accuracy when shooting with the can on. From what im finding online, the 30p seems to maintain POI pretty well. How do you clean the 30p? This will be my first can and I am not sure about maintenance. Do you have to clean out the baffles ever? I would imagine they eventually get filled with carbon.
 
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30p-1 might have some shift. The question you need to ask yourself is will I ever
want to shoot without it. I can answer that-NO. Accuracy should improve especially
on a 300 wm. A lot of folks on here would probably recommend you step up to the 338 TBAC can for your 300. I can't speak to that.

TBAC cans are sealed you won't be cleaning anything on the inside.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m14er</div><div class="ubbcode-body">30p-1 might have some shift. The question you need to ask yourself is will I ever
want to shoot without it. I can answer that-NO. Accuracy should improve especially
on a 300 wm. A lot of folks on here would probably recommend you step up to the 338 TBAC can for your 300. I can't speak to that.

<span style="color: #CC6600">TBAC cans are sealed you won't be cleaning anything on the inside.</span> </div></div>

Slow Down..... you can easily clean it with "the dip" or just really hot soapy water for about 12 hours. These precision cans dont need to be taken apart to be cleaned...
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

Why would I want to step up to the 338 sized can for use on a 300winmag? My bolt rifles include a few 300winmags, a 30.06, a 6.5x47, a 270, and a 308. I also have a few M1A's and Fals. I think the 30p could be used on all of these rifles?

So if the 30p is sealed, I can only clean it by soaking in hydrogen peroxide mixed with vinegar? Or soapy water? Easy enough. Do suppressors every "wear out"? If so, how many shots can a typical can take before it gets "loud"
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jig Stick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Would a 300winmag rated suppressor do anything for my 6.5x47 </div></div>

Yes, i have tried a .30 cal can on my .260 , works well
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jig Stick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why would I want to step up to the 338 sized can for use on a 300winmag? My bolt rifles include a few 300winmags, a 30.06, a 6.5x47, a 270, and a 308. I also have a few M1A's and Fals. I think the 30p could be used on all of these rifles?

So if the 30p is sealed, I can only clean it by soaking in hydrogen peroxide mixed with vinegar? Or soapy water? Easy enough. Do suppressors every "wear out"? If so, how many shots can a typical can take before it gets "loud" </div></div>

Why would you want to use a Ti precision rifle can on a M1A or FAL? That is not what this type of suppressor was intended for. I would get something like a AAC 762-SD-N6 for those type of rifles.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jig Stick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why would I want to step up to the 338 sized can for use on a 300winmag? My bolt rifles include a few 300winmags, a 30.06, a 6.5x47, a 270, and a 308. I also have a few M1A's and Fals. I think the 30p could be used on all of these rifles?</div></div>

If you never plan on having anything larger than 300WM's in your safe, I would stick with the 30P-1 over a 338P-1 due to less weight, smaller size and lower cost.

Like KYS338 said above, the 30P-1 is not really ideal for the M1A's/FAL's unless you use a pretty low rate of fire. There are better cans out there for the semi's, due to the amount of heat generated by higher rates of fire.
 
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I was unaware that a different suppressor would be needed for the semiauto rifles. Im new to this whole thing and trying to learn as much as I can reading online. I rarely shoot the M1A's. And when i do, I usually shoot 3 shots at a time and then wait a while before shooting again. I primarily want the 30p for my 300wm bolt guns, but if it will work on my 3006, 270, and 6.5x47 then its an added bonus.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m14er</div><div class="ubbcode-body">30p-1 might have some shift. The question you need to ask yourself is will I ever
want to shoot without it. I can answer that-NO. Accuracy should improve especially
on a 300 wm. A lot of folks on here would probably recommend you step up to the 338 TBAC can for your 300. I can't speak to that.

<span style="color: #CC6600">TBAC cans are sealed you won't be cleaning anything on the inside.</span> </div></div>

Slow Down..... <span style="color: #CC6600">you can easily clean it with "the dip" or just really hot soapy water for about 12 hours.</span> These precision cans dont need to be taken apart to be cleaned... </div></div>

OK. good info.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

I have a 30P-1 and it works extremely well on my 260, 223 bolt gun, 300 BLK and 308. I am planning on adding a 300WM to my collection sooner than later and it will work well on those too. I have been present when they have been used on 300WM and 300WSM bolt guns and I was impressed to say the least, with the sound and recoil reduction. It will truely work very well on anything 300WM and smaller in a bolt platform or subs in a semi auto.

Its not that you cannot use it on the supersonic semi autos, just that since it is made of Ti it will not stand up to the high heat loads as well as a can made of SS/Inconel/etc. At least that's what my research has shown.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

Let me see if I can help to clarify some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Would a 300winmag rated suppressor do anything for my 6.5x47</div></div>
The .300WM "rating" on a .30 cal suppressor is there mainly for durability: will the suppressor "stand up to" the blast of the larger cartridge. In our 30P-1/30BA, they are very strong and will easily "withstand" even .300 RUM. Then there is the question of what the suppressor can effectively suppress. The 338P-1/338BA is larger to accommodate the additional volume of gas of the .338 cartridges such as .338 Lapua, Norma, RUM, etc. My rule of thumb for the 30P-1/30BA is that if you are shooting an up to .30 cal cartridge with no more than about 80 grains of powder, go with the 30P-1 or 30BA. It is cheaper and smaller and lighter than our .338 suppressors and will be a better "fit" to your smaller caliber rifles than the .338 cans.

If you wanted to shoot a lot of .300 RUM or something else with a lot of powder, our .338 suppressors will suppress better because you're burning a similar amount of it to the .338's.

It makes sense to economize how many suppressors we have to cover the rifles we shoot. I typically recommend the "90% rule", that is, optimize the suppressor you buy for how it will be used 90% of the time. If you'll only rarely (the "10%" of the time) use it on something else, you can take some compromises on that application. It's the 90% of the time you want it to be the best fit. What does this mean? For example, if you shoot 6.5mm and .308 almost all the time in practice and competition, but have a .300 RUM for hunting, then get the 30P-1 or 30BA. If you shoot a lot of .338 and .300WM, it makes sense to use the .338 can on both, and then maybe getting a .30cal suppressor for your 6.5's, etc.

To answer your question: If you shot your 6.5x47 with a .338 can, it'll be big but sound really good.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I am most concerned about POI shift over db reduction. My 300wm is a tack driver and I would hate to lose accuracy when shooting with the can on.</div></div>
The whole point of the 30P-1 and 30BA, and our product line in general, is to maintain accuracy and repeatability. That means that when the suppressor is screwed on, the groups should stay the same size or get smaller and the POI will be the same every time (to the limit of your rifle and loads obviously). Accuracy (group size) is different from POI. POI shift suppressor off to on is mainly a function of suppressor weight, barrel stiffness, and any harmonics that the rifle has during the shot and how adding mass to the muzzle changes the barrel position during the shot.

In most cases, our cans have about 3 clicks or less POI change from unsuppressed to suppressed. Many guys have 0, many have 1 or 2, maybe 3. A few have more than that. In some gas guns where a lot more stuff is moving, the POI shift is sometimes "up" instead of "down", due to the dynamics of the rifle. If you need to shoot without the suppressor, just check your logbook for the "off" vs. "on" correction and apply that to your data. For example, when I shot an F-class match some time ago, I just subtracted 3 clicks from my data and went from there. Since it's a "zero shift", you just subtract (add) a constant from all your elevation data values.

Cleaning is not really required on centerfire suppressors. If you want to clean it, you can use an ultrasonic cleaner or peroxide to dissolve the carbon. We also offer a free cleaning at our shop once a year if you cover the shipping. But to put it in perspective, we almost never clean our own suppressors.. I haven't ever cleaned my own 30P-1.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why would I want to step up to the 338 sized can for use on a 300winmag? My bolt rifles include a few 300winmags, a 30.06, a 6.5x47, a 270, and a 308. </div></div>
In your application, I would definitely recommend the 30P-1 or 30BA. There's no need to step up to the .338 can for .300WM and the .30 cal can will be a better fit for those rifles.

As for our titanium suppressors on semi-auto-- there is no problem with it. Just keep the temperatures under control. If you keep the suppressor under 800 degrees F you'll be fine. Just remember that this was designed as a light weight precision suppressor, not something to take mag dump after mag dump. We have a lot of guys shooting the 30BA and 30P-1 on gas guns like the OBR, AR-10, but they are rifles built for accuracy and not volume of fire. My general rule is that if making hits is more important than volume of fire then our Ti cans will be fine. Just watch the temp. If you have a magnified optic on there, you'll almost certainly have your sight picture obscured by mirage before you get to this point.

To contrast, our "sporting/precision" 223P-1 weighs about 15 ounces. The full-auto rated one, the one you can shoot on a 7" F/A M16 all day (223A) is made of inconel and steel and weighs 23 ounces.

hope this helps...

Zak
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

Zak

My go to loads for my winmags are 71g of R22 and 71.5g of H4831SC. I sometimes push it a little higher too (if I use H1000). I typically shoot between 180-210g pills at or around 2800-2950fps. You mentioned keeping the loads under 70g of powder. Do you think I will have an issue?

Now my 6.5x47 is shooting smaller pills and obviously less powder, but it does shoot pretty fast (over 3000fps if I push the powder charge). Can the 30p withstand the pressure generated by this as well? Im assuming if it can take the 300winmg, it should be able to take the pressure generated by the 6.5x47 shooting over 3000fps
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

That was a typo-- should have been "more than about 80 grains". And it's not like 80 is OK and 80.5 is not OK. It's a matter of degree and 80 is about the switchover point.

So that puts basically all .300WM loads in the rule of thumb for the .30 cal suppressors.

My 7mm RM load is 70 grains and it works great.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Now my 6.5x47 is shooting smaller pills and obviously less powder, but it does shoot pretty fast (over 3000fps if I push the powder charge). Can the 30p withstand the pressure generated by this as well? Im assuming if it can take the 300winmg, it should be able to take the pressure generated by the 6.5x47 shooting over 3000fps</div></div>
Not an issue. In 7mm we're shooting 162's at 3100+ fps and it works great. You could launch a 155 Scenar in .300 WM at some crazy velocity (over 3300?) and it's not going to harm the suppressor at all, unless your bullet blows up inside.
 
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In the military I never thought once about what manufacture or model of can I used. I never thought once about cleaning them either. Purchasing them for myself, I do. I shoot a 300wm and will only shoot this caliber suppressed. I use TBAC's 30p-1. I shoot without ear protection and I am able to shoot all day because of the reduction in recoil this can offers paired with this caliber. I am sure it is even more enjoyable when used with a smaller non magnum caliber rifle. Buy a 30p-1.

 
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jig Stick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there a particular barrel contour needed to use a 30P?
</div></div>

No. just enough for the suppressor to shoulder up on.
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

IIRC your barrel needs to be at least .700" at the shoulder (back side of the threads). If you go to the forums on TBAC's website, the info is there.
 
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Ive had a AWC Thundertrap for a long time and it sounds great on my 300. Its made of stainless steel but its very heavy compared to the Ti cans and at its price point you could get something a little more modern with Ti construction. Don't get me wrong its a great can though and Ill have it forever. I did also just get a 338BA but it hasn't cleared the ATF yet.
 
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I just ponied up for a Thunderbeast 30BA. I was looking for the AAC MK13, but after more review and "supply & demand" and pricing I went TBeast.

I hope I like mine as well as everyone else here. Thanks for the info you quiet types.

PB
 
Re: 300wm Suppressor

One more detail here to help you think about jumping in: You won't need vinegar and hydro peroxide to clean a rifle can. Not being able to disassemble the can for a high powered rifle is not a disadvantage. They don't normally need cleaning and the vinegar/peroxide mix is specifically used to remove lead fouling from .22LR cans. If you're shooting .22LR through a high power can you're making a mistake. Buy a dedicated can for the .22. It will be much lighter and handier and you won't have to worry about cleaning the rifle can. Since you don't need to worry about cleaning you can choose more wisely from the ti, stainless or steel cans that are available.
Depending on the cal you shoot you may not have to worry a lot about heat though in a semi auto its something to think about. Firing 5rds of .338 lapua mag through the suppressor I built for this round will heat it up enough to burn off any oil on the can. After 50rds fired as fast as loaded mags could be handed to me we reached about 800 degrees F according to the color of the can and a handy infra-red thermometer. The same can on a .308 bolt gun took 40 rapid fire rounds just to smoke the oil. A 100rd full auto mag dump from an AR15 made it to 700 deg F. The can has enough surface area to dissipate the heat fairly well. Some of the smaller cans don't. Titanium doesn't transfer heat well so it will take fewer rounds to get the same temps. All of these materials have a limit to their strength and the higher the temps the lower the limit. Gas pressures and temps from the rifles are fairly high and the shorter the barrel the higher the pressure. Have a look at this one....
http://www.dtic.mil/ndia/2010armament/WednesdayCumberlandPhilipDater.pdf
What this means to you the owner/shooter is don't overheat the can and then keep hammering on it. Keep the temps down and you can shoot larger capacity cased ammo. Let the temps get up there and even the little stuff could eventually damage the can. Remember too that your barrel is building heat just like the can and higher temps mean shorter life.

Frank