What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

[Lockdown1243]

As some of you know, I run a brass processing and once fired brass service. So far, I have done only .223 brass but I am about 150,000 pieces in to it and wanted to give my impressions of the Dillon 1050 and some quick money saving tips for my fellow loaders.

1) For about the first 50k pieces of brass, I was using Dillon's universal de-capping die. In 50k pieces I easily broke 8-10 de-capping pins. At almost $5 apiece+shipping, this can become extremely expensive.

Save a ton of money and buy yourself a Lee (or other comparable) de-capping die. I personally like the Lee because 100k pieces later, I've only broken one pin and it was completely my fault. As long as you set the tension of the retaining nut correctly, you won't have any problems.

2) For about the first 10k pieces, I used Hornady One Shot as my case lube of choice. Granted I only had one stuck case, but sizing was wearing my arm out.

I know it's been said a million times, but the Rubbing Alcohol and Lanolin Route is the easy (and economical) way to go. I use one 2 oz tube of lanolin to 16 oz of 99% pure Rubbing Alcohol which I have my local pharmacy special order.

3) Just like any other mechanical device, your 1050 will only run as good as you maintain it. After every 10k pieces Dillon recommends a cleaning. I easily have been able to push this to 25k+ with keeping an airhose by my side and blowing off the machine regulary while processing.

4) Different kinds of brass size differently and you need to adjust the sizing die accordingly. Some brass (especially WCC and LC) does not size as easily as other brass such as R-P or PMC brass. If you size mixed headstamps you are going to get mixed headspacing. I have noticed deviations as much as +/- .008 when sizing brass that is mixed headstamp. I don't have a scientific explanation, my only thoughts are the different compositions between the different types of brass is what causes the deviation. If you want consistent headspacing USE THE SAME HEAD STAMP of brass.

I will add more to this as I have time. Thanks for reading!

 

[pmclaine]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

Thank you. I'm 10K into mine between 3 calibers. What you have learned is helpful.

 

[cwshooter]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

Great info!
Any reason denatured alcohol wouldn't work?
CW

 

[Lockdown1243]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

It seems the more pure the alcohol, the better it mixes with the lanolin and lubricates the brass. I was truly amazed at what a difference in heavily lubing the brass with One Shot vs. Alcohol/Lanolin mixed made as far as the ease of processing and consistency with sizing.

 

[bricktop]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

I get this as an electronics and painting degreaser. Any impurities tend to leave a residue which will hinder paint adhesion; this stuff works well and is very pure. Larger quantities at mouser too. Actually a bit cheaper than McMaster-Carr in this case (although McMaster's shipping is usually cheap).

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/824-1L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvcAs5GUBtMdYUqbk2mqLFq

 

[Tims]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

Could you tell me more about the rubbing alcohol and lanolin. Is it better than One shot? Do you have to wipe it off the cases or dose it evaporate? How do you apply it? Spray it on or wipe it on?

 

[pmclaine]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

For rifle I use the Dillon lube which is alhohol and lanolin. Cheaper if you make your own rather than order it from AZ.

I put the brass in a box, spray it, and let it sit for a few minutes to allow the alchohol carrier to flash off. Havent had any issues with over/under lubing. I still run the brass through corn cob after processing for clean up.

For pistol I use One Shot.

 

[Lockdown1243]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tim1071</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Could you tell me more about the rubbing alcohol and lanolin. Is it better than One shot? Do you have to wipe it off the cases or dose it evaporate? How do you apply it? Spray it on or wipe it on? </div></div>

It is far better than One Shot for rifle casings. You do need to tumble the brass for about 30-45 minutes after you are done in corn cob/walnut media when you are done. You spray it on using a spray bottle. I use an old Windex bottle.

Also, you need to be sure the lanolin is Hydrous Lanolin. It comes in a liquid and lotion form. We have had good results with both, but are currently using the lotion form. To mix it is very simple.

1) Heat water in a large pot. It does not need to be boiling, just fairly hot.

2) Pour alcohol into spray bottle. With 99% pure rubbing alcohol, be extremely careful not to get any in your eyes and be sure you are in a well ventilated area.

3) Depending on which type of lanolin you have, pour or squeeze it into the spray bottle.

4) TURN OFF THE HEAT SOURCE WHICH IS HEATING THE WATER. 99% alcohol+open flame=shitty day.

5) Place the spray bottle containing the alcohol/lanolin mixture into the pot of water and let it sit for about 10 minutes or so. This causes the lanolin to thin out and begin to mix with the alcohol.

6) After you are sure the spray bottle is sealed, shake the bottle vigorously to mix it completely.

7) Lube away!

My cost for making approximately 72 ounces of case lube is around $25-30 depending on the day. This is not getting at dealer cost either. When you figure 5.5 oz of One Shot at between $6.99-$8.99+shipping you are paying well over $1 per ounce of lube which in my opinion isn't nearly as effective as the alcohol/lanolin mixture which costs around $.34 per ounce.

To lube the cases, I have a medium sized plastic bin with a lid that I put the cases in. I usually lube around 400-500 cases at a time. I spray the cases down with 2-3 squirts of the mixture, put the lid on the bin, and gently shake the bin to mix the cases.

Spray them down 2-3 more times and rinse and repeat. I usually only have to repeat the process 2-3 times total before the cases are lubed enough to process. You can let the cases sit for a minute or two to let some of the alcohol evaporate off of the cases if you wish. I usually just dump them straight into the case feeder and I have had 0 problems.

When you get done processing the cases and they sit prior to polishing them up the final time, you might notice they feel sticky or tacky. This is completely normal and the case lube will come right off and the brass will come to a brilliant shine once it is tumbled for the 30-45 minutes I spoke of.

I forgot to mention, I shake up the mixture every time prior to lubing, the alcohol and lanolin separates over time, but you only need to heat it the first time you are making it.

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lockdown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I forgot to mention, I shake up the mixture every time prior to lubing, the alcohol and lanolin separates over time, but you only need to heat it the first time you are making it.

</div></div>

I'm a tribologist which means I work with metals and lubes and whats funny is that you've unknowingly created a lube that is only one ingredient away from one of the best liquid lubes known to man. If you added a about an ounce of a specific family of reagents you'd have a great lube that wouldn't separate and if you swapped out the crappy alcohol you're using for Dodecan-1-ol and dried it (the hard part), you'd suddenly have a wet lube that has about the same coefficient of friction as Teflon.

 

[pmclaine]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

Man your girl friends must appreciate your knowledge.

 

[Lockdown1243]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pmclaine</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man your girl friends must appreciate your knowledge. </div></div>

+1

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pmclaine</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man your girl friends must appreciate your knowledge. </div></div>

LOL! I wish she appreciated it more often.

 

[handym3000]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

what is it that he would need to add in order to have a awesome lube?

i would like to know

another question:

what kind of degree do you need to do your job?
what kind of companies can you work for?

that sounds like a really cool job

 

[kraigWY]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

I do things a bit different: I use to have (late 70s early 80s) a reloading business.

I used the older Dillion RL 1000 I got in 1978, ser. # 0065. Its more of a comerical loader. More heavy duty then the 1050.

I wore out too many sizing dies, so I went to Hollywood Carbide dies for 223 & 308. You still have to lube the cases but dies last forever (I'm still using the Dillion and dies).

My tumbler is about 10X28 inches. It will hold about 2000 223 cases.

For lubing I took an empty 8# Win Powder can. I stuffed a piece of carpet in the can that compeltly lines the can. I use RCBS case lube by squirting a tad into the can on the carpet. Then add brass. I remove the tumbler from the rollers and set the can on, and tumble the brass in the can to lube it.

It completly lubes the cases, but not excessively.

The RL 1000 has a seperate stateion that swedges military crimps do I don't even worry about it.

After running a batch, I put the loaded round back into the tumbler a couple min. to remove the lube.

The slide bar type powder measure on the RL 1000 is quite a bit more accurage then the RCBS measure.

I use carbide dies for pistols and don't lube them. The RL1000 has plenty of stations so I always crimp at a seperat station then seating.

I've been using the RL 1000 for about 35 years, it works as good today as it did when I got it.

The problem is, with the existing powder measure '06 is about as large of cases I can reload on this machine.

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: handym3000</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what is it that he would need to add in order to have a awesome lube?

i would like to know

another question:

what kind of degree do you need to do your job?
what kind of companies can you work for?

that sounds like a really cool job </div></div>

I left that part out because it can be a pretty dangerous reagent to play with but it's a family of acids and a very common one at that. The hardest part is figuring out the ratios because if the ratios are off you'll end up with unreacted reagents that have to be removed from the finished product. You also need to have high purity reagents to begin with, impurities such as water (which is a common cutting agent) mean you have a lot more work in 'purifying' the finished product. Then you have to dry the finished product by doing things such as boiling off the water but you have to do so without damaging the finished product. This usually means you have to boil the mixture in a vacuum so the amount of vacuum to be applied is yet another factor you have to calculate.

To answer your other questions. All of the above is really within the realm of chemical engineering so if you just wanted to play with chemicals all day you'd do that in school but the reality of chemical engineering is pretty boring as a lot of it is just grinding out math (Calc/Diff-EQ/etc.) and running computer simulations. I did mechanical engineering and tossed in a ton of chemistry. The jobs you can do with in my field are endless. Any car/aircraft/oil/etc. companies but most people at this level tend to run their own consulting businesses because there's more money in it. The flip side is that I've got 10 years of school under my belt already and another two to go before I'm where I really want to be.

 

[milo 2.0]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

Binder, thanks for your life history. I was thinking a Tribologist was maybe a person with the Bureau of Indian Affairs.

What I want to know, is how did you get "high binder" as forum name.

I'm picturing a grade school child, standing there with his underwear pulled over his head after an encounter with a junior high student.
The wedgie of all wedgies, snuggie of all snuggies, the hash mark staring one in the face, a real "High Binder".

Thanks, I need to know.

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: milo-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
What I want to know, is how did you get "high binder" as forum name.

Thanks, I need to know. </div></div>

I typed it into the 'Display Name' box just like you did when you selected 'milo-2' as your Display Name. LOL

It's actually a hybrid of chemical terms in my specific area of interest within the chemical world.

 

[milo 2.0]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

Thanks HB,
Now I know.
Why did you keep out the colorful, good shit when you qouted me?

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: milo-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks HB,
Now I know.
Why did you keep out the colorful, good shit when you qouted me? </div></div>

Bad memories. LOL

 

[clmayfield]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All of the above is really within the realm of chemical engineering so if you just wanted to play with chemicals all day you'd do that in school but the reality of chemical engineering is pretty boring as a lot of it is just grinding out math (Calc/Diff-EQ/etc.) and running computer simulations.</div></div>

As an ex-chemical engineer, I would have to say that you are about half right. You don't use Calculus and Diff Eq a lot in modern chemical engineering. That is used to get to the equations that are used on a regular basis.

You are right on simulations. You do a lot of those and do a lot of mass and energy balances, which is simple algebra. But most of developing mixtures, etc., is a chemist's job. Chem E's design the processes used to create chemicals in an economically efficient way. Or they do hydraulic calculations to size pumps and lines, which is the most boring work known to man, apart from accounting.

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All of the above is really within the realm of chemical engineering so if you just wanted to play with chemicals all day you'd do that in school but the reality of chemical engineering is pretty boring as a lot of it is just grinding out math (Calc/Diff-EQ/etc.) and running computer simulations.</div></div>

As an ex-chemical engineer, I would have to say that you are about half right. You don't use Calculus and Diff Eq a lot in modern chemical engineering. That is used to get to the equations that are used on a regular basis.
</div></div>

Calc/diff-EQ is all you do as a Tribologist which I should have been more clear about. Tribology is the science of wear and friction (surface interactions) so you can see where calc comes in to play in terms of friction and boundary layers.

Why are you an EX-engineer?

 

[clmayfield]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

They don't pay engineers what they should.

 

[Graham]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They don't pay engineers what they should. </div></div>Agreed: We overpaid the one who made the blueprints that showed gravity makes water run uphill.

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They don't pay engineers what they should. </div></div>

^This is why I just kept going to school.

 

[KelsonAK]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

Friend of mine that is a CE and a pilot says regardless of the discipline, gravity always wins.

 

[Graham]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KelsonAK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Friend of mine that is a CE and a pilot says regardless of the discipline, gravity always wins.</div></div>I learned that while rock climbing in college.

 

[DroidSniper]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pmclaine</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man your girl friends must appreciate your knowledge. </div></div>

Nice!

 

[DroidSniper]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: High Binder</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They don't pay engineers what they should. </div></div>

^This is why I just kept going to school. </div></div>

We need you over in the HBN thread.

 

[DroidSniper]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

To the OP

How much did you spend on your Dillon? I am thinking of picking one up to load .223 and 9mm. I would probably go with the 550 as I don't load in high volume like you do.

How hard would it be to say switch between .223 and 9mm? Money is tight so I want to do it right the first time know what I mean?

 

[Lockdown1243]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Droid</div><div class="ubbcode-body">To the OP

How much did you spend on your Dillon? I am thinking of picking one up to load .223 and 9mm. I would probably go with the 550 as I don't load in high volume like you do.

How hard would it be to say switch between .223 and 9mm? Money is tight so I want to do it right the first time know what I mean? </div></div>

My whole setup with the trimmer, dies etc was right around 2k. Dillon will tell you a caliber change takes around 5 minutes. If you have a dedicated toolhead for each caliber, this might be true (and very expensive) since 1050 toolheads run right at $200 each.

If you were using the same toolhead and switching dies, I think 30 minutes is a pretty accurate time frame allowing for adjustments and tuning of the dies. I did order a 2nd one for my machine so I could have a dedicated .308 processing and .223 processing toolhead to save on time when switching between calibers for customers.

 

[leadbullet]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

I have loaded over 650,000 rounds of various caliber in my now 12 year old 1050 (not a super 1050)and you are 100% correct about everything so far.

broke one primer plunger spring and got 3 free ones, 2 years ago

broke the big shellplate assist spring and got charged 11 bucks for it, last year.

keep the grease fitting full and the whole machine relatively clean and it will last a long long time, and make you enough profits to pay bills and shoot for free.

cheers.

 

[Lockdown1243]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

The only issue I have had is the retention screw for the case feed assembly stripped the threading out of the case feeder and I had to zip tie it to keep it up high enough to not cause problems and the primer pickup tube they sent with the machine was defective. Dillon has backed up their warranty every time.

 

[High Binder]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

I have the 650 and the most helpful thing I've found is to keep a can of air handy. You can blast away any powder/primer/etc. that spills. Keeping these things clean is a must.

 

[pmclaine]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Droid</div><div class="ubbcode-body">To the OP

How much did you spend on your Dillon? I am thinking of picking one up to load .223 and 9mm. I would probably go with the 550 as I don't load in high volume like you do.

How hard would it be to say switch between .223 and 9mm? Money is tight so I want to do it right the first time know what I mean? </div></div>

Not the OP, hope you dont mind me throwing my opinion out there.

S1050 caliber changes are not to be feared. Research on the net may lead you to think its a pain. I actually like doing them because it gives me a good chance to maintain the machine.

The thing to consider is to load up a huge amount of ammo between caliber changes.

To do quick changes you will need a tool head for each process - one tool head for pistol, two tool heads or rifle. This gets expensive but may be worthwhile depending on how much you like to mess with dies. Dillon dies dont come with clamping lock rings so plan on buying some if you plan to share a tool head.

The make or break for me on what machine to choose was based on my fear of caliber changes. When I was considering reloading for three calibers - .40 S&W, .45 ACP and 30-06- I was firmly in the 650 XL camp. I considered this as being more cost effective and easier to run.

My job switched to .45 ACP and I rationalized I would need fewer tool heads and I could learn to change between the two remaining calibers - especially because they use the same shell plate.

Really the little voice in my head wanted the S1050 anyway and losing a caliber pushed me in that direction. Surrendering to my desires has been great. I'm totally happy with my S1050 and really appreciate the on board swage.

I'm now prepping to buy tool heads for .308 and that will have me loading 4 calibers - .45 ACP, .38 Special, 30-06, .308.

 

[Lockdown1243]

Re: What I've Learned About the Dillon 1050 150k In.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pmclaine</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Droid</div><div class="ubbcode-body">To the OP

How much did you spend on your Dillon? I am thinking of picking one up to load .223 and 9mm. I would probably go with the 550 as I don't load in high volume like you do.

How hard would it be to say switch between .223 and 9mm? Money is tight so I want to do it right the first time know what I mean? </div></div>

Not the OP, hope you dont mind me throwing my opinion out there.


S1050 caliber changes are not to be feared. Research on the net may lead you to think its a pain. I actually like doing them because it gives me a good chance to maintain the machine.

The thing to consider is to load up a huge amount of ammo between caliber changes.

To do quick changes you will need a tool head for each process - one tool head for pistol, two tool heads or rifle. This gets expensive but may be worthwhile depending on how much you like to mess with dies. Dillon dies dont come with clamping lock rings so plan on buying some if you plan to share a tool head.

The make or break for me on what machine to choose was based on my fear of caliber changes. When I was considering reloading for three calibers - .40 S&W, .45 ACP and 30-06- I was firmly in the 650 XL camp. I considered this as being more cost effective and easier to run.

My job switched to .45 ACP and I rationalized I would need fewer tool heads and I could learn to change between the two remaining calibers - especially because they use the same shell plate.

Really the little voice in my head wanted the S1050 anyway and losing a caliber pushed me in that direction. Surrendering to my desires has been great. I'm totally happy with my S1050 and really appreciate the on board swage.

I'm now prepping to buy tool heads for .308 and that will have me loading 4 calibers - .45 ACP, .38 Special, 30-06, .308. </div></div>

I always appreciate input from the community. It's how we all learn.