I am looking to upgrade some of my reloading components and need a little help. I currently have an old set of Lee dies that I was given when I bought my rock chucker press used. I want to get a set of Redding .308 dies but am not sure which ones to get. I have been looking online and am just a little confused as to which ones to get. What exactly are the S type dies? Is there any advantage to a just using a neck die vs a full length die? Is the full length 2 die set good enough or would you recommend a different set or combination of dies? Sorry for the stupid questions and thanks in advance for any help received.
- Thread starter Maelstrom
- Start date
Re: Die Question
The Type S dies use interchangeable bushings, need .002 neck tension, measure a loaded round and subtract .002, get the FL Type S die and Reddings Competition Seating die, I also recommend Reddings Carbide Floating expander, with the correct bushing installed it will barely touch on the way out and correct any dings, and because its not pulling hard on its way out Concentricity is maintained or is not effected as much.
The Type S dies use interchangeable bushings, need .002 neck tension, measure a loaded round and subtract .002, get the FL Type S die and Reddings Competition Seating die, I also recommend Reddings Carbide Floating expander, with the correct bushing installed it will barely touch on the way out and correct any dings, and because its not pulling hard on its way out Concentricity is maintained or is not effected as much.
Re: Die Question
Dittos on Cobra's comments, good advice across the board. Get the F/L die and forget about the N/S version. It'll save you some troubles down the road, I guarantee that.
Redding will be a major step up for you here, as would Forster's bushing dies. Both are good, and the same advantages can be had from each. Might also add some sort of case gage, just to make sure you're not setting the shoulders back too far, which should eliminate any worries about case life from F/L sizing.
Dittos on Cobra's comments, good advice across the board. Get the F/L die and forget about the N/S version. It'll save you some troubles down the road, I guarantee that.
Redding will be a major step up for you here, as would Forster's bushing dies. Both are good, and the same advantages can be had from each. Might also add some sort of case gage, just to make sure you're not setting the shoulders back too far, which should eliminate any worries about case life from F/L sizing.
Re: Die Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maelstrom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am looking to upgrade some of my reloading components and need a little help. I currently have an old set of Lee dies that I was given when I bought my rock chucker press used. I want to get a set of Redding .308 dies but am not sure which ones to get. I have been looking online and am just a little confused as to which ones to get. What exactly are the S type dies? Is there any advantage to a just using a neck die vs a full length die? Is the full length 2 die set good enough or would you recommend a different set or combination of dies? Sorry for the stupid questions and thanks in advance for any help received. </div></div>
My usual advice is that for the best finished ammunition buy Redding bushing neck dies. Which set is best for you as you have discovered can vary.
This advice is for unturned case necks only.
IMO while bushing neck sizing IMO is the way to go I like the better operational consistency and reliability of using cleaned and fully sized brass. If you like this idea I suggest using a Redding Type S Full Neck Bushing Die set. This die set comes with 2-dies, a decap/bushing/full length sizing die and Competition micrometer bullet seating die.
On the other hand you are of the opinion you only need to full length size every second or third reloading thinking you are going to improve brass life (you won't) or that your cases will better fit your chamber (they won't) then the 3-die Redding Type S Match Bushing Neck Die set with its' separate body sizing die and Competition seating die is for you. If you like the most flexible and easily adjusted die set then the Redding Competition Bushing Neck Die set may be for you. The Competition Die set is like the 3-die Redding Type S Match Bushing Die set but with the addition of micrometer adjustment to the bushing die. This is a great feature on the Comeptition seating die but completely unnecessary IMO for adjusting a neck bushing.
If you are a precision shooter looking to assemble ammunition as good or better than the best factory match ammunition and you are limited to a single stage press my advice for dies and measurement tools is to consider buying an inexpensive second press (Lee has a small press under $30) to allow the use of a Redding Instant Comparator. The die set to buy would be Redding's Type S Match Full Bushing Full Die Set with a small selection of Redding TiNi coated bushings. This core setup minimizes the number of die changes needed to load very good ammunition and allow the fast precise measurements required for perfect adjustment of the sizing and seating dies using the Redding Instant Comparator in the second press.
IMHO 90% of the problems people are having with reloading (after taking out lack understanding reloading basics) are due to a lack of understanding why, what and how to measure. The Redding Instant Comparator solves these measurement problems and gives very fast very accurate very repeatable feedback on how well your dies are set.
If you have multiple (three or more) single stage presses on your bench and can leave them loaded with various dies I would suggest a press dedicated to the Redding Instant Comparator, and buying Redding Type S Match Bushing Full die set and a single Redding Type S Bushing Neck Die. This allows you to do a 2-step neck size for perfectly consistent bushing neck sizing and a full length case sizing. You also would have Redding's Competition micrometer bullet seating die the best non-arbor press sliding sleeve bullet seater. The Competition seater would get swapped out with the press used for the Type S neck bushing die which is non-critical for height.
HTH!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maelstrom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am looking to upgrade some of my reloading components and need a little help. I currently have an old set of Lee dies that I was given when I bought my rock chucker press used. I want to get a set of Redding .308 dies but am not sure which ones to get. I have been looking online and am just a little confused as to which ones to get. What exactly are the S type dies? Is there any advantage to a just using a neck die vs a full length die? Is the full length 2 die set good enough or would you recommend a different set or combination of dies? Sorry for the stupid questions and thanks in advance for any help received. </div></div>
My usual advice is that for the best finished ammunition buy Redding bushing neck dies. Which set is best for you as you have discovered can vary.
This advice is for unturned case necks only.
IMO while bushing neck sizing IMO is the way to go I like the better operational consistency and reliability of using cleaned and fully sized brass. If you like this idea I suggest using a Redding Type S Full Neck Bushing Die set. This die set comes with 2-dies, a decap/bushing/full length sizing die and Competition micrometer bullet seating die.
On the other hand you are of the opinion you only need to full length size every second or third reloading thinking you are going to improve brass life (you won't) or that your cases will better fit your chamber (they won't) then the 3-die Redding Type S Match Bushing Neck Die set with its' separate body sizing die and Competition seating die is for you. If you like the most flexible and easily adjusted die set then the Redding Competition Bushing Neck Die set may be for you. The Competition Die set is like the 3-die Redding Type S Match Bushing Die set but with the addition of micrometer adjustment to the bushing die. This is a great feature on the Comeptition seating die but completely unnecessary IMO for adjusting a neck bushing.
If you are a precision shooter looking to assemble ammunition as good or better than the best factory match ammunition and you are limited to a single stage press my advice for dies and measurement tools is to consider buying an inexpensive second press (Lee has a small press under $30) to allow the use of a Redding Instant Comparator. The die set to buy would be Redding's Type S Match Full Bushing Full Die Set with a small selection of Redding TiNi coated bushings. This core setup minimizes the number of die changes needed to load very good ammunition and allow the fast precise measurements required for perfect adjustment of the sizing and seating dies using the Redding Instant Comparator in the second press.
IMHO 90% of the problems people are having with reloading (after taking out lack understanding reloading basics) are due to a lack of understanding why, what and how to measure. The Redding Instant Comparator solves these measurement problems and gives very fast very accurate very repeatable feedback on how well your dies are set.
If you have multiple (three or more) single stage presses on your bench and can leave them loaded with various dies I would suggest a press dedicated to the Redding Instant Comparator, and buying Redding Type S Match Bushing Full die set and a single Redding Type S Bushing Neck Die. This allows you to do a 2-step neck size for perfectly consistent bushing neck sizing and a full length case sizing. You also would have Redding's Competition micrometer bullet seating die the best non-arbor press sliding sleeve bullet seater. The Competition seater would get swapped out with the press used for the Type S neck bushing die which is non-critical for height.
HTH!
Re: Die Question
If you are reloading for a Bolt action Redding Bushing S dies are the way to go.
If you are realoading for an Semi Auto then I would recommend FL sizing brass after each firing. I would recommend the Forster National Match or the Redding National Match dies.
If you are reloading for a Bolt action Redding Bushing S dies are the way to go.
If you are realoading for an Semi Auto then I would recommend FL sizing brass after each firing. I would recommend the Forster National Match or the Redding National Match dies.
Re: Die Question
I am reloading for a Rem 700 that was rebarreled by GAP this past spring. Having a the new barrel I want to get the most out of it. I am shooting out to 600 at steel and paper plus deer out to 200.
I am reloading for a Rem 700 that was rebarreled by GAP this past spring. Having a the new barrel I want to get the most out of it. I am shooting out to 600 at steel and paper plus deer out to 200.
Re: Die Question
Here is what I use for precision bolt and semi-auto.
Bolt:
FL Size on initial use.
Use Lee collet die on fired brass
Seat
Shoot
If they get tight, I FL size again.
Anneal after 3-4 firings
Semi:
FL size every time
Collet
Seat
Light crimp
Shoot
Here is what I use for precision bolt and semi-auto.
Bolt:
FL Size on initial use.
Use Lee collet die on fired brass
Seat
Shoot
If they get tight, I FL size again.
Anneal after 3-4 firings
Semi:
FL size every time
Collet
Seat
Light crimp
Shoot
Re: Die Question
F/L sizer with S type neck bushing. I found that 0.002" neck tension wasn't necessarily the best, as verified by group size and chrono ES at 400 yds. I experimented with 0.001"-0.004". 0.003" worked best for 178s and 0.004" worked best for 168s. But, if you only want to buy one bushing, 0.002" should work fine.
F/L sizer with S type neck bushing. I found that 0.002" neck tension wasn't necessarily the best, as verified by group size and chrono ES at 400 yds. I experimented with 0.001"-0.004". 0.003" worked best for 178s and 0.004" worked best for 168s. But, if you only want to buy one bushing, 0.002" should work fine.
Re: Die Question
Seems like an S type neck die type S FL die and a seating die are what is recommended. Is there a hide vendor that you all recommend to purchase the dies from? Also is there a kit that I can buy to get all three or do I need to purchase each one separately?
Seems like an S type neck die type S FL die and a seating die are what is recommended. Is there a hide vendor that you all recommend to purchase the dies from? Also is there a kit that I can buy to get all three or do I need to purchase each one separately?
Re: Die Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maelstrom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Seems like an S type neck die type S FL die and a seating die are what is recommended. Is there a hide vendor that you all recommend to purchase the dies from? Also is there a kit that I can buy to get all three or do I need to purchase each one separately? </div></div>
go Here!!!
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3661793#Post3661793
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maelstrom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Seems like an S type neck die type S FL die and a seating die are what is recommended. Is there a hide vendor that you all recommend to purchase the dies from? Also is there a kit that I can buy to get all three or do I need to purchase each one separately? </div></div>
go Here!!!
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3661793#Post3661793
Re: Die Question
Sinclair International is a great source for reloading equipment and there are several other as well. If you are just staring out keep it simple and invest in a good set of FL sizing dies either standard or Type S. I for one prefer Redding although I have other manufactures. I recommend that you invest in a good set of measuring tools since they will be useful as you progress as a reloader. This would include calipers, comparators, concentricity gauges, case gauges, etc. They are critical in setting up your dies and checking the uniformity of your loads.
Sinclair International is a great source for reloading equipment and there are several other as well. If you are just staring out keep it simple and invest in a good set of FL sizing dies either standard or Type S. I for one prefer Redding although I have other manufactures. I recommend that you invest in a good set of measuring tools since they will be useful as you progress as a reloader. This would include calipers, comparators, concentricity gauges, case gauges, etc. They are critical in setting up your dies and checking the uniformity of your loads.
Re: Die Question
What are you current dies not doing well enough?
More costly and complex dies won't automatically get you anything at all. I would suggest you first learn as much about case selection and preperation as you can as well as load development techniques and how to get the best possible results with what you have before dropping the money for dies you don't even understand. It's not easy - or fast - to gain the reloading skills to exceed what can be done with standard dies; they're all pretty good you know.
Good luck!
What are you current dies not doing well enough?
More costly and complex dies won't automatically get you anything at all. I would suggest you first learn as much about case selection and preperation as you can as well as load development techniques and how to get the best possible results with what you have before dropping the money for dies you don't even understand. It's not easy - or fast - to gain the reloading skills to exceed what can be done with standard dies; they're all pretty good you know.
Good luck!
Re: Die Question
The Lee dies work but having just put a new barrel on the rifle as well as a new stock I was looking to get new dies that might be a little more precise so I can get the most out of the barrel (shooter error not withstanding).
The Lee dies work but having just put a new barrel on the rifle as well as a new stock I was looking to get new dies that might be a little more precise so I can get the most out of the barrel (shooter error not withstanding).
Re: Die Question
All dies vary within a standard tolerance range. IF you're lucky enough to have an excellant standard set and you buy a less than perfect premium set you may actually lose.
Buying and hoping for improvement isn't a good plan. I'd suggest you first get a good concentricity gage like Sinclair's and a decent cartridge 'headspace' gauge set like Hornady's for setting up your dies. Then learn how to get the best possible results with what you have. After that if you aren't satisfied, you'll know why and know what you will be looking for with a different die set.
All dies vary within a standard tolerance range. IF you're lucky enough to have an excellant standard set and you buy a less than perfect premium set you may actually lose.
Buying and hoping for improvement isn't a good plan. I'd suggest you first get a good concentricity gage like Sinclair's and a decent cartridge 'headspace' gauge set like Hornady's for setting up your dies. Then learn how to get the best possible results with what you have. After that if you aren't satisfied, you'll know why and know what you will be looking for with a different die set.
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