'I have read alot of things about it being dangerous to reload for a glock 40 S&W. But most of the things that I have read, has pertained mostly to the gen 3 and below. I was under the impression that they tightened things up a bit in the gen 4. Is it still dangerous and not advised to reload for the glock 22 gen 4?
- Thread starter timelinex
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ppl say dont shoot lead in poly barrel, but ppl do safely. ppl say dont reload high pressure rds in an unsupported chamber, but ppl do safely. ppl say BEWARE OF THE GLOCK BULGE, ooooo scary, JK. theres blanket statements buddy and all you can do is take it with a grain of salt.do it by the book til your comfortable enuff to push the envelope or change your spring to run reduced loads. take measurements, document it to wht works and wht doesnt. or run a lone wolf/storm lake/KKM barrel and just be done with the OEM barrel.
I've reloaded many many rounds for my Gen 3 G22. New brass, once fired brass, even evil bulged Glock brass all without any issues. Just use proven data and you'll be fine.
GREG
GREG
I reload for a Gen 3 Glock 23 (smaller version of the 22). No problems. I load plated, or jacketed bullets to avoid the lead. Work you loads up as you should with anything else. You will be fine.
Good information, I'm right around the corner from reloading for my G22 and G23.
' Work you loads up as you should with anything else. You will be fine. '
Just don't work up a .40 like you would for a rifle or even most pistols. You may never see any signs of excessive pressure before the one that blows the mag out the bottom.
I load Gen 3. I've heard they're fully supproted now, but thats' just hearsay.
Just don't work up a .40 like you would for a rifle or even most pistols. You may never see any signs of excessive pressure before the one that blows the mag out the bottom.
I load Gen 3. I've heard they're fully supproted now, but thats' just hearsay.
So.. If your not loading for hunting or defense reasons, is there a reason to load anything but a light load in a pistol? The <100fps really wont make that huge a difference at the ranges you shoot pistol. And even if you load it for hunting/defense, will that small difference really make a difference, at reasonable ranges?
Use the start charge and don’t go past half way up the data w/ range brass.
All you need is enough force to reliably function the slide / fully eject the brass.
Say start was 4gr and max was 5gr. I would load 1 ea at 4.0, 4.1, 4.2. Shoot them and see if it functions. Assume 4gr hung the brass in the slide and 4.1 and 4.2 cleared the brass, I would load several more of the 4.1 and 4.2; I may find that 4.1 doesn’t always work.
Be very careful with seating depth. It matters Much more in low volume / high pressure cartridges.
Forget all the sticky bolt, ejector swipe, … that you use in rifle cartridges. If you overload a .40, the first sign may be a blown up pistol.
Edit: Velocity doesn't matter unless you need to make major PF.
All you need is enough force to reliably function the slide / fully eject the brass.
Say start was 4gr and max was 5gr. I would load 1 ea at 4.0, 4.1, 4.2. Shoot them and see if it functions. Assume 4gr hung the brass in the slide and 4.1 and 4.2 cleared the brass, I would load several more of the 4.1 and 4.2; I may find that 4.1 doesn’t always work.
Be very careful with seating depth. It matters Much more in low volume / high pressure cartridges.
Forget all the sticky bolt, ejector swipe, … that you use in rifle cartridges. If you overload a .40, the first sign may be a blown up pistol.
Edit: Velocity doesn't matter unless you need to make major PF.
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