Gunsmithing Installing Daniel Defense 7.62 Lite Rail on Armalite .308

[Cbmax]

Hi All,

I will be picking up my new Armalite AR 10T later this week. I just received a Daniel Defense 7.62 lite rail in the mail today. I will also be receiving a Armalite upper receiver vice jaw clamp and a PRI Armalite barrel but wrench. I have heard that the factory Aramlite barrel nut can be very difficult to remove. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this procees go a little smoother. I will have a breaker bar. Do I need to heat the barrel nut? I really don't want to damage thus rife by making dumb mistakes!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

CB

 

[EXTREMEPREJUDICE]

I have used the exact same tools to do almost what you are planning to do. I used a different forearm but that won't make any difference. My factory forearm was the match fiberglass tube so I had to also replace the barrel nut. In any event, I did not have to heat the barrel nut to break it loose, a breaker bar worked just fine. My only recommendation is to make sure you have a high quality vise to hold the clamp because it is a hard plastic/composit and can easlily move when you apply force. Other than lining up the gas tube it is pretty much child's play.

 

[Cbmax]

Extreme,

What will I need to remove the factory tube from the Armalite AR 10? I am thinking a strap wrench will work. Any suggestions for removing the gas block? Do I need to remove the pins that hold the gas tube? Cam you tell me more about lining up the gas tube? Sorry for the newbie questions, but this is my first time attempting this work.

CB

 

[EXTREMEPREJUDICE]

Well, first is the "make sure rifle is unloaded" disclaimer. Remove the pins, and the lower, charging handle and bolt group. It this juncture I would place the upper receiver and barreled assembly in the vise, you could wait a couple steps later if you wish. No, you won't need a strap wrench (or at least I didn't.) After securing the upper, remove the flash hider. Next loosen the two screws on the gas block and take it off. You won't have to remove the gas tube from the block so don't drive out the pin. Take of the flange that held the rear of the fiberglass tube forearm, it should spin right off (guess you could use a strap wrench if necessary?) Remove the fiberglass forearm and then use your barrel nut wrench to loosen the barrel nut. The remaining steps are pretty much in reverse except it will depend on your new forearm hardware and you'll need a torque wrench when installing the new/or reinstalling the old barrel nut (depends on your forearm hardware.) When tightening your barrel nut, make certain you line up the slot for the gas tube (I use an old piece of tube, you can use a similar sized punch) so that the gas key doesn't bind, put in the carrier group to test. It's pretty simple................U TUBE probably has some vids on it if you get stuck. Or if you are in a jam PM me your phone number and I'll call.

 

[Cbmax]

Extreme,

That is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much! Just one last question. Do you recommend anti-seize compound or medium strength loc-Tite on the barrel nut? Anti-seize would seem to make more sense.

CB

 

[THE DOCTOR]

I usually use a small amount of anti sieze

 

[EXTREMEPREJUDICE]

Anti-seize as mentioned by the Doc or Moly Lube works also.