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Dillon 550b squib... how do I prevent this in the future?

ZLBubba

ZLBubba

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Yesterday I went to test my new batch of 45ACP ammo that I made in my Dillon 550b. On the third shot of the first mag, I had a squib. I didn't realize it until I disassembled the pistol and stay the 200gr slug stuck just at the beginning. Fortunately, I was able to just push the bullet out with a steel punch I keep in my kit.

My big issue is this: I've got a 550 and am thinking that I should either get a powder check system and install in on my third stage, seat the bullet on the 4th, and then crimp separately on my Co-Ax. I don't like the idea of not being able to count on every round going bang. Had I realized this significant difference between the 550b and the 650, I probably would have just gotten a 650. Coulda, woulda, shoulda. That doesn't help much now. The other alternative is that I rig up a little LED light on my press so that I can see directly into the case after the powder drops on the 2nd stage.

How are other people handling this and minimizing the risk of squib rounds?
 
Lucky. Glad nothing real $hitty happened. Non-progressive presses are prone to this. A good task light on the powder drop station helps along with visually checking every case after the drop.

Ultimately though, order the RCBS lock-out die soon. Like now :) Works NICE once it is set right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egs5GWG_Prc
 
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Other than really paying attention to detail, not sure. One thing you really don't want to happen is letting your powder hopper run out and have a case with just enough powder to push the bullet half way down your barrel. It'll get exciting, quick.

The reason I posted was to say, instead of a steel punch, get a piece of 3/8" wooden dowel to knock a bullet out, might save on the barrel. Ask how I know!
 
ZLBubba said:
Yesterday I went to test my new batch of 45ACP ammo that I made in my Dillon 550b. On the third shot of the first mag, I had a squib. I didn't realize it until I disassembled the pistol and stay the 200gr slug stuck just at the beginning. Fortunately, I was able to just push the bullet out with a steel punch I keep in my kit.

My big issue is this: I've got a 550 and am thinking that I should either get a powder check system and install in on my third stage, seat the bullet on the 4th, and then crimp separately on my Co-Ax. I don't like the idea of not being able to count on every round going bang. Had I realized this significant difference between the 550b and the 650, I probably would have just gotten a 650. Coulda, woulda, shoulda. That doesn't help much now. The other alternative is that I rig up a little LED light on my press so that I can see directly into the case after the powder drops on the 2nd stage.

How are other people handling this and minimizing the risk of squib rounds?
Click to expand...

I've had 3 duds over 18+ years reloading on a 550b. The first one that I'm owning, is failing to punch out a fired primer. It could have been a 'bad' primer, but I've never had one, so that was my first mistake. The second and third happened in the same 50 round session.

I hadn't loaded in a while and the press was sticking and the powder funnel was glitching. I had a couple of powder bridges in a row and was getting frustrated, since I was in a hurry to go shooting in the a.m..

Instead of stopping and lubing everything up and starting over, I pressed on! In the process of stopping, starting and stopping again, I failed to charge two 223 Rem cases and so there was just the primer.

Upon ignition, the bullets stayed seated, but things could have been pretty bad.

My point is is that the 550b works pretty and it's possible that you had to stop for something and restart. The non-indexing system can be great, but it can also allow one to 'lose track' of what step has been done to what case...leading to problems.

The solution is simple, if you must stop, check everything out before restarting.

Keep your measure polished, keep your powder funnels polished (inside and out) and keep you powder die polished and you should never have a squib load due to mechanical issues.

Chris
 
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This is exactly what I'm looking for. I'll also pick up a brass rod in case I get another squib. Man, I hope there aren't any more. Once that LED is set up, I'll visually inspect each round.
 
The nice thing about 45acp is you can visually see the powder easily and know if it is charged or not as long as you have light.
 
Come to think of it the 550 is a 4-holer.

Still, the lock-out and a RCBS or Hornady taper crimp/seating

die in the last station will go A LONG way in preventing squibs and double charges.
 
I just ordered the Uniquetek light. It's worth a try for $10. My plan of attack is to sort the 200 rounds of 45ACP I loaded in that batch according to brass. Then I'll weigh each group and figure out what a reasonable SD is for the lot. Then, I'll discard the ones that seem too light or too heavy. Hopefully that will minimize my chances of another squib.
 
Bill Larson said:
I use ball powder ( wc231 ) instead of flake (bullseye) for my 45. IT Drops better
Click to expand...
Same powder I use, not because it is cleanest, but I usually can find it, flows great and can be used in my 9mm and 45acp.

ZLBubba said:
I just ordered the Uniquetek light. It's worth a try for $10. My plan of attack is to sort the 200 rounds of 45ACP I loaded in that batch according to brass. Then I'll weigh each group and figure out what a reasonable SD is for the lot. Then, I'll discard the ones that seem too light or too heavy. Hopefully that will minimize my chances of another squib.
Click to expand...
Bubba, in the last 23 years I never had one, just take your time, come up with a system that works for you and stick with it. Reloading is all about consistency and repeating. To be consistent you need to do the same thing over and over in a method that smooth and enjoyable. A simple light goes a long way. I see a lot of guys stuck in a dark corner of their basement, not me, not bright area is the simplest thing you can do to make you more consistent and have more enjoyment.
 
Inline Fabrication has some cool LED lights for Dillon presses.


Tight Groups
Kevin
 
I just got my 650 set up this week. I upgraded from the 550. Over the years of loading with the 550 I've never had a squib and it is always something I've worried about.

Even if I had the Dillon powder checker I still wouldn't trust it. I figured I'd never use it so I didn't order one when I decided on my 650 layout. My press is mounted so that I can look right down into the case at the powder. I feel that this is the best way for me to prevent a squib or an over charge.

B
 
Other than really paying attention to detail, not sure.
Click to expand...

Ditto. Not the press' fault. Powder check dies, like any other mechanical device, can fail and batteries die. With straight walled cases it's a simple matter to visually check each case for powder. It doesn't slow you down or break your rhythm.
 
Were you sitting down by chance? Ive loaded 7 or 8k and never had an issue. Say your using 231? Same powder I use. Odd. From the mess ups I've had it's usually with the primer bar so with every time the press is in use I look at the primer bar as it goes back in to ensure the primer is 1 there and 2 it's oriented correct. Also when I get to station 3 it's always a visual check. I load standing up and it's easily easily seen in all calibers. Go slow till you get your own little things to look for and method. I love the manual index just for the point that if something is wrong you can stop and not have to worry about the thing auto indexing.
 
Good point on the sitting down or standing. I can't sit and load, too hard to see everything.
 
I was standing but not checking every time, plus that area could use a little more light. That's easy to rectify. Just goes to show I need to pay attention more. With a single stage, it's slow but you have numerous checks and balances to ensure you don't make a mistake. The progressive is so much faster, but I'm seeing that I have to be just as vigilant. I appreciate the advice y'all are giving me.
 
ZLBubba said:
I was standing but not checking every time, plus that area could use a little more light. That's easy to rectify. Just goes to show I need to pay attention more. With a single stage, it's slow but you have numerous checks and balances to ensure you don't make a mistake. The progressive is so much faster, but I'm seeing that I have to be just as vigilant. I appreciate the advice y'all are giving me.
Click to expand...

No problem, I enjoy reloading and once you kick that Dillon in gear you will love it.
 
I've used a 550 for years and learned early on to stand and have plenty of light so that I could see into the case as I'm working the press.
 
Two is one, one is none. A powder check die and eyes is the best way. There is nothing to break or batteries in the Hornady Powder Cop. It's a rod that goes up and down.
 
ZLBubba said:
Then, I'll discard the ones that seem too light or too heavy. Hopefully that will minimize my chances of another squib.
Click to expand...
Dont discard them, pull them down and reuse your components you can also verify you hypothesis.
 
Here's an option.

http://www.pressmonitordevice.com/

I'm a bit of a gadget freak so this caught my eye primarily for it's ability to monitor statistics. How many finished rounds, rounds per hour, powder consumption in a session, how many rounds before press maintenance, are just some.

It also monitors each and every stroke of a progressive press, as well as the manual advance on a 550. If you short stroke, it beeps, the light flashes, and tells you to check stations.

For me, it satisfied my need for "gadgets" and also lessened the likelihood I'd fail to seat a primer or short stroke on the down stoke giving me uneven OAL's or whacky powder charges.

FWIW, I've wasted more money on hangovers in my lifetime and enjoyed them less than this device.
 
There is nothing to break or batteries in the Hornady Powder Cop. It's a rod that goes up and down.
Click to expand...

If it moves, it can fail. Doesn't matter who made it.
 
No shit? Thanks for the lesson. Not saying it won't break because Hornady makes it but due to the simplicity. Don't use one if you don't want to. Your hands and eyes.
 
I'm not but don't act like it's not a useful option because there is a off chance it might break. If that was the case you wouldn't use anything. Can it break. Yes. Is it likely a steel rod going straight up and down sitting on powder to tell you if the level is to low or high will break. Highly doubtful. So you can keep your "if it moves it can fail" philosophy and I will use a good piece of safety gear that will help if my eyes happen to miss something.
 
Everyone should know their limitations. Didn't mean to stir up so much emotion. Sorry.
 
I have not got around to loading pistol yet on my 650, but with .223 and crimped primers that I may have not reamed enough,
After loading and as I am tossing them in the vibratory to degrease,
1) I pick up 2 at a time
2) visually and with my fingertips check for primer seating
3) shake them next to my ears to confirm powder charge
Does not take much time and I usualy cull 2-4 rounds per hundred for substandard primer seating..
Have not found ant squibs, yet.
 
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