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Gunsmithing Dial indicator and bedding

jsthntn247

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 25, 2009
1,206
140
Mississippi
There have been several threads on here lately about bedding being bad. So how much movement is acceptable when checking bedding with a dial indicator and at what number should you rebed?
 
.002" or less has been my spec. This is barrel to forend of stock, rifle held vertically when fully tightening/loosening the action screws one at a time. I use a Starrett mag base with the v groove on the barrel and put the indicator on the bottom of the forend.
 

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"Acceptable" is going to depend on who's OPINION you are seeking. My non-bedded aics rifles fail the so-called stress test by probably 100 thousandths plus. Guess what? They still shoot awesome and I'd challenge anyone to say they are not accurate enough to win at any tactical match or make any critical "real life" shot.
 
Is there anything special to checking a savage? I can put the dial near the front swivel and loosen the rear action screw i get o movement. When I loosen the front with the back scre tight, the dial falls 15-20 thousands. The gun shoots lights out, just wondering if you check a savage by loosening the back screw only?
 
I agree with Aeon1 I like as little as possiable. I usually see 0 to under 0.005" when the bedding is done right. You will want to check with both screws on any action. If the action has more than 2 screws then remove all but the front and rear and run the test. As far as the AICS chassis having a few hunderd thousandths of movement and still shoots well, that is very possiable. But where you find an improvement is in consistancy when removing and reinstalling the action from the stock/chassis with a properly bedded action. The torque on the action screws is also much more forgiving when its properly bedded. Also how do you know your rifle would not shoot even better if the chassis was properly skim bedded? Just a thought.
 
Is there anything special to checking a savage? just wondering if you check a savage by loosening the back screw only?

Nope, I expect the same out of a Savage. Not going to say .015-.020" will cause you trouble but .002" is regularly attainable with good bedding work. If I don't get .002" on a job I skim bed it and that usually takes care of it.

But now that you've asked you're screwed cause you have .015-.020" and somebody on the internet told you you should have less. If it "shoots lights out" and you're happy leave it alone and go shoot.
 
But now that you've asked you're screwed cause you have .015-.020" and somebody on the internet told you you should have less. If it "shoots lights out" and you're happy leave it alone and go shoot.

Yep. Advice from the Internet is worth what you paid for it...

If it shoots, it shots. WGAF if there's .001" or .100" of movement when you are bench testing a rifle in a condition it will never see when the trigger is pulled.
 
Tang is floated on all of them, but they all do the same thing with the screw, no movement when the rear is loosened but allot when the front is. I bed my Remington's the same way and they have .001 or less on both screws.
 
A savages bedding usually stops halfway through rear screw, that is probably why you are seeing movement, its pretty difficult to bed anywhere behind it and still float the tang. I would not worry about the movement you are seeing.