- Thread starter Bradu
- Start date
This is some info I saved from the posts here:
Front Straight Screw: Breaking weight
CW- Heavier
CCW- Lighter
Rear Angled Screw: Takeup
CW- Shorten
CCW- Lengthen
Those are the directions given to me by Stacey
JP67,
Here is the short of adjusting the trigger on an AW: But i recommend that you call AI & they will tell you how to do it. DO this at your own risk,doing it improperly can cause accidental discharges. If you are not comfortable adjusting it, take it to a AI dealer or local gunsmith. SAFETY always comes first.
Before performing any adjustments: make sure THE CHAMBER IS CLEAR, NO BULLET IN IT & POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION.
The screw on the trigger adjusts the sear engagement. I turned mine to the right (inside of the trigger guard) 6.2 turns. which eliminated the two stage & had a very short sear engagement.
I turned the screw towards the front of the trigger guard 2 turns left. This adjusts the trigger pull weight.
There is a 3rd screw inside of the trigger assy factory set & staked at the factory, do not attempt to disassemble the trigger & adjust this.
Always count how many turns you adjust your trigger so you can set it back to factory settings if any of the safety tests do not work.
After the adjustments, you MUST do 3 safety tests, again making sure THE CHAMBER IS CLEAR, NO BULLET IN IT & POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION.
1)Open & close the bolt at least 20 times rapidly to make sure the firing pin does not drop (go forward) when the bolt is closed.
2) Bump/Drop test. With the rifle cocked bump the butt hard on the ground at least 20 times to make sure the firing pin does not drop(go forward).
3) With the rifle cocked, open & close the safety rapidly at least 20 times to make sure the firing pin does not drop (go forward).
This left my trigger set @ single stage 1 LB. I used a Lyman digital trigger pull gauge & used an average over 10 pulls. I'm sure some with a proper strain gauge (expensive one) would get me a more accurate reading but this is all i had to measure with.
PS. I also posted in the gunsmith section a long time ago but this is the updated version after talking to AI.
Front Straight Screw: Breaking weight
CW- Heavier
CCW- Lighter
Rear Angled Screw: Takeup
CW- Shorten
CCW- Lengthen
Those are the directions given to me by Stacey
JP67,
Here is the short of adjusting the trigger on an AW: But i recommend that you call AI & they will tell you how to do it. DO this at your own risk,doing it improperly can cause accidental discharges. If you are not comfortable adjusting it, take it to a AI dealer or local gunsmith. SAFETY always comes first.
Before performing any adjustments: make sure THE CHAMBER IS CLEAR, NO BULLET IN IT & POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION.
The screw on the trigger adjusts the sear engagement. I turned mine to the right (inside of the trigger guard) 6.2 turns. which eliminated the two stage & had a very short sear engagement.
I turned the screw towards the front of the trigger guard 2 turns left. This adjusts the trigger pull weight.
There is a 3rd screw inside of the trigger assy factory set & staked at the factory, do not attempt to disassemble the trigger & adjust this.
Always count how many turns you adjust your trigger so you can set it back to factory settings if any of the safety tests do not work.
After the adjustments, you MUST do 3 safety tests, again making sure THE CHAMBER IS CLEAR, NO BULLET IN IT & POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION.
1)Open & close the bolt at least 20 times rapidly to make sure the firing pin does not drop (go forward) when the bolt is closed.
2) Bump/Drop test. With the rifle cocked bump the butt hard on the ground at least 20 times to make sure the firing pin does not drop(go forward).
3) With the rifle cocked, open & close the safety rapidly at least 20 times to make sure the firing pin does not drop (go forward).
This left my trigger set @ single stage 1 LB. I used a Lyman digital trigger pull gauge & used an average over 10 pulls. I'm sure some with a proper strain gauge (expensive one) would get me a more accurate reading but this is all i had to measure with.
PS. I also posted in the gunsmith section a long time ago but this is the updated version after talking to AI.
Just a heads up to new AI owners. I recently bought an AE and attempted to adjust the trigger. After doing so I found I didn't like how I had adjusted it. I then decided to call AINA and Eric at AINA advised me that the trigger is not to be end user adjustable. In fact he stated it was not a two stage trigger and the creep from the factory was intended to be there. He said that adjusting the creep could accelerate spring wear. I was told that they could not give any advice on trigger adjustments but if I sent the rifle in they could reset it for a fee.
Long Ang the shot of it was I ended up reading the post a fellow hide member posted and slowly adjusted the trigger to what seemed appropriate to what the factory setting was described to me. I would caution anyone against self adjusting unless taught by AI or call AI and pick their brains before resetting anything.
Just my two cents
Respectfully, john
Long Ang the shot of it was I ended up reading the post a fellow hide member posted and slowly adjusted the trigger to what seemed appropriate to what the factory setting was described to me. I would caution anyone against self adjusting unless taught by AI or call AI and pick their brains before resetting anything.
Just my two cents
Respectfully, john
They themselves advertise the trigger as being two-stage and adjustable.
Sniper Rifle Systems - AE, AW, AX, AX50 & AICS Sniper Rifles | Accuracy International
My manual does in fact say two stage adjustable however I believe they mean factory adjustable, not user adjustable. I have not found any instructions in the manual or web site for trigger adjustment. As I mentioned above I believe it was Eric at AI North America who said the user should not self adjust the trigger and according to him the trigger was not a true two stage. Of course I may have heard him wrong when I called AINA on how to set my trigger or perhaps he's wrong. Like I said, just my two cents and that's probably what it's worth. One thing I can say for fact is when in doubt call the source.
John
John
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Any time I have seen an issue related to firing with an AI it was because the owner attempted to adjust the trigger...
It should not be adjusted on the user level and that "creep" as people put it is how a two stage trigger works.
I have been to the armorers class and sat in on a few others and there is always a "badly adjusted" trigger that needs work because it was overdone at the user level. Everyone tries to get reduce it to a single stage because that is what they are used too and they always screw it up.
It should not be adjusted on the user level and that "creep" as people put it is how a two stage trigger works.
I have been to the armorers class and sat in on a few others and there is always a "badly adjusted" trigger that needs work because it was overdone at the user level. Everyone tries to get reduce it to a single stage because that is what they are used too and they always screw it up.
Very helpful thread. I too like the 2-stage AI trigger, but it is taking some getting used to. I adjusted the front screw by 1.5 turns CCW.
Related question: when doing the safety check on the 3-position safety on my AI AE Mk iii, I notice 4 clicks not 3. There seems to be an extra click between fire and the middle safety position. Do your Mk iii's do that too?
My AE Mk3 came with a 3-1/2# trigger. I simply backed off the front screw 2 turns which made it 2-1/2#. Pretty simple.
Shave--That's exactly what I did. The first stage is 1.5 lbs and the 2nd stage breaks crisply at 2.5. I just shot the Camp Patriot Steel Challenge, and I am liking this trigger a lot.
My issue with a Mk11 is backlash. After the shot breaks, the trigger still moves towards the rear. Any way that could be helped?
Chris
Chris
