Has any one tried adding weight the fore-end to control muzzle jump?
- Thread starter Highflyer
- Start date
Yes, but the amount needed for even a 223 varmint to keep the jump to a minimum, for viewing impact at high magnification, amounted to 1+ lbs of lead. I always shoot with hearing protection, so i went to a brake and couldnt be happier.
I mostly shoot from a bench. Any tips on bench technique?
Work on technique. Bullets dont lie, they just show your weakness.
Thanks Temp9. Actually I don't get muzzle jump, I get movement to the left. About 3 moa, at 22x on my scope.
That's correctable with position refinement. I'd recommending going to the "Rifle's Only" web site and getting their "first" disk on precision shooting. It shows you, quite well and easy, how to line up and correct lateral jump.
Make sure your shoulders are square to the target and that you aren't applying any left/right pressures on the rifle. Also make sure your torso isn't twisted to try to get into position. Recoil will exploit any weakness and push the rifle towards that area. It's hard to diagnose exactly what's wrong without watching you shoot, but mainly ensure that you are square behind the rifle, not bladed/angled like most people shoot from a bench.
What caliber, by the way? A good shooter shouldn't have issues with any conventional cartridge, but larger cartridges will obviously be harder to control.
Temp9, I'm shooting a 308. I find it difficult to keep my shoulders square to the target. My right shoulder is canted back similar to shooting off hand.
Jim
Jim
Coming from rimfire rifles I was surprised intially at the kick of bigger calibers and my inability to keep sight picture immediately after firing. To alleviate this I built a heavy .223 platform consisting of Remington 700 5R, AICS, Atlas bipod, Premier Heritage 5-25x, basically anything to add some weight, even a chunky bolt knob. My overall result was around 16 pounds. Even with sub par shooting technique I am able to see not only buller impact but also bullet trails in certain lighting conditions. It is essentially a louder rimfire rifle at this point with negligible recoil.
If you're shooting off a bench with a bipod see if you can move the bipod so its closer to the magwell of the rifle. Then straddle the bench seat, push the rifle to the edge of the bench table and get square behind the rifle.
Another option if the bipod is unable to move closer to the magwell is to use a front rest positioned at the edge of the table and place the handguard as far forward until you're able to get squared off behind the rifle while straddling the bench seat.
The movement is not always caused from the muzzle end. You might need to raise your scope a little or drop your cheekpiece. Sometimes you can push your cheeck into the stock enough to cause a up and left recoil of the weapon. This can be caused by having your scope too low. If you raise the scope a little or drop your cheekpiece it will relieve some of that pressure on the backend of the rifle.
2 of these
Shop IRWIN 12-in Bar Clamp at Lowes.com
and a 1 foot piece of 2X4 make a good makeshift bipod stop on a bench at the range
Shop IRWIN 12-in Bar Clamp at Lowes.com
and a 1 foot piece of 2X4 make a good makeshift bipod stop on a bench at the range
I changed scope rings to go up 1/4" and cheekpiece is just about bottomed out.
As some have stated above, the direction of the recoil shows us where the weak points are in our form. If you are getting left recoild then something is either pushing the rear of you weapon right or the muzzle of the rifle is being allowed to shift left. That etiher going to be from your shouldiers not being square, not driving the bipod correctly, and/or too much pressure on the stock. To square up on the rifle might take slight adjustments to where you scope is currently mounted. You may have to slide it back some. If your shoulders are angled back and to the right then the stock will want to move that direction, causing leftward sight movement.
Another thing to try might be to build a square frame to lay on the bench. When I shot from a bench a lot I built a square frame that hooked onto the bench. It created a ledge/lip that I could drive my bipod into. It felt a lot more like driving the bipod on the ground.
I hope this helps.
Dave
Another thing to try might be to build a square frame to lay on the bench. When I shot from a bench a lot I built a square frame that hooked onto the bench. It created a ledge/lip that I could drive my bipod into. It felt a lot more like driving the bipod on the ground.
I hope this helps.
Dave
I added an Atlas bipod and cleat feet for a bench. Triad Tactical, Inc.*::*Bipods etc.*::*Accu-Shot Atlas Cleat Feet The cleats grip, the Atlas bipod has more loading capability than a Harris.
Before than though, with my 300 win mag, I had hops to the left and horizontal stringing to show for it. I adjusted my position and was able to control it better, but still it was a light hunting rifle and it popped up.
Before than though, with my 300 win mag, I had hops to the left and horizontal stringing to show for it. I adjusted my position and was able to control it better, but still it was a light hunting rifle and it popped up.
Hey...in the old days, muzzle jump doesn't appear to have been a problem ;-)
The Rifleman - YouTube
The Rifleman - YouTube
On a good day
My groups are ok, except for the one flyer(choke) Wind 6mph from right. 100yds. 5 shots. After recoil my scope is looking about 3" to the left.
I will try to use your suggestion when I shoot on Thursday.
Thanks for all the input. I'll let you know how it worked out.
Jim
My groups are ok, except for the one flyer(choke) Wind 6mph from right. 100yds. 5 shots. After recoil my scope is looking about 3" to the left.
I will try to use your suggestion when I shoot on Thursday.
Thanks for all the input. I'll let you know how it worked out.
Jim
