What's a good scope cant indicator to get?
Rifle Scopes What's a good scope cant indicator to get?
- Thread starter GunDudeUSA
- Start date
Without any doubt- Flatline Ops
http://flatlineops.com/products/levels/
Their folding units have a micro-adjustment screw that makes fine tuning these a breeze- without it, it can be tedious and imprecise.
http://flatlineops.com/products/levels/
Their folding units have a micro-adjustment screw that makes fine tuning these a breeze- without it, it can be tedious and imprecise.
I've installed the Accuracy 1st scope level on all my scopes. It's very precise and the customer service at Accuracy 1st is top notch! Plus, if you are military or LE you receive a discount. I believe it to be 10% or so. Either way you won't regret having one on your optic. Cheers!
Wow. Thanks!
Is there a difference between scope mounted level indicator vs. a rail mounted level indicator? I just saw a US Optic rail mounted product here: http://www.usoptics.com/uso-gear/accessories/ext-cant-indicator/rail-mounted-swivel-acd.html
Any advantage of one over the other?
Any advantage of one over the other?
If you do not already own a nice set of rings, I really like the SPUHR mount with integral level.
By the time you add the cost of quality rings or 1 piece mount and the cost of a quality level, you really dont do too bad with the SPUHR, and having them integral, with the level protected by the mount housing is nice too.
By the time you add the cost of quality rings or 1 piece mount and the cost of a quality level, you really dont do too bad with the SPUHR, and having them integral, with the level protected by the mount housing is nice too.
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I use the Holland bubble levels that mount to scope.
My preference is to have the level in my line of sight when I open my left eye-I'm right eye dominant. I also run an angle cosine indicator. I currently run a Horus unit that combines the two but I'm converting to the Flatline Ops system. The Spuhr system looks nice and solid but I'm still choking on the price...even though I realize that when all is added up its only a bit more expensive.
I like my USO swivel, much more so than the Vortex I have on my trainer. I feel it lines up much better with my eye and I'm not straining to look up like I am with my Vortex. Also- depending on your scope height- you can swap the USO between rifles with out having to do any re-calibration like you would have to with a scope mounted (not that it takes long to do- just easier with the rail mounted).
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I prefer the Spuhr. I have heard the argument that the resolution is not accurate enough. Well, when compared to a plum line I can tell when my scope is 100% level by referencing my Spuhr level. This has been confirmed with hits on man sized targets at 2200 yards- somewhere around 26 mils of elevation adjustment and NO cant induced error.
I have used the Accuracy First level as well as the US Optics level and have not been impressed with either product. The US Optics swivel levels I have used have never been level relative to the pic rail, which makes them useless in my opinion. And at least 2 of the 3 Accuracy First levels have been sticky- meaning the ball did not move freely in the setup.
The Spuhr is the only level I have been satisfied with.
I have used the Accuracy First level as well as the US Optics level and have not been impressed with either product. The US Optics swivel levels I have used have never been level relative to the pic rail, which makes them useless in my opinion. And at least 2 of the 3 Accuracy First levels have been sticky- meaning the ball did not move freely in the setup.
The Spuhr is the only level I have been satisfied with.
I've got an Accuracy 1st and it has been great for me thus far.
I just bought the Flat Line Ops ACI as well as the 30mm bubble level and the strong arm attachment. I want to do angle shooting on the range and land i have acces to. SWFA sells the Flat Line Ops products and they have good prices.
Heath
Heath
Me too. It is simple, is in my line of sight when behind the scope, and it's as "level" as I care to make it when setting it up on the scope.
Another vote for the Hollands. Easy to see and good quality.
I use an USO rail mounted anti-cant device. I wanted a rail mount so that the bubble level was at my eye level and I didn't need to raise my head or break cheek weld to see if I had canted the rifle.
i just picked up a one piece SPUHR along with the leveling tool (i also checked the leveling tool against my feeler gauges just to make sure). While mounting to my rail last night (its a surgeon so i know it is strait), I began to question myself and the mount. While standing behind the rifle and centering the bubble level the crosshairs looked a little off then while lying prone next to the rifle the bubble was off by about a third of the tube. I am wondering which position is the scope actually level?
Hmmm, i have spuhr mounts on al my rifles, and none of them show any bubble errors the way you describe. What i always do to check the buble, is to mount the spuhr on the rifle without a scope, than put a profesional bubble level ontop of the mounted spuhrmount, and sofar all spuhr bubles were dead on.
Take care,
Nk.
Take care,
Nk.
Scope levels and plum lines help to align your crosshairs vertically and horizontal with the reference more times than not to the actions or scope mounts as it should be. However what the majority of folks don’t check is the cant movement in the reticle when you’re adding elevation or windage. You need your rifle or scope in a dead solid position that can’t move when you adjust your turrets. This is where I like to sight to a plum line at 100 yards. Align your vertical crosshair to the plum line. Adjust your elevation first and make sure your vertical crosshairs doesn’t move left/right off of the plum line as you add elevation. Most scopes have reticle cant but it should be very small…less than 1 degree. I believe Leupold allows for 3 degrees to remain in spec on all of their scope lines. As a rule of thumb for every 1 degree of scope cant at 1000 yards is about 6’ of bullet drift. 3 degrees could be as much as 18” or move. Then do your windage which will be a lot less noticeable as you never dial as much windage as you do elevation.
Hope it helps
Hope it helps
I have an accuracy 1st level and it is superb. It is certainly easier to determine the amount of cant induced in the rifle if you NEED to have it canted to take the shot and therefore must calculate for that.
A normal bubble level is near impossible when trying to work out the exact degree of cant.
I also have a Spuhr mount with the built in bubble. As I try not to shoot with any cant that works admirably, as its easy to check if you are level.
With my scope I cannot have both as the Spuhr rings are very wide. I do miss the Accuracy 1st.
A normal bubble level is near impossible when trying to work out the exact degree of cant.
I also have a Spuhr mount with the built in bubble. As I try not to shoot with any cant that works admirably, as its easy to check if you are level.
With my scope I cannot have both as the Spuhr rings are very wide. I do miss the Accuracy 1st.
This right here. Flatline Ops makes damn good hardware.
I have a couple USO rail mounted levels for my rifles. I like the form factor and simplicity. It is easy to take a peek at before taking a shot.
I have no idea if its dead nuts square. I've never checked it and I honestly don't care. I think this is one of those things thats really easy to "overthink".
I look at it and make sure it reads level when I take longer shots.
While I agree that a level that is in fact "dead nuts" square is ideal, I think simply having a repeatable point of reference is a big plus. If you miss .3mrad off the left side @ 1000, but change the cant of the rifle before taking a followup shot, your .3mrad right correction won't work. At least with a (slightly) incorrect bubble level, you can be sure the rifle's cant is the same from one shot to the next.
I have no idea if its dead nuts square. I've never checked it and I honestly don't care. I think this is one of those things thats really easy to "overthink".
I look at it and make sure it reads level when I take longer shots.
While I agree that a level that is in fact "dead nuts" square is ideal, I think simply having a repeatable point of reference is a big plus. If you miss .3mrad off the left side @ 1000, but change the cant of the rifle before taking a followup shot, your .3mrad right correction won't work. At least with a (slightly) incorrect bubble level, you can be sure the rifle's cant is the same from one shot to the next.
+1 I use the USO and it's been fine by me. But if I had to do it all over again from the beginning, I would go with the Spuhr mount with everything integrated and plus it's a Spuhr
There was an electronic one being used a few years ago. I cant remember the neme......Degrouse?? I believe Rob01 had one....
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Found it, the alamo four star one.
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Found it, the alamo four star one.
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After you have mounted the level, triple check that your elevation adjustments track that vertical line. You can do this without shooting using a plumb line in your backyard. Use a long string with a heavy weight hanging from a tree limb. Level the rifle per the cant indicator and ensure the reticle's vertical line follows the plumb line exactly. Aim low on the plumb line, then start dialing elevation. Ensure the reticle exactly tracks up the plumb line. Correct for any errors.
Another vote here for the Flatline Ops level. It is a very well made piece of kit.
Havent used that one but looks good.
thanks guys, i have used a few other levels over the years but i was turned on to the "in mount" level because i have also had more than one spin. living in NY i often travel with my firearms for any serious hunting or serious long range and to be frank i was tired of opening my pilican case and looking at my level on a 45 compared to my scope. plus i just like buying new toys.
+1 for the Accuarcy 1st level.
Accuracy 1st-best level I have ever used. Easy to see with left eye without changing cheek weld. Ceramic ball much more sensitive to adjustment than bubble. Just buy 1 and you will never go back to the other options. Bought mine from LaRue. Came with reducers to fit both 30 & 34mm scopes.
Another Nice thing about the Accuracy 1st level is that since its a ball. It doesn't get bigger or smaller from altitude change like a bubble will. And it picks up even 1degree of cant. I mounted mine towards the objective lens and with 2 eyes open it appears to be inside my scope, above my reticle.
Great picture how clear and much more visible the ceramic ball is compared to a bubble. The curved chamber is what allows even minor cant to be noted! Very precise. Also very sturdy-mine have remained firmly attached to the scope housing.
PS-I'll have to try mine with both eyes open. Sounds interesting.
PS-I'll have to try mine with both eyes open. Sounds interesting.
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I need a cant indicator that tells me when I can't make a shot.
You have one already, it's built in. If the bubble isn't perfectly level between your left and right ear, don't shoot
Also when you are outside the sunlight just lights it up. It is very easy to see and use. Everyone who tried out my rig bought the Accuracy 1st level. I think they make it with a tritium insert for the military so if you shooting at night you can see your level.
