I notice that I get small amount of powder just inside of the neck. It's sticking to the lube. I use a lube pad and twist the necks on the pad to lube.
- Thread starter Highflyer
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I think pretty much all bottle necked cases require neck lube unless you like a struggle with the expander button.
Tumbling will remove the lube. I use stainless steel media which removes the lube and interior dirt.
Tumbling will remove the lube. I use stainless steel media which removes the lube and interior dirt.
I get lower runout with lubed necks.
I'm not gonna defend it or say it's better or worse or that everyone should do it, but...
My runout has gone MICROSCOPIC.
I'm not gonna defend it or say it's better or worse or that everyone should do it, but...
My runout has gone MICROSCOPIC.
What kind of dies are you using? Fl bushing with expander, w/o expander, standard. I have been wondering what others are doing.
If you want to lube the necks you can use a dry neck lube like "Imperial Dry Neck Lube". Works well and doesn't contaminate powder.
Several schools of thought on this one, and it seems they've all been touched on in the thread.
My AR brass gets run through a regular sizing die with the expander button. Cases get Imperial Sizing wax, necks get Imperial dry neck lube (maybe every 4th or 5th case). Then they go for a 20-30 minute ride in corncob to get rid of the sizing wax.
Bolt gun brass gets run through a Redding Type S FL bushing die, without an expander. The bushings handle making the neck the exact size it should be, so those get imperial wax all the way up the outside. Then they, too, go for a ride in corncob.
If you are changing cases and powder is sticking to the inside of the neck, you're doing it wrong. Regardless WHAT lube you are using, you should be tumbling it off.
FWIW, I have friends that, instead of using dry neck lube, will just swipe a finger across the case mouth every 4th or 5th case (using Imperial wax) and that is enough to keep the expander ball happy.
YMMV.
My AR brass gets run through a regular sizing die with the expander button. Cases get Imperial Sizing wax, necks get Imperial dry neck lube (maybe every 4th or 5th case). Then they go for a 20-30 minute ride in corncob to get rid of the sizing wax.
Bolt gun brass gets run through a Redding Type S FL bushing die, without an expander. The bushings handle making the neck the exact size it should be, so those get imperial wax all the way up the outside. Then they, too, go for a ride in corncob.
If you are changing cases and powder is sticking to the inside of the neck, you're doing it wrong. Regardless WHAT lube you are using, you should be tumbling it off.
FWIW, I have friends that, instead of using dry neck lube, will just swipe a finger across the case mouth every 4th or 5th case (using Imperial wax) and that is enough to keep the expander ball happy.
YMMV.
I put my brass in a coffe container or tupperware of some sort, add hot water and dishwashing detergent, let it soak and shake it around some. Rinse it well and put it in a cheap dehydrator for awhile. Maybe add a quick tumble for pertyness if I please.
I use standard powdered graphite with a case neck brush for the inside. I've also gone the route of a pill bottle 3/4 full of rice grains, dump in the graphite and just 'poke' the cartridge mouth in. 6 of one, half dozen of the other. After sizing and subsequent trimming, I like to bathe the brass in rubbing alcohol. Case lube, carbon, graphite brass trimmings all come off.
Tumble clean to remove all lube prior to loading.
+1 on Imperial dry neck lube and use Redding Type S bushing dies so that the expander barely touches. Lube not really needed at that point.
I too like that product and it seems water based. Cleans up nicely.
I do not like water though after trying it. I hand wipe my cases like I have adt[?].
I wipe them after sizing and after assembly. After bsizing wiping includes clearing the neck.
I hate powder specks stuck in the neck.
I do not like water though after trying it. I hand wipe my cases like I have adt[?].
I wipe them after sizing and after assembly. After bsizing wiping includes clearing the neck.
I hate powder specks stuck in the neck.
I used to use the RCBS case lube and pad un till I switched to Hornady OneShot. One spray and it gets the exterior of the case including the neck, shoulder, and body and inside on the neck. Powder doesn't stick to it and it is not supposed to contaminate powder. Also a lot slicker sliding through my dies.
