• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

M1 Garand Gurus. HELP

Ballistic Artist

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 3, 2012
88
0
35
socialist republic Kalifornia
Hey All,
Ok here it is. On an M1 Garand's rear sight elevation drum. What load is the BDC set for? M2 Ball I would imagine. BUT, Is the M72 MATCH 30-06 ammo with the 173gr bullet loaded so it will Also sync with the BDC? I keep hearing that the 175gr bullets shoot best in the Garand, and I found some 175's. I was just wondering if I duplicate the M72 load, will the numbers on my elevation drum WORK?? Thanks
 
No one I know uses the numbers on elevation knob,I have 16 Garands and I dont . Knob will loosen up and slip on you at the worse possible time
Best thing to do is zero at 100 turn elevation all the way down counting number of clicks
Say it is 10 clicks, write it down, now zero for 200 ,and so on writing down inof.
Store this piece of paper in buttstock. If you ever loose your elevation all you have to do is refer back to paper to get zero back
JMO
 
BA,

Yes, they're set up for the M2 Ball round. And yes, the 175s will work very well in the M1, but they won't sync up with the sight settings. This is a relatively minor difference at shorter ranges, but will become more apparent as you move further out, 400, 500, 600 and so on. Have to remember that the M72 round came out quite late, and didn't see service until well after WWII.

You might want to take a look at "Hatcher's Book of the Garand." It's back in print again, and available from the NRA or CMP at around $25 or so. Money well spent if you want to now more about the M1, it's history and use.
 
I have my zerod out for 100yds, when I shoot offhand sitting it matches but after that it is off. As other other poster said I go by clicks. I know my 600yd zero is not where the 600 is on the elevation knob. The range graduations are set up for M2 Ball. As far as bullets 155's, 168's, 175's shoot great even the 125's, 135's and 140's shoot very well. Now as the other poster posted the screw will come loose. A way around this is to put a drop of lock tight on the screw, then grab the elevation knob with pliers (put leather strap around knob) and tighten the screw tight. It won't work loose. I've done this on M1A'a and M1's and works very well and they don't come loose.
 
16 GARANDS!! lol

No one I know uses the numbers on elevation knob,I have 16 Garands and I dont . Knob will loosen up and slip on you at the worse possible time
Best thing to do is zero at 100 turn elevation all the way down counting number of clicks
Say it is 10 clicks, write it down, now zero for 200 ,and so on writing down inof.
Store this piece of paper in buttstock. If you ever loose your elevation all you have to do is refer back to paper to get zero back
JMO
 
16 Garands! I can understand. Mine has been shootable for no more than 2 weeks and I allready am thinking about getting another one. Great gun. And about as much firepower that can legally be owned here in commiville. Thanks all for the info. LOL The damn elevation screw has come loose once allready. Only fired 40 rds through it. Also, What kind of 100 yard accuracy are you all getting?
 
I would zero my Garand and set the dial accordingly.

Orlando was spot on about the drum slipping as it loosens over time, and noting on the stock that zero at XXX yards is up X clicks from bottom. My dial adjustments worked really well with my 168 grain handload, but I never tested it further than 600 yards.

With my rifle, 100 yard zero was up 3 clicks.

16 GARANDS!!! Do you wanna adopt? I can reload ammo..
 
The battle sight zero on an M1 Garand happens around 300 yards, so sight in at 25 meters (82 feet) and then go up three more clicks. At 25 meters, this means you will be about 3/4 inch above your point of impact. The reason for this is that at a 25m zero, the bullet will cross the line of sight at 25m and at 200 yards, so the 25m zero is also dead on at 200 yards. The sights on the M1 and the M1A/M14 are adjusted in 1 MOA clicks. To go from 200 yards to 300 yards, adjust up 3 clicks.

The sight adjustment pattern looks like this:

100 to 200 yards, increase 3 clicks
200 to 300 yards, increase 3 clicks
300 to 400 yards, increase 3 clicks
400 to 500 yards, increase 4 clicks

Just remember 3,3,3,4 and you will be in the money for shooting 20 inch targets out to 500 with the irons. The front sight on most M1 Garands and M1A/M14 rifles is set at 7 MOA, although this will vary a little bit depending on your specific distance from your own eye to the front sight. Basically you need to go to the range and measure the size of your own front sight against a piece of paper with different sizes of targets. Make a sheet of paper with different size squares on it from about four inches to ten inches. Then compare your front sight to those squares downrange.

The roughly 7 MOA front sight was chosen so that you could know whether a 20 inch target is inside or outside your battle sight zero. If a 20 inch target is larger than the front sight, then it is closer than 300 yards. If the target is smaller than the front sight, the target is farther than 300 yards.

National Match sights are supposed to come in around 5 MOA for the 0.062 width, but you must calibrate the sight to actually get it right. This does not affect trajectory of course, just the precision of your ability to range targets using the front sight, and if you ask me, the NM sights are far better, although a lot of people with aging eyes don't like them as much as the wider front blade.

To use the rear sight drum, I ignore the numbers and just memorize the number of clicks each range is from where the sight bottoms out. So, I suggest sighting in at 100 and then counting how many clicks you need to go down to bottom the sight back out. If you are wanting to use the elevation drum with the numbers on it, here is how you do it.

1) Sight in at 25 meters (82 feet);
2) Then slowly count the number of clicks it takes you to bottom out the sight;
3) Remember the number of clicks, or write it down on a piece of paper;
4) Elevate the rear sight the same number of clicks;
5) Now loosen the screw on the left side of the elevation drum until the elevation drum spins freely;
6) Set the sight at 200;
7) Tighten the screw;
8) Verify that it is the same number of clicks to bottom the sight as it was when you first counted.

This should take care of you just fine as long as you are using the M2 Ball ammo that J Garand designed the calibration of the rear drum for.

I hope this helps,

M1Amen

PS, just as a side note, don't trust the elevation pinion. The other posters are correct that they can come loose. You want to use the 3,3,3,4 that I mentioned earlier.