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Rifle Scopes Zero question???

HawkDriver

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 21, 2012
275
1
Southeast Ohio
I just changed the scope on my .308 700 to a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50. I went to the range today to zero it and I got it dialed in pretty quickly, the problem is that it took 2 full turns of both elevation and windage to get to zero and now I only have almost one turret revolution of adjustment left. I need help with this.

Some details- rem 700 .308, 20moa 2 piece base, vortex precision matched medium rings. 1.5" height over bore. 100yd zero

Any fixes come to mind? I'd like to have more adjustment in the scope.
 
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I don't know if buying a better canted base is the correct idea yet...something doesn't seem right. if you have 65 minutes of total travel, that'd be ~32 minutes up and 32 down, assuming the reticule was centered from the factory...add a 20 base and itll get you ~52 (or there abouts) of up. two FULL turns on the elevation would use up 24 minutes, which should leave you with quite a bit more more than what you're saying....plus to use up 24 MOA for a 100 yard zero seems a hair ridiculous........

maybe i'm completely wrong, in which case, completely ignore this.....but something doesn't seem right with the setup or the scope itself......

Hopefully a pro will come in and get you some other advice, but if it was me, I'd look into the scope/mounting and torque specs first before adding more angle to the base....

Adam
 
It's a 2 piece base. Installed correctly although, I don't think it is actually a 20 MOA base. Adjustments are .1MRAD on the scope. Everything is torqued to 65 in/lbs.
 
I'd try to go for a name brand one piece base and ensure that is not the problem. You need a solid foundation no matter what level of scope is on the top.
 
I agree with Dkindels. I would purchase a 1 piece 20 MOA base and go from there. It sounds like something is definitely wrong.
 
If you dont have a 20 moa base that's the way to go ESPECIALLY 1 piece, but regardless of minutes or mils (from my last post), you are still using way to much for your up for zeroing at 100...and you said your torquing everything at 65? That's plenty excessive for scope rings and can cause problems...I think 15 for rings is the standard at least on a vortex scope...again, not being an expert at all(so take it with a grain of salt), if it were me, I'd snag a 20 moa 1 piece, and then re-torque everything to the proper specs...you should really not be using 7.1 mils for a hundred yard zero...

Like I said though, grain of salt...

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong so the OP can get better advice...

Adam
 
I was talking about rings to the base. I re-torqued to 55, ring caps (vortex precision matched) to 18. Can someone give me a measurement from the reciever of the 700 SA to the top of the base at both the front and rear for 20 MOA so I can verify my base?

Thanks
 
If the back is higher you're fine on the base

Edit: all bases differ on heights
 
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1/4" higher is a lot higher when your talking about the change in height from the front to the back of a one piece base.
 
1/4" higher is a lot higher when your talking about the change in height from the front to the back of a one piece base.

Exactly...if your back is 1/4" higher, you're well within the correctly canted base....you have another issue...I'd take your scopes and rings apart and remount them and retorque them just to be sure and then if its still shooting THAT high at 100 yards, I'd call vortex
 
I am a step ahead of you. I pulled everything apart and leveled everything and retorqued it all. I'm going back out to the range tomorrow to see where it is.