Help with some pistol dies, 9mm, 357, and 45acp

[raider1v1]

Do I want a roll crimp or taper crimp for these calibers?

• The 9mm will be shot in semi's
• The 357 will be shot in semi's, revolvers, and lever actions
• The 45acp will be shot in semi's

From my understanding, the roll crimp shouldn't be used in autos because it wont seal correctly. So I am looking for a taper correct?
I have the lee 4-die set for 38/357 and have used it in revolvers, but I want to make sure i dont mess up the coonan.

 

[ksthomas]

Roll crimps for rimmed revolver cases, taper crimps for pistol cases that headspace on the case mouth, is the general rule. There's a few other options as well, such as Redding's Profile crimp, or Lee's Factory Crimp Die. Not much of a Lee fan in general, but their Factory Crimp Dies are worth their weight in gold. They came up with a real winner here, and I recommend them. I'd also suggest using a case gage like the L.E. Wilson when you're crimping, as the crimps can bulge case mouths and prevent chambering if they're overdone. The gage will just prevent that from happening and sidestep some frustration. Crimping for the Coonan should go with the same style usually used for that cartridge (the .357 Mag), which would be a roll crimp, or profile crimp. Ditto for those rounds used in lever guns.

 

[raider1v1]

Roll crimps for rimmed revolver cases, taper crimps for pistol cases that headspace on the case mouth, is the general rule. There's a few other options as well, such as Redding's Profile crimp, or Lee's Factory Crimp Die. Not much of a Lee fan in general, but their Factory Crimp Dies are worth their weight in gold. They came up with a real winner here, and I recommend them. I'd also suggest using a case gage like the L.E. Wilson when you're crimping, as the crimps can bulge case mouths and prevent chambering if they're overdone. The gage will just prevent that from happening and sidestep some frustration. Crimping for the Coonan should go with the same style usually used for that cartridge (the .357 Mag), which would be a roll crimp, or profile crimp. Ditto for those rounds used in lever guns.

ok i was planning on getting the 4-die sets for the 9mm and 45acp.

Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set 45 ACP

Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set 9mm Luger

I was planning on using the factory crimp die for all of them, would that be ok even for the 357? the loads are going to be medium to light.

 

[ksthomas]

Probably not really necessary for the really light loads, but definitely for the heavier charges. Great crimp for general usage, and they're completely adjustable for the degree of crimp you're applying. When doing really heavy stuff like the 454 Casull, these dies are virtually the ONLY ones that will keep the bullets in place under recoil. That really impressed me, especially after seeing literally every other type of crimp die on the market fail to manage the same task. I use them a lot in 380 ACP, 9mm, 40 S&W and 45 ACPs as well, with no complaints and outstanding reliability. They're good to go!

 

[raider1v1]

Probably not really necessary for the really light loads, but definitely for the heavier charges. Great crimp for general usage, and they're completely adjustable for the degree of crimp you're applying. When doing really heavy stuff like the 454 Casull, these dies are virtually the ONLY ones that will keep the bullets in place under recoil. That really impressed me, especially after seeing literally every other type of crimp die on the market fail to manage the same task. I use them a lot in 380 ACP, 9mm, 40 S&W and 45 ACPs as well, with no complaints and outstanding reliability. They're good to go!

could i use that factory crimp die in place of the roll crimp on the 357? I have done 38's with them w/ no problem.

 

[ksthomas]

Absolutely! Should be especially helpful with very heavy loads using powders like H110, 296 or N110.

 

[lightman]

Gotta agree with Kevin! Roll crimp rimmed cases, taper crimp rimless cases. Lightman

 

[Fuzzball]

Crimping, perhaps especially for handguns, is simple but vastly misunderstood.

Roll crimping is primarily for hot revolver loads with heavy bullets, it's done to prevent bullets from pulling out enough to jam the cylinder. Revolver cartridges are generally rimmed so crimping - done correctly - rarely affects chambering never affects headspacing.

Most autoloaders fire rimless cartridges and all straight wall rimless cartridges headspace on the case mouth. Few auto rounds need any more 'crimping' than is necessary to fully remove the mouth flaring. A roll crimp can easily fold too much case in and allow the cartridge to go so deep the firing pin won't strike the primer while a taper crimper - used correctly - will remove the flare without reducing the mouth enough to let the case slip passed the end of the chamber.

 

[r50140]

I have been using the Lee factory crimp die for years on all of my pistol rounds, 357, 38sp, 9mm, 45acp, 45LC, etc. I also use the Lee factory crimp when I reload for my gas guns, 308 and 5.56. I don't really care for their dies, but really like the factory crimp die.

 

[former naval person]

The other useful but overlooked feature of the Lee FC die is the carbide ring at the mouth. If you seat a bullet slightly crooked...easy to do with stubby pistol bullets...the case will bulge and maybe interfere with chambering. Lee's carbide ring straightens that out.

 

[Iamironman]

The other useful but overlooked feature of the Lee FC die is the carbide ring at the mouth.

I have this die for 357/38 and I absolutely hate it. I think I threw it away. I would not buy the LFC die with the carbide ring, the loaded round was always getting hung up inside the die. I do like their other FCD's though. I wouldn't waste money on a 4 die set if you're going to buy a FCD, then you'd have 2 dies that do the same thing basically.

What ksthomas said in his first sentence is 100% accurate.